Not another Nogaro!!!

Filling mounts with resin can make them quite 'stiff' I believe and overly so... you would have to ask people that have done it but I would personally use VT mounts...

Bill did have an R32 with a HPA kit fitted in many moons ago... that had the rather solid poly bush style mounts on it and the knock sensors were having a funny 5 minutes with them...

<tuffty/>
 
cheers tuffty Il stick with the vibra tronics expensive at around £500 but not wan to go through the hassle of resin and then have to change them anyway

Ian you can have your thread back now
 
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D216FA6E 4E73 4846 B420 3D65FE8A4840
Changing over the power steering pump required the pulley to be removed first before you’re able to get to the mounting bolts.

1720DDC8 9D6D 4114 A7C9 578910342424
With all the ancillaries bolted on it’s almost time to lay the loom back over

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The tightness of A/C pulley clearance once again

Went to tension up serpentine belt when ...
83FC16D1 00CD 4F08 B5ED 38349664B147
 
Gearbox side is the same I believe but engine side is different

<tuffty/>

This is correct. You need the mounts ON THE ENGINE from the vr6 (I’m using the 2.8 mounts).

* You can re use the s3 chassis to mount part (the one with the rubber) *

So I’ve filled both sides with resin and they’re stiff but I think I’m used to it now. People who’ve not been in my car before can tell but it’s all peachy for me. Ride quality isn’t bad at all.
 
Loom mostly plugged back in. Just have two plugs that physically can’t be plugged in unless the inlet manifold and intake pipe is installed.
6433B58D 6E2B 4118 AAEB 87998BCBF552
Had a bit of a battle with the clutch slave bleeder blowing off I so wasted a bit of time having to remove the starter then pushing it from behind to be able to re attach the bleeder properly.

Next - to go ahead and torque up all bolts that were removed.
 
Now that all the driveshaft, gearbox and mount bolts are torqued up it’s time for some smaller jobs

A7458E9A 5F23 4F04 B348 F24AFB7BFDC7 49B06417 3F16 42E5 8041 CA7B97B86772
Changed the plug for the oil pressure sensor with a cut and solder

550EC985 0F47 4DBC ADC8 D1734403A3C7
Put in some fresh gearbox oil because I had an incident aka forgot to drain it before removing the transfer case

... and in goes break in oil!
D5DEC6AD 617E 4F45 80D5 A52D0D081CA6
 
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Had to figure out a way to mount the aftermarket FPR.
3AA0D635 3EC0 417A AF14 EADD1BF67420

But ended up going with the option to use the in built FPR they use in the next model up. Pictured is the oem fuel filter where the mk5/tt8j fuel filter goes. It has
- fuel in
- fuel to rail
- 4.bar pressure regular to return line
Part # WK69/2 (4bar) or equivalent

All I had to do was make up a return hose with come quick connects - just used some bits from the wreckers.
FB6DF177 D8E4 4482 A508 B29FCDD0D5CD

89AAC550 BD38 479B BE3C C419A0ED2DA2
Cam cover wrinkle painted in black - much easier to care for!

Most of the car was back together so decided to upload 3.2 software and start up!! ... or not start up... car didn’t run :(


Slept on it and remembered that
I grounded one of the wires to a throttle body bolt = not connected to ground. Oops!

Once that was sorted I got the engine fired up! ... codes ensued!
AB58262A F9DE 48EF 802A 87DBA67EC958 E7D7AE98 F469 4466 894E EE84FA7E2E5C
These two were strange however.

8DB84A10 B606 4B25 9EFB 4BA391CD991D
This was strange - given its summer and
Was 30 degrees C that day!!! When starting up the car the measured value went further into negative until - - was displayed ... hmm.
So I looked toward wiring.
98209AB1 27E0 465F A194 44112691DBD4

Upon changing back to the mk4 MAF these issues disappeared. Lesson?

Don’t use a 3.6 MAF!

I thought I was ready to put it back together but after running till engine up to temp I got this
8EB06F89 3D14 4138 8D8F 3AF6CF2A911E

Then while finding the issue leaking hose I found injector #6 was leaking. So...
BEE7C72F D73F 49EC 890F 248535ADF663
Front off again to fix the issue. Getting to the rail =
- disconnect coilpack plugs
- remove packs
- remove all vacuum lines and intake piping
- removing mounting bolts
- Front down as in the pic
- then you can get to the manifold front bolts

Hassle!!!

But we got there
 
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Out and about
E25EF522 0A8D 462D 97B6 0E4EA65341D2

... but previous to this - radiator hose blew off! Hahaha

9354F1AD 7734 4C2E 9076 380DC64DFAFF
Lucky for Uber that was able to ferry us to a servo where they had coolant.

76km’s break-in done!
 
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Ian.... you never cease to amaze me! Good work, always a quick turn around with you.
 
Ian.... you never cease to amaze me! Good work, always a quick turn around with you.
That’s true he’s rebuilt his 3 times before I even started mine ha

This is correct. You need the mounts ON THE ENGINE from the vr6 (I’m using the 2.8 mounts).

* You can re use the s3 chassis to mount part (the one with the rubber) *

So I’ve filled both sides with resin and they’re stiff but I think I’m used to it now. People who’ve not been in my car before can tell but it’s all peachy for me. Ride quality isn’t bad at all.
so I’d I wouldn’t be able to use a vibratronics mount there then or would I need to mix a 1.8t and a v6 one ?
 
