What do i do? Unknown state of engine Tfsi 2.0t

waxhead38

waxhead38

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So where do i begin. I have brought a audi a4 2.0t Sline off a friend of mine.
previously he was driving along the oil light came on, so he pulled in check the oil level and seemed fine and stupidly continued to drive with the warning on the dash. The engine aparently started to sound like a diesel engine after a couple miles, so he pulled over and got it recovered to a local garaged who removed the sump and oil pump and quoted him £2500 for a new oil pump fitted and hope for the best :/ he didnt have the money and decided to claim on the warrenty which wasnt possible due to he missed a oil service. in the end He wanted to get rid of the car.

so i come along and buy the car off him for £1000, so i have brought a car with the sump removed and the oil pump and balance shafts in the boot along with big end bearings which are in good condition.
Im planning on removing the engine and rebuilding it. But i need to know if im ok to refit the old pump. Because it really is in good condition, im guessing the pickup pipe was blocked? But its unknown to me as i didnt remove the sump ect.
is there anything that can go faulty on the pump causing low oil pressure apart from clogged pick up pipe? I have heard about the broken chains/sprockets but my pump is all in one piece
smile.png




So my question really is do i reuse the pump, buy a new one, or fit a conversion kit?


Thanks
craig
 
waxhead38 said:
So where do i begin. I have brought a audi a4 2.0t Sline off a friend of mine.
previously he was driving along the oil light came on, so he pulled in check the oil level and seemed fine and stupidly continued to drive with the warning on the dash. The engine aparently started to sound like a diesel engine after a couple miles, so he pulled over and got it recovered to a local garaged who removed the sump and oil pump and quoted him £2500 for a new oil pump fitted and hope for the best :/ he didnt have the money and decided to claim on the warrenty which wasnt possible due to he missed a oil service. in the end He wanted to get rid of the car.

so i come along and buy the car off him for £1000, so i have brought a car with the sump removed and the oil pump and balance shafts in the boot along with big end bearings which are in good condition.
Im planning on removing the engine and rebuilding it. But i need to know if im ok to refit the old pump. Because it really is in good condition, im guessing the pickup pipe was blocked? But its unknown to me as i didnt remove the sump ect.
is there anything that can go faulty on the pump causing low oil pressure apart from clogged pick up pipe? I have heard about the broken chains/sprockets but my pump is all in one piece
smile.png




So my question really is do i reuse the pump, buy a new one, or fit a conversion kit?


Thanks
craig
Click to expand...

Hi Craig,

It's hard to say without trying the pump again really, but after a rebuild do you really want to risk the pump being the main cause of the engine failure? Or would you rather replace it for piece of mind?
Personally I would change it along with the pick up pipe, at least that way your main source of oil pressure and pick up is working the way it should be. Most likely the pick up is the cause of the failure if the sprocket hasn't cheered of the balance shaft.

As for the rest of it.... New head and everything with it is a must, plus a re bore with oversized pistons really.
As much as the shells may be ok, you may find there is quite a lot of piston slap from cold. Also Maybe little or no compression as well. Plus piston slap means excessive oil usage (or can do)

Ideally for a fail safe rebuild, I'd change the lot and check for any scoring on the crank.

(Apologies if I'm trying to teach you how to suck eggs)

Hope this helps. Bargain price for the car by the way :)
 
Unlikely to have damaged bottom end from experience most likely to have started to have started seizing the cam . If you decarbon everything it will most likely be fine when the head is sorted.
 
ttktm said:
Unlikely to have damaged bottom end from experience most likely to have started to have started seizing the cam . If you decarbon everything it will most likely be fine when the head is sorted.
Click to expand...
Last 3 I've rebuilt have all needed bottom end and top end. From the same fault.
 
going to take the engine out on saturday, will post back with my findings :)
 
Just done a Golf gti cam was seized due to blocked oil strainer, fixed the cam and unblocked runs great. The head is always first to be starved of oil in a low pressure situation. Might as well pull a cap off while you have the motor out though.
 
