What have you done to your A4 b6 today?

So, I went out and refitted the ecu and battery..
Put it in acc and cleared codes in engine, abs, instrument, and a few others. They all had some ecu related codes.

Started it and it ran normally. Took some readings.
After 5-6 minutes it stalled..
No codes, no lost communication. Just stalling.
Can start it again, sounding normal, but stalls again after 10-15 sec.

Tried to press the accelerator. The turbo and engine spooled normally, until just before it stalled, then turbo wouldn’t spool and it died
 
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I think you need to speak to the person who mapped the ECU.

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Yes.. that my last resort..
Just one thought, could it be related to temperature.. as soon as the engine gets warmer it reached a point and stops.

Could be why it could idle for 10 minutes to start with, and after it stalled the first time, cools down 0.1 degree and then idles for 10 sec and stalls
 
Try disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor and see if that changes anything. Also inspect the wiring from that sensor.

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Ok, I’ll try later
just went out and started it. Idled fine and rev’ed fine.. this time I shut the engine off.. as it gives some proof that perhaps the temperature could be the reason it stalls
 
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Engine won’t start with the G62 unplugged..
It just starts and stops..

Fitted it again, cleared the coded, then it ran fine again until it reached ~41 *C, then stopped..

I’m trying to reach out to the tuner, but with Easter coming up, it will be hard.
So I’ll be going through Easter with no car
 
Did you check the wiring for the coolant temperature sensor?

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QuattroCalum said:
Did you check the wiring for the coolant temperature sensor?

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Click to expand...

No but can’t see why it should break on its own through Thrusters night.

Must be an error in the map..
If only I could get it to drive in limp
 
Do you have an old coolant temperature sensor? You could plug that in and secure it to the wiring loom, so it won't see the engine temperature.

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The tuner guy says that the reason is the injectors being worn and can’t deliever enough diesel for the map..
But I can’t believe that the injectors are the culprit.
Not according to the data from vcds..

He requested a film, filming from cold start until it stalls..
It stalls exactly around 41 degrees every time

 
Damn.. disconnected the wrong sensor.. the fuel sensor..
Will try to disconnect the right sensor tomorrow. Tuner says it should be able to drive then..
What causes it, he’s now unsure off..
But we’ll find out when it gets on the dyno
 
Well disconnecting the right one didn’t do anything.
Code came on, G62 no connection.
Vcds Engine Block 1 still showed coolant temperature, and it went out at ~41degrees.

Ecu shipped today to tuner, he will put on a standard map, car ran before, but with crazy idle.
I’ll then drive to him(about 130miles) and get a custom map while on dyno...

Best solution, should have started with it...
 
While the car isn’t moving, I had time yesterday at work to reassemble my wheels...
Just 3 more to go
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Those rims are beautiful.

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Well I just can’t get rid of problems l.
Received the ecu with a map that the engine can run, but when it reached 90 degrees, I checked block 13
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Either the injector seat/hole is oval or it’s a bad injector l

Will try and swap injector 3 and 4
 
Wahlstrom said:
Well I just can’t get rid of problems l.
Received the ecu with a map that the engine can run, but when it reached 90 degrees, I checked block 13
3a58dbd631b272791287bf73ea2f22e3.jpg


Either the injector seat/hole is oval or it’s a bad injector l

Will try and swap injector 3 and 4
Click to expand...
Could be the o rings on the injectors, notoriously bad for leaking. Even after changing the injector seat and o rings, they still leak. You can buy billet alloy ones at £50 for a set.

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Maybe the injector seat has cracked, try spraying in there with Plus Gas or Brake cleaner, you'll hear the engine note change if it has.

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With the top off oil will spray all over the place??
And brake cleaner for example will get in the oil
 
Wahlstrom said:
With the top off oil will spray all over the place??
And brake cleaner for example will get in the oil
Click to expand...
I don't think you understand what I mean. Where the fuel injector sits in the inlet manifold, that is the injector seat.
To check if it's cracked spray plus gas into the injector seat when the engine is idling, if it is cracked you will hear the engine note change and possibly see it draw the fluid in. The engine will burn it off, no need to worry about your oil or anything.

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QuattroCalum said:
I don't think you understand what I mean. Where the fuel injector sits in the inlet manifold, that is the injector seat.
To check if it's cracked spray plus gas into the injector seat when the engine is idling, if it is cracked you will hear the engine note change and possibly see it draw the fluid in. The engine will burn it off, no need to worry about your oil or anything.

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Click to expand...

It’s a PD.. the injectors are located top of the head
 
Went for a longer test drive today.. car pulls fine, better than before.. so something positive has happened.
Tuner requested a boost log, to make sure it didn’t go over 2750mbar for longer periods.
It stays right around 2700 at full throttle/boost

But the thing with cylinder 4 is a mystery for me.

When the injectors were fitted I drove home but with very rough idle.
Back then I checked block 13, and they had close to perfect values.

Now with the remap, cylinder 4, shows a + 1.4-2.0 mg in idle..
So something is bad in cylinder 4..

Have the values changed to a more realistic number now that the ecu is remapped?

And what is wrong, bad injector? Or misfitted O rings?
 
Another block found.. don’t know how and when, but in idle, cylinder 4 goes above -100 periodically
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It's it driving okay? If so I wouldn't get hung up over those numbers.

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Rusty paint on the bonnet and started fitting the FMIC, realised the SAI has to be removed though so I can route the FMIC pipework to the turbo

FDDE07F1 E089 456B AD9E A2BB8C8353BB
 
Yes, headlights out and reach down for the three 10 mm bolts on each wing.
Then two torx bolts above the foglights.

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