Goodbye Vauxhall (sort of), well hello Audi S3

Santa was kind this year and delivered some festive car treats with Valet Pro brushes, thin wall 16mm spark plug socket and a Gecko smelly for when the current one runs out of puff.

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I decided to mount the brushes and socket in my second home for easy access and no doubt they’ll all get used soon.

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You must have been a good boy last year!
Tool storage is coming along, you'll soon be making boxes!!!

Tool storageParts storage
 
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Nothing much happening with my vehicles apart from I found VW had released the 2022/2023 maps last month so thought I’d update the Amarok Discovery Media. It’s simple with the VW DiscoveryCare app after popping your genuine SD card into your PC it’s just a next next next etc then you have the latest maps for free…unlike Audi who want to change you a small fortune for licenses and this that and the other :crying:

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SD card popped back into the Amarok and tested successfully. Here’s the version info from the SD card.

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Details located here on the official VW site for all the free map updates for the lifetime of your nav system. You’ll find the Discovery Care app download links for Windows and Mac once you have selected your vehicle and then navigation system or the direct links are Discovery Care Windows or Discover Care Mac. All the help guides are located within the installer bundles. Enjoy your free updates VW owners :racer:
 
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Popped to Blyton Park today as Dukeries Motor Club were hosting a track day for rally cars as a pre-2022 season shake down so couldn’t resist a look see. There were some amazing machines there so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

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Finally, this glorious Darrian with a yummy Millington lump, it sounded amazing. If you have never seen one click here to learn more.

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Popped to Blyton Park today as Dukeries Motor Club were hosting a track day for rally cars as a pre-2022 season shake down so couldn’t resist a look see. There were some amazing machines there so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

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Finally, this glorious Darrian with a yummy Millington lump, it sounded amazing. If you have never seen one click here to learn more.

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Now that MK2 Escort is a thing of beauty !
 
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My Dad reported Code 15 popping up on his Meriva B dash. After I researched and scanned for codes it was the rear centre brake light at fault so a replacement was ordered. I used my trusty plastic pry tools and popped off the inner trim prior to wrestling the brake light free and removing the washer jet and loom plug. Old suspect is the top red one, super slick tinted replacement is the lower item.

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Hole cleaned where it fits and ready for its new home.

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Refit washer jet and loom plug then press firmly and wait for the ‘click’ as it locates. Cleared the stored code and tested successfully. Hopefully that’s sorted it otherwise it’s a wiring or module issue which are never fun to resolve.

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Due to my mates slight mishap with his truck canopy glass oops, I decided a mini project was required on my Amarok. I obtained the broken Truckman interior glass release handle and set about installing it on my Avenger canopy. I started with the interior cover plate and removed it to reveal the rear of the exterior handle and the central locking place which I fitted myself after numerous companies said it can’t be done.

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I offered up the interior release hand but there was no way I could hold it in place, the thread was too short.

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I then stripped the mechanism, drilled out the original 25mm long bars before drilling and tapping then thread locking in new 35mm M6 bolts.

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This then allowed the release handle to be bolted into position.

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A 40mm hole was drilled in the cover panel which allows the handle to be fitted and used.

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Rather happy with the finished item, nice and neat installation. The reason behind this is should I ever wish to sleep in the truck bed which I have done a couple of times you can easily exit without having to unscrew the cover plate. The interior handle will not operate when the central locking is locked, same as the exterior handle, but unlock it and out you pop ;)

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Due to my mates slight mishap with his truck canopy glass oops, I decided a mini project was required on my Amarok. I obtained the broken Truckman interior glass release handle and set about installing it on my Avenger canopy. I started with the interior cover plate and removed it to reveal the rear of the exterior handle and the central locking place which I fitted myself after numerous companies said it can’t be done.

20220226_102057Small.jpg


I offered up the interior release hand but there was no way I could hold it in place, the thread was too short.

20220226_102441Small.jpg


I then stripped the mechanism, drilled out the original 25mm long bars before drilling and tapping then thread locking in new 35mm M6 bolts.

20220226_111705Small.jpg


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This then allowed the release handle to be bolted into position.

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A 40mm hole was drilled in the cover panel which allows the handle to be fitted and used.

