PFL gearbox clunks in traffic

mz21

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I'm trying to accept the way the gearbox on my car works but it is starting to affect me.

For me it is difficult to explain this in english, but basically the gearbox behaves very badly in traffic, when coming to a stop and it goes from 2nd to 1st gear 70% of the times I can hear and feel a very noticeable clunk in my feet area, coming from underneath the car which is no pleasant at all.

This weekend I was in a traffic queue moving at 0-10 mph during 15 minutes and the behavior of the gearbox was horrible, super jerky, I was being as smooth as possible and I could feel and hear these clunks all the time either when coming to a stop or when moving slowly, to the point where my girlfriend, who couldn't care less about cars, asked me what was that that she was feeling on her feet. When moving slow and off throttle it feels like the gearbox disengages the clutch (like going into Neutral) and when I get on throttle again it engages it but doesn't have the ability to be smooth, it is a strange feeling and something I cannot explain in english properly.

When moving fast and normal speed the gearbox is fine, the gearshift are a bit jolty specially if going fast but other than that it is not bad, feels more a less normal.

I drove plenty of dct boxes and know how they behave, that is why I'm having a hard time accepting this.

Can somebody relate with this? Appreciate all the help and feedback.
 
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I had this on my PFL and also on my TTRS. As you say, it feels almost as if it is disengaging the clutch, even though it should be in gear still. Very noticeable at low speed if creeping to a stop, less so if braking a bit more suddenly. I put it down to all the Haldex/4WD gubbins and a quirk of the car rather than anything serious.
 
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Exactly, D0C do you feel this clunk on your feet at low speeds also?
 
Some owners do suffer with the PFL gbox then again, most owners never had an issue. You can try the gearbox reset procedure if you have or can get access to vcds to see if that helps.


Gearbox reset procedure:
Prerequisites:
- Transmission fluid temperature greater than 15°C
- Do NOT continue if the temp is out of specs! -
- Advanced Measuring Values = [Control Module temperature]
- Selector lever in [P]
- Engine idle speed, do not press accelerator pedal
- Parking brake and foot brake applied during the entire procedure
- Note: Not all transmission controllers support this function
0BH - Basic Settings Procedure - Be sure all the Prerequisites are followed, important! - The brake
pedal must be depressed during the entire procedure.
[Select] [02 - Transmission]
[Basic Settings - UDS]
- Select [Basic settings of transmission]
Next click [Show Measuring Data] and select:
- [Engine speed]
- [Main status of abort code basic setting]
- [Status of basic setting]
- [Status of basic setting data for clutch]
- [Status of basic setting data; gear selector]
- [Sub-status of abort code basic setting]
Then press [Go!]
- During the basic setting procedure, there may be some loud gear shifting noises from the
transmission, this is normal.
Basic settings may not complete successfully if:
- The fluid temperature gets too hot.
- Brake is released
Once complete, there should be an indication of this in the [Status of Basic Settings].
Then click - [Done, Go Back] and Check for fault code
 
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Exactly, D0C do you feel this clunk on your feet at low speeds also?
Yes, exactly like you've described. This did happen on my PFL, a FL that I also test drove and my TT. So I assume it is meant to happen.
 
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Yeah the gearbox is bit of a dog in slow moving traffic. I concur the jerky feeling mainly from 1-2.
It feels like it's unsure if and when to change up or not. The longer ur stuck in a traffic jam the worse it gets.


Current - 2018 RS3 Sedan
Past - 2016 RS3 SB
 
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I don't believe U can reset the gearbox via vcds. It can only be done by Odis.

U can clear the codes but not reset it.


Current - 2018 RS3 Sedan
Past - 2016 RS3 SB
 
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Some owners do suffer with the PFL gbox then again, most owners never had an issue. You can try the gearbox reset procedure if you have or can get access to vcds to see if that helps.


Gearbox reset procedure:
Prerequisites:
- Transmission fluid temperature greater than 15°C
- Do NOT continue if the temp is out of specs! -
- Advanced Measuring Values = [Control Module temperature]
- Selector lever in [P]
- Engine idle speed, do not press accelerator pedal
- Parking brake and foot brake applied during the entire procedure
- Note: Not all transmission controllers support this function
0BH - Basic Settings Procedure - Be sure all the Prerequisites are followed, important! - The brake
pedal must be depressed during the entire procedure.
[Select] [02 - Transmission]
[Basic Settings - UDS]
- Select [Basic settings of transmission]
Next click [Show Measuring Data] and select:
- [Engine speed]
- [Main status of abort code basic setting]
- [Status of basic setting]
- [Status of basic setting data for clutch]
- [Status of basic setting data; gear selector]
- [Sub-status of abort code basic setting]
Then press [Go!]
- During the basic setting procedure, there may be some loud gear shifting noises from the
transmission, this is normal.
Basic settings may not complete successfully if:
- The fluid temperature gets too hot.
- Brake is released
Once complete, there should be an indication of this in the [Status of Basic Settings].
Then click - [Done, Go Back] and Check for fault code

Thank you, but unfortunately I don't have access to VCDS and can't find anyone in Portugal that has it
 
Seem like this is normal and no reason to leave it on the dealer then. It is strange that very old dct gearbox don't behave like this, and this car being from 2016 has these problems. My 997 from 2009 with 130k klms has a very smooth dct gearbox, is it not even comparable.
 
