Android RNS-E

TheTomCutler said:
That's a new one for me I'm afraid, can you isolate the issue? You could go through some basic fault finding if you have time - Does it happen only on dipped beam, does it do it when all lights off and you flash main beam, with/without side lights, DRL etc, try all the combos. If it's only only one type of light can you remove one of the bulbs to see if it's a particular fitting? Might help narrow it down ...


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It happens with the side lights on, then gets louder with the main headlights. Not checked with all lights off then flashing full beam on yet but I can test that tomorrow. If I disconnect the rear speakers directly front the head unit the noise is quieter, but its still there. I'll certainly try what you suggested thank you.
 
@YorkieTom, do you have a rear view camera? Mine (connected wireless) can cause alternator noise when it's hot outside and/or after 20 minutes after the engine start. It disappears when I disconnect the camera. It bothers me sometimes but happily it happens rarely.
 
dp_motley said:
@YorkieTom, do you have a rear view camera? Mine (connected wireless) can cause alternator noise when it's hot outside and/or after 20 minutes after the engine start. It disappears when I disconnect the camera. It bothers me sometimes but happily it happens rarely.
Click to expand...

Hi mate nope no rear view camera thanks for that though.

Tested today and the buzz happens with lights off but flashing full beams makes the noise briefly while the lights are on. Also makes a tiny noise every time indicator blinks which I never noticed before. Any ideas haha?
 
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YorkieTom said:
Hi mate nope no rear view camera thanks for that though.

Tested today and the buzz happens with lights off but flashing full beams makes the noise briefly while the lights are on. Also makes a tiny noise every time indicator blinks which I never noticed before. Any ideas haha?
Click to expand...

Does seem to be some funny business here, it must be some kind of grounding issue since it's all the lights making it happen. Strange though as you've put an audio filter in... Which one did you go for if you don't mind my asking?
 
Got mine connected up and working without any issues.

Has anyone worked out how to get Android auto to work correctly?
228699700e6fe94d32872553cf6960ab.jpg
 
audi upgrades
Simply D said:
any buzzing or oddities??

whats Android auto?
Click to expand...
There's a very slight buzz when nothing is playing, will look into it at some point, I saw something about some extra connectors sorting it out.

Android auto is the Android version of apple car play, basically to control your phone from the headunit.
 
samisnake said:
dunno what the previous units were like, but the current xtrons unit they sell is literally plug and play with a non-bose, rear speakers and factory sub system.
Click to expand...

Hi, I just bought a XTron (model PB78AA3RP) for my 2010 A3 (without the Bose system) to replace an off brand Windows CE unit that the previous owner had installed and I can't get the rear speakers to work (they weren't working with the previous unit either).

The unit came with all the necessary hardware for the connection: wiring harness with the quad connector and CanBus adapter. The installation was pretty painless if it wasn't for this vexing rear speaker problem!

If I understand the problem correctly the stock wiring loom has 5 wires going from the quad connector to the rear amplifier: 2 for each left / right channel and a "on/off" signal that turns the rear amplifier on or off (please correct me if this assumption is wrong).

If my assumption above is correct, then what I don't know is:
  • Whether the XTron wiring harness provides the rear left / right speaker signal to the car wiring loom
  • Whether the XTron wiring harness provide the amplifier on/off signal to the car wiring loom
I've searched this (and other) forum for solutions but I wasn't able to find any that really make any sense (most of what I have found recommend to just pull new wires from the head unit to the rear amplifier...).

So any help would be greatly welcome. Thanks in advance.

Here are a couple of possibly useful photos:

Quad Connector (car wiring loom):

2018 07 07 Quad connector 01


XTron wiring diagram:

2018 07 07 XTron wiring diagram 02
 

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You should have a harness with a brunch of rca connectors on it and plug other end which plugs into the stereo then connect up the rcas to the ones on back of quad lock including the amp power wire. That's what I done and worked.
 
robbie_c said:
You should have a harness with a brunch of rca connectors on it and plug other end which plugs into the stereo then connect up the rcas to the ones on back of quad lock including the amp power wire. That's what I done and worked.
Click to expand...

