S3 8p my build thread

Audadi s3 8p

Audadi s3 8p

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Hey all I'm going to post my build going for a tte420 turbo

Car currently has stage 2+

Recently had one of the rockers snap off which almost caused complete engine failure so the car has just come back from the shop with the following

3.5" stainless steel exhaust from turbo back
Apr stage 2+ tune
Apr hpfp
New fuel pump bucket
Nutblast on intake
Apr rfd kit
New roller rockers
New follower
New gaskets, sealant
Sealing ring tensioner and chain kit
New engine mount
Timing belt ring
Water pump

Cosmetically the car is on 9" wide 19" multi spoke wheels
Pedders xyz fully adjustable coilovers
Rs3 front bar and grill

My next purchases will be a lpfp, bigger injectors, 165 bar, larger intercooler and a tte420 hybrid turbo than obviously a retune

Any suggestions or anyone with knowledge of the build I'm doing feel free to add your 2 cents

Thanks guys
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Last edited:
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A guy doogie on here runs tte420 check out his thread on it. Car looks great mate.

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What clutch are you going to be running for a tte? Car looks great!
 
Thread is titled Doogies phantom black s3...........progress thread. There's loads of info on there regarding the tte420

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jamiepaton5 said:
Thread is titled Doogies phantom black s3...........progress thread. There's loads of info on there regarding the tte420

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Click to expand...

Cheers man I'll look into it


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Okay so I'm unsure whether to get rs4 injectors and coilpacks or r8 coilpacks and the rs4 injectors can anyone help ?

Thanks guys


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Sweet sounds good I seen s4 injectors says theyr good for 500+ hp

And yeah I did haven't got all the way thru it yet tho lol I may just do the mods n hope the engine holds the power for 3-4 months than start on the bottom end


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samuelh_888 said:
R8 coil packs would be fine but with the TTE420 you’d be fine on your S3 injectors. You could go RS3 injectors, I’m not sure about the RS4 ones however. Did you have a read of @leshkin build thread?

Doogies thread is at: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/doogies-phantom-black-s3-progress-thread.215135/
Click to expand...

So I read the whole thread sounds like I'll be ordering a Wagner fmic come Monday than once that's all fitted wait a couple weeks and get the coilpacks, fprv and turbo and fit them, I'll most probably just run all those mods on the apr stage 2+ for a week or two before taking into shop to have the apr420 software put on


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Stock S3 injectors are fine for TTE420 application if mapped properly and you have no plans for going all out on power. I'm running RS3 injectors and they have been nothing but pain in my case - smoke on WOT and plenty of cold running issues. RS4 injectors are going to be the same in terms of spray pattern being wrong for the S3 cylinder. At this point, I'm considering switching back to s3 injectors as I have no plans to go for higher power.

Highly recommend getting the anti-roll bars and brakes sorted as the way your car will pick up speed now will be pretty quick and you will find that you need to stop on occasion :)
 
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Okay sweet to really all I need is the fmic than either 155 or 165 bar fprv and than the new turbo yeah ?

I've been told to also get inlet and outlet pipes, lpfp and r8 coilpacks. What are your thoughts ?


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What year is your car, you might have to factor in changing the valve springs as you may get valve float too, not common but does occur especially in 2007/8 models. i think there was a recall. I got it on mine which is a 2011. I only went for rs3 injectors as one of my standard ones was leaking causing a misfire at wot. here is my thread if your interested http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...ant-it-to-be-with-a-tte420-eventually.269165/
 
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Yes, you will need the LPFP. TTRS unit is a plug and play as far as I know. Some have reported issues with the stock pump controller under prolonged high power usage, but I have not had issues with it during track or long fast road use, so will keep that for now.

You definitely don't need red R8 coilpacks other than for making the engine bay look pretty. There are unverified stories that they are better somehow, but I used both and see no obvious benefit to this 'upgrade'. I asked Niki at RTech (the guy who tuned my car) and he is of the same opinion.

The FRV you need will depend on the ECU map as that will be requesting a set fuel rail pressure and the FRV will need to be rated just over that. Best speak to your tuner about which one you will need, but pretty sure that neither the stock or RS4 FRV will be enough.