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Rather happy with the finished item, nice and neat installation. The reason behind this is should I ever wish to sleep in the truck bed which I have done a couple of times you can easily exit without having to unscrew the cover plate. The interior handle will not operate when the central locking is locked, same as the exterior handle, but unlock it and out you pop ;)

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Now that is a very clever mod mate. :thumbs up:
 
After having the Stage 1 ECU tune last year I’d also researched TCU tunes but at the time thought it wasn’t worth it. Over the last few months the limited time I’ve spent behind the wheel of the S3 I’ve began noticing the DSG niggles more and more with clunky low speed changes, aggressive down shifting when you are playing and general unpleasantness and don’t even get me start on S mode being totally unusable as a general driving option. I then read a thread started by JimboBlue which peaked my interest here. I already knew TVS were the company to use so bit the bullet and made a call to book my closest dealer which just happened to be the UK main agents for TVS being Peron Automotive.

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Peron mainly focus on commercial development activities but do offer a small amount of private work so were happy to accept me for a TVS Stage 2+ TCU tune. This consists of the TCU Drivability remap in addition the TCU Stage 2 clutch pack clamping force upgrade. To read more about what TVS can offer see their official site here for DSG tuning.
On arrival at Peron last Thursday I was presented with a coffee before nervous trepidation kicked in waiting at the door where the magic happens. I received regular progress reports throughout the whole process which only took an hour and half before I was driving away with the S3 now at 20,771 miles. The DSG is reset after the tune in loaded and goes through an initial adaption process but straight away I could feel the difference in D so plodded home for my lunch.

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I then popped over to meet up with Potterswheel for a chat, S3 comparison, both static and driving and a general set the world to rights discussion between a plethora of coffees. This allowed me to stick some miles on the S3 to get use to the TCU tune and make sure everything else was performing as it should be.
@Potterswheel it was great to see you again and yes, we'll have to do it again soon.

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At the beginning of the day and being totally honest I was sceptical as to whether a TCU remap was for me and necessary but I can happily report the S3 now feels amazing to drive and both the ECU & TCU tunes complement each other perfectly to give you the best optimised S3 with otherwise completely stock hardware. The DQ381 box no longer races through the gears in D to keep the rpm as low as possible, gear changes are super quick and so precise. In S it no longer keeps hold of gears at high rpm when you’re not planting the throttle and the car is just such a pleasure to drive with no hesitation to release the power when asked. At crawling speeds and when pulling off it no longer feels clunky and doesn’t slur the gear changes. The parts you don’t feel are the increased clutch pack clamping forces up from factory 420Nm to 600Nm and the extra cooling and life extender tweaks which are all part of the software package TVS offer. I had no custom options as I simply wanted what should have been there when the car left the factory and that’s now exactly what I have. My total Thursday drive was 205 miles of which 42 miles was to Peron and I can honestly say the remaining 163 miles I covered with the TCU tune was an absolute delight.

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After having the Stage 1 ECU tune last year I’d also researched TCU tunes but at the time thought it wasn’t worth it. Over the last few months the limited time I’ve spent behind the wheel of the S3 I’ve began noticing the DSG niggles more and more with clunky low speed changes, aggressive down shifting when you are playing and general unpleasantness and don’t even get me start on S mode being totally unusable as a general driving option. I then read a thread started by JimboBlue which peaked my interest here. I already knew TVS were the company to use so bit the bullet and made a call to book my closest dealer which just happened to be the UK main agents for TVS being Peron Automotive.

20220310_103621Small.jpg


Peron mainly focus on commercial development activities but do offer a small amount of private work so were happy to accept me for a TVS Stage 2+ TCU tune. This consists of the TCU Drivability remap in addition the TCU Stage 2 clutch pack clamping force upgrade. To read more about what TVS can offer see their official site here for DSG tuning.
On arrival at Peron last Thursday I was presented with a coffee before nervous trepidation kicked in waiting at the door where the magic happens. I received regular progress reports throughout the whole process which only took an hour and half before I was driving away with the S3 now at 20,771 miles. The DSG is reset after the tune in loaded and goes through an initial adaption process but straight away I could feel the difference in D so plodded home for my lunch.

