Help needed desperately

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Hello everyone , A3 8P 2.0 TFSI BWA owner here
I've been having issues with my car sputtering , revs dropping , loss of power. The issue stems from loss of fuel pressure OR electrical fault, I'm not sure. Car almost never gives a check engine light or stores any codes but sometimes it does. It gives me P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input (G247). This happens perhaps once or twice a week. Other than that car runs and pulls nicely. I have changed the Fuel Rail pressure sensor and i have taken the car to an electrician to replace all the wiring for the sensor. Made no difference. I have checked all fuses and relays and also the fuel pump control module. On it i saw its from 2018 so its been replaced recently and I figure should be ok. The pump itself is from 2006 so maybe that's the problem? What I really want to know is if the code which I'm getting is a result of electrical issue from the sensor to the ECU or is it a problem with the fuel system? What do you suggest i do next? I was told to perhaps take the ECU to be opened up by a specialist to check for corrosion?
 

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Check your fuel pump if it has the cam follower behind it, possibly holed & damaged the hpfp end & the cam, hypothetical but check it anyway to be sure.

Without checking etka I couldn't be sure of the engine build but worth a check.
 
Check your fuel pump if it has the cam follower behind it, possibly holed & damaged the hpfp end & the cam, hypothetical but check it anyway to be sure.

Without checking etka I couldn't be sure of the engine build but worth a check.
Already replaced it , it was worn but not too much. New follower was installed , the pump visually was without damage. But you think that actual low fuel pressure can cause this specific code I got? I'm not sure which way to pursue , electronics or mechanical? Btw, new fuel filter was also installed
 
Worn in what way, hole through it?
 
Worn in what way, hole through it?
No , not even close , the black coating was worn out but not all the way through the follower itself. Cam was also not damaged. Photo attached
 

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So did this happen before or after the follower change?
 
So did this happen before or after the follower change?
This was there ever since I bought the car. Nothing I did affected it. Previous owner had it for 6 months and i think he knew about the issue but didn't tell me. Other than that nothing is known. When I bought it the wires from the HP fuel sensor were replaced but it was done in a bad way. Wires were just laid on top of the engine. I took the car to an electrician and routed new wires through the harness as they should be. However this made no difference
 
Depends if they replaced wires fully or just from a broken location.
 
Wonder if the ECU was damaged, did they check for any burn marks, PCB issues?
 
Wonder if the ECU was damaged, did they check for any burn marks, PCB issues?
That is what I'm thinking as well. From the outside , no. But perhaps something inside , would need to open it up to see. Problem is so intermittent that I'm thinking it could be a bad solder joint or something similar inside? Anyway I'm not gonna spare any expense and I'm gonna take it to a specialist to open it up and check.
Other than that mate I forgot to mention that ONCE in the year since I've owned it, after filling up the fuel tank I started the car and got the ,,fuel tank system malfunction error`` on the dashboard. I turned off and restarted the car and it went away never to be seen again. That led me to believe that perhaps its a common source of the previously mentioned issue. Maybe the fuel pump module or the fuel pump??? Any thoughts?
 
That was my next suggestion tbh, if it's a quattro remember it's got 2 sides to the pump.
 
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That was my next suggestion tbh, if it's a quattro remember it's got 2 sides to the pump.
Its been replaced today and I drove the car for about 10 miles only which is not enough to confirm its fixed. Sometimes the problem wouldn't occur for a couple of hundred miles but I will report back here just in case someone else is having the same problem. Btw thank you for your input Sir!
 
What part number was ur new pump, plus in ur old pump did you check to see ( if i mind ) there is a washer in it and sometimes when people take them apart to look into thwm they loae the washer as if i mind this happened to my pump and i had a mixed response on did it have said washer in it or not

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What part number was ur new pump, plus in ur old pump did you check to see ( if i mind ) there is a washer in it and sometimes when people take them apart to look into thwm they loae the washer as if i mind this happened to my pump and i had a mixed response on did it have said washer in it or not

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I'm not sure which washer you are talking about. Ill send you the exact P/N for the new pump tomorrow. If you could specify which washer you are talking about perhaps I could provide pics from the old pump. I really cant take out the new one.
Edit: This is the exact pump I ordered https://www.prodajadelova.rs/bosch-0-986-580-940
 
What part number was ur new pump, plus in ur old pump did you check to see ( if i mind ) there is a washer in it and sometimes when people take them apart to look into thwm they loae the washer as if i mind this happened to my pump and i had a mixed response on did it have said washer in it or not

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My problem was not solved by the fuel pump mate...
 
Does it happen at any particular RPM/full throttle? When was fuel filter changed last?
I had observable improvement in RPM stability after change, didn't have any codes.
 
Does it happen at any particular RPM/full throttle? When was fuel filter changed last?
I had observable improvement in RPM stability after change, didn't have any codes.
Fuel filter was changed around 1000 km ago (2 months). No running conditions or driving style impact the chances of the problem occurring. I'm almost 100% sure that it is completely random. I was unraveling the wiring loom 3 days ago and all the wires were in mint condition but since moving them around it didn't happen again????? Very odd. Do you know if the wire is uninterrupted from the high pressure fuel sensor to the ECU or is there some sort of connector / junction before it continues to the ECU? Or perhaps where I can look that up?
 