The unit did come with a bunch of different harnesses including the one with the RCA connectors. But... on the car wiring loom side, there isn't any RCA connectors, only the Quad connector and the FM antenna connector. Xtron directions (which are rather confusing) say that I need to buy a "special" wire harness but they can't tell me what and where!
 
Here is a very simple idea probably costly but your paying for the expertise off the people depending where you stay you might want to PM @NHN or @Ash187 as these are the guys who could help u out off a lot off pain
 
audi upgrades
DC-A3-8P said:
The unit did come with a bunch of different harnesses including the one with the RCA connectors. But... on the car wiring loom side, there isn't any RCA connectors, only the Quad connector and the FM antenna connector. Xtron directions (which are rather confusing) say that I need to buy a "special" wire harness but they can't tell me what and where!
Click to expand...

Mine didn't have rcas on the car side either. I plugged the harness with the rcas into back of stereo then connected up with the other rcas that are off the other harness along with the amp wire.
 
robbie_c said:
Mine didn't have rcas on the car side either. I plugged the harness with the rcas into back of stereo then connected up with the other rcas that are off the other harness along with the amp wire.
Click to expand...
I'll try to help as I've got the same car and HU.
- There are two harnesses with a quadlock looking connector in the xtrons package. Choose one that fits your quadlock on the car side.
- Connect the other side of this xtrons quadlock connector (the 2-row 20-pin black connector) to the lower left slot of the HU (first arrow on the left on your picture)
- Take a harness with a rubber s**t on it. It has 2 red and two white RCA connectors. Connect those red and white RCA connectors to the red and white RCA connectors of the loom you chose previously. They are marked so you won't make mistake. Also, connect ACC wire (blue) to the ACC wire on the same "large" loom. Connect another end of this loom to the slot on the right hand side of the HU where there are many slots for cables. The one you need is the lower left one. The arrow #2 on your image points to the slot you want.
- Connect the CAN BUS module (the red box) to the same large loom. There is one connector that fits the canbus only, so you wont fail here.

That's all. The sound should work now.

Hope it helps.
 
DC-A3-8P said:
The unit did come with a bunch of different harnesses including the one with the RCA connectors. But... on the car wiring loom side, there isn't any RCA connectors, only the Quad connector and the FM antenna connector. Xtron directions (which are rather confusing) say that I need to buy a "special" wire harness but they can't tell me what and where!
Click to expand...

Like I said on another thread and like what has been said above you just need to connect the red and white rca connectors together and then connect the 2 blue amp wires together and it will all work.
The red and white connectors will be labelled f/r(front right), r/r(rear right), f/l(front left) and r/l(rear left). There will be 2 sets of these, one set will be connected to the quadlock connector which you should have plugged into the cars quadlock connector and the other set just plug into the back of the headunit. You just simply plug the red and white connectors together and then connect those two blue amp cables together that I previously pointed out.
You don’t need to buy anything extra despite what xtrons say, everything you need will have come in the box with it providing that you bought it brand new.
 
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Now please please tell us after all the advice the sound out off this type off HU is awesome and beats the Rns-e after all the problems you have had .:thumbs up::thumbs up:
 
Yeh it is a really good Hu . I have had only one weird issue which hasn't happened again.

Was stuck in traffic and every time I put the clutch in the volume went up and kept doing so :wtf: never done it again since though.
 
I'm thinking of taking the plunge for one of these units..... I think I know what I want.. latest Android 8.0 version to replace the concert head unit.
Just one question though... what is the sound quality like... my car is bose so I'm kinda thinking the bose amp will take care of the sound quality... I've never bought a cheap Chinese stereo before
 
Just read the whole thread, but couldn't find anything about parking sensors.
Do the front and back park sensors (sound) work the same with an xtrons HU ?
 
