Whats wrong with this pic ?????

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Quattro Matty

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IMG_0565.jpg
 
Correct Andy :icon_thumright: It also means i have no boost lol..

Can anyone tell me what a standard quattro runs psi please ??? The car has a R-Tec remap and graph that shows 180bhp (previous owner said he had it remapped for low down grunt and fuel economy not power) !!!

I take it if its come off i cant just fix it back on incase the bolt has moved ???
 
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If its had a r tech rempa to 180 id be worries, their 180 as standard.
 
Dani I have a receipt and graph from R-Tec stating 180bhp on graph and a receipt with stage 1 remap paid for ???
 
I'd just get another nut, bolt it back together and then use an air pump or bike pump to test the pipe to the actuator. If set correctly the actuator should open at 6 psi I believe.

Whether it's a standard car or not 6 psi is the opening pressure of the actuator as the ECU uses the N75 valve to control how much boost you get.
 
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Cheers for that bengal, I'm useless with cars so I'll get my bro on the case once he is back from big bang !!
 
im not allowed to post in a3 forums anymore :(
but prawn will tell you that actuator is 6psi.
remapped is imagine a good 18psi, but like you say the previous owner has requested different.

id get it scanned to see what boost request is, it will give you an idea.
and get the actuator fixed and set up to open at standard pressure
 
Mate like said on the actuator pressure but 180 is standard bhp for a 180.
 
I've had alook on the search button and apparently the 180 runs 10-11 psi as standard so I'll get my bro to set it at that. If the nut hasn't moved then it should be a case of bolt it back on and it should run at what R-Tec left it as...
 
Quattro Matty said:
I've had alook on the search button and apparently the 180 runs 10-11 psi as standard so I'll get my bro to set it at that. If the nut hasn't moved then it should be a case of bolt it back on and it should run at what R-Tec left it as...
Click to expand...

I think you're getting the wrong end of the stick, the actuator is set to 6 psi no matter whether it's a 150 or a 180. Think about it this way, say your car is a 150 k03 and you get it remapped to say 190, the actuator hasn't been touched so at 190bhp the actuator is still set at 6psi just like it was when it was a 150bhp car.

The N75 valve is what determines how much boost you get and the ECU tells it what to do.

Here's a link to explain it a bit better than I can, What the N75 valve does... - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum.

:thumbsup:
 
As above, there's no setting of actuator pressure, just pre-load. You need to pull the waste gate lever so it's closed, butt it upto the nut, then tighten it so it's pulling the actuator giving you a couple turns of preload, if you give it too much preload you will get a higher than normal spike in initial boost, of not enough it will creep past the waste gate result in requested pressures not being met. But it's fairly forgiving so shouldn't have any problems
 
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id want it bolted back together and made sure, by a professional, that its crack pressure is 6psi, or whatever standard is.
then get it on a dyno and see whats what, and mapped.
 
I have fitted a new locking nut, my question is do i bolt it upto the other nut that i can only presume is in the right place ???

Pic..
IMG_0567.jpg


Any advice please ???
 
If you push the arm towards the existing nut it should have a 2mm gap (2 threads), if so that's right, then just tighten up your locking nut. If there is no gap, You'll need to give it some preload.

You can do it yourself, doesn't need rolling road etc
 
That's what I would do, when it's done check the movement by hand, it shouldn't be slack and it should have some resistance but not too much so it's difficult to move by hand. In all honesty though like superkarl said, get it checked out by a professional just to be on the safe side.

I'm sure you don't want to be replacing the turbo anytime soon lol.
 
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Ive tried to put a locking nut on, it got stuck and wouldnt come off, as ive tried to unbolt the nut, the actuator rod turned twice anti clockwise 1/4 turns each time with the actuator making a pinging noise ???

Have i adjusted the pre load now ???

Me, cars and tools dont mix !!!!

Also ive noticed the rod is bent, this was like this before i tried to put the nut on, should it be bent or do i now need a new actuator ????
 
sportstractor ive got the bolt off by holding the rod, so a spinning rod wont affect the actuator pressure then ???

Sorry to be a complete pleb :banghead:
 
The rod spinning won't affect the preload, the adjustment is on the threads so the closer the the nuts are to the actuator, the more preload you will have. It does look like the rod is bent in the first pic now you mention it, the only way I can see it affecting anything is if you can't get the correct preload due to the bent rod, other than that it shouldn't be an issue.

As sportstractor says, you need to get something to hold the rod while you adjust it, as for the rod spinning, I don't know whether it means you need an actuator or not as I didn't have this problem. For the time being I would adjust it as normal and see if you've got your boost back lol.
 
No problem, I forgot to say once you've done it I'd give it a check in a couple of weeks, that locking nut may need nipping up again as it has the plastic lock on it, you might find that will melt away due to it getting hot down there. The nut will be fine after that.
 
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