Another new issue, 3.0 V6 TDi

chrisw880

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For the past week, the car has lost all power with no EML/glowplug or any other warning lights that could indicate a problem. Even switching off/switching on doesnt always cure the issue. It feels like the car has less power than it does when in limp mode as well. Was thinking maybe faulty actuator or turbo issue?
 
Before you do anything, have you had it scanned for DTC's?
 
Blocked DPF possibly. You need to check the car for fault codes as even if there are no lights codes can still be stored, however something would normally be displayed if it was a serious issue.
Somebody with VAG-COM to check the DPF pressure readings and see what they are showing to see if the DPF was blocked.
It's no good guessing. If you have an Android phone think of getting one of those cheap £5 bluetooth dongles and Carista.
 
Had the car scanned, no apparent fault codes. So going to get a mate to do a live scan to see if its a sensor issue
 
Blocked DPF possibly. You need to check the car for fault codes as even if there are no lights codes can still be stored, however something would normally be displayed if it was a serious issue.
Somebody with VAG-COM to check the DPF pressure readings and see what they are showing to see if the DPF was blocked.
It's no good guessing. If you have an Android phone think of getting one of those cheap £5 bluetooth dongles and Carista.

Do you know of any pipes that are prone to splitting or failing on these engines (ideally pipes before the turbo?).
My Dads work colleague suggested that this could be the cause
 
There's nothing particularly common that fails on this engine that would cause the issue you have. If it was a boost pipe split you would probably be able to hear it.
 
Had the car scanned with VCDS, one fault that come up (caused be me disconnecting the sensor) was P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High, but didnt return after clearing the fault. Another scan came up clear with no fault codes, yet the lack of power is still there
 
Can you see if the turbo actuator arm is moving when you turn on the ignition or open the throttle
 
Does it do a full sweep move you can test by hand with the engine off if the vnt is moving freely if the vanes aren't fully opening then you won't get boost i had the same issue with mine the actuator wasn't opening up fully
 
When I had the actuator off to replace, it had free movement on the turbo side
 
Did you get the actuator recalabrated with the tool or did you put it back on the witness marks
 
Ok could well be turbo but could have been your old actuator was faulty did you get the new 1 set up with the vag tool
 
New has been set up, car has boost for a few mins before it dies and gives no power
 
That is a weird problem sounds electrical and it's faulting but not giving a code out was the cable in good condition that goes over the block mine had perished the rubber and was shorting out
 
That is a weird problem sounds electrical and it's faulting but not giving a code out was the cable in good condition that goes over the block mine had perished the rubber and was shorting out

Will have another look, but looked in good condition when I changed the actuators over
 
Do you have access to VCDS to do any logging of engine parameters ? .
You could blindly change parts until you come across the issue, but it's better to try and identify whether it's a fuel fault an air issue or exhaust / DPF blockage. What are you using to check for fault codes ? .
 
Do you have access to VCDS to do any logging of engine parameters ? .
You could blindly change parts until you come across the issue, but it's better to try and identify whether it's a fuel fault an air issue or exhaust / DPF blockage. What are you using to check for fault codes ? .

I had a member from here scan for faults using VCDS, didnt get round to checking engine parameters
 
Bit of an update, took the car down to the garage and they diagnosed a faulty MAF, changed it and so far so good :)
 
Glad you got it sorted. Do you by any chance use a performance air filter such as a K & N as if these are oiled too much this can find it's way onto the MAF sensor and screw it up.
Not a common fault with these but anything can fail eventually. You would have seen that the MAF was reading low if you knew what you were looking for with VCDS.
 
Glad you got it sorted. Do you by any chance use a performance air filter such as a K & N as if these are oiled too much this can find it's way onto the MAF sensor and screw it up.
Not a common fault with these but anything can fail eventually. You would have seen that the MAF was reading low if you knew what you were looking for with VCDS.

Car runs standard air filter, and appears to have killed off the replacement MAF (I'm hoping it was a faulty unit (car runs better with it disconnected))
 
Car will usually run better with a MAF disconnected if it's faulty. Strange that the replacement has failed, was it a genuine part or a Chinese copy?.
 
Car will usually run better with a MAF disconnected if it's faulty. Strange that the replacement has failed, was it a genuine part or a Chinese copy?.

Update regarding the car, it looks like the MAF may not have failed as first thought. However the issue regarding power loss is looking more of a mystery at the moment (will hopefully find out more tomorrow afternoon). The car now has no power regardless if the MAF is connected or disconnected, all the sensors (as far as I know) are working as normal but something is causing the turbo to cut out (turbo is in good condition, no strange noises etc)
 
I would look into a blocked DPF. You get low airflow readings because of the restriction in the exhaust. You need to check the exhaust back pressure.