The FMIC is a must-have upgrade at this point and there are plenty of options here. I run AirTech Stage 2 unit, but there are plenty of other decent kits out there. Inlet and outlet pipes are optional really - I run stock pipes, but can see potential in getting CTS throttle pipe as that does not have the same kink that the stock one has. I do see the possibility of having clearance issues due to how close it would be to one of the the radiator fans. The outlet pipe is a waste of money on a TTE420 turbo IMO as that turbo already comes with a turbo muffler delete and the stock pipe has no restrictions that I could see.

The things I would recommend though, are a fresh fuel filter if yours has not been replaced recently (last thing you want is this thing causing fuel shortages under load), a set of NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs if you haven't already and use the best engine oil you can get your hands on (I use Millers Nanodrive 5W40 in UK).

Oh, and check your cam follower religiously at every oil change as highly tuned TFSIs tend to eat them faster due to extra load on the HPFP. I know some people went for a stud kit for HPFP to prevent damage to the camchain cover threads due to frequent inspections. An alternative is to get a FSI roller kit, which is what I've done - pricey, but seems to be a better option than the keeping the follower.
 
I've just spoken to my tuner he says to go the tte480 instead ? What's everyone's thoughts ? I've ordered fmic and fpv and will get lpfp shorty,

Also am looking at brake kits I've seen everyone using the yellow speed racing set ups.
Would I need to do front and rear ? Or could I get away with say 6pot fronts from yellow racing than just replace the rear pads and rotors


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You will need the 165 bar FRV, so I hope that’s the one you ordered!
I recently fitted a Wagner to my S3. All went well but the bigger inlet and outlet metal pipes and now very near the plastic inner radiator shroud. So there is little clearance to get the clamps on to the silicone pipes. So file away the excess plastic before trying to get everything back into place. You will need to do a bit of filing of the air con rad mounting holes to get everything bolted up and get some small washers to make sure the air con rad dryer is not rubbing on the intercooler welds. Also worth considering replacing the air con rad as a matter of course as of it leaks 6 months down the line everything has to come off again.
Regarding the TTE 480, you really need a forged engine to get the best out of it. Your tuner can limit the torque but then you would be at TTE 420 torque figures any way. You can get a higher BHP but it is torque that you feel as you accelerate.
The whole project needs to be realistic within your budget. It is very easy to get carried away.
 
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prt57 said:
You will need the 165 bar FRV, so I hope that’s the one you ordered!
I recently fitted a Wagner to my S3. All went well but the bigger inlet and outlet metal pipes and now very near the plastic inner radiator shroud. So there is little clearance to get the clamps on to the silicone pipes. So file away the excess plastic before trying to get everything back into place. You will need to do a bit of filing of the air con rad mounting holes to get everything bolted up and get some small washers to make sure the air con rad dryer is not rubbing on the intercooler welds. Also worth considering replacing the air con rad as a matter of course as of it leaks 6 months down the line everything has to come off again.
Regarding the TTE 480, you really need a forged engine to get the best out of it. Your tuner can limit the torque but then you would be at TTE 420 torque figures any way. You can get a higher BHP but it is torque that you feel as you accelerate.
The whole project needs to be realistic within your budget. It is very easy to get carried away.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I ordered, I'm going to get the fmic fitted for free when I get the tune,

And as for the turbo I'm planning on forging the motor few months down the track after turbos done that's reason why I'm gonna get the 480 so after the engine is forged I'm able to get more power again without changing the turbo


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Audadi s3 8p said:
Also am looking at brake kits I've seen everyone using the yellow speed racing set ups.
Would I need to do front and rear ? Or could I get away with say 6pot fronts from yellow racing than just replace the rear pads and rotors
Click to expand...

I can only speak from my personal experience, but the brake setup you go with will ultimately depend on how you plan on using the car. Yellow Speed Racing 6pot 356mm disk kit offers plenty of power to stop a full weight S3 all day long and comes with braided lines for the front. It's a decent option and offers relatively good value for money, very light and is a well-known make in the JDM scene. If you do go for one though, get the painted finish as anodised will fade quickly.

The way I see it, all that is needed for the rear is a set of good pads, disks (vagbremtechnic spring to mind) and braided lines. Rear calipers don't have to be massively powerful as their primary function is to stabilise the rear of the car under heavy braking rather than do any actual stopping, so there is little point in upgrading them unless you're building a time-attack monster. To give you an idea of how little the rears are used, I am just about to replace my rear stock pads after 3 years of relatively hard use.

