Bobby Singh A4 3.0 TDI build thread

desertstorm said:
You will have to get the car remapped as the sensor calibration needs remapping.Typically with a boost sensor 0 bar is 0.5V output and the max reading is 4.5V , So essentially a 4v range .
On a 3 bar sensor that's 1.33v per bar and on a 4 bar sensor 1V per bar of boost.
On your standard map at 1 bar of boost which is 2 bar measured on the sensor output voltage is 2.66 +0.5 = 3.16v
If you fitted a 4 bar sensor it would only read 0.5 + 2 = 2.5v output.
The boost pressure would need to be 1.66 bar in the engine to make 3.16v output on a 4 bar sensor.
So Basically your turbo would be seriously overboosting all the time to try and make the boost targets. Probably go into limp mode and if not won't last very long.
Click to expand...

Thanks @desertstorm for the explanation! Would this be worth doing if I already have a stage 1 tune?

My car is already pushing out 312bhp and 660nm on stock hardware, what could i expect to gain with a 4bar MAP sensor + remap?
 
I would imagine that the sensor would enable your tuner to run either slightly higher boost to give more torque
 
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ion2211 said:
Thanks @desertstorm for the explanation! Would this be worth doing if I already have a stage 1 tune?

My car is already pushing out 312bhp and 660nm on stock hardware, what could i expect to gain with a 4bar MAP sensor + remap?
Click to expand...

Regardless of these stages - the car should be tuned to what it can safely do with safety maps still in place.
Stock 2260 on a 3.0tdi can do 320hp / 720nm
But I've tuned some 245hp engines (newer gen) and they seem to make 330hp/750nm (DL501 gearbox)
 
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Hi Bobby, Been reading your thread with interest and seen your vids and Karls on youtube before. Really impressive stuff. Just shows you what these engines can handle and how under spec'd Audis are. Iv got a '06 ASB manual with Sachs, currently just a stage1 at 287.9@4k. Im contemplating putting a nitrous kit on this but reading your thread I need to know how much fuel I can get. What model CP3 do you use? Seems there are a few versions, also do you know the max flow and what stable pressure did you settle at? Cant find the specs anywhere at first search.

Cheers
Paul

ps Sorry if this has been mentioned already, only read half so far, also hope gearbox held up!
 
Paul it doesn't matter which cp3 you use, just needs to be r90.
Railp will be determined by how high your egts are.

Cp1 will exceed 400hp
I would be more concerned about the weak bv50 unit on your car.
 
bobby singh said:
Paul it doesn't matter which cp3 you use, just needs to be r90.
Railp will be determined by how high your egts are.

Cp1 will exceed 400hp
I would be more concerned about the weak bv50 unit on your car.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know BV50 is weak am looking at turbos too. One good thing with nitrous, although a one shot pony, is it leaves the nozzle at -170 f so EGTs won't be a problem. Im sure this could be mapped in your car to bring down EGTs on request, better than WMI. Im hoping my pump is an R90 will have a look. As fuel is only real limit with NOS would be good to know what the pump can provide at all rpms, draw a curve and somewhere at or under that is the power you could aim for. All theory at the moment.
Did your s200 bolt straight on the exhaust or did you fab something to fit it?

Cheers
 
With S200 everything is custom - TIP, oil lines, downpipe etc
I have a spare new unit if you are interested?

For road use I prefer just air and diesel - no drugs policy :)
 
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bobby singh said:
With S200 everything is custom - TIP, oil lines, downpipe etc
I have a spare new unit if you are interested?

For road use I prefer just air and diesel - no drugs policy :)
Click to expand...

Hah. I understand lol. NOS is no good round the ring! I see yours for sale, Im still debating a set up if I go the traditional route, s200 or Holset maybe. All alot of money.
cheers
 
desertstorm said:
You will have to get the car remapped as the sensor calibration needs remapping.Typically with a boost sensor 0 bar is 0.5V output and the max reading is 4.5V , So essentially a 4v range .
On a 3 bar sensor that's 1.33v per bar and on a 4 bar sensor 1V per bar of boost.
On your standard map at 1 bar of boost which is 2 bar measured on the sensor output voltage is 2.66 +0.5 = 3.16v
If you fitted a 4 bar sensor it would only read 0.5 + 2 = 2.5v output.
The boost pressure would need to be 1.66 bar in the engine to make 3.16v output on a 4 bar sensor.
So Basically your turbo would be seriously overboosting all the time to try and make the boost targets. Probably go into limp mode and if not won't last very long.
Click to expand...

Hi @desertstorm , my car is already remapped on stock hardware. If i wanted to upgrade to the 4 bar MAP sensor, would it just be a case of asking a Tuner to calibrate the parameter for extra boost pressure or would I need to remap everything all over again? ... I hope that makes sense.
 
You could just ask the tuner to alter the calibration for the map sensor so it would work OK. However you won't gain anything in performance so I don't see the point of doing it unless you are making other changes such as upgrading the turbo. My car made 720Nm when it was initially mapped with the standard map sensor.
 
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desertstorm said:
You could just ask the tuner to alter the calibration for the map sensor so it would work OK. However you won't gain anything in performance so I don't see the point of doing it unless you are making other changes such as upgrading the turbo.
Click to expand...
Oh, I was under the impression that the 4bar map sensor and more boost from the turbo would give some extra torque?
 