SpySeiko said:
Just read the whole thread, but couldn't find anything about parking sensors.
Do the front and back park sensors (sound) work the same with an xtrons HU ?
Click to expand...

Works on my B7 A4, xtrons HU and Bose system


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Hi,

I've just fitted a Dynavin N7-TT to my TTS, and it's similar to these Android units so was hoping for some help.

I've connected the four RCAs, and I've connected the quadlock, but it appears the TT quadlock from the car only has the blue and green pin connectors, no yellow one. I've connected the car quad with the Dynavin quad.

I'm left with a cable labelled "Amp Turn" which I assume it to turn on the Bose amp, but I have nothing to connect it to in the car. If I use the RCAs, do I need this connector? The kit came with two types of connection/lock; ISO and Quad, if I use the quad do I not need to power the Bose from this cable?

29553573647_de6fcca82d.jpg
 
Thread bump.

Today my RNS-E nav unit screen got damaged transporting my daughters gymnastics beam (don't ask). So I am in the hunt for a worthy replacement and seems for the money the xtrons HU is the way to go. However, reading on this site - https://www.androidice.co.uk/index....car-stereo-custom-fit-for-audi-a3-s3-rs3.html about them, it says this - "Please check to see whether there is RNS-D (Radio Navigation System) or BNS 5.x (Basic Navigation System), if there is, this unit is NOT compatible with your car." Now am I correct in thinking this Xtron HU will work in my A3 s-line quattro, or will it not? From what I can gather the RNS-E hu isn't the same as the above mentioned?

Also form what I can gather, the xtron hu's are pretty much a plug and play - is that correct?
 
The Xtrons HU is plug and play. It doesn't have anything in common with the RNS-E/D. It has two different harnesses to choose from depending on your car's original setup.
 
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My Dynavin unit is now fitted, and I have the same quiet whine others have spoken about.

You can only hear it when it's quiet or between tracks, but personally I can't live with it, I find it too annoying. I've tried ground loop isolators and ferrite beads and neither made any difference; it's like the problem originates with the unit itself, like because they're cheaply made the internals aren't grounded well?

Is this just a symptom of these Chinese units; if I bought a Pioneer or Alpine would these problems go away?

The Dynavin unit was £550, and frankly for that money I'd want it to be perfect, and it isn't.
 
How to wipe out all personal data, passwords, etc. off the Android HU if you sell your car?
 
factory reset m8 in the settings. just like an android phone.

mick
 
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I must have been missing all the updates on this, sorry. I will be upgrading to a 8 core version soon so will update with that plus if you connect a SSD drive (I have a 250gb) they will read them if people are running out of space and the new ones will allow you to merge it to the system storage so it becomes one with the system.
 
Right, I'm aware that this thread is 20 pages / now 789 posts long and it's possible that the answers are here, but it's not clear.

Does anyone have a definitive list of our various cars / audio combinations versus the various Android HU listed along the way. Then detailing whether they work OOTB, or need some mods?

I have a 2009 FL S3 without BOSE, and have had enough of the RNS-E despite it 'working' just fine. I'm tempted to buy an XTRONS Android 8.1 unit plus a DAB aerial, but I really cannot be rummaging around in the wiring to get it working. I went through that with my Lotus Evora, which had an OEM head unit that made the RNS-E look positively like witchcraft. I then resorted to an auto-electrician to get it wired up. I'd like PNP if I'm honest.

Any thoughts?
 
Similar to the post by @Dr_Rick, this thread is quite long and also spans 4 years in which time some HU recommendations and issues will have been superseded and resolved.

It really would be great to know which is the latest HU that works for specific models. Maybe narrow down the recommendations to UK based suppliers if it makes it easier.

