Today's dyno results

You know Borehamwood?

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Is Quattro then at the wheel power? Nicely done. I don't have to worry about fuel pumps and fpr 3bar or 4 bar as I'm running lpg which can apparently flow for 300bhp which suits me fine and can be upgraded if I need it, not sure how as yet but will find out when the time calls for it.
 
You need cylinder pressure to bed the rings in, and that requires load. Pussying around for 500miles isnt the way to go IMO. I went out, warmed it up, checked for leaks and then proceeded to do third gear pulls, gradually increasing load and RPM from very light throttle and 3000rpm up thru the range as the miles clocked up. By the time i'd done 20miles i'd reached full throttle and 6500rpm. Took it home, changed the oil, then avoided steady-state running for the next 500 or so miles.

Also, you need more oil-changes whatever you do. Do your first change after 20-30miles, mine came out like metallic paint at that point. then 100 mile changes for the next 500miles.
 
The motor ,1200 bandit, was progressive rev ranges for 500 miles i.e. 4k, 6k, 8k and then red line with part loading 1/4, 1/3, 1/2 , 3/4 and full throttle with also the avoidance of steady state loading. The loading or steadily increasing stress loading of the engine components in particular the con rods is what sets their final strength value. Yes the metal has a young's modulus but what I'm getting at is if the metal isn't stressed properly then when given the beans the shock loading will bend or break the rod. But if the rod is conditioned to that value of stress it will be able to take it when exposed to it regularly.
 
99.9% of running in a modern engine is ring seal. Do it wrong, you get a leaky engine with poor ring seal that makes less power. It'll still drive fine, it'll just be a bit ****.

The abrasive finish on the cylinder walls from the honing process wears away really quickly once the engines running, and thus you need to complete the ring sealing procedure in that narrow window.

Lots of info here:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
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I'm not driving it like a total fairy, just not thrashing it and reving to the limiter, treating the fresh build with some respect. Already done the first change of oil. Can't start the running in yet as it needs an MOT and my man's away for the new year.
 
Well that was a good day. The old girl aced the MOT and the tester was impressed at the job done on her and was surprised when I announced she was almost at 200k. (only shows 20 miles after a hiccup with coding the new ECU cleared the odometer).

On with the running in, watch this space.
 
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Well the miles are building slowly.

Decided to spoil the old girl after spotting a front arm rest on the bay of E and also grabbed some replacement floor mats but the latter are a bit naff so will use them over winter and then buy some nicer ones.
 
Git :p . Think I need to spend a chunk of tomorrow just driving about.

Really hope the fruits of my labour (well mostly my brothers labour, my wallet mind) prove worthwhile.
 
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Unfortunately I've not managed to get too many miles under her belt due to family stuff (which must always come first). Although I couldn't get out properly today I was able to pop outside and do a little tinkering.

Centre arm rest added.
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Porsche oil and coolant caps (new coolant tank will be sourced as it looks crap in the bay now)
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Also managed to repair my broken rear ashtray and sling some new mats into the footwells.
 
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Is she front wheel drive? I take it the dyno readings were wheel figures, were they? I have the same as your previous turbo in the shed and I'm trying to get an idea of how to set her up and how she'll perform. Looking forward to the new turbo developments. Good stuff so far.
 
Yes it's FWD, which isn't of concern as I've used it as a stick to whack plenty of 4WD and RWD cars on track.

And power is at the flywheel. I would expect to drop a good 25-35bhp in transmission losses for an ATW figure. Next time it's on the dyno I'll see if we can get some ATW numbers.
 
The front wheel drives can be good fun. The mate had a mk2 golf with a alh tdi engine in it tuned to 227bhp that would happily beat tuned sierra cosworths. I wanted a Quattro for the family wagon, quicker off the line and all that. It's my own fault really, I have lead feet and do wheel spin out of junctions quite a lot. I have only test drove my Quattro once or twice so far and found the lack of wheel spin of the line very strange . The art of getting the bite right to launch hard without bogging down or burning the clutch out will take a bit of practice.

Looking forward to the dyno runs.
 
Have you got a thread Samuel?

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Have you got a thread Samuel?

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I have it's in the c5 a6 section. Just started. The best title I could think of was 1.8t Quattro build for keeps, think that's right.
 
Well running in has been completed with no issues. My mapper was talking to the ECU on the bench to confirm we could talk to it and write to it. All good.

My RS4 pedal set arrived and my brother set about making a B5/B6 hybrid pedal, has been tweaked a little since the pic.
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Mapping will be taking place tomorrow so I'm a bit nervous as to whether I've wasted my money. Fingers crossed.
 
Sounds good budddddddddy

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Well we were delayed getting going and ran into a couple of small hiccups with the VXR injectors;
1. They don't quite fit the inlet manifold.
2. At over 500cc at 4 bar they flood the engine.

Both hiccups were cured but cost us time and as the dyno was sorted by my brother we had to abandon our progress so the unit could be demonstrated to a perspective buyer.

