Phew, that's a relief!

mind me asking how much the parts came to Jimbo.King?
 
thanks for the response Jimbo.King

will deffo be looking to get this done at some point..

mines made the rattle since i bought it.. thought it was a oil circulation thing.. obviously not
As a job lot they came to £167 "trade".
 
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Good job Jimbo! Gonna get started on mine once I've done my swirl flap issue repair.
 
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It's no wonder we get the odd growl. This engine has more slippers than a Cinderella museum.
4 chains and 4 tensioners. My god!
What a piece of engineering!!
If only they put in in the other way round!!!
...and to think as kids we thought our 5 gear racers were complicated..

Fantastic, I love it. Until it goes wrong.

Nice one Jimbo makes it all come to life in glorious technicolour. FAB


Marty:blackrs4: Cant stop smiling :laugh:
 
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for this write-up. Just bought all the bits from TPS for £130 delivered and shall hopefully be doing this weekend...
 
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Thanks to this thread I have attempted this job today. And so far seems to have cure the death rattle. I would however like to point out make sure you set aside a day as I ran into few small problems mainly lack of tools to fit the cramped space. But after a very stressful day it's done and im chuffed to bits the sound has gone. Thanks to OP for the info
 
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Hi I am just having a read of this thread before attempting to do this job myself next weeken. I cant seem to open the images that go with EddyP's fantastic write up. Has anyonle else got some photos they took during the job?
I also dont have the engine locking kit, Ive read that the jobv is still possible if the chain is cable tied to the sprocket? has anyone got a photo of this? would anyone who bought the locking kit of ebay please post an item number or a link to the correct one I would need to do the job on my 2005 a4.
I am a HGV mechanic by trade an fix engines much bigger than this, the thought of everything being so small and fiddly is so daunting! I suppose its only nuts and bolts! Just these are my nuts and bolts and not on a wagon at work haha so theres a little more pressure here!
For some reason the ones on EddyPs write up dont open, even on my PC.
Any advice/tips/photos would be greatly appreciated, thankyou.
 
Hears a pic of mine when i had the engine out & did all the chains, may be of help to you.

I still have both top tensioners which have done under 500 miles, long story but i changed both top ones & it still rattled so did the lot, that comes as a complete kit so the first two i used are surplus.









 
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mine rattles initially from start up for about 10-15 seconds, but only when cold. I have had someone start the car while im under the bonnet listenening for where the rattling is coming from. It sounds like the drivers side top tensioner, so I am just going to change that 1 with the engine in situe for nopw and if it doesnt cure it then Il get saving up ha!
 
I probably exaggerated it's more like 5 and it's gone after 10. It only does it when it's cold once up to temp can switch it off n start it up n the noise is gone completely
 
My theory is it's lack of oil pressure, the tensioners are a hydrolic ram worked by oil pressure, this oil pressure is being lost when the engine cools so I'm wondering if there's an oil gallery in the cam shaft somewhere that may be partially blocked thus when on start up there's not enough oil pressure to open the tensioner, mine only did it when it was warm never on cold start.
 
Evening all.. New on here and i thought would add a new part to this tread as i have 2 of these tensioner jobs ahead. Me and a mate of mine both have 2007 a4 avants with 3.0 tdi v6 lumps. Both are having the rattle noise ect and funny enough both sit on around 130k with perfect audi service history. We are going to be undertaking the right hand bank tensioner replacement, well I say us I am going to do both!! Just ordered the lock kit even tho only need the 3 required part from it. Ordering two right hand bank tensioners, 2 x the 3 new bolts and 2x cam cover gasket via tps tomorrow.. Anyone had any experience of the job more resently?? Any extra advise. I know I need to by Allen key hex set for access and a decent inpection mirror to view the tensioner better ect.. But any more information would be appreciated. God I am dreading ripping two of these apart to repair but on the up side looks like a small price to pay if we get lucky and is the dreaded right hand banks that are the issue.. We have ask a garage local who is great but being the full cam change job on the book is a 15 hour job engine out ect hate to imagine what a bill would be.. kits 600 plus 15 hours labour... Make me feel sick :( wish us luck . Will repost
 
just bumping this thread knowing it's a bit old, but are both tensioners; left and right, the same price?
 
Hi chaps. When attempting this do you just lock of the cams with the pins or do I lock something else off. the initial write up mentions crank lock?
Also has any body got a more in depth write up and pictures of how to rotate the enginevitable for the cams to come into position to lock them off with the pins please? Cheers
 
68000 mate. Low mileage for the year. Booked it in for a health check with Audi. They said it is the tensioner and advised that I changed it. Especially because it's a 2004 which has the old design tensioner on it. Paid the money for the peace of mind.
 
Hi All, sorry to resurrect this thread, can anyone advise which engine lock kit is needed? It looks like from earlier pictures you can lock the cams with what looks like an M10 bolt. Do you really need to lock the engine when just changing the tensioner?

Cheers, Mark
 
Personally I would and I would check the timing whilst you are at it. You need a crank lock pin, cam lock pin and cam sprocket adjuster. Also some spline sockets.

Fleabay sell timing kits for VAG diesels (they all use the same) for about £30
 
Camberley, I travel up to Leamington Spa every Thursday, so if you are interested could meet you some where by high Wycombe?

PM me