Best tyre size for S3 8P

[Bryant1998]

My S3 needs new tyres in the next month or two, running continental contact sport 5’s at the moment, they’ve been fine but I want to upgrade to either PS4’s or PS4S’s.

Seen plenty of debate threads on the best tyres but wondered what the best size would be? It’s not my daily so noise or comfort aren’t an issue, it’s my toy

Just want to see what sizes everyone else is running and their opinions, also I’m running the stock 18’s, 7.5j I believe? If you think you can tempt me into buying different wheels, shoot your shot I’m easily persuaded...

 

[nluk100]

I don't think you can get the PS4S in 18s? PS4's are a good tyre but the new goodyear f1 assy 5 are getting some good reviews too.

 

[J0N]

If there’s one thing internet car pages and forums have taught me, it’s ‘do not’ get involved in tyre debates haha.


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[Bryant1998]

I don't think you can get the PS4S in 18s? PS4's are a good tyre but the new goodyear f1 assy 5 are getting some good reviews too.

Yeah I’m set on getting the Michelin’s, just curious about tyre sizing, wider, lower profile etc

 

[Bryant1998]

If there’s one thing internet car pages and forums have taught me, it’s ‘do not’ get involved in tyre debates haha.


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Im after tyre SIZE recommendations, not brands... spent hours last night searching this forum and could only find arguments about brands, not any sizing info sadly

 

[J0N]

Im after tyre SIZE recommendations, not brands... spent hours last night searching this forum and could only find arguments about brands, not any sizing info sadly

See, I’m in an argument already


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[Bryant1998]

See, I’m in an argument already


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Brilliant

On a serious note tho, any opinions on tyre sizing lol

 

[nluk100]

Well there is only one recommended size for your wheels (225/40/18) - anything wider (even 235) could rub at the back depending on your suspension / rear load. Lots of ppl have tried it and either put up with the rubbing or swap back. Changing the profile will affect your speedo and ride quality even more (if you're thinking of a lower profile?)

 

[Bryant1998]

Well there is only one recommended size for your wheels (225/40/18) - anything wider (even 235) could rub at the back depending on your suspension / rear load. Lots of ppl have tried it and either put up with the rubbing or swap back. Changing the profile will affect your speedo and ride quality even more (if you're thinking of a lower profile?)

Ah that’s annoying about the speedo, I was hoping going 225/30/18 might help with cornering a bit so there’s less roll. So basically if I get 19’s with low profile tyres that match current overall size, speedo won’t be affected?
Or is it just better to go for 225/40/18 and get new springs&shocks and some arb’s?

Quite like these wheels, would get them sprayed black and wrap in PS4’s or PS4S’s

 

[Bryant1998]

 

[nluk100]

They will fit but I'm guessing they're not genuine by the offset / width?? Plus they need a refurb and new tyres so are pricey for what they are. They will be heavy too. The PS4's have a stiff sidewall and with std suspension (25mm lower front springs) and H&R ARBs I found the handling great. Just make sure you get a hunter alignment carried out.

 

[Bryant1998]

They will fit but I'm guessing they're not genuine by the offset / width?? Plus they need a refurb and new tyres so are pricey for what they are. They will be heavy too. The PS4's have a stiff sidewall and with std suspension (25mm lower front springs) and H&R ARBs I found the handling great. Just make sure you get a hunter alignment carried out.

I’ll stick with current setup then and order tyres soon, just seen someone post arb’s so will probably buy them if they’re decent price!

 

[Bloxham]

A4 wheels are the wrong centre bore for the A3/S3 - you'd need spigot rings, although the offset also looks wrong.

 

[prt57]

It is true the PS4 tyres have stiff side walls. I fitted 4 to my Mk 4 Golf and it felt far too harsh. However, they do soften up with time and now no issues at all. I talked about it with the chap who runs the local tyre place and he said that tyres that come off a car are softer, more pliable than the same new tyre.

 

[J0N]

My S3 needs new tyres in the next month or two, running continental contact sport 5’s at the moment, they’ve been fine but I want to upgrade to either PS4’s or PS4S’s.

Seen plenty of debate threads on the best tyres but wondered what the best size would be? It’s not my daily so noise or comfort aren’t an issue, it’s my toy

Just want to see what sizes everyone else is running and their opinions, also I’m running the stock 18’s, 7.5j I believe? If you think you can tempt me into buying different wheels, shoot your shot I’m easily persuaded...

Have you seen this??

https://www.willtheyfit.com/wheels/


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[Bryant1998]

Have you seen this??

https://www.willtheyfit.com/wheels/


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Not seen that before, looks good, seen similar but not that one, what’s the offset for our wheels?