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removed the engine today all went smoothly. had enough time to wip off the sump and the cam cover.
Rod Journals on the crank dont look bad, forgot to take a picture of the bearings as their still in the boot from previous owner, but they are in good shape aswell.
Camshaft not to bad. a little rough on number 4 cylinder.
im guessing the engine noise he was talking about was the lack of oil in the lifters.
the sump and engine internally is very mucky and had a little puddle of black sludgy oil left over in the sump.

ttktm what do you mean pull a cap off



IMG_2144_2.jpg



IMG_2142.jpg



IMG_2140.jpg


IMG_2143.jpg
 
What states the pick up pipe in? Clogged?
I assume he means pull a cap off the end of the camshaft.
I'd take the carrier off and investigate further. Usually picks up on the carrier and the head. I've got 4 heads ready to weigh in that look the same.
 
stripped the rest of engine down today, got down to head and block.
two cam journals are damaged as pictured and blocked the oil holes in the process.
cams are both in good shape and the carrier is fine, surprised with the damage on the head didn't affect the cam carrier.

IMG_2153.jpg



IMG_2154.jpg



IMG_2155.jpg
 
I have sourced a cylinder head but it was removed of a BWA engine. Is there any differences between the two?
 
Just as I expected.
Yeah a BWA head will fit, also comes with the revised inlet camshaft as well.
Should do you fine after a skim.
 
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Head ordered and on its way, next problem, cant get the fricking crank bolt out. Snapped my breaker bar head, took the block to my mate, he tried snap on gun, air gun, breaker bar and with a little heat, try both ways clockwise and anticlockwise. It will not shift.
Any advice welcome as im stuck. Going to take a trip to a local garage who work on lorrys and see if they have a more powerful air tool to remove it
 
waxhead38 said:
Head ordered and on its way, next problem, cant get the fricking crank bolt out. Snapped my breaker bar head, took the block to my mate, he tried snap on gun, air gun, breaker bar and with a little heat, try both ways clockwise and anticlockwise. It will not shift.
Any advice welcome as im stuck. Going to take a trip to a local garage who work on lorrys and see if they have a more powerful air tool to remove it
Click to expand...
Are you just wanting to remove the bottom pulley? If so you don't need to take the main crank bolt out to remove it. Just remove the spline bolts around the crank bolt. The pulley just slides over the top of the crank bolt.
 
Got the bolt removed today by the bloke who is doing the head skim, he put the whole block in his press to hold it steady, and used a 3foot breaker bar. Took alot of force but eventually cracked off, the bolt holds the bottom pulley/sproket for the timing belt.
 
Oh I thought you were just removing the pulley. Yeah they're tight lol!
Block all good then? No piston slap or swarf?
 
Been awhile since a update, i had rebuilt the engine, come across some issue on the way, slave cylinder seal blown, and leaky injector seals, fuel pipe split.
I will update this thread with pictures soon.

Engine was running sweet as a nut, but then after 5miles it developed a knock at 2000rpm i will upload a recording when i figure it out.

It then devloped into a constant banging like a valve banging a piston with added chain wipping the chain cover. Checked the cam chain, all fine tensioner good.
Under the sump noise sounded louder from gearbox side, thought might of been dmf, removed gearbox all fine, even started car without box on and no obvious problems.

I then removed the cam carrier and discovered its wearing away at this cylinder head now! :( not as bad and only on the end journal
No oil pressure issues, plenty of oil getting to top end.
Really dont know where to go now?
 
Unfortunately the head will be no good now. So that's one thing you need to look at replacing.
So I would take the head off and see if you can push any of the Pistons down slightly, that way you know it's most likely spun a shell.
Either way the head needs to come off so I'd strip it as far as you can until you find the problem. Then decide which way your going to go from there. That's what I would do anyway. Your call really.
 
Would you think the wear from the cam would cause the knocking? Also what would be causing it to do the same thing. I have used the orginal cams in the replacement cylinder head would this cause the problem?
 
Had a look again last night, the timing adjuster on the end of the cam has slight play in it is this ok? Also when i rotate the camshaft it gives a slight knock? Would this be my noise? Or is is just cause theres no oil inside it?
 
my local engineer said he could repair that damage and also said this wouldn't be causing a knock.

this video i have found on youtube is the same play i have in my cam adjuster is this normal

i wished i never brought this car now. its driving me mad.

 
The damage to your head would cause a knock due to the fact that the journals aren't as tight around the camshaft as they are suppose to be, causing play in the camshaft. That's your knock.
 
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