Just ordered this for mine as im getting very bad interference on full bose thanks for the tip
Android RNS-E
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tony mc
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no probs mate, took me a few weeks to finally sort it out 100% noise free,
i was over the moon when it worked first time no messing, just hoped to save anyone else the chew on.
I am having trouble with the radio so at the min im using internet radio which doesnt bother me to much as long as i have internet ☺. Any suggestions would be kindly received...i have 1 fakra and 1 antenna cable but if i plug the antenna in i get nothing and if i plug the fakra into the adapter they sent me which has a blue cable to connect to power im assuming that doesny work either
I did it to the remote cable thinking that should be ok am i right in thinking this?
tony mc
Registered User
are you sure your not trying the gps antenna ? i know it sounds daft but my aerial has 2 fakra ?
You might need to check with a multimeter - some of the power cables seems to have lower voltage than others when I checked. The radio antenna box needs to get the right voltage as it is active not passive antenna. But even when I hadn't connected up the power cable I was getting quite a few stations. I had dual fakra and basically I think one is fm only and one is fm/am or something like that.
Yeah, I was well chuffed when I worked it out. I now leave bluetooth on, when I get in the car wifi hotspot gets activated, screen lock disabled, bluetooth volume set to a certain level and a few other things. When the bluetooth disconnects it turns on normal wifi and reverses the rest of the stuff. Just trying to map my speak button to google voice, so I've got proper voice dialling, can even leave my phone in my pocket at that point.
I have a single fakra and an antenna i didnt have gps on oem so its definitely not that and ive connected my new gps up and that works so not that either. Thanks for the idea though ☺
For anyone else who is considering using Tasker for automating an Android phone's hotspot functionality, here is a link to an exported Tasker profile that will make the hotspot turn on/off if a BT connection to a specific head unit's BT adapter is active: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0oYo-bM6n9kSUlTUEhUbXNxNDg&usp=sharing
You just have to change the 'name' parameter to match the name of your car's BT adapter once the profile I provided is imported.
To import the profile you first download it to your phone (will likely end up in 'Downloads'), then from the main Tasker menu press and hold on 'Profiles' > 'Import' > Select the profile file from where you downloaded it. This will load the profile into Tasker:
Once the profile is in place, tap on the 'Connected to Car' state in the 'Car Wifi profile you just imported and change the 'Name' to match the exact name of your car's BT adapter. You can use the magnifying glass to select from any paired devices you already have (You can even specify the HU's hardware address to make it really specific) :
Once done, Tasker will automatically enable and disable the phone's Hotspot functionality, which will allow your head unit to connect to the internet via your phone.
Note - obviously make sure that the whole tethering setup works manually first before doing this. i.e. Your HU should already be able to connect to your phone's hotspot if it is enabled manually.
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Just ordered one and will test it when it gets here, I have got rid of 98% of white noise and only hear it when i'm not playing any music other than that my system sound great.
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Do you remember that I bought a PC1-601 (hi/lo converter) for my rears speakers, I installed the device and the sound from my rears was a little more higher but not too much, nothing in comparison with the original head unit, I was very disappointed, so, searching in internet I found this device:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Cache...716824?hash=item4d3f412958:g:usEAAOSw~OVWuTei
Cache Cloc+d is a line converter from low source impedance to high voltage output (10Vrms). Once installed the sound from my rears speakers have changed completely. Much higher than the original ConcertIII, better bass and middle range sound and with no distortion, and away better than the PC1-601 converter. Now my configuration in combination whit Poweramp makes the sound quality awesome. I recommended this device
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Docurley, how do you change tracks while you're using Waze?, is It necessary to change de firmware?. Is there any App that can do that. My head unit has the buttons >>I I<< that allow me to change track while Poweramp is open but I can’t use them while using Waze or Sygic and Poweramp is in the background. I don't have multifunction steering wheel.
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That's great, thanks for sharing your findings on Bose setups with the Android HU. Would you mind stating everything that you use for your setup please?
Do you remember that I bought a PC1-601 (hi/lo converter) for my rears speakers, I installed the device and the sound from my rears was a little more higher but not too much, nothing in comparison with the original head unit, I was very disappointed, so, searching in internet I found this device:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Cache...716824?hash=item4d3f412958:g:usEAAOSw~OVWuTei
Cache Cloc+d is a line converter from low source impedance to high voltage output (10Vrms). Once installed the sound from my rears speakers have changed completely. Much higher than the original ConcertIII, better bass and middle range sound and with no distortion, and away better than the PC1-601 converter. Now my configuration in combination whit Poweramp makes the sound quality awesome. I recommended this device
Sweet thanks for the information, do you have Bose or non-Bose? Can you list everything that you use for your setup please?
Cheers fellas, just seeing what I need when it comes to getting the Android HU for my Bose system.
I don't have Bose system, but the setup for Bose and non-Bose system is very similar. Both configurations have an amplifier for the rears speakers, so that in both system you need a hi/low converter.