If you altered the mapping to change the boost map as well as changing the calibration of the boost sensor then that should give you more torque in the mid range.It's Bobbies thread and he knows more about this so see what he has to say @bobby singh
 
If lambda drops below 1 you will get smoke.
So in order to make this more lean you have to add boost.
Once you have air then you can inject more fuel
More fuel means more power
So just by adding a sensor doesn't do anything
 
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Bobby, whats the highest fuel quantity you've logged on yours and at what rpm?
cheers
 
bobby singh said:
What difference does it make?
Click to expand...
Ok, Im still new to winols and tuning but getting better. I can work out air consumption vs fuel at any rpm as well as exhaust flow in cfm but dont know in real world at what rpm ecu starts cutting back on fuel to protect engine from over speed. This info would help in search for a turbo. S200 is a good contender but want to work it out myself. This is all academic for me Bobby atm, as still have lots to do and learn but this thread has helped alot and given me some inspiration. Iv ditched the Nos idea and looking into compound turbo setup as dont like drugs either! D
 
Then again as you say, it don't matter, over speed is not my problem as limiters would take care of that. It more to help me work out how much boost I need and when.
 
To be honest I've stopped giving away too much tech information. No offence intended.
Take a alot of time, risk and money to do r&d and only for someone to copy it.
 
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Good luck with the project - sounds interesting . I recommend you install a speed sensor on turbo, it will give exact information on how much scope you have left.
 
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No problem at all. I think its actually exhaust flow Im trying to deal with atm lol
Will let you know if/when I have something to bring to the table.
cheers
 
December 2017

First internal engine modification - uprated valve springs. What a nasty job this was but had to be done in preparation for my future plans.

Objective was to install springs to ensure valves remain closed (without removing heads):


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Ended up breaking the yellow guide off for timing chain from the RHS - German ebay saved the day though :)

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Its always nice to hear the engine start after major works

Engine rev's much nicer in the top end now - I'm convinced there was valve bounce previously.

Cheers
Bobby
 
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Nice.
Keep going.

Trimis de pe al meu SM-J510FN folosind Tapatalk
 
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Pretty brave move trying that kind of thing with the heads still in place, my hat goes off to you.
What's next then compund turbo setup, Silly amounts of boost going to be pushing the intake valves open.
Looking forward to see what happens. You seem to do some of your best work over christmas.
 
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desertstorm said:
Pretty brave move trying that kind of thing with the heads still in place, my hat goes off to you.
What's next then compund turbo setup, Silly amounts of boost going to be pushing the intake valves open.
Looking forward to see what happens. You seem to do some of your best work over christmas.
Click to expand...

Thanks Karl

Its the only time my car is not in use and I’m not busy doing other things haha
Will be single unit
 
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Hardcore, Bobby.

Look forward to the plans. I'm hoping you can surpass the V12 TDI monster in torque.
 
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December 2017

Rear wiper motor

It seems like another common problem rear wiper motor leaking and ruining the inside of the motor making it run continuously:

Managed to locate a Valeo branded (oem)

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F6HVCHG.jpg


Cheers
Bobby
 
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I replaced mine a few years ago, as you say a pretty common problem and that wiper is used on loads of different Audis so they all suffer from it. If it was a Bosch part I am sure it wouldn't fail like these Valeo ones do.
 
what advantages will you have with this first internal engine modification? Hope to see 500hp in the future with all your upgrades Good luck!!!
 
bobby singh said:
Objective was to install springs to ensure valves remain closed
Click to expand...

Horia said:
what advantages will you have with this first internal engine modification? Hope to see 500hp in the future with all your upgrades Good luck!!!
Click to expand...

High boost forces valves to open if seat pressure is weak.
 
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Wow just read all 11 pages.
Great work Bobby, you have given me inspiration for our A5 TDI we just picked up.
The ZF 6hp26 box is also used in the Ford Falcon xr6t here in Australia and the tuning company I worked for tuned some of these producing around 700 kw and 1000nm at the wheels. The box held ok at this power level but had a tendency to break the input shaft on a kick down if you weren't careful.
 
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Hi decided to sell my Hybrid S200v as most will know it made 440hp / 900nm. I've ran this unit for 30k without a

single issue. The unit is like new zero play in the shaft. Compressor wheel and turbine are mint.

Includes:

S200v hybrid
CW 70/50
TW 63/56

with modified compressor housing - anti surge and outlet perfectly welded for VAG 3.0TDI engine. Compressor housing

has 2260 end so fits stock hose.

Hella Actuator modified with stop screw and rod

Oil feed pipe with stock VAG 3.0tdi end

Oil return fitting installed on turbo and block side included

Speed sensor included

Modified VAG 3.0 TDI manifold to allow plug and play (has boss for EGT and EMP)

90mm Turbo Intake pipe included with reducer hose

Spool - makes 2 bar boost by 2600rpm

Pictures:

nTTCgTT.jpg


DpFIrIb.jpg


EmKikNX.jpg


ekA1AHe.jpg


CnnepV1.jpg


7yxKv7z.jpg


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Price is £1500 plus postage or Collection available from Old Windsor (near Heathrow)

Any questions drop me a PM or email BobbySinghRacing@outlook.com

I can tune your car too once installed if you can bring me the car (we can discuss this offline).

Cheers
Bobby

I've added to the sales section too - http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/s200v-hybrid-plug-and-play-for-3-0-tdi-440hp-900nm-unit.357878/
 
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You took the words right out of my mouth! :yes:
 
how bad will the lag be?
 
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If I remember what he told me correctly, the lag shouldn't be that bad. All depends on the hardware and execution, and we all know Bobby's skills and knowledge.

I'm sure if he wanted a bi-turbo he would of retrofitted the unit and associated pipework and electronics. :D
 
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