Dippy's S5

Dippy,

You gave me two part numbers relating to your dynamic steering. Can I just ask where you found them? Was it from physically looking at the components? I’m trying to find out where the dynamic steering module is located.
 
Dippy,

Have tried to pm you, but I’m guessing you haven’t seen it.

I’ve done a lot more reading about supercharger drive ratios and the impact on so much else and am a little nervous about my 195mm pulley choice. It hasn’t been sent yet but has been made. I have therefore added a 183mm pulley and belt into the mix.

If you fancy trying a different pulley one day, let me know because I’ll have a spare sitting around in the UK already and don’t know anyone else with the v-damper config.

Adam
 
Thanks Adam - I didn't see a pm. Thanks for the offer, but ironically I have been following your forum threads to find out what happens as you push the limits on your car. Having observed the development process on @arad85 's car I'm not keep to take over as "guinea pig". Until someone else reports success with a bigger pulley on a CREC engine, I'll be sticking with my 189mm one!
 
Ok, let's just treat them as a pool of available ratios for anyone to try.

My research is suggesting that limiting the boost by engaging the bypass valve does significantly reduce the load on the supercharger (since it is doing less work pumping into a partially open chamber). This obviously limits the heat build up and the need for greater fuelling and increased spark plug gap.

Effectively the larger pulley running the boost enabled by the smaller pulley is all but the same with the exception of the higher supercharger speed.

I'm really in two minds but at least with the fluid damper installed, it's an easy swap.

I'm also fortunate enough to have really good access to proper mapping on a proper dyno, so would think I can get a very very well tailored map done that pays attention to clutch slippage.

I will of course keep you informed.

Tuning aside and back to retrofitting, would you mind doing another VCDS scan based on the instructions I sent Arad. It gives me all the adaptation channel information. Your car is especially ideal as you also seem to have all the driving assist modules that I am in the process of installing in addition to dynamic steering. hill hold, main beam, side assist, lane assist (adaptive cruise?), TV, homelink, adaptive headlights - can't remember the rest.
 
On a relatively unadventurous WOT up a moderate hill, my EGT before cat 1 hit 900C which is the maximum on my FIS-Control MMI gauge. It is a bit scary how hot they seem to get (or rather what the ECU is calculating), and although the temperature comes back down rapidly once I ease off the throttle, I'd like to be able to keep an eye on the peak temperature. So I made the decision to switch the gauge to a 10-step one so that the new max is 1000C. It doesn't look as good but I'll try it for a while.

Old gauge
Gauges v14


New gauge
Gauges v15
 
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PS. Are you not able to start the minimum value at 400? Surely, you don't really care if it is that low...
 
Feeling left behind ... Looks like my business needs new tools ...


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PS. Are you not able to start the minimum value at 400? Surely, you don't really care if it is that low...
Yes, but I decided to try 0-1000 first.

For the gauge scales you can have whatever range you want. The issue is the background graphic. I use a shareware program called Photoline to create what you see above. Then the FCM firmware adds the needle and moves it according to the config file uploaded. So as long as the two match all is good. The issue is that as of now the only options are 6-step and 10-step gauges. So for EGT my options were indeed either to change the 6-step gauge of 300-900 to 400-1000, or change to the 10-step gauge with 0-1000. I tried the latter last night and like it so I don't think I'll bother trying the 400-1000. The peak I saw last night was 920C.

The supercharger gauge was a similar choice. My max should be around 21,000-22,000rpm at redline. I could have a 10-step gauge with 2,200 steps but that would look bad. I don't want a gauge where the needle stays on max or min (which is why I wasn't keen on 400-1000). So it was either a 10-step with steps of 2,500 (still bad) or a 6-step with steps of 4,000 which I prefer.
 
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A recent VCDS scan shows that I am getting repeated DTC on 5F Inf Elec for intermittent LVDS faults. I had assumed that this was just a side-effect of the existence of my FCM (a bit like my dashcam causes quiescent current DTCs), but it seems that other owners don't get them so I'm going to have to check my cables and connections. Hopefully one of the connectors is not seated properly. If not I'm going to have to test the warranty!
 
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As soon as mine is fitted, I'll give you some feedback on if mine is doing the same.

Re the ranges, I was about to suggest the exact same thing as Arad.
 