Cool thanks mate.
Excluding additional features at the moment, so just focusing purely on music and sound quality, I've currently got down that I need the following in order to eradicate all interference/white noise and improve the rear speakers:
- Poweramp App
- Cache Audio cLOC+D Line Converter
- RCA Noise Filters/Suppressors
- Ground Loop Isolater
- FM Ariel Adapter
dieleco, this does look interesting. My Xtrons HiLo has boosted my rears to a fine level. Yes prob not quite what they were but I feel that I am missing base etc and so far haven't been able to get much out of Viper (need to uninstall and try again I think).Do you remember that I bought a PC1-601 (hi/lo converter) for my rears speakers, I installed the device and the sound from my rears was a little more higher but not too much, nothing in comparison with the original head unit, I was very disappointed, so, searching in internet I found this device:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Cache...716824?hash=item4d3f412958:g:usEAAOSw~OVWuTei
Cache Cloc+d is a line converter from low source impedance to high voltage output (10Vrms). Once installed the sound from my rears speakers have changed completely. Much higher than the original ConcertIII, better bass and middle range sound and with no distortion, and away better than the PC1-601 converter. Now my configuration in combination whit Poweramp makes the sound quality awesome. I recommended this device
So does go inbetween the preamps outs and your rear amp connections, or the direct HU rear outputs and the connections to the rear amp?
The device goes between the preamps outs and the rear amp connections. It is a hi/lo converter, but you also need a +12V source and GND connection. You won't regret buying it.
tony mc
Registered User
ok matey i'll try my best to make it readable lol,
right i have FULL BOSE set up in my a4, all i have at the stereo loom going from the quadlock is 4 wires that send signal to the amp for each corner of the car, i had tried the hi lo converters and they never did a thing to make it better. so after a few more days i got onto the ground loop isolators, bought 2 of them, they worked to get rid of the alternator whine but i still had a loud buzz when i put my lights on. so back to the drawing board.
i then spotted this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252307253937?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT on ebay and thought sod it i'll give it a whirl, i wired 4 rca plugs to the amp signal wires going to the amp from the quadlock and cut the speaker cables out of the harness that came with the HU, plugged in the ebay gizmo and what do you know it works, no buzz with the lights on no alternator whine happy days.
so what i have now is the quad core android HU, plus the thing off ebay and thats it, hi lo converters and ground isolators are now in the shed collecting dust.
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Spot on thanks for writing that up bud, much appreciated.
I can't see the Bose system being different across the Audi range but I know a lot of people were complaining about the S3's rear speakers being quiet when changing to the Android HU as a lower voltage or whatever is sent to them.
What's the quality of your rear speakers like? In addition to the RCA Noise Filters off ebay, is all you're running software wise Poweramp?
This does make some sense to be, but I haven't really thought about car amps stuff - but using the preamps is possibly giving greater quality to the speakers. Maybe this with a cheap amp thrown on the fronts would also be a big improvement?
I attach a picture of Cloc+d setup for Xtrons head units.
My car doesn’t have Bose system, but the rears speakers have a preamp like cars with Bose, so the setup for the rears speakers must be the same. I don’t know if Bose system has also a preamp for the fronts speakers, in that case you’d need a second Cloc+d, but I’m not sure how Bose system works.
In my car, because my fronts don’t have a preamp, the head unit is capable enough to feed them at a level so high that can cause distortion. It is not necessary to install an amp for them.
The big issue with cloc+d is the space; there isn’t enough room in the hed unit socket to allocate it.
tony mc
Registered User
yes mate that's all i have and every speaker works with the same volume, i was lead to believe there was 3 or 4 different set ups audi use ? full bose, half bose and none bose and rear amp'd none bose ???
as in full bose all speakers are amp'd, half bose only the rears are amp'd and not sure about none bose set ups ???
i could be wrong though matey.
I didn't realise that there was several different Bose setups! Pretty sure when I checked in the leaflet/manual I had full Bose but will have a look again later.
When it comes to getting the HU I'm just going to get the RCA Noise Filters you purchased and see how I get on before buying any Line Converters or Ground Loop Isolators etc.
Thanks again!
tony mc
Registered User
tony mc
Registered User
if its full bose the ones i've circled in yellow on the pic all go to the bose amp, then from the amp back out to all the speakers
Someone told me that a full bose system will have bose on front and rear speakers if you havnt got bose on the front speakers you apparently have only rear amp bose system and non bose will obviously not show bose anywhere.....but may be wrong hope this helps
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You will need to do the firmware update which codes in the track change knob to work in WAZE, like yours mine would not work on the stock ROM
My car doesn't have Bose system but it does have an amp for the rears speakers, maybe the Bose system has an amp and speakers of higher quality
What firmware did you install?. My problem is that my xtrons head unit comes with a RKPX3 CPU chip quad core, and I don’t know what kind of ROM/firmware It needs. Last week I tried with a Malaysk Rom for RK3188 (with the right resolution) and it didn’t work. Searching in internet I’ve realized that nobody has the RKPX3 processor.