20220310_094350Small.jpg


20220310_083654Small.jpg


I then popped over to meet up with Potterswheel for a chat, S3 comparison, both static and driving and a general set the world to rights discussion between a plethora of coffees. This allowed me to stick some miles on the S3 to get use to the TCU tune and make sure everything else was performing as it should be.
@Potterswheel it was great to see you again and yes, we'll have to do it again soon.

20220310_144644Small.jpg


20220310_145206Small.jpg


At the beginning of the day and being totally honest I was sceptical as to whether a TCU remap was for me and necessary but I can happily report the S3 now feels amazing to drive and both the ECU & TCU tunes complement each other perfectly to give you the best optimised S3 with otherwise completely stock hardware. The DQ381 box no longer races through the gears in D to keep the rpm as low as possible, gear changes are super quick and so precise. In S it no longer keeps hold of gears at high rpm when you’re not planting the throttle and the car is just such a pleasure to drive with no hesitation to release the power when asked. At crawling speeds and when pulling off it no longer feels clunky and doesn’t slur the gear changes. The parts you don’t feel are the increased clutch pack clamping forces up from factory 420Nm to 600Nm and the extra cooling and life extender tweaks which are all part of the software package TVS offer. I had no custom options as I simply wanted what should have been there when the car left the factory and that’s now exactly what I have. My total Thursday drive was 205 miles of which 42 miles was to Peron and I can honestly say the remaining 163 miles I covered with the TCU tune was an absolute delight.

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It just makes you wonder why Audi don’t have this sorted from new. One thing I remember when I had my S3 was the gearbox hesitation/clunkiness but then again that one fell to bits. Great write up again mate.
 
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After having the Stage 1 ECU tune last year I’d also researched TCU tunes but at the time thought it wasn’t worth it. Over the last few months the limited time I’ve spent behind the wheel of the S3 I’ve began noticing the DSG niggles more and more with clunky low speed changes, aggressive down shifting when you are playing and general unpleasantness and don’t even get me start on S mode being totally unusable as a general driving option. I then read a thread started by JimboBlue which peaked my interest here. I already knew TVS were the company to use so bit the bullet and made a call to book my closest dealer which just happened to be the UK main agents for TVS being Peron Automotive.

20220310_103621Small.jpg


Peron mainly focus on commercial development activities but do offer a small amount of private work so were happy to accept me for a TVS Stage 2+ TCU tune. This consists of the TCU Drivability remap in addition the TCU Stage 2 clutch pack clamping force upgrade. To read more about what TVS can offer see their official site here for DSG tuning.
On arrival at Peron last Thursday I was presented with a coffee before nervous trepidation kicked in waiting at the door where the magic happens. I received regular progress reports throughout the whole process which only took an hour and half before I was driving away with the S3 now at 20,771 miles. The DSG is reset after the tune in loaded and goes through an initial adaption process but straight away I could feel the difference in D so plodded home for my lunch.

20220310_094350Small.jpg


20220310_083654Small.jpg


I then popped over to meet up with Potterswheel for a chat, S3 comparison, both static and driving and a general set the world to rights discussion between a plethora of coffees. This allowed me to stick some miles on the S3 to get use to the TCU tune and make sure everything else was performing as it should be.
@Potterswheel it was great to see you again and yes, we'll have to do it again soon.

20220310_144644Small.jpg


20220310_145206Small.jpg


At the beginning of the day and being totally honest I was sceptical as to whether a TCU remap was for me and necessary but I can happily report the S3 now feels amazing to drive and both the ECU & TCU tunes complement each other perfectly to give you the best optimised S3 with otherwise completely stock hardware. The DQ381 box no longer races through the gears in D to keep the rpm as low as possible, gear changes are super quick and so precise. In S it no longer keeps hold of gears at high rpm when you’re not planting the throttle and the car is just such a pleasure to drive with no hesitation to release the power when asked. At crawling speeds and when pulling off it no longer feels clunky and doesn’t slur the gear changes. The parts you don’t feel are the increased clutch pack clamping forces up from factory 420Nm to 600Nm and the extra cooling and life extender tweaks which are all part of the software package TVS offer. I had no custom options as I simply wanted what should have been there when the car left the factory and that’s now exactly what I have. My total Thursday drive was 205 miles of which 42 miles was to Peron and I can honestly say the remaining 163 miles I covered with the TCU tune was an absolute delight.