For me, I am looking to move from the standard Audi radio unit that came with my Audi A3 Mk2 8P FL Cabriolet which also has the following:
- Bose Sound system
- Audi Bluetooth
- Audi iPod connector in the glovebox

Looking at the X-Tron site, they have 3 HUs listed: http://xtrons.co.uk/audi/audi-a3-s3-rs3-android-car-stereo.html

I am not sure if there is any technical difference between them other than the front fascia. Any advice or pointers would be welcome.

Also, I understand that for those of us with Bose systems, we will need additional RCA Suppressors to eliminate any hum/noise ?

Is there any other component needed other than the HU unit and RCA suppressors, for example dash surround etc ?

Thanks in advance for any help
 
Dr_Rick said:
Right, I'm aware that this thread is 20 pages / now 789 posts long and it's possible that the answers are here, but it's not clear.

Does anyone have a definitive list of our various cars / audio combinations versus the various Android HU listed along the way. Then detailing whether they work OOTB, or need some mods?

I have a 2009 FL S3 without BOSE, and have had enough of the RNS-E despite it 'working' just fine. I'm tempted to buy an XTRONS Android 8.1 unit plus a DAB aerial, but I really cannot be rummaging around in the wiring to get it working. I went through that with my Lotus Evora, which had an OEM head unit that made the RNS-E look positively like witchcraft. I then resorted to an auto-electrician to get it wired up. I'd like PNP if I'm honest.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I have a 2010 A3 Sportsback wihtout the Bose system. I bought and installed the XTRON 7" Android 8.0 (Amazon product) and got it to work. It was a little bit of a hassle to get the rear speakers to work, but if you search this thread with my ID you should get the lowdown on how to get it to work (which in the end was pretty simple!).

This is in a car I use only very rarely (long story), so I don't have extensive feedback on that particular unit. Works reasonably well for what I do with it tho.
 
So I’ve skimmed through this entire thread. I’m pretty sure no one has asked this question. I have a 2009 Audi R8 with the B&O system and RNSE. Obviously, the factory system is terrible. What I’m wanting to do is take one of these Android stereos and modify it to work in the R8 since it’s basically the only decent aftermarket system to look somewhat factory.
Here’s my questions:

1: How is the screen connected to the stereo? Is it possible to upgrade the screen as I’m wanting to have a larger screen size and change if the dimensions to more of a square aspect screen. (Same size on all 4 sides) is there a setting in the system somewhere about adjusting the ratio or anything similar?

2: ideally I’d like the stereo that looks like the factory RNSE. BUT I want to relocate the buttons on the side to the console. Does anyone know how these are connected? Is it by cord to the unit or is it circuit board?

3: lastly, with me having the B&O system, does anyone think I’ll have any issues trying to get the system to work?

my goal is to fill the entire space in the bezel like the 2013 ETron concept pictured below.
I know this will be some work and I’m willing to do the work if I can get a close to factory appearance in the end.

thanks for any and all help!
 

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Let me see if I can help here.


Personally I would lose the idea of a RNS-E look a d go for a clean touch screen like this unit
#Aliexpress ￡186.92 15%OFF | 9" PX6 4G+64G Android 9.0 Car Multimedia Player For AUDI A4 S4 RS4 8E 8F B9 B7 RNS-E SEAT Exeo 5*USB TDA7850 GPS Navi Radio HDMI https://a.aliexpress.com/_etWzYj
IMG 20200106 WA0001

I think this would look so much better and will be the way I go next.

If you do go RNS-E then yes the front panel is ribbon connected to the board.

For the Bose you will need to run from the headunit speaker out leads and run a pair of these which will allow you to control the volume output to the Bose system or it wont work plus your get a load of noise from the car.

20151125 195017
 
docurley said:
Let me see if I can help here.


