Thought I would post some info on changing the crank sensor on this model as mine failed and car was cutting out etc..VAG showing it was this sensor however could not find any info on the internet at all. Firstly this is quite a big job but is do able as long as you got patience and a good tool set.
Firstly it is located on the right hand side of the engine (looking from front ) between where the gearbox mates with the rear of the engine and is not visible!.. I have taken some pics and labelled the parts that need removing for this procedure. The part I got from a local car part shop for about 25 quid.
Explaining as best I can.. firstly you will need various tools but the most painful ones required are a long 4mm hex (longer the better) and worth getting a magnetic type if possible as will explain later. An E16 socket is also required to remove the 4 bolts holding the oil filter/oil cooler. Firstly undo the one screw holding the water expansion tank and lift out of position by the 2 rear lugs and move aside. I left pipes connected and removed the electrical connector. Next remove the 10 mm securing bolt for the top bracket of dipstick. Jack car up and remove oil and whilst there I changed the oil filter. Undo turbo pipe going into the throttle valve body (pull up on spring clip and unplug big rubber pipe). Next start undoing the 3 bolts that hold the throttle body to the EGR valve (small torx bolts). Unplug electrical connector from throttle body. Undo the torx bolts holding the EGR valve and remove , disconnecting electrical connector. If access is required there is 2 x 10mm bolts holding the bracket of the water hoses to the oil filter /cooler housing. Next there is a chrome pipe which runs from the EGR valve around the rear of the engine. These are held in place by 2 x 6mm hex and I used a 6mm small screwdriver type bit with a 1/4 whitworth spanner to undo due to angle but Allen key should just fit. The gasket will drop out so make sure to catch!. Now this is out the way, look around the oil filter/cooler rear and you will see an electrical connector going into the oil pressure switch undo the connector and remove the switch (believe it was 17mm) not sure though. Once removed you will see a small metal chrome oil union pipe (,17mm). Undo the union pipe and you will notice that the union pipe screws into an adaptor that in turn screws into the oil filter/cooler. You will also need to remove this adaptor for access to the 4 x e16 bolts that hold the filter/cooler housing to the engine block. Next undo the 2 x water hoses held in by spring clips and prepare for water to drain.. Proceed to undo the 4 x E16 bolts and remove the cooler/filter housing. Once removed and the gasket you should now see the electrical connector head (with 2 wires) going to crank sensor. This was a pig to get off I wont lie and the wires are very thin so be careful!!!!! The clip on the left side needs to be pushed in whilst prying at the plug gently to wriggle off. Once off you can now see in the hole about 2 x inches in the top of the sensor and the 4mm hex deep inside. I cant stress enough how much I sweated getting that bolt out, as there is an opening into the clutch assembly etc where u do not want to drop it! I magnetized a long 4mm hex key and just managed to get on the sensor bolt head. You will not be able to undo with small heads or a normal sized Allen key. I bought a long set and found due to depth and angle, a ball hex key was best. NOTE- MY Audi fitted sensor bolt (the 4mm bolt ) did not come out of the sensor therefore preventing dropping however after market the bolt could fall out ..I really hope this helps someone as I could not find any info out there..sorry for any grammar or spelling errors and good luck!
Firstly it is located on the right hand side of the engine (looking from front ) between where the gearbox mates with the rear of the engine and is not visible!.. I have taken some pics and labelled the parts that need removing for this procedure. The part I got from a local car part shop for about 25 quid.
Explaining as best I can.. firstly you will need various tools but the most painful ones required are a long 4mm hex (longer the better) and worth getting a magnetic type if possible as will explain later. An E16 socket is also required to remove the 4 bolts holding the oil filter/oil cooler. Firstly undo the one screw holding the water expansion tank and lift out of position by the 2 rear lugs and move aside. I left pipes connected and removed the electrical connector. Next remove the 10 mm securing bolt for the top bracket of dipstick. Jack car up and remove oil and whilst there I changed the oil filter. Undo turbo pipe going into the throttle valve body (pull up on spring clip and unplug big rubber pipe). Next start undoing the 3 bolts that hold the throttle body to the EGR valve (small torx bolts). Unplug electrical connector from throttle body. Undo the torx bolts holding the EGR valve and remove , disconnecting electrical connector. If access is required there is 2 x 10mm bolts holding the bracket of the water hoses to the oil filter /cooler housing. Next there is a chrome pipe which runs from the EGR valve around the rear of the engine. These are held in place by 2 x 6mm hex and I used a 6mm small screwdriver type bit with a 1/4 whitworth spanner to undo due to angle but Allen key should just fit. The gasket will drop out so make sure to catch!. Now this is out the way, look around the oil filter/cooler rear and you will see an electrical connector going into the oil pressure switch undo the connector and remove the switch (believe it was 17mm) not sure though. Once removed you will see a small metal chrome oil union pipe (,17mm). Undo the union pipe and you will notice that the union pipe screws into an adaptor that in turn screws into the oil filter/cooler. You will also need to remove this adaptor for access to the 4 x e16 bolts that hold the filter/cooler housing to the engine block. Next undo the 2 x water hoses held in by spring clips and prepare for water to drain.. Proceed to undo the 4 x E16 bolts and remove the cooler/filter housing. Once removed and the gasket you should now see the electrical connector head (with 2 wires) going to crank sensor. This was a pig to get off I wont lie and the wires are very thin so be careful!!!!! The clip on the left side needs to be pushed in whilst prying at the plug gently to wriggle off. Once off you can now see in the hole about 2 x inches in the top of the sensor and the 4mm hex deep inside. I cant stress enough how much I sweated getting that bolt out, as there is an opening into the clutch assembly etc where u do not want to drop it! I magnetized a long 4mm hex key and just managed to get on the sensor bolt head. You will not be able to undo with small heads or a normal sized Allen key. I bought a long set and found due to depth and angle, a ball hex key was best. NOTE- MY Audi fitted sensor bolt (the 4mm bolt ) did not come out of the sensor therefore preventing dropping however after market the bolt could fall out ..I really hope this helps someone as I could not find any info out there..sorry for any grammar or spelling errors and good luck!
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