Forge BOV help

[Zans]

Hello,
I installed a forge bov today ton my s3 APY but i have 2 problems:
-how many "clicks" (how tight does the spring has to be?) do i have to give it to match the stock diverter valve? I read somewhere that 16 clicks from the unscrewed position help it match stock boost, but now the second issue
-right after i installed it with the spri g tightened at 16 clicks i got 3 warning lights on my dash , ESP ABS and fault in the brake system. I let the car run for 10 mins then shut it off and then back on but the problem stayed. Now i replaced it with the old diverter valve and did the same procedure as before but nothing changed. So now i got 3 warning lights with the stock diverter valve.

Anyone got an idea on what to do next?

The bov I'm talking about:

https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/The_Splitter_a_Recirculation_and_Blow_Off_Valve--product--793.html

 

[<tuffty/>]

Fault codes would be useful... And not using an atmos valve would be another idea as they are not suitable for standard VAG engine management

Splir-r is a rubbish valve... It's neither a good atmos valve or a dv vakve and just leaks like a sieve causing potential fuelling issues that the ecu has to attempt to deal with

<tuffty/>

 

[Zans]

Fault codes would be useful... And not using an atmos valve would be another idea as they are not suitable for standard VAG engine management

Splir-r is a rubbish valve... It's neither a good atmos valve or a dv vakve and just leaks like a sieve causing potential fuelling issues that the ecu has to attempt to deal with

<tuffty/>

Thanks a lot!
The computer isn't throwing any fault codes (obd scanner) . I plan on using it as a hybrid valve and act as a boost controler. Any idea on what could cause the esp/abs/brake warnings?

 

[<tuffty/>]

I plan on using it as a hybrid valve and act as a boost controler.

I assume this is a joke

If there is a light on the dash then there will be an associated code... not sure what you are using to read the codes with but VCDS would be the best bet to get any codes out of the ECU/ABS modules

<tuffty/>

 

[Zans]

I assume this is a joke

If there is a light on the dash then there will be an associated code... not sure what you are using to read the codes with but VCDS would be the best bet to get any codes out of the ECU/ABS modules

<tuffty/>

Boost limiter i meant (since i can actuate how much boost it discharges)
I'm Using an obd2 interface and I'm not sure it can show all fault codes. I'll be taking it to a friend today with a vag com cable to thoughtfully check for any error codes

 

[AlexA4Avant]

Did you disconnect the battery when you fitted your valve. If you did you just need to drive it a little way and it should reset the them. My Octavia does the same thing when the battery has been disconnected.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

[<tuffty/>]

Boost limiter i meant (since i can actuate how much boost it discharges)

How do you plan to do that?

Boost control from the ECU is via the N75... by opening up the DV/BOV to vent air to control boost (assuming this is what you are suggesting) then you will just cause AFR to run over rich as the air is already metered by the ECU and has calculated injector duty accordingly...

By taking air away after the metering you will just cause loads more running issues..

Seriously... the split-r is quite possibly the cr@ppist thing on the market... if you must have shiney then use a Forge 007/008 which is at least designed to work with closed air system...

Don't know why you feel you need to use a BOV for boost control at all because its not designed for that at all...

<tuffty/>

 

[Zans]

How do you plan to do that?

Boost control from the ECU is via the N75... by opening up the DV/BOV to vent air to control boost (assuming this is what you are suggesting) then you will just cause AFR to run over rich as the air is already metered by the ECU and has calculated injector duty accordingly...

By taking air away after the metering you will just cause loads more running issues..

Seriously... the split-r is quite possibly the cr@ppist thing on the market... if you must have shiney then use a Forge 007/008 which is at least designed to work with closed air system...

Don't know why you feel you need to use a BOV for boost control at all because its not designed for that at all...

<tuffty/>

Thanks!
I Didn't know the ecu calculated fueling according to the n75 valve. So you're right this was a bad idea. Thanks for the help!

 

[Zans]

Did you disconnect the battery when you fitted your valve. If you did you just need to drive it a little way and it should reset the them. My Octavia does the same thing when the battery has been disconnected.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply!
I Did disconnect the battery while doing that, i hope it fixes itself

 

[<tuffty/>]

Didn't know the ecu calculated fueling according to the n75 valve

Thats not what I said dude... air is metered from the MAF and the ECU uses that to calculate fuelling... the N75 is used by the ECU to control the wastegate of the turbo which controls boost

As your engine code is APY airleaks are particularly bad as the ECU is blind on AFR conditions outside of idle or light part throttle loading... if you put your foot down your narrow band lambda control is off so the ECU cannot see if its going rich (or lean) and adjust accordingly...

<tuffty/>

 

[AlexA4Avant]

That should do


Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

[Zans]

Thats not what I said dude... air is metered from the MAF and the ECU uses that to calculate fuelling... the N75 is used by the ECU to control the wastegate of the turbo which controls boost

As your engine code is APY airleaks are particularly bad as the ECU is blind on AFR conditions outside of idle or light part throttle loading... if you put your foot down your narrow band lambda control is off so the ECU cannot see if its going rich (or lean) and adjust accordingly...

<tuffty/>

Sorry i misunderstood what you said

What airleaks does my car have? Anything i should check / change for reliability?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Anything with a pipe connected to the charge air system can leak... typically all the ones under the inlet manifold for the PCV system

A smoke test would highlight most leaks from split pipes etc...

<tuffty/>

 

[Zans]

Anything with a pipe connected to the charge air system can leak... typically all the ones under the inlet manifold for the PCV system

A smoke test would highlight most leaks from split pipes etc...

<tuffty/>

Tanks a lot!