Spark plugs, coil packs, misfires and heat!

Ricky Burrows

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Need some advice my friends, the car started misfiring last night got worse this morning with popping banging bad fuel consumption very lumpy down low all the usual misfire symptoms its been plugged into a scanner and coming back that coil pack 4 is faulty and advised the plugs need changing, so first question is what are the best spark plugs for the 2.0 tfsi special edition? Standard tune no mapping has been done, and secondly it started smoking in traffic on the way home and i had a look under the bonnet and i seen this!
E96F0A9A 6B7D 43DB B147 C8DE2848383A

116DD961 CBAD 423C 8757 A86EEDEA16D1
Is that normal for a misfiring car stuck in traffic for about 10 minutes? Or have i got bigger issues?
 
The coil packs were a recall repair so check with audi to see if yours has been done as they will have a record of it, if your lucky you may get some nice new ones free.
You have a leak around the valve cover seal, very common on these engine when the rubber gasket dries out through age and heat it starts to weep, get's onto the hot exhaust etc and then burns off , hence the smoke.
I have 4 nearly new oem plugs you can have for the postage Ricky, not use to me .
 
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The problem now ricky is that you have mentioned letting the car go and its got wind of it, now playing up like a naughty child.
 
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also have 4 nearly new revised coil packs here if that help.
 
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Lol Rob yeah your right i should of kept it quiet or not told the car my log in details! Lol

Ahh brilliant ill take the plugs and coils from you mate thank you pm me the details and ill send the money over.

As for the valve cover seal ill get one ordered tomorrow and get that sorted as well at the same time.
 
If the VC has not been off for some time it will come off like this....
IMG 0650
 
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Theres a chance your cat could be blocked, it's pretty hot that down pipe

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Theres a chance your cat could be blocked, it's pretty hot that down pipe

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

I don't think Ricky has had any other issues like this to date , a blocked cat would have possibly shown up prior with other issues leading upto the current problem.
 
That's cool, I dont recall my downpipe getting that hot before, i have noticed the turbo glowing.

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Hopefully its not i couldn’t imagine them being cheap, but as Rob said i haven't had any issues before this so i kinda gather its just running really lean and alot of unburnt fuel in there probably hence the loud pops and bangs as well
 
some guys will pay for pops and bangs..:yes:
If by some chance you need another cat, I have one aswell, not free though.
 
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PM me your details Ricky , I'm at home tomorrow so could very possibly get things sent out during the day.
 
4 x coil packs (revised ones)
4 x oem plugs.

Should help you out.:icon thumright:

IMG 0026
IMG 0027
 
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A misfiring engine will cause excessive heating in the cat.
when there is a presence of an extra rich fuel mixture due to the misfire condition , the raw fuel enters the cat and is ignited which in turn causes the cat to overheat.
 
Coil packs and plugs made no difference still runs like a pile of s**t really lumpy low down hesitant throttle no power sounds like its still misfiring as well, any ideas? Would a failed cat really make it run this bad? Or is it something else all together.
 
have you run vcds yet to get a better overview of what is going on, if the first scan said coil pack and it still doing it after replacing then the scan data was possibly incorrect or was missing other issues.
could still be the cat but I find it hard to except it has just failed now on the spur of the moment without any other issues prior.
 
Did you any dash warning lamps pop up ricky, and does it idle normally .
 
Take the spark plugs out and check if one is wet if so then crank the engine over to see if there is excessive fuel coming out the top of the cylinder, it could be a failed injector pouring fuel into the cylinder and causing a misfire.
 
Take the spark plugs out and check if one is wet if so then crank the engine over to see if there is excessive fuel coming out the top of the cylinder, it could be a failed injector pouring fuel into the cylinder and causing a misfire.
The plugs i took out all looked wet almost oily
 
Have you done another scan?? Does it still show number 4?? Could be injector faulty or burnt out valve
 
They all look pretty bad, and the engine is most certainly running very rich on all cylinders.
I think the best plan rather than just offering possible causes would be to get an accurate vcds scan and see what the faults show up as, it wont be just one either.
Possibly one or both lambda sensors are on the blink , since they control the final fuel trims when the car is running one or both on the blink maybe be a possible cause for the black carbon covered plugs and wet plugs.
If they are very oily then you have oil being sucked in , maybe why you saw smoking aswell.
could be rings but if all are oily that suggest oil is being drawn in at the intake point , cant see all the cylinder rings being worn to that degree.
You do really need a decent scan of all engine parameters asap to get to the bottom of it, advise is free from members but it's never going to be anywhere near as accurate as decent diagnostics.

good luck chap.
 
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Double check you MAF sensor is plugged in , also part of the equation as it monitors airflow inwards for fuel mixture trim aswell.
To be honest ricky the problem could be one of a few things or several combined.
 
