My Belated build thread

Having spoke to Bill this morning, I’m going to clean up the valve as it looks a little misty with oil. But I’ll be getting a new tensioner kit fitted for piece of mind when it goes in.

I can still drive the car which is good. As long as it’s not chatter like teeth on a cold day.

Onwards and upwards


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That's good to can still drive it and it's only a tensioner kit needed to sort it.
On to a different thing. With your colour mfa have you used the torque setting to see if it matchs what it did on Bill's rollers? I was only thinking it would be good to see how close they are.
 
hydro s3 said:
That's good to can still drive it and it's only a tensioner kit needed to sort it.
On to a different thing. With your colour mfa have you used the torque setting to see if it matchs what it did on Bill's rollers? I was only thinking it would be good to see how close they are.
Click to expand...

The ColorMFA is good mate, I did put it on torque but it’s actually difficult staring at it and driving in a straight line haha. It’s in Nm instead of ft/lbs... but I got around 398nm before loosing focus. So wouldn’t be far off, I think my cars roughly 420nm.


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U don't need to watch it mate. It starts automatically when u get up to 1000rpm and then stops when u get to 7000rpms and it holds it on a graph for you.
 
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hydro s3 said:
U don't need to watch it mate. It starts automatically when u get up to 1000rpm and then stops when u get to 7000rpms and it holds it on a graph for you.
Click to expand...

Ohhhhh that torque thing, no not done that haha I was going off live readings. Not done the acceleration thing either yet. Will do once the cars all squared away and happily working


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It's pretty good mate to use. This is mine a few months ago.
Screenshot 20190423 222608 Gallery
 
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Just so you don't think it's only you that's been having problems with a new build.........

I've had to replace a crank seal after trying to trace a oil leak, I started with the easy one 1st being the inlet cam seal then the exhaust cam seal before finally finding it was the crank seal..........then my egt sensor gave up on me & the latest one is the plastic water pipe that has four ports on it decided it get a hair line crack & lose coolant....this is all within 250 miles since I fitted my engine so your not alone mate have a hug from me I feel the pain lol
 
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Thanks for the support mate haha, honestly I don’t mind if some things give up, sensors, etc. It’s all expected with the age of the car.... just didn’t expect them to go all at once.

At least by the end of it, everything will have been replaced and theoretically.... it’ll be better than a newer car!

Think about it, you could pick up a RS3 8P cheaply, but I bet you would fork out half again on it in repairs, etc with 2-3 years!

Our cars should out live those cars, well that’s what I’m hoping for :D


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audi upgrades
badger5 said:
you think you have issues the 8L, lol, tfsi 8p engine's a minefield... crappy things
Click to expand...

Going by what you were telling me the other week mate.... yeah sounds like a nightmare. Don’t make them like they use to haha


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On a different note, I’ve looked into my P0011 code over advanced timing. Block 093 is showing the cam stuck at -13 where this should be close to 0.

I’m still yet to pull my N205 valve out of the head and give it a clean. This is my first point of call. Driven the car for another 100 miles no chain rattling, car pulls hard still through the gears, idles fine as well.

I’m hoping it’s just the N205 gunked up or needs replacing instead of the whole tensioner.

Does anyone know what the part number is for the N205? I’ve looked on parts diagram and can’t seem to find it :/


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Cars booked into Badger5 2nd June for additional works. :D

Toyo Type B (wellycooler) setup
Inspection of exhaust to see if we can get it quieter, potentially adding an additional silencer.
Interchangeable 200 cell cat on V-bands
Secondary water meth injection setup (post throttle body)
Potentially replacing the timing chain tensioner unit....

Big question is.... at this stage, should I push the boat out and go for the Ignitron ECU? To maximise all the benefits of everything fitted to the car with all the safety benefits of the ECU, etc.

What do you guys think?