Your choice of pads will dictate how much heavy braking the system will deal with before it will fade or stuff begins to cook - remember that S3 is a pretty heavy car for its size. Selecting what pads you want will depend on how you plan to use your car. Don't put racing pads on if you do not plan to go on track with the car or do very occasional track days. If you do want to do many track days, then you will absolutely need race-oriented pads to handle the repeated high speed braking and high temperatures that come with that, but be prepared to pay the price through very high brake disk wear, increased potential for noise, poor performance when cold and dust... Lots of dust!

It goes without saying that brake fluid is another key aspect of a good brake setup - change it often if you use the car hard and use very high quality brake fluid to ensure you get the highest boiling point you can - Motul RBF 600 is a good option here. It's a DOT4 fluid, so great for a road car, but also exceeds the DOT 5.1 and DOT 3 standards except in extremely cold climates (-40C or something like that).
 
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Yeah that's what I was looking at getting the yellow speeds fairly cheap compared to say brembos lol.

What's your point of view on the tte480 ? I thought it would be better off so that they can safe tune the car to 420bhp until I forge the engine than just up the boost some more and get bigger power figures and not to mention not having the upgrade the turbo to gain that power. @leshkin


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Yes a detuned TTE 480 will be the better option long term compared to the 420 if you plan on forging your engine eventually. However, if you are planning on forging the engine there maybe better big turbo options out there.
As I said earlier, you need to think what you want from your car eventually and plan accordingly so you don’t waste cash by going down the wrong route.
 
Yeah I think I just want to try get around 450-500hp atw so I should be able to get that out of the 480, and also pricing is ridiculous for a garret gtx going for around 6-7k Aus dollar for turbo and manifold where the 480 is only 4200 Aus dollar,

Like who knows there's a possibility of a gtx in future but that may not be until mid next year I can always sell the 480 when it comes down to that to chuck in for the newer bigger turbo


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There's tte section on here with results from different setups and tuners. Take a look there and see if that suits your needs.
 
If your funds allow a TTE480 and you plan on going further than what the TTE420 can deliver, then the choice is obvious - no point in wasting money on TTE420. Under stressed turbo is a very happy turbo :)

My personal opinion is that anything above 400bhp on these cars is bordering on silly unless you do competitions or want a drag racing queen. On the road, there is not a huge amount of difference between a well setup Stg2+ and a TTE420, with the TTE unit easily pulling away toward the top end of the rev range obviously. Not having any experience with the TTE480, I couldn't comment on it, but suspect that the extra power would rarely be used unless you're on a private road or enjoy the threat of being put behind bars. The way my car is now, it definitely feels too powerful for the amount of grip we get with the winter weather in UK.

If I was doing it again, I'd probably be sensible and stay at Stg2+ - lots of usable power, practical, with good brakes and solid handling makes for a great fast road car. Saying that, 400+bhp does roll off the tongue well and having a car that can still scare you even after years of ownership is a cool feeling that means that there little to tempt you into buying a RS3.
 
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I’m having a tte420 with Ttrs lpfp, CTS charge pipes and 155 FPRV fitted on Saturday. My car is already running RTECH stage 2+ software so will I be ok running my car normally until it goes to be mapped again?
 
I think people say it’s ok but don’t boot it.
I would check with RTech as I thought you need the 165 FPRV with a TTE 420??
 
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I had a Stg2+ map when the TTE420 went in - was told that it should be fine, but it was surging too much. I'd agree with @prt57 - it should be safe, but don't go setting speed/launch records until you have it mapped properly.
 
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Ok thanks, I don’t go flat out or do launch starts anyway I just wanted to be sure I could drive the car and have the odd boost until it was mapped again. Will R TECH need the car for a week when going stage 3?
 
prt57 said:
I think people say it’s ok but don’t boot it.
I would check with RTech as I thought you need the 165 FPRV with a TTE 420??
Click to expand...
I bought everything from doogie off here and he was running good numbers with this setup inc the 155 FPRV?
 
a3 turbp said:
I bought everything from doogie off here and he was running good numbers with this setup inc the 155 FPRV?
Click to expand...
Still worth a phone call in case preferred specifications have changed.
 
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