Engine failure 2.0tdi 140 cr

Mark Greenall

Mark Greenall

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Hi everyone
I just today purchased a 2010 2.0 tdi cr engine estate. The car has 93,000 miles.
I collected the car which ran fine no issues, travelled 5 miles and heard a tapping noise as I approached a junction. I stopped at the junction and as I set off the car stalled? It would not crank over. When I press the key it does nothing no click, no start but the ignition and dis do come on. I have come here to ask for opinions the car has been recovered by the dealer they seem genuinely shocked as the car has been on several test drives.
I saved for this car for a long time ( not a wealthy man ) and made sure it was a CR engine, with as low mileage as I could afford. I am leaning toward it being seized due to failed oil pump shaft but it's a CR engine and I was sure they were redesigned to avoid this. Gutted is an under statement.
 
Gazwould said:
Engine code ?

No , stop low oil pressure ?
Click to expand...
I can get the engine code shortly as the log book is in my partners car she has gone to work and will be back in an hour.
No oil warning at all. I have a 1.8t audi and am well aware of the problems of oil light and had it happen and switched off immediately and saved the car.
Literally was tap - tap - tap - tap then stalled at junction wouldn't respond after I tried to start. I'd estimate the tapping was less than 10 seconds to 15 seconds. The engine felt cool, no bad smells, when tried to start no warnings or anything just the usual depress clutch to start vehicle. I hope they call me to say it's a ignition fault but deep down I fear the worst.
 
Hopefully just something like total battery cell failure having stood around a while on the forecourt. The oil pump drive shafts were altered from 2010 (and if I had to stick my neck out, from the 4th quarter production period in 2009). There are a lot of cars of this type on the 2nd hand market which haven't had "cambelt" changes - the 2010 handbook simply recommending a change at 133,000 although Audi subsequently suggested 5-years if earlier
 
The belt on my old vectra had only slipped 2 teeth and made the tapping sound. However it would crank over after but not start.
 
Most garage forecourts struggle to keep the batteries up to decent charge. Quite common to test drive a car and find that start/start is switched off as battery below 60% charge. Modern batteries don't like being allowed to totally discharge and I've known them just suddenly and completely fail without warning and sometimes even after a decent run.
 
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Here's hoping it's good news and just a gremlin because I really like the car.
What would the tapping noise be before it shut down? It's sounded metallic!
 
Let us know what caused it can't see it being a battery though as that won't cause it to tap before failure.
 
Update
Dealer just called car is displaying no fault codes. The starter has jammed. They said they will change starter today and update me.
Sounds like 1st steps to diagnosing oil pump failure. On a CR engine God damn my life.
 
I doubt it will be oil pump related,,,, as mentioned earlier your year of car should have the revised 100mm drive shaft for the pump.....could just be a faulty starter....keep us informed
 
666markyboy said:
I doubt it will be oil pump related,,,, as mentioned earlier your year of car should have the revised 100mm drive shaft for the pump.....could just be a faulty starter....keep us informed
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Audi changed the design of the balance shaft module to include the 100mm shaft in Feb 2010. His car is a 2010 car, and if it is an earlier one then chances are it has a 77mm shaft. The fact the redesign came in on engines (not cars) manufactured after Feb 2010 means that you probably wouldn't see cars with the longer shaft appearing until maybe June / July 2010. So if their cars is a "10 plate" it could well have the 77mm shaft, if it's a "60 plate" then probably more likely to have the 100mm shaft.

However as mentioned above, under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 you have 30 days to reject the car if a fault develops and do not have to accept any repair at all if you are not happy with it.

So the ball is in your court and you have the upper hand in terms of whether you want a refund, replacement car or a repair. All your choice.
 
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Consider the fix to your satisfaction , but definitely find out which drive key length you have before you except anything .
 