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Don't know much of that ignitron ecu but what I've read of anyone using it have all said it's well worth the money. So I suppose if funds will allow it then probably worth getting it.
Why have you decided to go twin nozzle on the wmi? Will there be much benifet in it?
That sport's cat on a v-band is a good idea I think it might be worth looking into myself.
 
hydro s3 said:
Don't know much of that ignitron ecu but what I've read of anyone using it have all said it's well worth the money. So I suppose if funds will allow it then probably worth getting it.
Why have you decided to go twin nozzle on the wmi? Will there be much benifet in it?
That sport's cat on a v-band is a good idea I think it might be worth looking into myself.
Click to expand...

Reasoning behind the secondary water meth nozzle is mainly to aid with bringing down some engine knock picked up by the knock sensors, increases octane more so. The post Intercooler nozzle generally helps the IAT’s mate.

My understanding with the Ignitron ECU, it’ll squeeze all the last bits of power that the ME7.5 can’t do.... a fine tune if you like. Something else that helps with any knock as well, hone in on the important stuff. Not just any random vibration the sensors pick up.


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As for power/drivability ignitron will not let you down. ColorMFA compatibilty is not yet verified though.
 
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baliszoft said:
As for power/drivability ignitron will not let you down. ColorMFA compatibilty is not yet verified though.
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me! I don’t mind being the test mule to see if it works with ColorMFA ;) haha



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hydro s3 said:
Is this the kind of spacer you need for the wmi nozzle to go in post throttle body?View attachment 181558
Click to expand...

That’s the one mate, I can’t seem to find any others, so that’s the one I’ve bought. If your planning to get one, get it direct from Creation Motorsports website. It’s actually cheaper and you know it’s not a knock off. I saw there were 2 for the 1.8t 1 of them states “NEW” above it. That’s the one I’ve gone for, I think the original had to be modified slightly in order to fit the nozzle deep enough.


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I had the spacer plate from creation, it came with the wmi kit I bought but the depth the nozzle sat in the plate wasnt ideal as it was recessed by a few mm which isn't good for atomisation, if you imagine the boost pressure hitting it as it exits the outlet from the spacer plate it'll just dribble against it rather than a nice spray pattern which is what you want for better atomisation.

If they've changed the design of the plate now & the nozzle now sits flush you can forget what I've just said and carry on as you were chaps lol
 
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ADs3 said:
I had the spacer plate from creation, it came with the wmi kit I bought but the depth the nozzle sat in the plate wasnt ideal as it was recessed by a few mm which isn't good for atomisation, if you imagine the boost pressure hitting it as it exits the outlet from the spacer plate it'll just dribble against it rather than a nice spray pattern which is what you want for better atomisation.

If they've changed the design of the plate now & the nozzle now sits flush you can forget what I've just said and carry on as you were chaps lol
Click to expand...

I’ll give everyone an update on this when it turns up next week :)


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Yeah a update on if it fits the nozzle would be great. I sort of following what you are doing with the meth kit. So I'd like to get my 2 meth nozzles in at the same time.
If you don't mind when ur next out at your car would you get a picture of where your 1st nozzle has went.
 
audi upgrades
hydro s3 said:
Yeah a update on if it fits the nozzle would be great. I sort of following what you are doing with the meth kit. So I'd like to get my 2 meth nozzles in at the same time.
If you don't mind when ur next out at your car would you get a picture of where your 1st nozzle has went.
Click to expand...

Yeah mate, my first nozzle is kind of out of sight. Basically it’s half way between the end of the Intercooler and the map sensor hard pipe. Has to be in an alloy pipe section with a 1/8” screw in welded boss I believe.


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hydro s3 said:
Something like this mate are you talking about? View attachment 181698
Click to expand...

Yeah just like that mate, you’ll need to make sure the injector nozzle is going in deep enough, like mentioned above with the issue with the creation Motorsport sandwich plate. If it doesn’t go in flush it’ll cause the nozzle to drip rather than fine spray as it catches on the walls.