20220310_181045Small.jpg
Hi Harvey,

I'm glad to hear that you're as happy with the TVS tune as I am - it really does make the car feel totally different and is definitely how it should be set-up from the factory, I suppose we have to blame emissions regs etc for that.

I'm now trying to convince myself that I need a stage 1 ECU tune...
 
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The Astra mk3 V6 was dug out of its Winter hibernation a few days ago as I had a couple of jobs lined up having now covered 60,777 miles. If you missed the custom LCD dash conversion that I made see here :)

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First job was to remove the rear nearside door card to figure out where an annoying rattle was coming from.

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A bit more poking, prodding and slapping and I found this loose in the bottom door, dried up sound deadening goop.

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Also noted the central locking pushrod was loose so applied a tried and tested motorsport fix.

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With that faffy job sorted the door card was popped back on.

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Next was to sort the screen washer tubing as the pipes were showing their age having gone through a few heat cycles under the hood and had a small weep. I removed both pipes and cut them back before soaking them in boiling water so they were supple enough to be pushed on for a nice snug fit.

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Last job was to try and figure out why the gearbox level plug was still weeping after fitting a crush washer which they don’t normally have anyway. Jacked the car up on its side and removed the level plug.

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After a good inspection I noted a slight deformation of the alloy casing when the level plug should sit snuggly, if you zoom in you can see the dent.

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The old M18 crush washer outer diameter wasn’t quite large enough to cover the damage so oil could just sneak past. I bought an M17 crush washer which was 24mm OD instead of the M18 22mm OD, filed the ID so it was a tight squeeze over the threaded section of the level plug and then added thread lock to the rear ID of the crush washer. I could have messed with chemical metal to get the mating face smooth but access is tight and I would have had to remove the drive shaft, I’m hoping my fix has sorted it so time will tell.

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Level plug torqued to spec being 50Nm and as you can see the new crush washer covers the mating face damage and coupled with the thread lock fingers crossed no more damp patch reappearing.

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The Astra mk3 V6 was dug out of its Winter hibernation a few days ago as I had a couple of jobs lined up having now covered 60,777 miles. If you missed the custom LCD dash conversion that I made see here :)

20220306_164114Small.jpg


First job was to remove the rear nearside door card to figure out where an annoying rattle was coming from.

20220306_102548Small.jpg


20220308_124104Small.jpg


A bit more poking, prodding and slapping and I found this loose in the bottom door, dried up sound deadening goop.

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Also noted the central locking pushrod was loose so applied a tried and tested motorsport fix.

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20220306_122119Small.jpg


With that faffy job sorted the door card was popped back on.

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Next was to sort the screen washer tubing as the pipes were showing their age having gone through a few heat cycles under the hood and had a small weep. I removed both pipes and cut them back before soaking them in boiling water so they were supple enough to be pushed on for a nice snug fit.

20220306_163423Small.jpg


Last job was to try and figure out why the gearbox level plug was still weeping after fitting a crush washer which they don’t normally have anyway. Jacked the car up on its side and removed the level plug.

20220311_121403Small.jpg


After a good inspection I noted a slight deformation of the alloy casing when the level plug should sit snuggly, if you zoom in you can see the dent.

20220311_121633Small.jpg


The old M18 crush washer outer diameter wasn’t quite large enough to cover the damage so oil could just sneak past. I bought an M17 crush washer which was 24mm OD instead of the M18 22mm OD, filed the ID so it was a tight squeeze over the threaded section of the level plug and then added thread lock to the rear ID of the crush washer. I could have messed with chemical metal to get the mating face smooth but access is tight and I would have had to remove the drive shaft, I’m hoping my fix has sorted it so time will tell.

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Level plug torqued to spec being 50Nm and as you can see the new crush washer covers the mating face damage and coupled with the thread lock fingers crossed no more damp patch reappearing.

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Love the motorsport fix, cable ties are the second man’s best friend.
 
I use to race karts in my twenties and the cable ties were my best friends!! I still use them for the odd job, one of which is on the old 8L S3 to stop the rear washer hose popping off the rear wiper motor. It’s been on for years now and hasn’t come off once.

Loving the posts @Harvey - keep up the good work.
 
