pretty pretty please with a chery on top can sumone help

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stoneA3

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:confused:doh doh and doh again errrrrr, just got a call from garage saying timing is all good on chain and belt and he said car needs an autolec to now check loom etc but hes done a compresion test and cylnder 1,2,3 are 9.8bar but 4 is low at 7.2bar checked head gasket with die test and all is fine ther so possibly valves or pissten rings ,
so collected the car and decided to take off the rocker cover and set timing tdc and to my amazment the two cam chain marks dont seem to be alignd is thi right or has it slipped a tooth if so whats involved in fixing it? also if it is wrong is this the reason why one cylinder is down on compression mayb a valves not fully closed? if thers anyone that can help thatd be awsum,


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Depends if the tensioner is compressed or not... when I build heads I wind them forward a tad then back up so the exhaust cam lines up... this should allow the tensioner to decompress and align the inlet cam properly...

There should be 16 chain rollers between the marks... if this is not the case then its wrong...

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<tuffty/>
 
ill count them and have a look the other thing i for got to mention was inside the rocker cover ther was a score mark from the chain made me wonder if it slipped ant that was the case only found it after i cleaned the crap off the inside
 
Seem to remember mine having a mark too so I don't think its anything to worry about... the chains are pretty tight on there tbh..

<tuffty/>
 
cool cheers buddy il count the chain and see wats going on
 
just made me wonder aswell if this is the reson it wnt start 1st time etc as the cam thats not allignd is the one with the sensor on it
 
Would through a correlation fault code typically if thats the case... not sure on starting, could be contributing..

<tuffty/>
 
tends to throw a cam senor error for the cam chains being out, correlation is if the crank to cam belt is incorrect via the belt.
 
when i fitted the new belt on sat i set it all tdc and the crank was a tooth out previous owner had a new belt fitted 2.5k ago so adjusted the tdc and fitted new belt ,water pump and tensioner and my crank and cam marks on the belt side of it are spot on now but being that it was out befor could this of made the chain side out of posistion? if so how do i correct the chain side is it straight forward or should i just get it to the garge ? im guna take off the cam cover again now and count the chain marks see whats going on really apriciate the help guys
 
You can do it by removing the inlet cam and compressing the chain tensioner to enable you to remove the inlet sprocket from the chain and move it around in need be... should say though there is generally no reason for this to be out unless the head has been apart before for a new tensioner or a rebuild of some description... they don't slip teeth like cam belts can

<tuffty/>
 
yep its a tooth out got 15 between the marks doh im wondering if the last owner had the cam belt snap and thts why they only changed the belt because the car was sold almost straight after it was changed mayb thats why im down on compression on cylinder 4 a bent valve? is there any sort of workshop manual with pics to show how to do this (im dislexic) doi need any sort of special tools thanks again for the help your a gentalman as a thank you its not much but if you wanted all the old sensors witch would now seem are fine your welcom to them if there any use to you
 
tbh the best thing to get if you are not sure and wanna take it on yourself is a Haynes manual...

tools wise you will need a tensioner compressor...
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If you think you have a bent valve though maybe its just worth taking the head off? bit more work of course (and a couple more tools)... doing the valves on these heads are hours (and I mean hours lol) of fun :)

<tuffty/>
 
lol sounds like a plan cheers dood ta for all the help matey
 
just a thought am i missing that black peice in the center on mine or does it not have it on the aum block

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Awesome, as said in the other thread I had a feeling it may be chain related. I am glad you have found the issue :) You may be able to start enjoying the car very soon !
 
yeah defo mate i hope so , just spoke to a garage and told him he said ah yeah comon on these cost you £1200-1600 plus parts hes said the chain has streched and there **** engines felt like punching him in the face lol! surly at 115k it hasnt streched a hole link ! also any ideas were i can buy the tool from to tension the chain side rung around no ones got any answers soz to be a pain lol im defo no paying that doods price tho me thinks hes having a laugh i could have a engine rebuild with a garenty for not far off that lol
 
that price is ******** !!! I know of a guy with an R32 golf that paid that for the same issue and it is a hell of a lot more work to sort in the R32 than it is on one of these !