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Small update guys.... so turns out the “NEW” version of the water meth sandwich plate adapter is no different to the original. Still requires some small modifications.

My advice would be to find a suitable nozzle holder that can be sunk into the sandwich plate to make sure your nozzle goes in deep enough.

I’ve bought a 90 degree holder from “coolingmistUK” the owner “Bruce” really nice guy to deal with.

You will also need one of there solenoids for this set up to work.

Big thanks to Bill @badger5 for the heads up on this.

Slowly collecting parts ready for 3rd June. I’m also going to be re-designing my air filter and oil catch can set up. Something much easier to navigate around for the next stage of works. :)


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Lol so what was there improvement with the new design over the old one?

My wmi set up is using the cooling mist solenoid with devils own nozzle, even if you use the aem nozzle with its built in check valve it's still a good idea to use a solenoid.....Bruce is a very knowledgeable guy
 
ADs3 said:
Lol so what was there improvement with the new design over the old one?

My wmi set up is using the cooling mist solenoid with devils own nozzle, even if you use the aem nozzle with its built in check valve it's still a good idea to use a solenoid.....Bruce is a very knowledgeable guy
Click to expand...

Beats me mate, can’t see how it’s different. But easy enough to sort out. Just need to drill out a bigger hole halfway in and bobs your uncle.

You using devils own D01 nozzle for your secondary nozzle? I’ve got snow performance alternative. CoolingMist are the way to go for sure, there solenoid only draws 1.5 amps. Only way to do it with my AEM kit.


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I've seen allot of builds with them, some have tried to address the problem & most look a hack job, others I guess they just dont know the issue with them or just dont care.
Shouldn't be sold if it's not fit for the job.

I've just gone with a single nozzle set up atm, I'll wait till its mapped & see how it does on the day and if Ben has any thoughts on it. Other solenoid's can be used from what I read but you need to run them through a relay as they draw more.....I hate electrics & like to keep it as simple as possible
 
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ADs3 said:
I've seen allot of builds with them, some have tried to address the problem & most look a hack job, others I guess they just dont know the issue with them or just dont care.
Shouldn't be sold if it's not fit for the job.

I've just gone with a single nozzle set up atm, I'll wait till its mapped & see how it does on the day and if Ben has any thoughts on it. Other solenoid's can be used from what I read but you need to run them through a relay as they draw more.....I hate electrics & like to keep it as simple as possible
Click to expand...

I’m with you 100% it’s been documented that they don’t fit perfectly, yet they haven’t addressed the issue or at least not correctly. Can’t see any difference to the “New” one to the original. Unless they’ve palmed me off with an original or something. I’ll perhaps contact them to see what they say on that front.

Same again, I like to keep things as simple as possible. Life’s complicated as it is haha


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Update on the plates....

Just spoken the Creation Motorsport, very helpful. Basically the differences between the original and the “new” one is they added a small chamfer on the top and the thread goes all the way through. But it’s still up to the customer to modify it depending on the nozzle they use as they vary from make to make.


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Finally sorting out the mess in my engine bay, making it difficult for anyone to work on!

476bee22f776f91ad002105c31ced649.jpg
4ae6a7965bbe1079c150758e4813c8af.jpg


Go off to take it for a drive, make sure everything is ok, not rubbing, etc.

This happens..... blowing exhaust and I’m sat there thinking, ummmm why?!

1c0e3bdbf555e124728f3126e6751b8e.jpg


My EGT probe has blown out? What the deuce. Any ideas guys where it goes into the AET 380 hybrid? Just letting the car cool down now so I can screw it back in.


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Oh in other news.... got round to cleaning my N205 valve in the timing chain tensioner. Car seemed happier before my EGT sensor blew out. P0011 code hasn’t come back “yet”


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And I’m up and running again, amazing how long it takes for the engine to cool down enough not to get ******. I’ll check this again after a drive.... advice for anyone that needs to do this, use a small 17mm spanner.


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