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I had a rather interesting rebuild round my mates the other week as we needed to get his Vauxhall F20 gearbox fixed as 2nd and 3rd were crunching. The gearbox in question runs a Quaife SCCR (Super Close Competition Ratio) gear assembly, you know the ones that whine loudly. I have the same gear kit in my track car and knew the theory but had never needed to strip mine having purchased it built. I'm always up for a challenge and enjoyed this one immensely ;)

We started with the gear cluster removed from the main housing.

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Then removed the layshaft (input shaft, from clutch/engine) and main shaft (output shaft, to diff/wheels) from the intermediate plate that houses the end bearings.

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This left us with the reverse idler gear (left), layshaft (middle) and main shaft (right).

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Using my thin finger puller we stripped all the gears off the main shaft to check the brass syncros for wear.

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The mate I do rally servicing for had supplied his box of spares so we picked out the best syncros from this lot.

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It was at this point we noticed tooth gear damage on 2nd and a missing tooth on 3rd. These are Quaife gears so a call to Quaife was made who confirmed they had them on the shelf so a hefty payment was made and they arrived the next day.

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New shiny Quaife 2nd gear (right) and 3rd (left).

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After some head scratching and referring back to the pictures I took we got it back together with the selection fingers and rods in the right places.

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5th gear sits on it’s own the other side of the bearing plate, outermost from the engine.

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It was then slid back into the casing which had been left bolted to the engine. A dry run and all gears were selecting before oil was added and a successful road test with no more gear crunching.

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I had a previously suspect rear outer right PDC sensor showing full red when it was very wet the other month on the Amarok. It’s something that first happened a couple of years ago so I swapped the rear right inner and outer sensors to see if the intermittent fault moved with the sensor here. It’s happened only a few times since then but as I had a new sensor on my shelf I cracked on with fitting. Being an outer sensor, it was much easier to swap and didn’t involve removing the complete rear bumper, just 4x bolts gave me just enough room.

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Dodgy suspect sensor on the left and brand new genuine replacement on the right.

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All sorted in super quick time. I was so lucky it was an outer rear sensor otherwise a full mission to remove the complete bumper would have been on the cards again.

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I had a previously suspect rear outer right PDC sensor showing full red when it was very wet the other month on the Amarok. It’s something that first happened a couple of years ago so I swapped the rear right inner and outer sensors to see if the intermittent fault moved with the sensor here. It’s happened only a few times since then but as I had a new sensor on my shelf I cracked on with fitting. Being an outer sensor, it was much easier to swap and didn’t involve removing the complete rear bumper, just 4x bolts gave me just enough room.

20220311_111325Small.jpg


Dodgy suspect sensor on the left and brand new genuine replacement on the right.

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All sorted in super quick time. I was so lucky it was an outer rear sensor otherwise a full mission to remove the complete bumper would have been on the cards again.

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Come painted ? Bonus if it was.
 
Owners of any mk3 FL 8V will know the Stop/Start can be rather challenging as it kicks in while the vehicle is still moving at 4mph instead of 0mph. This can be very annoying as you might be turning the wheel which suddenly becomes heavy, not actually going to come to a dead stop and just want to then get going. I could go on but I hate it with a passion on my S3, less so on my Amarok as it only activates at 0mph and can be controlled easily with brake pressure, however I still end up manually turning it off via the dash button at start up in both vehicles. I rarely use SS but wanted to retain it should I ever feel the need so tweaking VCDS to disable it permanently wasn’t an option.

I recently stumbled across SS in-line loom adaptors sold on AliExpress thanks to @Potterswheel so took a punt and bought one for my mk3 FL S3 but could only find Amarok equivalent at twice the price. A bit more searching and cross checking and the Golf mk6 uses the same SS switch plug as the Amarok V6, £30 and both looms were ordered and arrived in 8 days.

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They even come with plastic trim tools included, I do have my own but these will no doubt come in handy.

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First, I tackled the S3 and popped the switch panel out using proper removal tools as this can’t be done with plastic trim tools.

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SS in-line loom installed and then I tested all button functions were working correctly prior to refitting the panel.

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The SS in-line adaptor loom let you program the SS button behaviour as follows:
Auto-off mode - Every time the car is started, the start-stop will be automatically turned off. If it is manually turned on it will still be turned off after the car is turned off and locked.
Memory mode - Manually switch the start-stop switch once, and the start-stop state will be saved and memorized at the next ignition cycle.
Service mode (original factory mode) - The effect is the same as the original car.

