Aftermarket Driveshafts

whatever you decide just don't go to ECP, they are total muppets on this subject.
 
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I've been looking at a company called Autodoc from Germany. Do a Google search and download the app. The massive range is impressive and if you spend a bit (£100 I think ) the carriage is free.
 
BakPak said:
I've been looking at a company called Autodoc from Germany. Do a Google search and download the app. The massive range is impressive and if you spend a bit (£100 I think ) the carriage is free.
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Yeah that’s what I looked on but no idea which is quality and which isn’t. Haven’t heard of any brand on there
 
Do you need full shafts or can you get away with replacing the cv/tripod ends only?
 
Contact them and ask about manufacturing warranty?? I notice a set of control arms on ebay for £120 with a 4 year warranty! Because I only do 1000 miles a year I will definitely be buying a set.
 
I changed both my inner and outer joints a bit ago
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/drive-shaft-cv-joint-issue.214045/#post-3370621
The outer cvs were from euro but you need to make sure you get the correct ones size wise, two diameters basically i think,
The inner cvs get oem or skf, i tried some from cartech one but still vibrated at high speed.
Its an easy enough job if you have the time and feel confident spannering.
 
Nathan Russell said:
Cv boot has split but to be honest I have a rather nasty knocking from the shaft at low speeds so probably could do with replacing the whole thing.
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If the boot has split and you have lost a lot of the grease from the bearing then it will be noisy, moreso when turning .
But if they have done high milage then wear will also be part of the problem.
 
Sygh2k said:
I changed both my inner and outer joints a bit ago
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/drive-shaft-cv-joint-issue.214045/#post-3370621
The outer cvs were from euro but you need to make sure you get the correct ones size wise, two diameters basically i think,
The inner cvs get oem or skf, i tried some from cartech one but still vibrated at high speed.
Its an easy enough job if you have the time and feel confident spannering.
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Cheers buddy. Trying to find skf full drive shafts. Can find the passenger side but not the drivers.
 
Sygh2k said:
these might help, may be worth a phonecall too

https://www.vsm.skf.com/uk/en/search-parts?market=eu&searcher=vsm-kits-pagination&vehicleid=eu0002-18414&tab=tab_1_automotive&l=en&category=Driveline+products%7CDriveline+products

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sin.../407/subcategory/407075/part_id/254931/lang/e
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Thanks mate. Link was very helpful. Still could only find one side for the auto. Unless I’m missing something. I’ll search on the vin on the second link and see what I can find.

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61-EC3-C1-D-BA25-4-CC3-8-C99-AFC6-F40-EEFC7.png

09-A4-D436-3773-45-FB-9-AEC-812-CE1-C8-D492.png
 
Euro car parts.
You could try TPS (Trade Part Specialists) but my local branch in Shrewsbury will only deal with trade sales now.
 
I bought some J&R shafts and had vibration problems so make sure you stay clear of them. I've rebuild one of my originals with Ridex (pretty cheap) CVs and swapped it back in and vibration has almost gone. Once I've done the other side I expect it to go completely.
 
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Nathan Russell said:
Manual transmission only buddy.


I have contacted driveshaftUk who will refurbish mine, both left and right with new inner and new outer Cv's. 4 Day turn around and includes a 1 yr warranty. £259 + Vat.
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Do you know what CVs they use? I did mine for £85 for four CVs, plus an hour of my time.
 
LawrenceH said:
Do you know what CVs they use? I did mine for £85 for four CVs, plus an hour of my time.
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I asked for SKF but they don't use them, Said they are an ISO9001 quality CV so im sure they should be fine. I know it can be done cheaper but I dont have the tools around me to do it. Nor the time if i'm honest.
 
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Question for those who have had driveshaft issues.

Would a failing drive shaft cause steering wheel shudder and vibrations in the seat? I’m assuming the answer will be yes. Or I’m hoping the answer will be yes.

Gets worse the faster I go. 60-70 doesn’t feel safe.
 
I’ve had two symptoms. Clicking on full lock (brand new joint!) and vibration. Vibration was mainly when on the gas 50+mph.

Clicking was outer joint, vibration is inner.
 
Nathan Russell said:
Question for those who have had driveshaft issues.

Would a failing drive shaft cause steering wheel shudder and vibrations in the seat? I’m assuming the answer will be yes. Or I’m hoping the answer will be yes.

Gets worse the faster I go. 60-70 doesn’t feel safe.
Click to expand...


It can do but also wheel bearings, wheel balancing, alignment and top control arms primarily can too. If you can get hold of the shaft try wiggling it front to back as the car stands, there should be some sideways play as the length changes when you turn but that should really be the only major movement.
 
Cheers Guys. No clicking but I do get a clonk when I turn full lock. Only one really. Had a full alignment on Monday so shouldn’t be that. Tyres were also checked so all good there. I don’t seem to have any noise from the wheel bearings hopefully they are ok. I’ll take a look at the suspension make sure it all seems tight and I’ll give the driveshaft a good wiggle.
 
Tried as hard as I could to get the old drive shafts out today. Hub bolt released no issue. Inner cv bolts also came out fine thanks to the rattler. Only issue is I couldn’t move the inner cv for the life of me. All videos on YouTube the thing easily wobbles free but mine wouldn’t budge. For anyone that has done this Am I missing something?
 
Try getting penetrating fluid where the split should be. Also worth tapping with a hammer whilst rotating the shaft see if that helps any, just make sure youre in neutral and don't go mad hitting it. Once youve opened a gap just get a wedge in there to seperate, should come fairly easy to be honest.
 
Sygh2k said:
Try getting penetrating fluid where the split should be. Also worth tapping with a hammer whilst rotating the shaft see if that helps any, just make sure youre in neutral and don't go mad hitting it. Once youve opened a gap just get a wedge in there to seperate, should come fairly easy to be honest.
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Thanks mate I’ll give it another try in the morning. It spins completely free in P. I take it thats not normal?
 
In P it shouldn’t turn if the other wheel is in the ground. If they’re both in the air the other wheel should turn the opposite way.
 
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Quick update on this. Do not sue a company called driveshaft UK if you need your shafts rebuilt. Both have failed after just three months and they have completely refused a refund even considering there is a 1 year guarantee.

Steer clear people.
 
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Oh really? Glad you posted! I was speaking to them earlier this week about rebuilding my propshaft. Will steer clear!
 
Premium makes SKF, INA and GKN. Somebody above said don't use ECP - why's that? They stock GKN shafts which is an old UK engineering firm who has been making bearings for the automotive and aviation World for years - probably supply a lot of OE stuff.
 
Sam1989 said:
Oh really? Glad you posted! I was speaking to them earlier this week about rebuilding my propshaft. Will steer clear!
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You need to tell them WHY you are steering clear

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
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