I would get a chain yourself and do it mate. Theres no way it should cost 1200-1600 quid !
 
stoneA3 said:
yeah defo mate i hope so , just spoke to a garage and told him he said ah yeah comon on these cost you £1200-1600 plus parts hes said the chain has streched and there **** engines felt like punching him in the face lol! surly at 115k it hasnt streched a hole link ! also any ideas were i can buy the tool from to tension the chain side rung around no ones got any answers soz to be a pain lol im defo no paying that doods price tho me thinks hes having a laugh i could have a engine rebuild with a garenty for not far off that lol
Click to expand...
I can lend you the tool mate pm me..
I had an whole second head refurbished with new everthing including tensioner for £450!
 
audi upgrades
s3dave said:
I can lend you the tool mate pm me..
I had an whole second head refurbished with new everthing including tensioner for £450!
Click to expand...
hi matey thanks so much for the offer i just baught one from vw for £10+vat coming sat so just hope its the correct one lol,
that guys having a lagh i no i just laughd and walked away as his atitude stunk to say the least lol only paid £850 for the car thers no way id pay that bit of jump on my second quote from a vw specialist i found at £125! top bloke aswell gave me loads of advice and the part number for the tool and said have a crack at it see how u get on if u get stuck just ring and ill see if i can help or if u decide u dnt want to do it yourself ill do it next week really tidy guy! im guna have a crack at it on sat see how get on just figgured if i can do it myself ive got more money left for sum goodies lol cheers for all the help off everyone really means alot! and as said earlyer if anyone needs a sensor ive got a few your welcome too which it would now seem are ok lol
 
well good news my car finally starts first time and no more eml light , but the bad news is my inlet cam and cylinder head are screwd took off cam to do the work and you can emagin my horrer when i seen the state of the cam and head the pic will say it all so now im looking defo at a rebuild any ideas whats gone on here dont make sence motor sounds sweet also anyone no weer i can get a new head and cams cheap anyone?

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is it possible to fit a difrent code head and cams to my motor or does it have to be the same aum
 
stoneA3 said:
is it possible to fit a difrent code head and cams to my motor or does it have to be the same aum
Click to expand...

Yes and no... all 20v heads are interchangeable... I am running an AEB head from a 1997 A4 in my 2001 S3 for example...

However... AUM (IIRC) will have VVT and SAI so you need to find a head with at least an SAI port if you intend to keep the car as is and swap the VVT tensioner over if it doesn't have one and you also ideally need to stick to heads from transverse engines as the longitudal ones have different cam belt pulleys so extra work required there..

Good news is though almost anything older than 2001 and using a K03 turbo should be more or less a drop in swap so any VW, Seat, Skoda or Audi with a 20v and a K03... S3 heads will fit but don't have SAI so you would then need to do an SAI 'delete'... any heads with non VVT will need the tensioner swapped over and the cam position wheel swapped...

<tuffty/>
 
dude that head is F*ucked what happened there
 
Just edited the post to show the pic... didn't notice it...

All I can say is WOW!!!... never seen a head that damaged before!! good work :)

<tuffty/>
 
lol you wouldnt think it was like it iver motor sound sweet couldnt beleave my eyes to be honest have no idea why its like it but its defo proper knakerd lol
 
guna dump the sump and change the pick up aswell during rebuild and got to put a new clutch in aswell ****** slipping badly now its timed correct ive only driven around 100 miles since buying the car 4 weeks ago tried to get hold of the kid i baught it off to have words wouldnt answer his mob etc just more peed off at having wheel nuts missing and my kids in car tbh , not planning on driving the car atall now till its sorted as i thinks its guna seize if im not lucky :( ill post pics of car and do a proper build thread very soon cheers for all the help guys aswell
 
i think its old damage myself by previous owner as u could see a few signs of the cam being remooved before (marks on the torx screws etc) and ive never had any oil light come up etc i also cant beleave it sounds mint really strange to say the least think im guna change oil pump aswell as a matter of course but ive decided i might by a hole engine so ive got a few spares just in case lol with the luck ive had with this car i think its wise lol
 
audi upgrades
hi just wondering if this head is a good price and compatable never had to by a head befor so bit in the dark lol i also take it its advisable to get it skimed aswell ive basicly got £500 to try and repair it incl a clutch lol will do all the work myself to save a bit

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