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Ian.... you never cease to amaze me! Good work, always a quick turn around with you.
Thanks Ash. Was trying to get it done before Friday to take on a b-day track day. Not sure if it’ll be broken in enough though :(

That’s true he’s rebuilt his 3 times before I even started mine ha

so I’d I wouldn’t be able to use a vibratronics mount there then or would I need to mix a 1.8t and a v6 one ?

Haha it helps now I know my way around the thing pretty well. Engine leveller on crane - key equipment!!!

Re: VT mounts - you will be able to use the gearbox side mounts, but you will need a VR6 specific ones for the engine side.

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Snuck this one on before work. Was considering driving it to work and back but too much idling traffic made me choose otherwise.

Oil and filter change tonight for 2nd lot of running in.
 
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@<tuffty/> wow those mounts are expensive! (but probably well worth it)

This is the first oil change on the engine - it feels nice and strong both acceleration and when coasting and letting the engine do the braking


Rounded
The state of the oil drain plug! hahaha oops

Lucky I was able to just take the cap from the dead 3.6 and pop it on. 300km's on this 2nd oil change and the next draining of oil shouldn't be as messy as this one!
 
Thanks Ash. Was trying to get it done before Friday to take on a b-day track day. Not sure if it’ll be broken in enough though :(

Fingers crossed you get it broken in, in time dude! Mines going in for its work with Bill two weeks before my birthday. That’s my birthday treat to myself, finally getting it done and on the road :D




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Fingers crossed you get it broken in, in time dude! Mines going in for its work with Bill two weeks before my birthday. That’s my birthday treat to myself, finally getting it done and on the road :D

Yeah that was the plan but it’s deifnitley an impossible task. Will go go karting or something instead haha

The intake bodge - which goes from the 2.8MAF that is taped onto the intake pipe that has an unused breather port near the TB
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Found the proper sized MAF (from a mk5) which luckily came with the
Intake pipe that eliminates the unused breather/sensor.

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I did try to fit this heatshield for using the pod but clearly it didn’t fit. Got to think of a way to make that work...

1C1E32EA 28E6 4F43 8EC8 5D3964D15F8B
So this was one of the last three codes to get rid of. Both rear o2’s not working so well so I set out to find a definition for the me7.1.1.

Couldn’t find one but I did find an excel file giving the addresses. Found all the ones
related to deleting the above error, plugged the addresses into a modified definition from the 7.5 and, checksummed and tried out the flash ... next thing you know

2A308B41 3652 4F62 8571 4769D8A8C276
Down to the final error to sort!!!
 
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19475 - Valve for Exhaust Flap 1 (N321): Open Circuit


IS GONE!!!

*happy dance*
 
Winner... finally got your s3 up to 250bhp..

:D
 
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Well I’ll put the stage 1 tune on there and see how that goes too.

Have found a wheel bearing needs replacing
 
and have just gassed up my a/c - the compressor that i got with the VR6 seems a tad tired. I never charged it up before thinking that the 2.8 was only going to be temporarily on.

Only blowing cold for 5-10 mins then it doesn't work anymore....

Should've switched it out for the S3 one while doing the swap... hopefully my mech. won't charge the full amount next regas... *fingers crossed*
 
Can anyone more “in the know” suggest how I could make the VR6 sound more wookie-ish?

Currently the setup is 3” cat back, centre resonator and straight muffler ...

2F820D73 A2D2 4B8D BA46 E72855324E35 A920A158 DE39 4AD9 A95D 77CD0D545B21 C9C45D8E 40F8 45A4 8C3E 515A00657701

The car sounds great when revving on idle but when there’s load it’s quite muted and doesn’t really give that distinct VR6 Wookiee sound.
 
Do you have cats?


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Oem cats still there

It goes
- mildly ported headers > stock downpipes > cats > 3” cat back (as in pics) > mid resonator > muffler > twin outlet
 
Oem cats still there

It goes
- mildly ported headers > stock downpipes > cats > 3” cat back (as in pics) > mid resonator > muffler > twin outlet

That must be the issue.
As that would be a very high flow and audible cat-back system in any car

Maybe Sandip will chime in, his had that classic ‘chewie’ sound you’re after


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That must be the issue.
As that would be a very high flow and audible cat-back system in any car

Maybe Sandip will chime in, his had that classic ‘chewie’ sound you’re after


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ahhh !!!! thanks for the refer ;)
 
128F1652 F3D0 4B0D 8579 F01FB84DB753


Slowly sorting out the coil pack conduit - blue’d the plug covers
 
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Finally!!!

Ordered a hub pulled kit tool with the almost correct hub adaptor on it. Had to elongate it a holes a little. Then out came the hub with the inner race attached.
Pulled out the rear of the broken bearing...
2BDC3E04 F31B 4E38 8873 2B40B02F3F29

And in goes the
29809336 B9A8 4A6D 8200 333B5F5A47E1
 
Tweaking the file to remove the Exhaust Flapper N321 error

Screen Shot 2019 03 07 at 65521 pm

At address: 10A48
You find: BC

Screen Shot 2019 03 07 at 65530 pm

We change to: BF

Commit the change, checksum > upload
 
The ecu is from a 4mo bora. 24v

Software I’m using is 022906032CN
 
Last edited:
Bills latest acquisition ;)


<tuffty/>


<insert evil laugh>

I have been using an excel file that outlines all the addresses and have been using it to make the definition. If that’s be of use to you let me know.
 
ah ok.
I've *maybe* (lol) bought myself a TT3.2 for the noise... and possible further mods down the line

hahaha i like the "...and possible further mods down the line" part!

Nothing like that sound!!! Keen to hear your exhaust when it's on load ;)
 

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