HELP - B7 2.0Tdi - Inlet Manifold

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V6_Man

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Hi guys,

I had been experiencing slight loss in power recently on my A4 B7 2.0Tdi, booked in the car with the local garage and they said the diaphragm on the intake manifold (or whatever) was broken. How the fock did this happen, I have no clue - pics below FYI: (is this the diaphragm, right?)

2762e5122e9cb580d6ad98d44ef1cfbc.jpg


2a6407497047c80ca62c6736ace94a02.jpg


d37d1e2bd11d651484b7bab922db1c17.jpg



The garage that I use said I need to change the intake manifold and can't just change the above. As I am not technical enough could the wise amongst us help suggest if this is correct? If not, how can this be fixed. And if it is correct, apart from TPS what manifold buying options do I have.

Would appreciate your help!

Tash
 
Last edited:
First bit of advice is don't use that garage if they suggest you need to change the inlet manifold!
It is the inlet manifold flap actuator and can be bought from tps for about £15ish quid. Never seen one break like that though. Usually the diaphragm inside that perishes.
You'll need to remove the manifold to change it though. A bit fiddly but not too difficult. Worth cleaning out the manifold, egr while you're there. Get the gasket from tps too. Think I paid £30 For all of the parts..

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I had a look on the parts database chap and it does show the part in question but not as an individual part.
I'll' look a bit futher for the part number.

Upload 2018 2 26 21 16 52
 
I think its this ... S03G129061C , but i'll double check chap.
 
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here you go,

Upload 2018 2 26 21 25 29
 
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It is exactly this part @Just Rob. The garage has told me you can’t buy the part alone, it comes as part of the manifold, which is £589+vat . And I have questioned them if this is the case.


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tut_gareth said:
First bit of advice is don't use that garage if they suggest you need to change the inlet manifold!
It is the inlet manifold flap actuator and can be bought from tps for about £15ish quid. Never seen one break like that though. Usually the diaphragm inside that perishes.
You'll need to remove the manifold to change it though. A bit fiddly but not too difficult. Worth cleaning out the manifold, egr while you're there. Get the gasket from tps too. Think I paid £30 For all of the parts..

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Click to expand...

Cheers mate - much appreciated!


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Call TPS , around £12.00 - £15.00 , maybe a chance it's A03G 129 061 C £11.94 but tps will confirm which one you need.
 
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You're welcome chap, let know how you get on so I can add a link with the parts details for others to follow should they have a similar issue.
 
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audi upgrades
Just Rob. said:
Call TPS , around £12.00 - £15.00 , maybe a chance it's A03G 129 061 C £11.94 but tps will confirm which one you need.
Click to expand...

Cheers @Just Rob. Will call TPS tomorrow and probably get both the parts. Looks like I will have to change the garage, which is a nightmare. I am not good with tools and can only do very basic bits. Would be a bit too scared to do it myself.


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Just blank the vac line off will make no difference if the manifolds flaps are working or not.

With no vac they will be fully open, you can have my BLB manifold if you want it which doesn’t have the inlet flaps inside it.
 
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jay1601 said:
Just blank the vac line off will make no difference if the manifolds flaps are working or not.

With no vac they will be fully open, you can have my BLB manifold if you want it which doesn’t have the inlet flaps inside it.
Click to expand...

Hi @jay1601 cheers mate. Mine is a BRE engine and the question (maybe a stupid one) is if it would fit? I would need to find out a garage locally in Oxford first who is willing to do a good job.


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Just remembered I still have my old one in the garage. Will check the numbers in the morning if I get chance.

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That would be good chap , will help ensure the correct part number gets posted and for future ref, also in case there have been newer revision parts and part numbers.
 
Inlet manifolds are the same it’s a easy job to swap, less that a hour start to finish

Only need Allen keys for the manifold and torx for the EGR/shudder valve removal
 
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tut_gareth said:
Just remembered I still have my old one in the garage. Will check the numbers in the morning if I get chance.

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Click to expand...
First photo is the old unit, and second I'm fairly certain is the new unit box... mine's a brd but I'm confident it is a std part for many vag tdi's.
9d6ab51b4b0b08f56ac0699a3f820b11.jpg
6ec65ec2a18317bb4aef9238427c3175.jpg


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thanks for the update , so the part number I put up is correct ...
 
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Jakes2514 said:
Forgive my ignorance... who/what is TPS?


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Click to expand...

https://tps.trade/

Genuine VW parts specialist, you get the genuine parts cheaper compared to buying them from a stealership.


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Just Rob. said:
did you get it sorted chap..
Click to expand...

I have ordered the parts and will collect tomorrow. The car is going to be remapped by Bobby Singh (forum member), I have discussed it with him and will let him decide how he would like to approach it, whether to remove them or put the new one. I will update once I have got the part.


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Just as an info, for maybe why the garage said u must order the whole inlet manifold. When i was buyin a new one for my a4, when searchin etka for this part, it showed it only as a part with the inlet manifold. Only when entering the part number, it showed the part separately and it wasnt even for an a4 but an a3. Same part, on a3 u can get it separatedly on a4 it shows it together with the manifold. Weird one :p

Cheers
 
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Just Rob. said:
did you get it sorted chap..
Click to expand...

Hi mate. Wanted to confirm that the I got the part and it was exactly what you and @tut_gareth suggested. The part cost £14 from TPS. Car going in Thursday next week for a remap, which will be done by Bobby.


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Pictures of the new part:

06ae0d2953cfdb481f623da721a5094c.jpg


cb4f1a33e763765eeb3942f98011ef50.jpg


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Hi guys, please help if you can?

