water temp question

glens14a

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Hello,

First post in the technical section hope I don't have to do it too often :yes:

My 03 2.0fsi water temp gauge is reading very low, should I look for anything other than the thermostat?

Glen.
 
Faulty temp sender?

Check the radiator hoses from a cold start. If they start getting warm quickly then the 'stat is probably stuck open.
 
Faulty temp sender?

Check the radiator hoses from a cold start. If they start getting warm quickly then the 'stat is probably stuck open.

Should I check both top and bottom hoses from cold start?
Found this article on temp sensor http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng47.shtml
eng47-pic2.jpg
 
top hose is the hot return from the engine and the bottom one is the cool feed to the engine - check the top one.

If you can get a hold of one, a laser temp probe (silverline do a cheap one) or a contact thermometer - you could check the pipe temp on the large black metal section as it leaves the engine (top hose), and compare that with the gauge reading, if they match, the stat is stuck open and the engine really is as cool as it says, if not, the sensor is faulty.
 
on this topic my car temp runs at70 on the gage then if i go at speed or motorway the car will rise to 90 never gose over that then if i slow down it will drop back down to around 70 it has been doing this since i got the car is this normal? Thanks.
 
Hi stevie, thats probably a sign that the stat is faulty, ie more open than it should be, since at higher speeds the pump flow is higher too so the sender sees higher temps, and at low speed the engine is overcooling. Is your fan running constantly at the radiator? The car seems to detect stuck open stats or other water flow problems silently but turns the cooling fan on all the time for some weird reason, ive seen a lot of folks with that problem on here.

Mine is rock steady at 90 no matter what I do, and warms up extremely quickly from cold.

Even with a fairly large leak at the coolant flange on mine (another saga) it doesnt run hotter or cooler, just right.
 
didn't get a chance to check while there was daylight today but i did notice that the heater won't blow hot.
 
thanks again for the help and info guys,

I checked it this morning and the top hose does feel warm to the touch but definitely not hot.
Is the thermostat a diy job (where is it on a 2.0fsi) or a big pain in the rear let Audi do it Job.
 
Hi stevie, thats probably a sign that the stat is faulty, ie more open than it should be, since at higher speeds the pump flow is higher too so the sender sees higher temps, and at low speed the engine is overcooling. Is your fan running constantly at the radiator? The car seems to detect stuck open stats or other water flow problems silently but turns the cooling fan on all the time for some weird reason, ive seen a lot of folks with that problem on here.

Mine is rock steady at 90 no matter what I do, and warms up extremely quickly from cold.

Even with a fairly large leak at the coolant flange on mine (another saga) it doesnt run hotter or cooler, just right.

Have you checked the temp in vagcom? I've read on many forums that the temp gauges often stick at 90 even when the temps vary. I've seen 90c read on a car when the temp has been from 78-88c. Diesels do fluctuate and don't run as hot. I tested mine with a new thermostat. It made no difference. It warms up to 80 quick and operates at about 80-84c.

I had a temp gauge prob that was fixed with a dry joint, but, initially I thought it the sender. The new sender showed varying readings as I get in vagcom. Up hills warmer, downhills it would cool say 4-5 degrees.
 
yeah mate these engines are hideous to work on due to the longitudinal mounting and lack of space around it, right pain in the **** eh.
 
I was going to book it in for a service as the service light has come on, may as well get them to do it at the same time.
 
I have a BDV 2.4 V6, have changed the PITA one a few years ago, but an exploded view of the cooling system shows another identical temp sensor at bottom of radiator hose. My temp gauge is fine, but throws an G62 high input error, and fans go full on startup(cold).
Can G62 refer to either of these, or is it only the awkward one?
I blead coolant system when i did the belt, and as another belt is due want to iron out niggles...
Seen also that Fuchs Titan CVT ATF is recommended by Opie Oils for my CVT (FYX 01JH). Anyone know where i can get a upgrade kit to the 7-plate as getting close to 200k miles.
 

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