Two options ... CRY or JUMP off a Cliff!!!..

Check boost pipework, esp. behind front bumper.

Basically do a general check off everything you can see, Oil cap, coolant levels/colours visible leaks, take off the turbo intake pipe and check for excessive play and oil in the intake pipe.

Then start it, if its serious the damage has been done anyways, run her up and touch would for you mate she'll purrrr.

My old G60 blew an intercooler pipe off and white smoke billowed out but cleared very quickly, obviously very worried at the time but stuck it back on and all sorted....until it blew the bottom end to pieces :D

Boost hoses popping off is one of the scariest things I've ever experienced. Seems SO dramatic!
 
Thanks for all your comments so far chaps ,

colicabcadam - i totally agree with your comment and looking down the legal / claim / compensation route i dont have an awful amount to go on. The only thing that keeps running through my mind is they did diag (ecu fault code checks ) and went for a testdrive. and they found no reasons or issues to cancel the go ahead with the remap. The engine wasnt smoking or experiencing any running issues what so ever before i took it there, after they did the checks and test drive they went ahead with the remap.I popped out to a store accross the road for a drink while the work was being carried out and the technician was bringing the car back in ( NO SIGN of any smoke etc when he was driving past). and soon after getting my drink they rang and said the work was complete but there was a boost issue to look into). i headed back in and the tech explained it common for the vacuum hoses and other similar parts to perish / fail so they could carry out a pressure check to narrow down the leakage point. This would cost me labour charges that i couldnt afford but i needed it sorted so went with it. The tech fitted a blank to the inlet pipe where the air filter connects it had a tyre style valve fitted to it with which he used a compressed air line and a tool used for tyre inflation to pressure the inlet system to try and achieve at least 30psi. I watched the inlet pipe inflate quite a lot and listened to the hissing from other small hoses on the vacuum system which indicated leaking. We highlighted a hose that needed replacing as it had a small split in it. They said the remap was fine but it would make more power once these hoses were replaced. So they determined the part number for the split hose and with that they said bring it back in once ive replaced it and theyl do the final tweeks with the map. I went back to the waiting room while they fitted the covers etc back on the engine. approxamately 10-15 mins later the saleman came back through and explained when they started it back up to remove it from the workshop it was smoking heavily ( cloudy white). What im trying to work out is based on this when they did the pressure test it unsettled something causing it to smoke when it was started back up. Can anyone see if i have a leg to stand on with this?? any guidance? ive brought the car back to my work where ive started looking into it. Spark plugs removed with no damage to them, compressions were ok considering the engine was cold ( as im not running it until ive ruled a few things out). Any advice much appreciated , Many Thanks
 
Did they cap off the pcv when they did the leak test? Remove the oil filler cap?
 
Backdraft really arent that bad.

This sounds very much like the story of the guy that got Rtech to map his car(think it was a 1.9TDI of some description) and then it went pop afterwards and everyone said its their fault and stuff but they`d done the same diag and checks before doing it and saw it fit to go ahead with the mapping as there were no visable faults or issues but still everyone said it was their fault when clearly it wasnt.
 
Sigainey . The filler cap was still on and it was hissing quite badly.
And jason im not saying it was necessarily their fault but the vehicle was damaged in / during their hands / process....
 
Yeah i know you arent but others are :p Its probably something that was very weak and was due to go shortly but then the map was put on and eventhough it was a matter of minutes after it was put on the new strain the engine is now undergoing has just finished whatever it was that was weak. Usually the way..Just like it would coilpacks or clutch and so on.
 
Hi,

Hmm you say you they pressurized at the intake hose (TIP) to 30PSI !!!

That will be the cause of the smoke then & why it only suddenly appeared after the leak test… however you might find the smoke will clear with some miles as S3dave has suggested.

Its risky imho using high pressures in this way to carry out a leak check on these. Really if you HAVE to do it this way, then go no more than ~6-7PSI MAX and make sure the PCV on the TIP is blocked off/oil filler cap removed etc

It is no problem (but more time consuming) to check the entire charge path without doing it at the tip, if high pressures are needed to isolate a leak(s).

Regards
Morgan
 
Hi,

Hmm you say you they pressurized at the intake hose (TIP) to 30PSI !!!

That will be the cause of the smoke then & why it only suddenly appeared after the leak test… however you might find the smoke will clear with some miles as S3dave has suggested.

Its risky imho using high pressures in this way to carry out a leak check on these. Really if you HAVE to do it this way, then go no more than ~6-7PSI MAX and make sure the PCV on the TIP is blocked off/oil filler cap removed etc

It is no problem (but more time consuming) to check the entire charge path without doing it at the tip, if high pressures are needed to isolate a leak(s).

Regards
Morgan
Very true, risky and dangerous to yourself think of a Tyre blow out at around 30 psi......:asskicking:
 
Thanks for your comments guys. If I can get a mechanics opinion on whether this is an exceptable process pressurising the system this way then I may be able to get something done or not about this... Ive just finished the engine checks everything seemed ok comps were good. Pressurised coolant that was ok. Borescope looked good. Turbo had slight play but not excessive. And no oil on intake side or boost side. On start up no smoke for around a minute then it started puffing out and lots of. It definitely smelt of oil and on inspection I could see signs of wet on the turbo flange to exhaust downpipe. Conclusion that oil seal blown on turbo in my opinion. I guess the case now is whats the best way to remote turbo and can anyone who's done this themselves please list all the parts I will need to replace? . Many thanks peoples :)
 
Hi,

PM me an email address & I will send you the factory take on how to perfom a leak test at the TIP, & the max pressure to be used.

Edit
Just so you know it can take sometimes like 10 (being careful) miles or so driving before the smoke will fully clear (assuming no physical seal damage)

If your tests so far have only been at idle, then I wouldnt rule out the possibility you might have got away with it just yet.

Of course be careful with any road testing !

Regards
Morgan
 
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