Painting hubs.

steeve

steeve

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Just a word of warning under no circumstances ever paint any wheel mounting surface, this can cause the wheel bolts to slacken off with potential fatal consequences


I've painted the hubs on the last half a dozen cars or so. Sadly manufacturers don't provide a coating that lasts very long. I think they don't consider rusty hubs an issue. But they can look unsightly.

This is just from my view, I'm sure others have a different regime.

I've generally used silver Hammerite smooth finish paint. It's easy to apply and had great corrosion resisting properties.

Hammerite Product Range

Most if not all Halfords stock some of the Hammerite range.

I usually paint the hubs before they go rusty but apparently the paint can be applied to rusty surfaces. But why wait?

Carefully remove the wheel, be careful on the S3 if you have 18" wheels as there's not a lot of clearance past the calipers and it is easy to cause a chip or two to the inside of the wheel.

I usually give the area to be painted a rub over with some fine wet and dry then a wipe with white spirits to clean it. Don't worry too much about a little paint on the braking surface it will be wiped off first time you apply the brake. Obviously try and avoid great dollops of paint!

Hammerite dries very quickly so its only a few minutes before you can safely refit the wheel.

But before you do it's worth applying a little copper slip or similar to the wheel mounting spigot on the hub. BUT NOT ON THE WHEEL CLAMPING SURFACE! These go rusty quite quickly and the wheel can oxidise too making life difficult if you're stuck at the side of the road with a puncture and your wheel just does not want to part company with the rest of the car! The rear hubs were already showing a little corrosion on the wheel mounting spigot and my car only has around sixty miles on the clock.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel bolts, it's a 120 Nm or 88 pound feet.

The following pictures might help any one who was unsure about attempting to paint their hubs.
http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/styles/AnimatedArena/attach/jpg.gif
http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/styles/AnimatedArena/attach/jpg.gif
http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/styles/AnimatedArena/attach/jpg.gif

For some reason I don't seem to be able to order the pictures.......
But first one is after painting, second one is hub before paint, third is hub before paint but with wheel on and the last one is wheel refitted after painting.


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Nice guide thank you, slightly jealous of those calipers though...
 
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RYuill said:
Did you just do the one coat?
Click to expand...

One coat is fine, I've never had any hubs rust. Perhaps if you're covering rust up or if you've had to sand down to bare metal another coat might help.

But as the original coating is silver it covers easily.
 
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Perfect - this is exactly what I want to do!!

Couple of questions - was the wheel off long enough that you used axel stands and did you paint up to the bolt holes?
 
Pulp84 said:
Perfect - this is exactly what I want to do!!

Couple of questions - was the wheel off long enough that you used axel stands and did you paint up to the bolt holes?
Click to expand...

Doesn't take long so I did it while it was on the trolley jack, under no circumstances paint the wheel mounting surface. Painting the wheel mounting face could result in the wheels coming loose as the paint creeps.
 
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steeve said:
Doesn't take long so I did it while it was on the trolley jack, under no circumstances paint the wheel mounting surface. Painting the wheel mounting face could result in the wheels coming loose as the paint creeps.
Click to expand...

So did you just go up to the edge of the face? I guess there needs to be a small overlap?
 
Pulp84 said:
So did you just go up to the edge of the face? I guess there needs to be a small overlap?
Click to expand...

Never....................... any paint on the mounting face will creep and cause the tension in the wheel bolts to reduce. The coating on the hub faces is Audi and extremely thin.
 
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OK got it.

I have some small rust spots where the hub meets the alloy centre hence my questions regarding a slight lip.
 
Pulp84 said:
OK got it.

I have some small rust spots where the hub meets the alloy centre hence my questions regarding a slight lip.
Click to expand...

Its OK to use some copper grease or similar just on the spigot that engages into the wheel centre. But never any paint or grease on the wheel clamping surfaces.
 
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Essential job in my book.

My local dealership almost every car on the forecourt suffers from rusty callipers or hubs.
 
Its a very quick and simple job do that will last the life of the car.

BUT if you're not used to doing jobs like this and you're not sure please just ask rather than jumping in feet first. I'm happy to advise.
 