StopStartMode.jpg


I opted for auto-off mode and no longer have to press the SS button when I turn the ignition on as SS is now auto disable. You can still enjoy the wonders of SS simply by pressing the dash button should you ever feel the need to use it. Be amazed by my quality video, lol.




The Amarok was a little more challenging as the dash buttons are built into the long dash trim which is a pig to remove but I managed it without breaking any plastic clips, scary process.

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Amarok SS loom plugged in place.

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You guessed it another top pro quality video of the Amarok SS auto disabling, happy with that!




For anyone interested my Stop Start gizmos were purchased from AliExpress store VVVWCER here. They will work with both the 8V PFL and FL plus you may find them cheaper from other sellers on AliExpress so shop around and see what you can kind.
 
Last edited:
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Nice find. I've been looking for a solution to the stop/start function. Thanks for sharing.
 
Popped up to Blyton Park a few weeks ago to spectate at the Autograss and did some extreme parking out of the way and had a fellow Audi owner in the same mindset well, hello RS6 goodness.

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The wife and I haven’t been to Autograss before and what a feast for the sensors. They are epic from the junior categories to the nutty twin rear bike engined weapons, comes highly recommend if you have never seen it.

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Having got home I couldn’t leave the dust on the S3 so it got a wash and…

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…the tailpipes were looking unloved so got treated to vigorous rubbing with the Autosol.

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Earlier this month a mate decided to convert his car trailer lights to LED after continually chasing filament bulb faults but he’s not good with wiring so I popped up to help. New smaller LED units were already mounted inside the old modified housings so I got cracking with the snippers and solder.

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Mounted and successfully tested.

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Noticed last week one of the auxiliary cree reverse lights the previous owner had installed on my Amarok had a couple of blown LED. I found they were a WOW LED (what a brand name!) and ordered a pair so I had a spare if the other side should ever fail.

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New light installed and tested prior to heat shrink and tape over the soldered connections.

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Nearside and offside work well when reversing in the dark. They also help compliment the poor reverse light in the Amarok rear light cluster, there’s no excuse if drivers can’t see the extremely bright cree reverse lights :sunglasses:

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@Harvey you're like the energizer bunny, as I presume you have a full time job as well?!
 
As the weather was nice over Easter I thought it prudent to let the GTE have a breather after its Winter slumber.

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Gave it a check over and fired it up with fuel pressure perfect at 2.6bar (38psi) and voltage/coolant temp C & pressure PSI/oil temp C all good after 15 minutes warm up.

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You got to love the original LCD dash, a classic in the Astra mk2. Can you ever have enough RPM gauges!

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Easter Bank Holiday Monday I popped to my first visit to the Harborough Sports & Classic car meet. Lovely machinery there with something for everyone and I’ll definitely be returning for more. A very well organised event and friendly atmosphere with a £3 entry per vehicle all going to a local charity plus an Easter egg raffle this month, alas I wasn’t a winner but my mate did! The pics can do the talking so enjoy.

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As the weather was nice over Easter I thought it prudent to let the GTE have a breather after its Winter slumber.

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Gave it a check over and fired it up with fuel pressure perfect at 2.6bar (38psi) and voltage/coolant temp C & pressure PSI/oil temp C all good after 15 minutes warm up.

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You got to love the original LCD dash, a classic in the Astra mk2. Can you ever have enough RPM gauges!

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Easter Bank Holiday Monday I popped to my first visit to the Harborough Sports & Classic car meet. Lovely machinery there with something for everyone and I’ll definitely be returning for more. A very well organised event and friendly atmosphere with a £3 entry per vehicle all going to a local charity plus an Easter egg raffle this month, alas I wasn’t a winner but my mate did! The pics can do the talking so enjoy.

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Nice to see one again.
Had many GTE’s GSI cars in the 90’s.

Loved them too.


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The wife & I had a Pembrokeshire holbobs last week so obviously planned a visit to Pembury Circuit as we simply can't resist the temptation of motorsport. The Amarok ate up the miles and got us to the accommodation in 5h 10m the day prior.