Hi, after reading the recent comments and having just spoke with and been to the dealer, I have some things to report.
The car is 60 plate produced in September 2010.
Earlier today the dealer called me to say it was 100% the starter that had jammed. I said I would accept the car back only if the tapping noise had stopped and I would want to drive the car for a few hours before I commited to taking it back because I was concerned the culprit was the oil shaft. I asked how they had started it without a starter (he previously told me the starter was being delivered in 2 hours)
He said they "bumped it off" I then asked how if the starter was stuck plus it's a diesel?? He didn't answer me but told me i may be able to collect the car this evening. I said fine.
I was called hour and a half ago by dealer explaining the car had suffered a serious issue and I couldn't collect today I would be called tomorrow at 2 in the afternoon, he also told me if the problem isn't repairable I would get my old car back and refunded tomorrow. I didn't even mention money or my px it was like I was being prepared in advance that the car is wrecked.
I went to the dealer and all they have said is the flywheel may have damaged some internal parts and the engine is being stripped down.
I seriously think it's had oil failure and I asked if it had directly and the reply was we will call you tomorrow...
Really love the car hope I'm being abit suspicious for nothing and it's fixed.
 
Gazwould said:
Consider the fix to your satisfaction , but definitely find out which drive key length you have before you except anything .
Click to expand...
I asked they said some CBAB are 77mm and also told me i shouldn't listen to scare stories because a few out of millions have had a failure.
The bad news is my brother has a 58 plate and I need to break it to him.
 
DMF failed in a dramatic way?

Bumping it wont have helped!!!!
 
Charlie23 said:
Fair enough haha.

So the earlier 170 shafts 2009 - are the smaller more prone to fail?
Click to expand...

Yes, the shorter shafts are more prone to failure because they have less "meat" to bite into and grab, so all the force is concentrated into a small area instead of spread out. Add to that the fact that older shafts and the keyways in the balance shaft itself are made of softer material, and you get the problems we see with the 2.0 TDI engine oil pumps.

The newer revised modules have longer hex keys, hardened hex keys and hardened keyways in the actual balance shaft itself. A bit like the modified shafts you can buy. Audi has basically started putting in the "fix" straight out of the factory in newer cars.

However, who knows...maybe in another 5 years we will start to see these stronger modules begin to fail also, but maybe not.
 
Just an update as I hate to read threads not to find out what happened.
So.. just got off the phone to the dealer.
The car HAS suffered oil pump failure and is uneconomical to repair. They said it's needs in excess of £6000 to repair.
They have offered me a 2011 Golf gt td for a reduced price @£4500 with 87,000 miles which isn't that good of a deal in my mind or money back in full.
I'm taking the refund, but now dare not buy another cr engine either as this was full service history relatively low mileage.
I find it staggering they have allowed this to continue with common rail engines and did it to get rid of the old stock of 77mm shafts.
I really do stress if you own one take it to the dealer and get it done, I have narrowly avoided a 6 grand bill or losing a new to me car. Gutted but relieved at the same time.
 
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Nice to know what happened, but that there confirms that even 60 plate cars didn't receive engines with the 100mm shafts. Might need to go for an 11 plate or a 61 plate to be safe it has the longer 100mm shaft from the factory.
 
I cant believe that they (VAG) would allow it to ruin the reputation by not recalling the cars. They have in South Korea and the states until model 2013.
It's seems they are happy to sell cars that knowingly will fail. Maybe they just don't want them lasting past 100k to sell more new cars. I will need to save a little longer to be able to afford a 61 plate sigh..
Thank you all for help and advice and taking time to reply. Good luck and please just get it checked.
 
Mark Greenall said:
I cant believe that they (VAG) would allow it to ruin the reputation by not recalling the cars. They have in South Korea and the states until model 2013.
It's seems they are happy to sell cars that knowingly will fail. Maybe they just don't want them lasting past 100k to sell more new cars. I will need to save a little longer to be able to afford a 61 plate sigh..
Thank you all for help and advice and taking time to reply. Good luck and please just get it checked.
Click to expand...

Thing is, a recall would cost them maybe £100,000,000....damage to their reputation might be £50,000,000....so better off to just ignore it and lose less money than doing a recall.

In South Korea they were forced to by the government, in the US they tend to have big class action law suits against companies on a daily basis with consumer laws much stronger than ours, so again they would have been forced to do it, not because they wanted to.

Recalls cost LOTS of money and if a ding to your reputation will cost less than the recall, it won't be done unless VOSA or the courts force them to do it like for the emissions scandal.
 
Yeah Audi tend to ignore things until really pushed. Witness the whole oil consumption issue on the 2.0 TFSI (see 36 page thread at the top of this forum).
 
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