Thanks for all the advice like you said Rob really can be anything i didn’t realise how much things could be, Ive booked it in to have the vcds scanner on it and hopefully that pings up the issue knowing its come out of know where im still hoping it’s something minor....hopefully!
 
Just nip out ricky and unplug the maf sensor and see how it runs with it unplugged.
 
Just nip out ricky and unplug the maf sensor and see how it runs with it unplugged.
I would but I've abandoned the car at my work lol i don't want to drive it at the moment incase i hurt the old girl more lol ill try it tomorrow and see what happens :) thanks Rob
 
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It's worth a go Ricky and cost zippo.
last year I was messing around with the intake ,put it all back but in the rush didn't reconnect the MAF plug , and the old bus did not like it one bit.
spluttered , eml lamp on and just generally rough running idling etc.
Soon as reconnected all was well again, just a though ricky in case your MAF is playing up or similar, worth a look .
 
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It's worth a go Ricky and cost zippo.
last year I was messing around with the intake ,put it all back but in the rush didn't reconnect the MAF plug , and the old bus did not like it one bit.
spluttered , eml lamp on and just generally rough running idling etc.
Soon as reconnected all was well again, just a though ricky in case your MAF is playing up or similar, worth a look .
Thank you I’ll definitely give it a go, just to clarify if i unplug it what should I expect to see if it’s already running bad? Is there anything i need to look put for to show the maf sensor is ok?
 
Asssuming it is connected , unplug it and then start the beast up, see if there is any improvement at all .
If there is any improvement or noticible improvement it will tend to indicate an issue with the maf sensor etc , if there is no change then its another item to cross of the list as being to blame or partly to blame.
If by some chance it has become detached then reconnect it and see what occurs.
All a process of illimination .
 
Does this sound similar to your car ricky.

The typical signs of a faulty oxygen sensor include increased exhaust emissions due to poor air fuel mixture, engine hesitations, engine misfires, stalling, rough idling and increased fuel consumption.

or

These are the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor:

  • Engine stalling, almost immediately after starting the car. Since the engine CPU can’t measure the amount of airflow, the engine will stall immediately after starting the car.
  • Lack of power and poor acceleration. If the engine CPU is unable to correctly measure the air flow, it will assume the engine needs more fuel and will switch to a rich air/fuel ratio. This will not only result in poor MPG, but your car will feel lethargic and slow.
  • Unstable idling, especially when the A/C is on. There are a lot of causes of unstable idling, but a bad MAF sensor is one of them. If you turn on the A/C, the engine will need to adjust the idling speed of the engine. If the MAF sensor is not working properly, the engine will have a hard time to maintain a stable idling speed.
  • Engine hiccup. This condition is usually caused by dirty or fouled spark plugs and a dirty throttle body, but this is also a symptom of a bad MAF sensor.
  • Unable to start the car, even after turning the engine for a couple of times. This is usually indicated by a check engine light on the dash.
 
Does this sound similar to your car ricky.

The typical signs of a faulty oxygen sensor include increased exhaust emissions due to poor air fuel mixture, engine hesitations, engine misfires, stalling, rough idling and increased fuel consumption.

or

These are the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor:

  • Engine stalling, almost immediately after starting the car. Since the engine CPU can’t measure the amount of airflow, the engine will stall immediately after starting the car.
  • Lack of power and poor acceleration. If the engine CPU is unable to correctly measure the air flow, it will assume the engine needs more fuel and will switch to a rich air/fuel ratio. This will not only result in poor MPG, but your car will feel lethargic and slow.
  • Unstable idling, especially when the A/C is on. There are a lot of causes of unstable idling, but a bad MAF sensor is one of them. If you turn on the A/C, the engine will need to adjust the idling speed of the engine. If the MAF sensor is not working properly, the engine will have a hard time to maintain a stable idling speed.
  • Engine hiccup. This condition is usually caused by dirty or fouled spark plugs and a dirty throttle body, but this is also a symptom of a bad MAF sensor.
  • Unable to start the car, even after turning the engine for a couple of times. This is usually indicated by a check engine light on the dash.
Sounds like a mixture of both tbh bit more leaning towards the o2 sensor, it just and i mean only just about ticks over sometimes it goes to die and wakes up again it but yeah more or leas sounds like both.
 
It could be one or several failed or failing parts but wont be plugs or coilpacks now.
could even be a failed or failing pcv assembly as this will show similar symptoms.
Full scan is the only reliable diag really and Ricky's got that organised now.
 
Yes, full scan and/or an experienced troubleshooter with access to the car.

So far about 37 different parts have been named in this thread as possible or likely culprits. Internet mechanics can be more of a hinderance than help, sometimes.
 

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