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Thabks for the guide Steve! I'll be doing this the weekend after getting my car along with spacers and sealing the wheels!
 
One final question......is their enough ground clearance on the S3 for a normal jack or do you need a low profile version?

My last jack seems to have gone walkies when I moved house so need to get another. Decisions decisions on a new one.....
 
One final question......is their enough ground clearance on the S3 for a normal jack or do you need a low profile version?

My last jack seems to have gone walkies when I moved house so need to get another. Decisions decisions on a new one.....
 
J6YAK said:
A normal jack will be fine mate.
Click to expand...

My old standard jack will not go under my S3, I have a low line jack which is great. So if you are looking to buy a jack go for the low one then it works in all cases and you wont end up running onto a wooden block first.
 
steeve said:
My old standard jack will not go under my S3, I have a low line jack which is great. So if you are looking to buy a jack go for the low one then it works in all cases and you wont end up running onto a wooden block first.
Click to expand...

My jack is quite old right enough, I guess if I were to buy a new one now I would also get a low one. Good point Steeve.
 
I hate to be the voice of doom on such a useful thread (!), but .....

If you are tempted to apply Copper Slip on the wheel bolts (as is common practice):

The Audi Workshop Manual specifically warns against lubricating or applying any anti seize compound on wheel bolts. It says that the torque values given are for dry assembly.

In normal engineering practice, torque values are normally stated for dry assembly, unless otherwise stated.

If you lubricate or apply anti-seize compounds prior to tightening/torquing up - the friction and thus the final torque value is different as the thread of the fastener engages. If you use a dry torque value on a lubricated fastener, you will end up tightening it to a higher value than specified.

This link show the difference between dry and lubricated torque values:https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension Chart for Metric Fasteners.pdf

Now, in the real world, we all know of garages and folk who have applied Copper Slip to countless nuts and bolts, including wheel nuts and bolts. I've even done so in the past, and will probably continue to do so in non critical applications, where the importance of being able to undo a fastener is more important than its absolute torque value and tightness.

But the reason why we don't seem to have an abundance of wheel bolt failures out in the real world is that there is a large safety margin built in the design. Plus the fact that these days most cars have alloy wheels that will give if over tightened, rather than deforming the steel bolt.

That's not to say that we should be abusing this safety margin! Next time you're at a motorway junction roundabout, have a look in the gutter and you might spot a few (normally from trucks) sheared wheel bolts. I've seen a few Audi wheel bolts that have been over tightened and displayed signs of necking.

So - the engineering advice (and Audi's Workshop Manual) is to assemble and torque wheel bolts in a clean and dry condition. Without anti-seize or lubrication.I know some folk will insist that their grand pappys have been doing bolts up since 1845 with Copper Slip and never had a days cold etc., but it's best to make your own choice in knowledge of all the facts :)
 
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veeeight said:
I hate to be the voice of doom on such a useful thread (!), but .....

If you are tempted to apply Copper Slip on the wheel bolts (as is common practice):

The Audi Workshop Manual specifically warns against lubricating or applying any anti seize compound on wheel bolts. It says that the torque values given are for dry assembly.

In normal engineering practice, torque values are normally stated for dry assembly, unless otherwise stated.

If you lubricate or apply anti-seize compounds prior to tightening/torquing up - the friction and thus the final torque value is different as the thread of the fastener engages. If you use a dry torque value on a lubricated fastener, you will end up tightening it to a higher value than specified.

This link show the difference between dry and lubricated torque values:https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension Chart for Metric Fasteners.pdf

Now, in the real world, we all know of garages and folk who have applied Copper Slip to countless nuts and bolts, including wheel nuts and bolts. I've even done so in the past, and will probably continue to do so in non critical applications, where the importance of being able to undo a fastener is more important than its absolute torque value and tightness.

But the reason why we don't seem to have an abundance of wheel bolt failures out in the real world is that there is a large safety margin built in the design. Plus the fact that these days most cars have alloy wheels that will give if over tightened, rather than deforming the steel bolt.