 

[Bryant1998]

It is true the PS4 tyres have stiff side walls. I fitted 4 to my Mk 4 Golf and it felt far too harsh. However, they do soften up with time and now no issues at all. I talked about it with the chap who runs the local tyre place and he said that tyres that come off a car are softer, more pliable than the same new tyre.

See I’d rather they’re stiff, want it to corner like it did when I got it 18months ago

Yeah they’re always going to soften over time, probably why these continental contact sport 5’s are feeling bouncy. But then again I did have my A3 on coilovers and that was the most planted thing I’ve ever driven tbh, everything seems bouncy to that

 

[J0N]

Not seen that before, looks good, seen similar but not that one, what’s the offset for our wheels?

From memory I think they’re ET50


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[SootySport]

All fine and dandy if you fit 30 profile tyres, as long as you can put up with the incorrect speedo reading. One big minus is hitting the smallest of potholes and damaging the wheel rim itself, there’s plenty of performance BMW, Mercedes owners out there that had to buy a new wheel or two.

 

[Bryant1998]

Think I’ll stick to standard sizing now, picking up H&R ARB’s Wednesday and will wait for springs&shocks or coilovers to go on sale.

Don’t have the energy to deal with cracking alloys, the roads round me are beyond sh!t, you’d think our roads had been paved with grenades

 

[Bryant1998]

Don’t suppose anyone’s got recommendations on springs, springs&shocks or coilovers?
Ideally weighing up cost vs performance
Currently running the same springs and shocks it left the factory with.

Happy to spend the money if it’s worth it, my £300 coilovers on my A3 were great, but I wouldn’t trust them on my S3... too much power and 4WD confidence to trust cheap parts on

 

[J0N]

I really don’t want to be a killjoy here and I’ve been attacked on less intelligent pages in the past for this view. Its only my opinion but I like the OEM suspension and think Audi made a really good job (it’s worth noting that my car is my daily driver). It’s true that the S3 sits a bit high on the front in terms of wheel arch gap but that’s my only gripe. I’m also not fan of cheap coil overs on higher performance cars, they’re great for achieving a certain look which is fine and I’d never, ever knock anyone for the mods they choose, I was around in the days of bleed valves *** haha. Decent coil overs with adjustable bump and rebound are upwards of £800 and even race teams can fail to set them up properly. I think the best compromise is probably lowering springs from a reputable company with matched dampers. Say Eibach or H&R with Billstein shocks??


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[nluk100]

I fitted Eibach front only springs to make the ride height equal and in conjunction with H&R ARBs and a decent alignment had no complaints on handling or ride comfort. Agree that cheap coilovers may look good but can ruin the ride quality & handling.

 

[J0N]

This might just be the recommendation our man is looking for?? Eibach have been on the go for years....


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[Bryant1998]

I nearly bought the eibachs on Black Friday but when I found they’re only the front I left it. Still on original springs and shocks so I’d want to do all 4 so it’s all fresh

 

[J0N]

I’ve just replaced my front springs and top mounts with OEM because I broke the N/S one, to be fair they were 10 years old. The good news is they’re easy to work on, I fitted Eibachs to my old A4 S-Line and that was a horrendous task. With the new springs/mounts, recent drop links and Revo transmission and gearbox mounts the car feels transformed and all the rattles going over the bumps have disappeared.

If you’re changing them yourself, invest in a decent set of spline drives if you haven’t already.....


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[Bryant1998]

I’ve just replaced my front springs and top mounts with OEM because I broke the N/S one, to be fair they were 10 years old. The good news is they’re easy to work on, I fitted Eibachs to my old A4 S-Line and that was a horrendous task. With the new springs/mounts, recent drop links and Revo transmission and gearbox mounts the car feels transformed and all the rattles going over the bumps have disappeared.

If you’re changing them yourself, invest in a decent set of spline drives if you haven’t already.....


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Think I’ll see how it handles with arb’s and wait for springs and shocks to go on sale and replace the whole lot, must be tired after 10 years.

What sort of rattles did you have? I’ve got an annoying chatter that I think is coming from the dmf but nothing else

Think there’s some spline drives in the garage from when I was messing with the A3 coilovers

 

[J0N]

I can only describe the rattle as like something sounding loose?? I took the wheel off and nothing was hanging off so I changed the drop links. One of them was definitely ready but it’s difficult to tell while they’re still fitted. My engine mounts felt loose as hell when I removed them but to be honest I don’t know what new ones feel like and again they were 10 years old. The Revo’s are brilliant and I got them for an absolute steal off eBay. I’ll do the pendulum mount next as at the moment I’m only running the Powerflex insert that came with my downpipe. Everything feels lovely and tight now....

You’ll need spline drives for the drop links and for the hub carrier where it holds the strut.