When we moved into our current house just over 10 years ago it had a couple of electric roller garage doors made by Gliderol. Then when I bought my S5 and paid for the Homelink option I had hoped that it would be compatible, but alas no. The doors were a bit clunky and loud, but worked, so I was loathe to replace them. My wife never like the colour, but claims that this had nothing to do with her forgetting to open her door before reversing out of the garage one day. A bit of metal bashing later the door was working again, but now even louder and more clunky. So I decided it was time to replace them.

I was then surprised at how few garage door manufacturers support Homelink. There are plenty of the type of operator which attaches to a manual door (e.g. the type which hangs from the ceiling and pulls an up-and-over door) which are Homelink compatible, but not for brand new bespoke solutions like electric roller doors. Most of the time when I contacted a company to ask if it was compatible the answer was "no", or even "what's Homelink?". But in the end I did find one - a company called Novoferm - and we have just had the two dirty cream-coloured clunky steel 25 year-old Gliderol roller doors replaced with insulated aluminium slat roller doors in a green colour which the wife likes.

Time to program the Homelink system in my S5 to operate the Novoferm doors which are Homelink compatible.

Now who is thinking "well Dippy, that must have been an easy process, I bet it took only a few minutes to do"?

Nobody? Well you must be a cynical as me then!

Indeed, after failing to get the car to recognise a new remote either with the "old" method described in the handbook, or the "new" one where the MMI provides guidance directly, I resorted to the interweb. Lots of info there. Mostly American (gotta love 'em). Most of it useless. But then of course, buried in the umpteenth thread I had found, was the pearl of wisdom I needed. Someone advised that it was necessary to hold the remote next to the Audi rings at the front of the car for rather longer than most people would think necessary. I had programmed the remotes to the new door operators by holding down the button for a mere second or two, so I think maybe I had waited around 10 seconds at the front of the car. Surely that was enough?

So back to the car. Set the MMI up to program one of the buttons. Back to the front and hold the remote at the rings and press the button. For how long? Well like waiting for a washing machine door to unlock at the end of the cycle I counted the seconds. I got to 20 and thought about giving up, but persevered. Then at 29 the indicators flashed 3 times - exactly what was supposed to happen when the car had learned the remote. Testing it out, indeed I had managed to sync the car's Homelink button to my new garage door, and it is now working well and with a good range.

But nearly 30 seconds? (and it wasn't a one-off, that's how long it took to learn the other button, for my wife's door). Surely that is something that the good people at Audi should have warned about in the manual?
 
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Dippy,

I have retrofitted homelink on two Audi’s now. Am currently doing it for my third.

30 seconds sounds about right it the other thing that was key was to press the learn button on the receiving device also when testing the Audi programmed button.

The other thing I feel loathed to tell you is that you can buy for £45 a universal receiver that is homelink certified. You simply connect this to the auxiliary terminals on your non homelink compatible door opener (just shorts the terminals) and then programme your car to talk to the new universal receiver.

I did this on each of the gates and garage doors at my house when I moved three years ago.
 
Yes, I had to use a universal receiver for the Gliderol controller.
 
Back to FIS-Control MMI (and I'm going to use "FCM" from now-on even though it is similar to that horrible practice in certain communities :rage:)

I decided to spend some time today investigating the 5F DTC I had seen. I have posted my results for Stefan on the FCM English forum, so I won't give full details here. But my conclusion that it is not an issue with my particular FCM, i.e. not a bad connection, but a basic incompatibility with my car. I suppose that I could say that it seems to be an FCM design fault, a marginal one, such that it is OK on some cars but not others.

In essence I proved that the DTC only occurs when FCM is connected, so it is not the car's fault. Then the DTC specifically occurs when I turn the power to the car off. Likely there is a timing issue whereby FCM powers down slightly before the relevant control unit in the car, so it briefly detects and open circuit in the LVDS connection.

The good thing is that the existence of the DTC is the only problem - as far as I am aware FCM is working as expected and there is no consequential impact on other car systems. Since I already get power management DTCs caused by my dashcam, I am used to checking and clearing them, so having another one is acceptable, as long as I can treat it as an explained fault.
 
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My FCM is now installed. Just recharging my very underused Android tablet as my Samsung doesn't seem to want to upload any new firmware (not sure if it is to do with the fact it is paired to the regular MMI...)
 
