Recent content by Murton

If the bulbs in parallel are on but the LEDs arn't then it can only really be the LEDs that are at fault. On my car I have the older headlights with normally a P21W DRL bulb. I bought LED DRLs from trups and then used VCDS to recode the car to tell it that it had LED DRLs. This changed the way...

With 6 ohm resistors you will be drawing 24W through them plug whatever the LED DRLs are taking. The car is expecting to only supply 19W. I would measure the current through the LED DRLs and then get the correct resistors to increase the power up to 19W

Maybe the blow off dump value is set at a much higher pressure than normal boost. Normally dump valves are to stop excess pressure not because it affects the engine but because it can try to stall the turbo which is not good for it. In this case you will still have some high boost slowing down...

Also consider what happens when you come off the throttle or change up a gear. The VAG cars do not have an intake pressure sensor but instead work it out by using a combination of the engine speed and the air mass sensor. Changing the setup to vent to the outside will cause the ECU to see more...

You might not be able to. If you want to run higher boost you might have to replace it with one of a higher rating. There is also a wastegate on the input to the turbo which lests the exhaust bypass the turbo when you are off throttle and this is what normally regulates the boost pressure I...

The piston seals a hole between the air intake and the boost output of the turbo. When you lift off the throttle the ECU pulls back the piston to allow the boost to circulate back into the air intake side (so the air effectivly just goes round and round the turbo until it spins down). The centre...

Coolant leak which is also letting air into the system causing an air lock?

I get around 300 miles to a tank. going to and from work which includes a couple of dual carriageways on the way back. On a longer run I get closer to 400 miles.

You will need to get the parts fitted and then get it towed to an Audi dealership and get them to program the new key into the immobiliser. You need a code in order to program a new key and not even the dealers can get that any more. The software they use talks direct to Audi HQ to get the code...

If the small resistor that is wired across the bulb has failed then the light will work but the system will think the bulb has failed as it is now taking too little current.

My HID lights are prone to flickering at times which I suspect is a combination of old bulbs and a bit of moisture in the headlamp. Doesn't normally cause a problem and only flags up as a bulb fault and require switching off and back on about once a month or so. On Sunday I fitted a LED boot...

Under one of the front seats I believe.

I am not really sure. If only the regular lights are working then take a look at night by comparing them at the same angle. If there is a bad earth one will be dimmer although it will not be as noticeable.

The first thing I would suspect would be a bad earth. If another light was on then the ground would not be at 0V so depending on timing etc... the computer might show one at random as being faulty. Best way to test would be to turn on the lights and get someone to press the brake and indicate...

What interface are you going to use with them. The VAG 1.1 software even if it supports the latest cars is going to require an interface which supports CAN so a cheap generic one is not going to work. The apps which display turbo boost you will need to make sure they specifically work with VAG...