Been told at some point an update is due to come out.. software update for the gearbox apparently.. hopefully what I’ve been told is true!!


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I can't say I've ever experienced it unless it's in S mode. In S it can be very jerky around town but I can't say I feel or hear any big noises. In D it's fairly smooth.
 
Actually there is a software update for the gearbox. Ask your dealer for it and let them perform a new adaption drive. The gearbox will changes gear much smoother.

This is a common problem with the DSG in the A3, Octavia, Seat Leon and Golf etc

A3 8V Facelift Limousine
 
Yeah he mentions a full factory reset there, but the aforementioned procedure resets it's "learned" parameters, which as I said, may help.
 
I've done the DSG VCDS reset on various 'OLDER' cars (TT3.2 O2E / 8P RS3 OBH) and it has worked a treat.

However what i've learned about the PFL and FL 'ODL' boxes is that the VCDS procedure doesn't really work properly.

You need a proper Odis reset by the dealer or someone with Odis, the reason being that after the procedure is carried out by Odis the car needs to go on a defined adaption drive using the gearbox how Odis dictates, not something one person can do safely on a public road.
 
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Actually there is a software update for the gearbox. Ask your dealer for it and let them perform a new adaption drive. The gearbox will changes gear much smoother.

This is a common problem with the DSG in the A3, Octavia, Seat Leon and Golf etc

A3 8V Facelift Limousine
Assuming gearbox software update is for PFL only as the thread title?
 
My dealer just called me saying there is a gearbox software upgrade from July 2018, I thought this may interest some of you.

At the moment I'm not sure my problem is the gearbox, it may be the diff and/or clutches. When coming to a stop I can hear and feel these these clunks on my feet but it is not when the gearbox is downshifting, so I think it is something else.
 
Mine does the same in manual mode from 2nd to 1st. Just a characteristic of the box I think. Been doing it since I became the second owner and over 20000 miles and 12months later still does it but perhaps it is not as noticeable as your one fella.
 
Mine does a jolt from first to second near the limiter. Does anyone else’s do this?
May ring a local dealer to ask if software update fixes this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mine does a jolt from first to second near the limiter. Does anyone else’s do this?
May ring a local dealer to ask if software update fixes this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep same with mine in manual mode. Like I said I think it’s the characteristics of this gearbox and transfer box perhaps?
 
My dealer just called me saying there is a gearbox software upgrade from July 2018, I thought this may interest some of you.

At the moment I'm not sure my problem is the gearbox, it may be the diff and/or clutches. When coming to a stop I can hear and feel these these clunks on my feet but it is not when the gearbox is downshifting, so I think it is something else.

Be interesting to see what the update does and if many people are aware of it and have had it done :icon thumright:
 
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Yep same with mine in manual mode. Like I said I think it’s the characteristics of this gearbox and transfer box perhaps?

Possibly.. when it happened made me think gearbox/engine mount might be broken!


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Mine does a jolt from first to second near the limiter. Does anyone else’s do this?
May ring a local dealer to ask if software update fixes this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine used to have this occasional horrific jolt if I changed up to second right as the limiter was about to kick in, almost as if I had hit the most almighty pot hole. Really quite shocking when it happened. Others have had similar.
 
Mine used to have this occasional horrific jolt if I changed up to second right as the limiter was about to kick in, almost as if I had hit the most almighty pot hole. Really quite shocking when it happened. Others have had similar.

Yeah exactly what happens to mine.. annoying!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That dct life tho
most nearly all dct from 1 st to second clunks slowing down to traffic lights and setting off apart from that there ok f10 dct that we had in the m5 was effortless and snappy at speed even in d but always had that 1st to second jolt and second to first
 
Slightly off topic but mine clunks in first first / second at low speed when feathering the accelerator.

The only way to explain it is, when approaching a round about at low speeds then accelerating away there’s a clunking noise.

Anyone else?
 
Asked my dealer about that PFL gearbox update but they know nothing. (We tried to search for it)

Does anyone have a TPI or any other id number.

Cheers.
\ChRS3tian
 
Asked my dealer about that PFL gearbox update but they know nothing. (We tried to search for it)

Does anyone have a TPI or any other id number.