Nice one mate cheers for that, very helpful.
Cool that's handy to know ta. I forgot to check yesterday but I know the front speakers definitely have Bose on them so I will check the rears on lunch.
to identify bose you can confirm with VCDS.
module 47 - sound system. If part number ends in a B then it's bose. eg 8P3 035 382 B
I've now finally got all my head unit functions working, sound is good enough etc. just been having a nightmare with actual physical fit. They aint great - my metal tabs have been bent beyond use so now i'm running without em!
TIP for installation. it's well worth removing the hazard surround trim and the HVAC unit (it just pulls forward). This allows you to get your hand under the stereo and maneuver wires/hi-lo adapters/DAB/canbus boxes etc so they sit below the stereo rather than behind it - making it easier to push the stereo back in to place.
get EVERYTHING working before inserting into the DIN hole, as most of these cheap HUs are a pain not only to get sitting evenly, but to remove! can quite easily end up scratching the stereo around the key holes, scratching screen on gear lever while messing with the cables at the rear. Leave the screen protector film on too until 100% happy all is fine
module 47 - sound system. If part number ends in a B then it's bose. eg 8P3 035 382 B
I've now finally got all my head unit functions working, sound is good enough etc. just been having a nightmare with actual physical fit. They aint great - my metal tabs have been bent beyond use so now i'm running without em!
TIP for installation. it's well worth removing the hazard surround trim and the HVAC unit (it just pulls forward). This allows you to get your hand under the stereo and maneuver wires/hi-lo adapters/DAB/canbus boxes etc so they sit below the stereo rather than behind it - making it easier to push the stereo back in to place.
get EVERYTHING working before inserting into the DIN hole, as most of these cheap HUs are a pain not only to get sitting evenly, but to remove! can quite easily end up scratching the stereo around the key holes, scratching screen on gear lever while messing with the cables at the rear. Leave the screen protector film on too until 100% happy all is fine
Got my new android HU this week, and i love it.
i only had to connect 1 Hi/Lo converter because i dont have Bose and only the rears are amped.
after rooting the device and installing ViperFX the sound quality is pretty good.
Boot up time is also pretty "fast", 15-20 sec i think
had to remove a small bit of plastic on top of the HU because the cup holder wouldnt open anymore, i removed on 1 or 2 mm i think, you cant see it once installed
and have to sort out the radio because i dont think i have the right cables for it..
i only had to connect 1 Hi/Lo converter because i dont have Bose and only the rears are amped.
after rooting the device and installing ViperFX the sound quality is pretty good.
Boot up time is also pretty "fast", 15-20 sec i think
had to remove a small bit of plastic on top of the HU because the cup holder wouldnt open anymore, i removed on 1 or 2 mm i think, you cant see it once installed
and have to sort out the radio because i dont think i have the right cables for it..
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good work. how's the fit in the dash?
for radio you'll need a fakra adapter. the one i bought only fit the fm not am connector but don't need am anyway! it'll be a powered adapter, blue wire will need adding to your loom. my loom had a spare wire for it so was simple enough.
been struggling with adding mobile data to mine. bought a huawei usb dongle and a three sim. turns out three dont allow their regular SIMs to run in a dongle/tablet so i've resorted to tethering to a cheap android phone. issue with that is battery soon drains with the car off - have added "tasker" app to the phone to only have wifi tethering when the phone is charging, will test it later.
couldnt figure out how to tether over USB, dont think the HU sees it.
for radio you'll need a fakra adapter. the one i bought only fit the fm not am connector but don't need am anyway! it'll be a powered adapter, blue wire will need adding to your loom. my loom had a spare wire for it so was simple enough.
been struggling with adding mobile data to mine. bought a huawei usb dongle and a three sim. turns out three dont allow their regular SIMs to run in a dongle/tablet so i've resorted to tethering to a cheap android phone. issue with that is battery soon drains with the car off - have added "tasker" app to the phone to only have wifi tethering when the phone is charging, will test it later.
couldnt figure out how to tether over USB, dont think the HU sees it.
Yeah, HU will tether via wifi hotspot only or via a dongle with a data plan sim card. Remember that Three tethering is free up to 4GB per month after which it costs more money or you need a data add-on. 3G Data Watchdog app on the HU can help keep track of data used.
Fit in de dash after removing some plastic on top of the HU is pretty good.
Im comming from the concert 2 so i didnt have the fakra connector. Will look for an adapter. I think i need something like this i think
Im comming from the concert 2 so i didnt have the fakra connector. Will look for an adapter. I think i need something like this i think
If you sort out the radio let us no please ive just put in a similar unit and cant seem to figure it out im using internet radio atm but its a bit of a ball ache
So does this aerial adaptor allow for both the fakra and coax aerial connections to be fitted?