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The BTRDA British Rallycross Championship was on so action guaranteed all day long. Some decent motors there including a Corsa from my end in Nottingham tuned by AP Racing engines who mapped my GTE. Awesome event and sunshine all day long which continued all week, I’ve returned home with a suntan…from Wales…in April :huh:

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This was a very tidy looking S3 8P parked up in the spectators area.

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Racing action from the day zoom zoom.

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Owners of any mk3 FL 8V will know the Stop/Start can be rather challenging as it kicks in while the vehicle is still moving at 4mph instead of 0mph. This can be very annoying as you might be turning the wheel which suddenly becomes heavy, not actually going to come to a dead stop and just want to then get going. I could go on but I hate it with a passion on my S3, less so on my Amarok as it only activates at 0mph and can be controlled easily with brake pressure, however I still end up manually turning it off via the dash button at start up in both vehicles. I rarely use SS but wanted to retain it should I ever feel the need so tweaking VCDS to disable it permanently wasn’t an option.

I recently stumbled across SS in-line loom adaptors sold on AliExpress thanks to @Potterswheel so took a punt and bought one for my mk3 FL S3 but could only find Amarok equivalent at twice the price. A bit more searching and cross checking and the Golf mk6 uses the same SS switch plug as the Amarok V6, £30 and both looms were ordered and arrived in 8 days.

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They even come with plastic trim tools included, I do have my own but these will no doubt come in handy.

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First, I tackled the S3 and popped the switch panel out using proper removal tools as this can’t be done with plastic trim tools.

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SS in-line loom installed and then I tested all button functions were working correctly prior to refitting the panel.

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The SS in-line adaptor loom let you program the SS button behaviour as follows:
Auto-off mode - Every time the car is started, the start-stop will be automatically turned off. If it is manually turned on it will still be turned off after the car is turned off and locked.
Memory mode - Manually switch the start-stop switch once, and the start-stop state will be saved and memorized at the next ignition cycle.
Service mode (original factory mode) - The effect is the same as the original car.

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I opted for auto-off mode and no longer have to press the SS button when I turn the ignition on as SS is now auto disable. You can still enjoy the wonders of SS simply by pressing the dash button should you ever feel the need to use it. Be amazed by my quality video, lol.




The Amarok was a little more challenging as the dash buttons are built into the long dash trim which is a pig to remove but I managed it without breaking any plastic clips, scary process.

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Amarok SS loom plugged in place.

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You guessed it another top pro quality video of the Amarok SS auto disabling, happy with that!




For anyone interested my Stop Start gizmos were purchased from AliExpress store VVVWCER here. They will work with both the 8V PFL and FL plus you may find them cheaper from other sellers on AliExpress so shop around and see what you can kind.


Thanks for this post - not only did I order one based on it being the same one you’ve used and recommended, so I knew it would work (which isn’t always the case with Ali Express tat) but I was also able to grab a pair of Radio keys prior to it arriving this morning: I wouldn’t have known that was the release mechanism without this post. Installation took literally minutes as a result and mine immediately switched the auto button to “off” without me having to configure it. Everything else on that panel still seems to work, so happy non-stop/start days for me!


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I’ve decided as my Vectra Supertouring 200 is 25yrs this year I’d make an effort to get it on the road as it was last out in 2016.

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Used my fuel can handpump to pop 20L of Shells finest V-Power in the tank before showing it full daylight.

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Turned the engine over without the crank sensor plugged in to build oil pressure and all good before it roared into life…then the fun began….

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At the next start it refused to do anything and I noted the battery light was on even with the ignition key removed. Bit of head scratching/testing/diagnostics and I traced it to a faulty alternator and suspect rectifier issue. I managed to get the car started by removing the 12v feed from the alternator so it was moved under my carport. A few hours later after a wrestle with the car and numerous items removed the alternator was finally free, square pen round hole springs to mind.

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Me being me I wanted to keep the exact same alternator being a Bosch 0123500007 (GM 90508842) 100amp jobbie so I began my research and found a local company in Mansfield who refurbish alternators. Big shout out to Father and Daughter outfit at Rotec Ltd as they tested my alternator for free which confirmed my suspicions of a dead rectifier and believe it or not they had the exact same fully refurbished model ready to go the only one they had so I was extremely lucky. I’ll put this into context as my alternator was only fitted to Vectra V6 1996-98 models so how lucky was I to find one. My plan A was to get them to refurb my alternator but plan B was a winner with a walk-in walk-out exchange plus some pennies.