Cheers.
\ChRS3tian
Do you have a scan of your gearbox? Sw/hw number

A3 8V Facelift Limousine
 
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Do you have a scan of your gearbox? Sw/hw number
Thank you for the reply.

Address 02: Auto Trans (J743) Labels:. 0BH-927-711.clb
Part No SW: 0DL 300 011 D HW: 0BH 927 711 F
Component: GSG DQ500 H10 5201
Revision: 00H10V01
Coding: 0014
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDQ500021 001001
ROD: EV_TCMDQ500021_AU21.rod
VCID: A91A98B5C86A010CEF-80FC

No fault code found.
 
There seem to be two things being discussed on this thread:
  • Shunting gear changes at lower speeds
  • ’Bang’ whilst changing gear under hard acceleration and around the redline

I’ve had both these things and they are different in my opinion. Taking the second first as it is easiest, it’s definitely better to short-shift when going from first to second to avoid this; the car is just too happy to rev!

Shunting at low-speed is more tricky and in my experience happens because the Mechatronic unit adapts to the owner’s style and if they drive harshly the box becomes more harsh. In particular, you should never put the box in neutral when the car is still moving; in my experience this really confuses the box and causes the car to kangaroo quite badly if you do it often. If you are the second owner of the car the previous owner might have already mucked things up for you!

If you start to experience abrupt behaviour then my response it to drive more smoothly for a period of time and help the box become smooth again. Remember that ‘D’ is just a cruising gear and you should really be using S or M when driving enthusiastically. If it’s bad then a Mechatronic reset is pretty much essential to wipe the slate clean again.

In short, this is not ‘normal’ behaviour for the S-Tronic gearbox.
 
There seem to be two things being discussed on this thread:
  • Shunting gear changes at lower speeds
  • ’Bang’ whilst changing gear under hard acceleration and around the redline

I’ve had both these things and they are different in my opinion. Taking the second first as it is easiest, it’s definitely better to short-shift when going from first to second to avoid this; the car is just too happy to rev!

Shunting at low-speed is more tricky and in my experience happens because the Mechatronic unit adapts to the owner’s style and if they drive harshly the box becomes more harsh. In particular, you should never put the box in neutral when the car is still moving; in my experience this really confuses the box and causes the car to kangaroo quite badly if you do it often. If you are the second owner of the car the previous owner might have already mucked things up for you!

If you start to experience abrupt behaviour then my response it to drive more smoothly for a period of time and help the box become smooth again. Remember that ‘D’ is just a cruising gear and you should really be using S or M when driving enthusiastically. If it’s bad then a Mechatronic reset is pretty much essential to wipe the slate clean again.

In short, this is not ‘normal’ behaviour for the S-Tronic gearbox.

Just digging a little deeper as to why the car doesn’t like travelling forwards in neutral, I’ve done it 3/4 times because the car seems to make really loud pops and bangs when you do this, I’ve only ever done it at around 30mph.
 
I’m not an Audi engineer but that is what they told me not to do. :)

ETA I had this problem big-time with my first DSG car but after learning the recommended driving method it’s never been a major issue since. Occasional periods of harshness can be smoothed out.
 
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Thank you for the reply.

Address 02: Auto Trans (J743) Labels:. 0BH-927-711.clb
Part No SW: 0DL 300 011 D HW: 0BH 927 711 F
Component: GSG DQ500 H10 5201
Revision: 00H10V01
Coding: 0014
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDQ500021 001001
ROD: EV_TCMDQ500021_AU21.rod
VCID: A91A98B5C86A010CEF-80FC

No fault code found.
I see two new versions:

5203 and 5210

You now have 5201.

You can ask @DJAlix to update it and do a calibration drive.

A3 8V Facelift Limousine
 
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I see two new versions:

5203 and 5210

You now have 5201.

You can ask @DJAlix to update it and do a calibration drive.
Hi, thank you for your investigation.
Unfortunately i live in Sweden, so that could be a bit of an issue.
Showed you're numbers to my local Audi who still couldn't find anything.
They were offering to take it a step further, but said it could be difficult since the gearbox today "doesn't have any problems".

Best regards.
\Christian.
 
I updated my gearbox last friday and I can confirm that it is shifting faster and smoother, it still isn't the smoothest gearbox but it is definitely more responsive than it was before the update.
 
I updated my gearbox last friday and I can confirm that it is shifting faster and smoother, it still isn't the smoothest gearbox but it is definitely more responsive than it was before the update.

Has it fixed the first to second gear jolt it does near redline?
Will be calling my dealers regarding an update.


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haven't felt any brutal gearchange like before since the update but I didn't try first to second near redline.
 
haven't felt any brutal gearchange like before since the update but I didn't try first to second near redline.

Let us know if you try a shift near redline


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