Audi A4 2.0 tdi bre oil pump!

Robbyb

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Hi all,

Need some help. My Audi A4 oil pump hex key has worn. My warranty company cover the oil pump and oil pump drive. my warranty company are telling me that the hex key isn't part of the oil pump drive. Is that correct? To me it's very much part of it as it drives the oil pump. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Even proof that it is would be even better.

Many thanks
Rob
 
It's the piece that connects the balance shaft module to the oil pump. If that's worn you can guarantee the oil pump and balance shaft keyways are worn too. The lot will need replacing which isn't a small job. Google 2.0tdi balance shaft repair video and images and you'll see.
I have just bought a delete kit from AW engineering (Darwen) to get rid of the balance shaft totally.
KMB Sheffield do a good repair kit if you want to keep the balance shaft.
Won't be cheap either way you go.

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Thank you for replying. I'm trying to find out if the hex key is part of the oil pump drive. Can it be classed as the drive for the oil pump?


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Yes it is part of the oil pump and balance shaft assembly. The oil pump cannot be driven without it.

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Be warned though if just the hex key is replaced it will very likely break again within a very short time period! make sure the whole assembly gets replaced.

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The balance shaft as well?


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Yes , it's the balance shaft keyway that causes the issue .

Hex drive key outer end connects to oil pump cassette and is secured by a circlip .
 
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Yes the whole lot. The key wears as do the balance shaft and oil pump it connects between. Better safe than sorry two months later.

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New hex key, then tack weld it into the balance shaft.

Warranty wise they're just trying to get out of a 2-3k bill. Yes the oil pump is driven by the hex key.

Is the turbo and vac/tandem ok? These used to fail first just before oil warning light came on.
 
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460115250.png


As you can see from the image above, the hex key (Item 27) goes through the oil pump (Item 25) and into the balance shaft assembly. The hex key is then held in place by a circlip (Item 28)

So what happens is the balance shaft assembly is rotated via the engine crank, this then causes the hex key to rotate and the hex key spins the oil pump to create oil pressure. So the hex key and entire balance shaft assembly IS the oil pump drive!

Without the hex key and balance shaft assembly the oil pump has nothing to bolt onto and therefore nothing to rotate / drive it.

I've just started to do mine last night, only got the bumper off the car at the moment, plan to get more done tonight. I'm taking plenty of pics and video footage in the hopes of doing a full detailed DIY, as there is nothing out there that covers this in full, in detail for the Audi's.

There is info on how to do it on a Passat, but with their transverse engines it is a lot less work than the Audi's which need the subframe lowered to gain access.
 
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New hex key, then tack weld it into the balance shaft.

Warranty wise they're just trying to get out of a 2-3k bill. Yes the oil pump is driven by the hex key.

Is the turbo and vac/tandem ok? These used to fail first just before oil warning light came on.

Hi there

Thank you for the reply. I think that's a great idea. Got the local garage doing it as I don't have a garage to put the car in to do the job. I think I'm gonna go for your option. The turbo and vac/tandem seem to be fine.


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460115250.png


As you can see from the image above, the hex key (Item 27) goes through the oil pump (Item 25) and into the balance shaft assembly. The hex key is then held in place by a circlip (Item 28)

So what happens is the balance shaft assembly is rotated via the engine crank, this then causes the hex key to rotate and the hex key spins the oil pump to create oil pressure. So the hex key and entire balance shaft assembly IS the oil pump drive!

Without the hex key and balance shaft assembly the oil pump has nothing to bolt onto and therefore nothing to rotate / drive it.

I've just started to do mine last night, only got the bumper off the car at the moment, plan to get more done tonight. I'm taking plenty of pics and video footage in the hopes of doing a full detailed DIY, as there is nothing out there that covers this in full, in detail for the Audi's.

There is info on how to do it on a Passat, but with their transverse engines it is a lot less work than the Audi's which need the subframe lowered to gain access.

Hi there

Thank you so much for the detailed reply. If you don't mind I have used what you have said in an email to the warranty company. You explained it very well and they can't deny the logic there. I'm going to get the garage to tac weld the new hex key in. Then when I service the car next I'm going to put a delete balance shaft in.


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Fingers crossed you're successful with the warranty.
Just thinking, If the sump is off and engine open to weld the key.. Would it not be better to do the delete rather than spending more money taking the sump off again?

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Why not do the job properly and get kit 9 from here...

http://www.kmbpartsdirect.co.uk/oil_pumps.html

It is £215 + £125 refundable deposit when you return your old damaged shaft. Next day delivery included! Realistically, 99% of the work is getting the balance shaft unit out of the car and back in as the subframe needs dropped, engine locked into position, etc. So just to it properly and don't half-*** it.

Unless you know someone who is a professional TIG welder that can to a perfect job then I wouldn't risk it.
 
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Im going to take your advice. I'm gonna get the part and get the garage to fit it as it's off. I guess it's for the best.


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460115250.png


As you can see from the image above, the hex key (Item 27) goes through the oil pump (Item 25) and into the balance shaft assembly. The hex key is then held in place by a circlip (Item 28)

So what happens is the balance shaft assembly is rotated via the engine crank, this then causes the hex key to rotate and the hex key spins the oil pump to create oil pressure. So the hex key and entire balance shaft assembly IS the oil pump drive!

Without the hex key and balance shaft assembly the oil pump has nothing to bolt onto and therefore nothing to rotate / drive it.

I've just started to do mine last night, only got the bumper off the car at the moment, plan to get more done tonight. I'm taking plenty of pics and video footage in the hopes of doing a full detailed DIY, as there is nothing out there that covers this in full, in detail for the Audi's.

There is info on how to do it on a Passat, but with their transverse engines it is a lot less work than the Audi's which need the subframe lowered to gain access.

Have you done the DIY?


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Have you done the DIY?


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I am doing the filming and pic taking this weekend. It won't be edited and written up for quite some time yet. At least another 1-2 weeks minimum.
 
I am doing the filming and pic taking this weekend. It won't be edited and written up for quite some time yet. At least another 1-2 weeks minimum.

Ok buddy. Thank you for all your help. The garage said they would fit it for £150. I think that's a good price. I could do it on my drive but I have nothing to hold the steering rack up. Plus would I not need to hold the engine up as well. Keep reading about people using an engine crane.


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Ok buddy. Thank you for all your help. The garage said they would fit it for £150. I think that's a good price. I could do it on my drive but I have nothing to hold the steering rack up. Plus would I not need to hold the engine up as well. Keep reading about people using an engine crane.


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You most certainly do need to support the engine with a support brace. This is NOT a driveway job I will tell you that. You need a garage.

Them quoting £150 makes me think they have never done it on an Audi before. £150 is less than 2 hours labour.

Seeing as they need to remove the bumper, take off the aux belt, remove the crank pulley, lock the engine at TDC, unbolt the air con pump and support the engine, lower the subframe, remove the sump, remove the balance shaft module, open it up and replace the shaft, clean up the sump and engine block of old sealant and then refit everything.

For £150 they are losing money hand over fist.

Not to mention the cost of new oil and all the subframe bolts and balance shaft bolts are torqued to yield so therefore need to be replaced with new ones.

Bolts alone were circa £80 from Audi.

I'm betting they think this will be like the Passats and A3 Audis where the engine is transverse and therefore the sump can be removed in about 30 minutes.

Let me sum it up this way. This is more work than a timing belt replacement. Take the cost / labour of a timing belt replacement then add dropping the subframe, dropping the sump and doing the actual modification to that.

I 100% guarantee that your final bill will be a fair bit more than £150
 
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