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[Bryant1998]

I can only describe the rattle as like something sounding loose?? I took the wheel off and nothing was hanging off so I changed the drop links. One of them was definitely ready but it’s difficult to tell while they’re still fitted. My engine mounts felt loose as hell when I removed them but to be honest I don’t know what new ones feel like and again they were 10 years old. The Revo’s are brilliant and I got them for an absolute steal off eBay. I’ll do the pendulum mount next as at the moment I’m only running the Powerflex insert that came with my downpipe. Everything feels lovely and tight now....

You’ll need spline drives for the drop links and for the hub carrier where it holds the strut.


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Well at least you’re sorted now mate, so many thing I want to put on this car but for now getting a house is priority.
Treating myself to these arb’s but this will probably be the biggest thing I’ll do for a while, major service soon, haldex service etc, going to concentrate on keeping it running smooth until the time is right to add more performance stuff.

Think exhaust and fuel pump will be next alongside stage2+ map, or just stage 2 map if pump is too expensive at the time

 

[J0N]

Think exhaust and fuel pump will be next alongside stage2+ map, or just stage 2 map if pump is too expensive at the time

I hear ya, all the above is expensive, I had a big spend on mine just before Christmas. I bought a Milltek DP with 200 cell sports cat because the flexi on my stock exhaust was blowing. This needed a Stage 2 so I got the Autotech internals and RS4 FPRV while I was at it. I’m also due a service and MOT....it never ends.



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[Bryant1998]

I hear ya, all the above is expensive, I had a big spend on mine just before Christmas. I bought a Milltek DP with 200 cell sports cat because the flexi on my stock exhaust was blowing. This needed a Stage 2 so I got the Autotech internals and RS4 FPRV while I was at it. I’m also due a service and MOT....it never ends.



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Yeah I’m thinking I’ll do stage 2+ by the end of the year, I’ve got the revo cai and toyosports fmic so just need exhaust and fuel pump bits and a remap, not that 330+bhp feels slow but more power will be fun with the extra noise too

I was thinking of just getting downpipe or buying a used milltek but looks like I’ll get a custom turboback from deutschtech, might be a xmas present to myself if we’ve bought a house by then lol

 

[J0N]

Yeah I’m thinking I’ll do stage 2+ by the end of the year, I’ve got the revo cai and toyosports fmic so just need exhaust and fuel pump bits and a remap, not that 330+bhp feels slow but more power will be fun with the extra noise too

I was thinking of just getting downpipe or buying a used milltek but looks like I’ll get a custom turboback from deutschtech, might be a xmas present to myself if we’ve bought a house by then lol

My tuner doesn’t do 2+ but they’re 3 miles from my house and look after all my servicing. I’ve been going to them for years and have always had great service, 4WD dyno too. I made 349 hp and 385 ft lbs.


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[Bryant1998]

My tuner doesn’t do 2+ but they’re 3 miles from my house and look after all my servicing. I’ve been going to them for years and have always had great service, 4WD dyno too. I made 349 hp and 385 ft lbs.


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Don’t blame you mate, wish there was someone decent round me but never hear anything good about them, that doesn’t sound like much for stage 2 to me? I’m at 330+bhp and 480+nm on stage 1 before it had cai or better fmic

 

[J0N]

It’s about right I reckon. Also, my Haldex wasn’t disconnected for the tune...


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[Bryant1998]

Ah fair enough, I thought it was closer to 380bhp with the fuel pump stuff, I’ve got no idea if my haldex was disconnected, was tuned at AMD if anyone on here knows if they’ve got a 4wd dyno?

 

[J0N]

It’s easy to get hung up on figures but the truth is that rolling road dynamometers can only measure power at the wheels. The end figure is generally a calculation to give you the power at the crank or flywheel. It’s the curve on the graph and the way the power is delivered that’s important and can be tailored to the customer’s requirements. Some people want fast launches, others want more mid range.


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[J0N]

Did you choose your tyre size by the way haha...


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[Bryant1998]

Yeah very true, can’t imagine you’re finding it slow lol.
That’s my map

Yes mate I’ll stick with standard sizing, just gonna wait for some deals or until current tyres are goners

 

[nluk100]

That dyno is way off. I've not seen any std car make more than 260bhp on an accurate dyno. You can basically knock off 30bhp from stage 1 figure so it's around 300-305bhp which is about right for a stage 1 car. Std torque is 350Nm btw.

 

[Bryant1998]

That dyno is way off. I've not seen any std car make more than 260bhp on an accurate dyno. You can basically knock off 30bhp from stage 1 figure so it's around 300-305bhp which is about right for a stage 1 car. Std torque is 350Nm btw.

You sure? 90% of dyno runs I’ve seen put these around 270/290 bhp stock? Maybe previous owner had cai on it before he sold it to me?

I did speak to amd and ask if it’s worth getting the map tweaked now it’s got cai and fmic but they said to leave it until I’ve got exhaust as it’s already a very strong map