Personally I would lose the idea of a RNS-E look a d go for a clean touch screen like this unit
#Aliexpress ￡186.92 15%OFF | 9" PX6 4G+64G Android 9.0 Car Multimedia Player For AUDI A4 S4 RS4 8E 8F B9 B7 RNS-E SEAT Exeo 5*USB TDA7850 GPS Navi Radio HDMI https://a.aliexpress.com/_etWzYj
View attachment 203767
I think this would look so much better and will be the way I go next.

If you do go RNS-E then yes the front panel is ribbon connected to the board.

For the Bose you will need to run from the headunit speaker out leads and run a pair of these which will allow you to control the volume output to the Bose system or it wont work plus your get a load of noise from the car.

View attachment 203768
Click to expand...
See my thing is I’m really wanting to keep a physical volume knob and a few buttons. I hate the idea of having to look over at the screen while driving to see where the volume buttons are.

that’s why I was hoping I could just re-route the buttons from the android unit to the console area. I was hoping they were connected via a wired plug or something so I would be able to move it from the stereo area to the console. Hope that makes sense..
 
Trevor09R8 said:
See my thing is I’m really wanting to keep a physical volume knob and a few buttons. I hate the idea of having to look over at the screen while driving to see where the volume buttons are.

that’s why I was hoping I could just re-route the buttons from the android unit to the console area. I was hoping they were connected via a wired plug or something so I would be able to move it from the stereo area to the console. Hope that makes sense..
Click to expand...
Make sense, do you not have a steering wheel with those controls on it as they will still work with these units and with the option to custom program buttons or if not think about upgrading the steering wheel if not, I'm sure that would be easier some how and be a cleaner look.
 
tony mc said:
hi all, i have a little to add, to this thread about full bose set ups,

i have this unit and full bose set up in the car, i had dreadful alternator whine and a major buzzing noise when the head lights were on, so, after seeking lots of advice on here and other places, i found out i needed ground loop isolators instead of hi lo converters. wired in the same way from the head units speaker outs to the bose signal wires in the car.

now then, this stopped 90% off the interference, but the buzz was still there from the headlights, so i put my hand in my pocket again and bought one of these little fella's.....

i wired some rca plugs to the cars speaker signal to amp wires and put the blue wire to the white amp wire on the audi loom and it all works spot on, no alternator whine and buzz from the headlights,

thought i share as i found there wasnt a lot of info for people with full bose.

cheers.
Click to expand...


Hey, I see this link posted everywhere but it is no longer available on the site. Can anyone link a similar adaptor or picture so I know what I'm looking for at least? Everyone says it works, I've tried very hard to find what adapter this is.

My issue is awful engine whine and hum on a full BOSE system, Audi A3 2009 Double-Din Concert. I have tried ground loop isolates, ferrite cores and power noise filters.

My aftermarket headunit isn't using any RCA cables, in fact it just connects directly to the factory quadlock, no harness required as it's purpose built. However it does have an alternative method of connecting via RCA cables I could try, but would require another adaptor. That's why I have purchased this https://audiotechdirect.com/direct-fit-audi-bose-rca-adaptor-for-audi-es-dj-series-units/

I'm hoping I can hook it up to the factory harness, plug it straight into the back of the head unit and wire up any additional connections it may not have (doesn't look like it handles steering wheel controls etc, and is missing some pins)

I've scouted the web and all the forums I can. I think the general consensus is that two hi/lo converters are needed for full BOSE. My problem is I don't have RCA cables to work with, due to it connecting to my headunit directly via the quadlock.

This is the back of my headunit and all the cables / connections it comes with. Currently I'm not using any of the three harnesses pictures below (to A, to B, to 19 if needed) as I'm just plugging the factory quad-lock straight to 19.

ES5147A-E19-Wiring-Diagram.jpg
 
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When I sis my head unit it was a pumkin it just plug and play. But the reverse camera had interference so I put a resistor inbetween the power. Now we used to get alternator interference years ago and would use suppressor. Theres loads of vids on YouTube about your issues check them out might help

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