I'm not sure which washer you are talking about. Ill send you the exact P/N for the new pump tomorrow. If you could specify which washer you are talking about perhaps I could provide pics from the old pump. I really cant take out the new one.
Edit: This is the exact pump I ordered https://www.prodajadelova.rs/bosch-0-986-580-940
Thats not the pump i am on about mate , so no worries about washer

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after filling up the fuel tank I started the car and got the ,,fuel tank system malfunction error`` on the dashboard
Maybe worth checking the sender unit, opposite side of the fuel pump
I was unraveling the wiring loom
From which side? Any connectors/connector body/retaining clips there broken? These cars albeit still nice are starting to show their age and the heat cycles in the engine dry up the plastic. I'd be looking at these kind of things before opening up/replacing ECU, if your connectors or wires are broken, replacement ECU may not fix your issue. But do check the ECU connector for corrosion.

Get yourself some contact cleaner or 99% isopropyl and clean the contact/connectors as you work on the car

Re wire from pump to ECU, power to pump motor is likely go via relay and fuse and sensor wires direct.
 
Maybe worth checking the sender unit, opposite side of the fuel pump

From which side? Any connectors/connector body/retaining clips there broken? These cars albeit still nice are starting to show their age and the heat cycles in the engine dry up the plastic. I'd be looking at these kind of things before opening up/replacing ECU, if your connectors or wires are broken, replacement ECU may not fix your issue. But do check the ECU connector for corrosion.

Get yourself some contact cleaner or 99% isopropyl and clean the contact/connectors as you work on the car

Re wire from pump to ECU, power to pump motor is likely go via relay and fuse and sensor wires direct.
I have replaced the whole fuel pump together with the sender unit but that was not the cause of my issues.
I opened up the loom just above the starter and under the battery holder/plastics but every single wire looks brand new (Nothing corroded , broken , no spliced wires...) One connector was out of its ``seat`` so to say (It slides from the top so it doesn't vibrate I guess, the connector itself is solid. It's located behind the throttle body , seems to be coming from under the intake manifold.)
I see that there are some spliced wires right on the Fuel pressure sensor connector from when the electrician ``replaced`` the wires but I cannot access that properly without taking out the intake manifold. That will also allow me to see the whole wire from the connector onwards to the ECU. I'm thinking that's the best way forward. The connectors on the ECU and the pins are 100% clean without any corrosion but I still cleaned them thoroughly anyway.
I haven't checked the wires from the pump to the ECU at all. I guess I'm gonna trust the code the car has thrown and focus my attention on the wiring of that sensor for now and do it myself since I cant trust any mechanic/electrician any more.
I will post further findings and hopefully I get to the bottom of this..
 
So I replaced the pump , that wasn't the problem , ended up removing the intake manifold and saw that the previous electrician didn't replace the wires properly. Just cut off the old one , stripped the wires and twisted them by hand.... I soldered the wire properly and I haven't had the problem since. Cant trust anyone these days. I'm glad the problem is resolved I'm just ****** it took all this and ME redoing the same job I paid someone else to do in the first place.
BTW thank you all , hope the post helps someone.
 
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Are you fecking kidding me, he twisted them & left like that, guess you won't be going back there, I've seen some other retrofitters work tbh & that was shockingly bad, so it's not a new thing to me, always solder & heat shrink & test thoroughly.
 
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Are you fecking kidding me, he twisted them & left like that, guess you won't be going back there, I've seen some other retrofitters work tbh & that was shockingly bad, so it's not a new thing to me, always solder & heat shrink & test thoroughly.
I was pisd really bad about it when i found out.. It wasnt one guy who did this exact thing .. Ive sent the car to 2 electricians to do this properly but the wire being rather inaccesible they couldnt be bothered to do it properly. These days you need to be EXACT about what you ask them to do , otherwise they will go with the line of least resistance..
 
I was pisd really bad about it when i found out.. It wasnt one guy who did this exact thing .. Ive sent the car to 2 electricians to do this properly but the wire being rather inaccesible they couldnt be bothered to do it properly. These days you need to be EXACT about what you ask them to do , otherwise they will go with the line of least resistance..
Actually I'd disagree, it's not the need to be exact, this is down to laziness & cowboy attitude by these 2 supposed auto sparks & if they work like that then they don't deserve the namesake.

It doesn't matter where the wiring is, I would explain to client if it's hard to access then it takes more time to fix as may have to remove things to get to it, but I do not at any time do as they have, I don't want to be going back to a job to fix that I should of done properly the 1st time, it could be 200 miles away, no thanks, client either accepts my work process or I don't do the job, I'm not going to lower my standards to make there pocket less empty.
 
Actually I'd disagree, it's not the need to be exact, this is down to laziness & cowboy attitude by these 2 supposed auto sparks & if they work like that then they don't deserve the namesake.

It doesn't matter where the wiring is, I would explain to client if it's hard to access then it takes more time to fix as may have to remove things to get to it, but I do not at any time do as they have, I don't want to be going back to a job to fix that I should of done properly the 1st time, it could be 200 miles away, no thanks, client either accepts my work process or I don't do the job, I'm not going to lower my standards to make there pocket less empty.
I couldnt agree more. What makes it worse, the 2nd time i went to get it done , i told the guy that i dont care about the cost, do what ever you need to do and take your time. When he was done (twisting them) he told me that wasnt the problem and that i prob had a bad ECU.... I almost bought it. Lucky for me I decided to investigate myself
 
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Well that's even worse tbh, they had a chance to legitimately earn more money but still did a shxt job, that's unforgivable tbh, who in there right mind would act like that, it's just illogical & absolutely zero common sense.

I'd like to think people come to me because I'm super anal, I treat clients cars better than my own as tbh going home to work on mine after long days of others is hard to achieve lol, as an example I haven't washed my car for hate to say it probably a year, bad I know but I washed it the other day & have to say love it cleaner lol.
 

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