I've been having the same issues with my 57 Audi A4 B7 2.0TDI s-line where up to 2000 rpm the car is lumpy and has loads of black smoke out the back until the turbo kicks in at 2000 rpm.
Above 2000 rpm the car goes like mad as the EGR valve was shut off when the car was mapped about 3 years ago. Performance has always been good since
However, I travel mainly on motorways and have found that above 2500 rpm the car seems to go into limp mode but not fully
I can get up to about 80-85 mph but that's about it and occasionally the speed reduces on hills again not always.
I've checked on my VAG code reader and I occasionally get the following fault code 00564 - 112 CAN BUS Selection Lever (E313) but this code does not always arise. I've had the same limpish mode problem at other times but with no error code showing?

The car has recently had a Terraclean to try and clean out the injectors etc, and the garage also checked out the Turbo actuator/blades along with all the turbo pipes and indicated that all is working fine EXCEPT there being NO vacuum being held at the Inlet Manifold Actuator which may suggests the Actuator/Diaphram may be faulty as you have described above.

I have purchased a replacement from TPS for £14 and the garage are going to take the Inlet Manifold off and replace the actuator in a few days - did replacing this part sort out your problem?

Any help would be much appreciated
 
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Anthony Perkins said:
Hi guys, please help if you can?

I've been having the same issues with my 57 Audi A4 B7 2.0TDI s-line where up to 2000 rpm the car is lumpy and has loads of black smoke out the back until the turbo kicks in at 2000 rpm.
Above 2000 rpm the car goes like mad as the EGR valve was shut off when the car was mapped about 3 years ago. Performance has always been good since
However, I travel mainly on motorways and have found that above 2500 rpm the car seems to go into limp mode but not fully
I can get up to about 80-85 mph but that's about it and occasionally the speed reduces on hills again not always.
I've checked on my VAG code reader and I occasionally get the following fault code 00564 - 112 CAN BUS Selection Lever (E313) but this code does not always arise. I've had the same limpish mode problem at other times but with no error code showing?

The car has recently had a Terraclean to try and clean out the injectors etc, and the garage also checked out the Turbo actuator/blades along with all the turbo pipes and indicated that all is working fine EXCEPT there being NO vacuum being held at the Inlet Manifold Actuator which may suggests the Actuator/Diaphram may be faulty as you have described above.

I have purchased a replacement from TPS for £14 and the garage are going to take the Inlet Manifold off and replace the actuator in a few days - did replacing this part sort out your problem?

Any help would be much appreciated
Click to expand...

Hi buddy, for me replacing the part fixed the problem. I didn't have to do anything else on the car. I did end up selling the car last year though as Mrs was doing a lot of local miles and the economy wasn't that great at all.
 
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Cheers buddy, many thanks for your quick response
I just hope this fixes my problem as the car is still pretty economical even with the fault, and when the car is running right it goes like hell
thanks again
 
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Anthony Perkins said:
Cheers buddy, many thanks for your quick response
I just hope this fixes my problem as the car is still pretty economical even with the fault, and when the car is running right it goes like hell
thanks again
Click to expand...

Not a problem buddy and fingers crossed. I am sure she will start behaving after the fix
 
Hi guys sorry to jump on an old thread but I am having this exact problem, I have the part but the garages are basically ignorant to the fact you can just change the part rather than the whole thing as been mentioned here. How much did the replacement cost for you guys and what did they have to do?? Thanks in advance
 
Reece Jones said:
Hi guys sorry to jump on an old thread but I am having this exact problem, I have the part but the garages are basically ignorant to the fact you can just change the part rather than the whole thing as been mentioned here. How much did the replacement cost for you guys and what did they have to do?? Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
About £15 from tps

Easy fix, did mine a few weeks back
 
Hi bud thanks for relying, I have purchased the part itself but can’t get a mechanic who knows how to replace just the part rather than the whole lot. Can it be done DIY?
 
Reece Jones said:
Hi bud thanks for relying, I have purchased the part itself but can’t get a mechanic who knows how to replace just the part rather than the whole lot. Can it be done DIY?
Click to expand...
You need to remove the inlet manifold to access the part, once off its obvious how it is replaced.
Inlet manifold comes off easily, remove egr first. It's just a case of unbolting, easy to access.
There are posts on here of how to remove egr with pictures.
If I can do it anyone can :)
Have a few cans of choke cleaner handy as the inside of the inlet manifold is likely to be full of crud which will need cleaning.
 
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Gents in the know - thinking of doing this to mine as a preventative/fix on the regen lag I've been experiencing. What Coke Cleaner do people recommend?
 
How’d you get on Reece?
I’m about to do mine. I cleaned the EGR last year and got loads of carbon off.
I didn’t open the manifold but am presuming I just remove EGR and everything again and then unbolt the manifold.
Is it easy to see how to replace the part? Or at least see how it comes out?
Also do TPS sell the gaskets for when I bolt the manifold back up?
thanks
 
Dgorie, it's easy. Once the manifold is off you can see how the vacuum unit comes off.
manifold easily unbolts, watch out for one bolt which is inside the space where the egr bolts on, usually covered in crud so not always obvious.
have cleaner ready for manifold flaps.
all parts available from tps including gasgets.
 
Thanks... I’m now a fully fledged professional mechanic now anyway after ordering the part...
 
FINALLY I got around to sorting this! So I am reviving the old thread.

So far so good - all of my intermittent stutter type loss of power at low revs and before the turbo kicks in has gone!!! (So far).

It was easy to see how its changed after its all apart - thanks for the reassurance! I have attached some photos below.

Hope this forum helps anyone else who has similar issues as aside from taking me half a day (I'm not the most experienced mechanic) it cost me just under £15 to fix!

In the photo the two unbolted nuts are the only thing connecting it. You have to slide the arm connector around to fit it on. I was careful with this bit as I imagined it would be easy to break.
 

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