We are planning to reconvene next week.

Bit gutted but I guess those are the pitfalls of playing about with cars
 
doh, i had the same issue. Probably should have mentioned it! I carefully sanded down (with a power file! :p) the shoulder on the injectors until they fitted.

the size of the injectors shouldnt matter at all, your tuner should simply be adjusting the injector scaling in the ECU to compensate.

Having never even seen the car, Rick managed to send me a base map that fired right up and drove perfectly, with the fuelling within 5% on the VXR injectors and TT maf!

I dropped my fuel to 3 bar, but that was just to give the fuel pump an easier time.
 
Car wouldn't even start with the VXR injectors in, I think at 4 bar they are about 530cc. Time was our enemy today that's all and sadly my work means I can't take any more time off so can't be there next week. :-(

We'll crack it, this project seems to be a 3 steps forward, 2 back. On the bright side I'm learning as we go.
 
All good progress though, at least you've it figured out and a plan in place. I'm doing too much overtime at the minute so only get Friday afternoons and Saturday to work on the car, weather permitting.
 
well that was my point, he should never have tried to start it without fixing the tune first!

The stock injectors are about 200cc. fitting 470cc ones clearly isnt going to work if the ECU still thinks they're 200cc!
 
He didn't, I did as I didn't expect it to flood, I expected it to be very rich and not run great but well enough to back it onto the dyno ready for the mapper. Not the mappers fault at all, my boob entirely.

I have 100% confidence in the chaps, both of which are very well known in the industry. I have been given the dyno as a favour but paying jobs take precedence, only fair.

Watch this space.
 
doh, i had the same issue. Probably should have mentioned it! I carefully sanded down (with a power file! :p) the shoulder on the injectors until they fitted.

the size of the injectors shouldnt matter at all, your tuner should simply be adjusting the injector scaling in the ECU to compensate.

Having never even seen the car, Rick managed to send me a base map that fired right up and drove perfectly, with the fuelling within 5% on the VXR injectors and TT maf!

I dropped my fuel to 3 bar, but that was just to give the fuel pump an easier time.
Stick with the std FPR and only do injectors?

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2283 compressor seems an odd choice, mines got a 2280 and the compressor already massively outflows the hotside. It'll hold 1.5bar to the redline, despite hitting a wall at 5500rpm and losing about 100hp by 6000rpm.
Also unsure what K04 turbine they've used. Mine has the bigger RS6 one (50/45mm). Really hope its not the smaller 50/42 from the RS4/S3!

Certainly be interesting to see what it makes! My worry is your going to end up with only slightly more power, but a lot more lag compared with your old S3 based turbo.

Evil: I dropped the pressure to save me changing the fuel pump. As with all pumps, the flow rate drops drastically as the pressure increases. With a 4 bar regulator and 1.5 bar of boost, the pump is having to produce 5.5bar of fuel pressure. With the 3 bar regulator, at the same boost, the pumps only having to deliver 4.5bar, and thus can flow a lot more fuel. I also dislike having the pressure unnecessarily high.
 
2283 compressor seems an odd choice, mines got a 2280 and the compressor already massively outflows the hotside. It'll hold 1.5bar to the redline, despite hitting a wall at 5500rpm and losing about 100hp by 6000rpm.
Also unsure what K04 turbine they've used. Mine has the bigger RS6 one (50/45mm). Really hope its not the smaller 50/42 from the RS4/S3!

Certainly be interesting to see what it makes! My worry is your going to end up with only slightly more power, but a lot more lag compared with your old S3 based turbo.

Evil: I dropped the pressure to save me changing the fuel pump. As with all pumps, the flow rate drops drastically as the pressure increases. With a 4 bar regulator and 1.5 bar of boost, the pump is having to produce 5.5bar of fuel pressure. With the 3 bar regulator, at the same boost, the pumps only having to deliver 4.5bar, and thus can flow a lot more fuel. I also dislike having the pressure unnecessarily high.
I'll have to bare this in mind, C20lets for the ko4 should suffice shouldn't it?

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for the 064? nope, need something bigger like the VXR's for that much power. The LET injectors are probably near their limit somewhere around 280hp (at a guess)
 
He did say it was RS6 based. The dyno may be free Tuesday for a while so if the mapper can fit that in we'll hopefully be going for a take 2.
 
Hopefully

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Oranoco was the mapper able to fully tune the car?

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K03-005 turbo has the smallest turbine wheel of the k03/04 family, in 45 ex 36mm. It would be a bit tight to machine a rs6 turbine wheel in to it would it not?. The k04-015 has a 46/42 turbine wheel which should provide less of a restrictive path for exhaust flow over k03. It may be possible to get away with less of a clip on the turbine wheel. Is there not a turbine housing anywhere that will take a k04-023 turbine wheel that will fit to our longitudinal engines without having to cut and weld flanges on to manifolds or using adaptor plates?
 

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