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Is Stefan likely to update the firmware to correct this?
Stefan replied to my report on the FCM forum and didn't suggest that it could be fixed in firmware. This makes sense to me because what appears to be happening is that the FCM turns off slightly before other systems in the car do whilst the 12V line falls, causing the o/c to be detected. No way that FW can fix that. A simple solution would be to add a reservoir capacitor across the supply in the FCM box to hold the voltage for a bit longer.

I am genuinely not bothered by this because it is now explained (not a problem with my specific FCM such that I would need RMA) and has no other symptoms. Clearing these DTCs every time I use VCDS (as I have to do because my dashcam causes a power management DTC) is not a problem to me.
 
My FCM is now installed. Just recharging my very underused Android tablet as my Samsung doesn't seem to want to upload any new firmware (not sure if it is to do with the fact it is paired to the regular MMI...)
Presumably since you have the same ECU as me, you can only configure 8 measurements?
 
Presumably since you have the same ECU as me, you can only configure 8 measurements?
Because I have the same firmware as you, I have only tried 8!

I'm getting there now after a few uploads and figuring out how Stefan thinks and seeing how the website works (the auto-conversion of the background file confused me at first!). To update the firmware (as it wasn't obvious to me and maybe why my 'phone didn't work) you need to send a command to the MMI before uploading the file. Unfortunately, it is named "Delete firmware" rather than "Update firmware"... You should see the letter "C" in the text window of the app. Now you can upload the new firmware file. Once uploaded, off-then-on with the ignition and then reconnect. New firmware version should be available.
 
So it wasn't just me who thought that the process is a bit weird then!
It's OK when you are used to it. The only annoying thing is that it does take quite a while to upload a new background.
 
Not just you. User interfaces are not the forte of most software developers... Trust me.. I'm one ;)
 
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Not just you. User interfaces are not the forte of most software developers... Trust me.. I'm one ;)

Not just UI @arad85, I never had anything delivered on the promised day/time from my Devs either


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I got around to taking some photos of the mods I did to secure the fuel pipe. The two clips were cut out of an OE air pipe and then secured with tie-wraps. The taped-up roll of sponge is what I had used before to stop the fuel pipe rubbing against the air pipe but I decided to leave it on as a cushion for when the bonnet is closed and I assume that the soundproofing material is touching it.

S1550039
S1550041
S1550042
 
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I got around to taking some photos of the mods I did to secure the fuel pipe. The two clips were cut out of an OE air pipe and then secured with tie-wraps. The taped-up roll of sponge is what I had used before to stop the fuel pipe rubbing against the air pipe but I decided to leave it on as a cushion for when the bonnet is closed and I assume that the soundproofing material is touching it.

View attachment 168277 View attachment 168279 View attachment 168280

Simple but effective @Dippy
I'll need to have a look at mines to make sure the fuel pipe is secured in the same way. :thumbs up:

JG
 
My 034 intake has only been on a couple of weeks and don't think I've even done 100 miles but I can see where the fuel pipe was rubbing on the intake pipe.

Call me funny but not sure I want a fuel pipe rubbing through, granted it might take a while.

16mm pipe clip, cable tie, abrasion resistant loom tape and some Blue Peter skills.

IMG-20181025-WA0005.jpeg
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I was considering selling my eventuri intake and going for this to recover s bit of money.

Not sure now!
 
To be fair the eventuri intake has even less mitigation for the fuel pipe. Due to the bell of the intake the pipe has no room to run up and over the top by the looks of things.

The angles the fuel pipe is forced into doesn't just look poorly thought out it looks ****** dangerous and right up against the two metal clamps.... God knows how ruff it is where you can't see how forced it's path is underneath.

Would definitely need to redo the fuel lines if I had one of these.



They do look good though.
 
I believe that one of the tuners sells a kit with a new pipe which goes underneath the intake? If so that might be an alternative to what has been done above.

I did have a look into that Eventuri intake and apart from looking good I suspect that it ought to have performance to match. It would be good to see the results with a standard MRC stage 2 - if there is any different right at the top of the rev range. But considering how rarely my revs get into the red it clearly wouldn't be worth it for me.
 
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Yes - I think that's probably the best solution, but I'll leave mine as it is now.
 

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