What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
I'm the chap.
I have a pair of metal drive on ramp and could never get up them , the front end would catch almost straight way and run aground.
I swiflty hatched a plan and a solution was fabricated, thus far for the last few years I've been problem free.
I'll wack up some pics in the morning, its an easy mod.
Just for you chap and i'm in a very good mood, I'll duck round to the garage and take a pic for you.
Basically, I butchered ( fabricated..lol) one set of ramps to increase the run-up of my other set.
I made some measurements then chopped my older set up and used both lower sections to make a more Audi B7 user-friendly set of ramps.
An hours work with my arc welder, angle grinder etc, the end result works brilliantly.
not the best pic but you get the basic idea, cost me the grand sum of £5.00
I made some measurements then chopped my older set up and used both lower sections to make a more Audi B7 user-friendly set of ramps.
An hours work with my arc welder, angle grinder etc, the end result works brilliantly.
not the best pic but you get the basic idea, cost me the grand sum of £5.00
Happy New Year Folks!! 
It absopositively HAS to be better than the last one..........
Looking a bit rosier with a Glenmorangie in my hand and a plate of crisps in front of me........
It absopositively HAS to be better than the last one..........
Looking a bit rosier with a Glenmorangie in my hand and a plate of crisps in front of me........
Yeah that's the problem I came across when i looked for you last time Rob, defiantly worth ringing up wheelbase and having a chat, they helped me out so may well help you other than that possibly getting a stud conversion kit and ordering the wheels in an offset that will balance it out?
Not sure Rob, thats what i was looking for the part number for actually. Adaptive would be nice but im not massively fussed if not. I just can't wait to see in the dark!
Trying out the eBay arrivals ,235 35 with 35et ,couldn’t have specified much better
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I had some 3SDM wheels on my E class i got from wheelbase and weren't exactly budget price, the rims alone for 19's were just over a grand and they were utter s**t the diamond cut corroded less than 4 months later so i had to paint them all matt black, they all ended up cracking multiple times and that's when i lived in town so pot holes didn't really exist, i put it down to the near 2 ton weight of the Mercedes but saying that they shouldn't of been available if they cant handle the weight of the car there available for, i even went up a size on the rear profile after the first crack and that ultimately did nothing as every wheel was cracked multiple times after a year.
Trying out the eBay arrivals ,235 35 with 35et ,couldn’t have specified much better
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Hopefully you have better luck mate, fingers crossed for you.
Wow lot to consider there.I only got these as I put an offer in which I didn’t expect to be accepted on an already good price so got them dirt cheap.It was the plan when I bought them to get them refinished/powder coated as they aren’t perfect but I need to speak to the refurbers regarding options and longevity as for the integrity of the wheels I can only hope and pray.I also thought I could move them on for a bit of profit when things had settled down a bit economically for people.I was so surprised to get them for what I did the seller either knows what u just told me or was desperate for cash.
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Yeah i was very disappointed to be honest and made me think twice about buying wheels since and defiantly done my homework on the company if I'm not familiar with them.
Fingers crossed you just got a good bargain and you can make some money off them, keep us updated on how they turn out
Yeah i was very disappointed to be honest and made me think twice about buying wheels since and defiantly done my homework on the company if I'm not familiar with them.
Fingers crossed you just got a good bargain and you can make some money off them, keep us updated on how they turn out
Will do ,appreciate your input it’ll give me and maybe some others something to look out for now and in future
Hopefully I haven’t wasted my cash
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So the 3sdm I’ve bought have a load rating of 815kg compared to the wheels I’ve had on for about a year at 850kg.
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So the owners manual has 1655kg written on in pen on the cover but the technical data shows 1585kg which would put in within allowance of the wheel rating ?
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Well, a change of subject...... I had the car up on the lift yesterday & changed two of the front top link ball joints (I've got adjustable links - the joints can be removed). Got rid of the nasty knocks from the front! 
These are a great idea to deal with camber on the front after lowering suspension - BUT, I have found that the boots on the rearmost arm (both sides) keep getting burst as when turning to full lock, they get pushed hard against the side of the front links. Eventually the boot wears through leading to loss of grease/infusion of grit & eventual (too damn often) joint failure.
Very annoying - I would like to be able to adjust the wheel stop but it's electronic & I can't find any mention of actually adjusting - only 'setting' it (which allows too much turning angle).
If anyone has a method to change the rack turn stops - please let me know. The only way to get these joints is to buy complete Arm sets!
These are a great idea to deal with camber on the front after lowering suspension - BUT, I have found that the boots on the rearmost arm (both sides) keep getting burst as when turning to full lock, they get pushed hard against the side of the front links. Eventually the boot wears through leading to loss of grease/infusion of grit & eventual (too damn often) joint failure.
Very annoying - I would like to be able to adjust the wheel stop but it's electronic & I can't find any mention of actually adjusting - only 'setting' it (which allows too much turning angle).
If anyone has a method to change the rack turn stops - please let me know. The only way to get these joints is to buy complete Arm sets!
Well, a change of subject...... I had the car up on the lift yesterday & changed two of the front top link ball joints (I've got adjustable links - the joints can be removed). Got rid of the nasty knocks from the front!
View attachment 214125
These are a great idea to deal with camber on the front after lowering suspension - BUT, I have found that the boots on the rearmost arm (both sides) keep getting burst as when turning to full lock, they get pushed hard against the side of the front links. Eventually the boot wears through leading to loss of grease/infusion of grit & eventual (too damn often) joint failure.
Very annoying - I would like to be able to adjust the wheel stop but it's electronic & I can't find any mention of actually adjusting - only 'setting' it (which allows too much turning angle).
If anyone has a method to change the rack turn stops - please let me know. The only way to get these joints is to buy complete Arm sets!
Was hoping maybe someone could remove my wafflings so as not to ruin the thread
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Thanks Rob, that's great. It would certainly be a worthwhile mod. As I say I have been on my ramps since lowering, but I'm not sure if I positioned them differently or what. But I struggled to get up a d bashed my valance. No way could I fit a splitter.
I've fitted some carpet strips to my ramps and rivetted them on. The idea is when driving up the wheel sits on the carpet and this prevents the ramp from sliding forward. Works a treat.
(no that wasn't taken in my front room either)
And in other news.
I've eventually got round to fitting my LED number plate lights. I've had a normal one out for ages and was fed up seeing the dash warning about it.
Supposed to be "plug and play", CANBUS compatible, they seem to work ok.
But were more like "file a bit of lens", then "plug and play".
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I've had my led number plate bulb unit things whatever you want to call them in for about a year and half now and they were great fitment wise, just plug and play, my issue is they just don't seem that bright, ones on my previous car were amazing literally lit up the floor and same with ones on the Mrs Zafira there proper bright as well, where mine just look like slightly white bulbs rather than a proper led unit, they don't look bad but next to her car they look like candles.
I have oe items still in my old bus and to be honest they are like matches lost in space , but then why should the number plate be lit up like a neon star..
I'm still waiting for someone to offer a bright, reliable and safe operating temp reversing LED bulb option for the B7 , non of these bulb error special or one that get so hot they melt other bits.
Once you put led number plate units in you wont want to go back, look so much cleaner and up to date at night, same principal as changing the yellow headlight bulbs from the 80's
So it seems I'm searching for a golden fleece now, none to be found for my application , well not in silver.....
I've aborted the D2's aswell so plan c now.
Is that the superturismos in the first pic (silver)? I think they will suit your car better Rob
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