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To remove the alternator you have to remove the driveshaft so I fashioned a bung to stop the gearbox fluid pouring out. Rather happy with my improvisation as I only lost around 50ml so not even worth topping up the fluid.

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New alternator fitted and more tool improvisation to get the auxiliary belt on/off as the tensioner is strong on these so you need lots of leverage.

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After it was all bolted back together the car was started and I’m very happy to say the idle voltage is good and the issue is sorted. A few more bits to do before it’s on the road but it’s getting there.

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Don’t panic folks as I know this is an Audi forum with all my non-Audi updates recently. The S3 got loved last night with a well deserved wash, polish and seal….yummy.

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Popped over to my mates to give him a hand getting his car ready for hopefully next month but we’re still waiting on the engine builder to complete. Seeing double before we swapped them over. Left garage is the main workshop and right more for storage. F2 was his first build as a 1.4, then a 1.6 and now to get the 2L it deserves and the one we’re prepping.

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Stripped a few bits off F20 prior to swapping them over.

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There is a bit more storage with this being only a quarter of the spares as you can never have too many if it’s for a rally car.

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We then set about sorting the seating positions but this is as far as we’ve got at present.

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Amarok got some loving as the handbrake was getting high due to cable stretch and rear pad wear so got it on the flat and jacked it up which meant I could use my meaty 6T axle stands.

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Adjustment was easy as the setup is old school and no VCDS required, just a 7mm and 10mm ratchet spanner needed. Got it set to 3 clicks and it's holding firm with no pad drag when released, much better than 9 clicks. I do need to touch up the crusty bits on the end of the cable so plan on cleaning it up sooner rather than later.

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I happened to be perusing my favourite auction site and doing some random searches and came across a set of 4x RS3/RS6/RS7/Bentley spark plugs for a bargain price. These are one step cooler than the original S3 plugs I currently run which are due for a change at the next service so I swiftly bought them. They are genuine VAG plugs part no.06K905601M (NGK SILFER8C7ES short code 91006) pre gapped to 0.7mm with copper washer. The official plugs for my MY17 S3 are VAG no.06K905601L (NGK ILFER7C8EG short code 91898) pre gapped to 0.8mm with standard crush washer these have been fitted since new when I checked what was in there last year here.

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Had a good rain storm the other day and the recent S3 polish has worked wonders and it’s beading lovely.

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I happened to be perusing my favourite auction site and doing some random searches and came across a set of 4x RS3/RS6/RS7/Bentley spark plugs for a bargain price. These are one step cooler than the original S3 plugs I currently run which are due for a change at the next service so I swiftly bought them. They are genuine VAG plugs part no.06K905601M (NGK SILFER8C7ES short code 91006) pre gapped to 0.7mm with copper washer. The official plugs for my MY17 S3 are VAG no.06K905601L (NGK ILFER7C8EG short code 91898) pre gapped to 0.8mm with standard crush washer these have been fitted since new when I checked what was in there last year here.

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Had a good rain storm the other day and the recent S3 polish has worked wonders and it’s beading lovely.

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Can’t beat a nice bit of beeding :thumbs up:
 
Something a bit different when a mate asked me to assist him fitting an opening side window to his Transit camper conversion. We started with an unmolested sheet of metal.

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Drilled the corner holes and used an air saw for the long straight cuts.

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Voila, a hole!

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We tidied up the cut edge with files and then used the window fitting kit and primed the cut metal edge leaving it to set prior to adding the edge covering. Dry fitted the window and used a plastic hammer to tap the high spots in before more primer to the body and glass back.

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Glass bond was then applied to the body only using the pre-cut nozzle so a nice peaked 10mm bead was left.

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The glass was then sighted into place and gently pressed so the bond would take before being taped into place and left to set. Extra tape was added to the bottom left to pull the glass in for a snigger fit.

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It only takes an hour for the bond to set but the tape was left overnight and hey presto, it’s not fallen off so we must have done something right!

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Only because I spent 15 years doing it for a living ;) And having had to extrude by hand (with a barrel gun!) when my glue gun had died or broken, I know just how much of a ball-ache (well, hand ache for sure) it can be! Especially in winter :(
 
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