That's not to say that we should be abusing this safety margin! Next time you're at a motorway junction roundabout, have a look in the gutter and you might spot a few (normally from trucks) sheared wheel bolts. I've seen a few Audi wheel bolts that have been over tightened and displayed signs of necking.

So - the engineering advice (and Audi's Workshop Manual) is to assemble and torque wheel bolts in a clean and dry condition. Without anti-seize or lubrication.I know some folk will insist that their grand pappys have been doing bolts up since 1845 with Copper Slip and never had a days cold etc., but it's best to make your own choice in knowledge of all the facts :)
Click to expand...

I should have mentioned this but mistakenly thought every one would be aware of it? Never apply lubricant of any kind to wheel nuts/bolts the reduced friction will result in a higher than designed tensile load taking the bolt or stud past the elastic limit meaning they will elongate and come loose or even shear.

A 'smear' of Copper slip or similar can safely be used on the wheel locating spigot only.
 
Going to do mine next weekend smooth rite on its way from Amazon. Noticed the rust after 3k miles.
 
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I did my hubs with Hammerite last summer and some of it is starting to flake off. I only put one coat on and I don't think it was enough considering I jetwash the wheels once a week.

I'm planning to paint them again in the next few weeks and I suspect I will be putting a couple of layers on.

Otherwise, it's a good thing to do as it keep the hubs looking clean and new.
 
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^^ might go for two coats if the drying time between coats is only half hour - could alternate between front and rear wheel quite easily. Cheers for the heads up.
 
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Car will be on a flat surface and wheel that's on the ground chocked so can I have the box in N with the EPB off so that I can spin the hub round thus keeping the paint brush away from the caliber ?
 
Well I managed to do mine over the last couple of evenings. I was a bit shocked at how much corrosion there was on a 3 month old car .......

H6KZwOlJ


I sanded it all down and gave it a thick coat of hammerite inside the hub flange and gave it a good coating of copper grease on the outside diameter which contacts the wheel.

Glad to have done this as I had no idea that the locking wheel nut key was in a tool roll on the right side compartment of the boot space (on a sportback anyway) and to have caught the corrosion before it got any worse. I guess water gets trapped in there and has no means of escape.

One tip is not to use hammerite on a warm day anything above 18 degrees and it starts to skin over before you can spread it round to a nice even covering.
 
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Wow looks awesome !! Good masking by the way !!
 
Rob2k68 said:
^^ might go for two coats if the drying time between coats is only half hour - could alternate between front and rear wheel quite easily. Cheers for the heads up.
Click to expand...

Hammerite may be dry in half an hour but the RECOAT time is four hours. If you apply the second coat to soon it reacts with the first coat and lifts it (you can't see this). This will mean it fails sooner.

http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_smooth_finish.jsp

Also two coats is a must for maximum protection.
 
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^^ Cheers for that I'll give them a second coat next Friday as I've got the day off work. Shouldn't take long now that the surface prep has been done.
 
Got a couple of questions regarding painting the "hubs"

1. Will the 250ml of Hammerite in smooth silver be enough to have 2 coats for all 4 hubs ?. Or will I need the 750ml one ?

2. While doing the rear hubs, is it safe to release the E-brake while jacked up and on stands with a brick behind the other rear wheel(so I can rotate the disc while painting) ?.
 
I was planning on a change of colour to black, anyone used black?
 
Codlot said:
Got a couple of questions regarding painting the "hubs"

1. Will the 250ml of Hammerite in smooth silver be enough to have 2 coats for all 4 hubs ?. Or will I need the 750ml one ?

2. While doing the rear hubs, is it safe to release the E-brake while jacked up and on stands with a brick behind the other rear wheel(so I can rotate the disc while painting) ?.
Click to expand...
I didn't use a whole 250ml tub for two coats on all four. Have a very smooth and even finish all round and has been on for 4 months now, no issues with fading and looks as good as it did the day it was done. Haven't had any issues when cleaning wheels with trade bought 'wheel acid' either!

As for the second, I've always left it on to be honest. With the right sized brush and good masking tape skills it's pretty easy! :p
 
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