Cannot rotate engine, hard lock / clunk at 80% rotation on crank.

[Stuart B]

Well Bill might decide not to have me, it's great to be in demand...


I need to try and get to level 40 Pokemon Go before then

 

[Tj 0785]

Well Bill might decide not to have me, it's great to be in demand...


I need to try and get to level 40 Pokemon Go before then

Was working in Manchester central today and was a crowd of 200-300 people all adults right up to oap age I asked one what was going on and amazingly there were all playing Pokemon go. seriously I don’t get what the deal is with this game

 

[Stuart B]

It's exercise buddy, I started playing it before released on 'play' in June 2016 and have walked about 4000 km playing it (not bad with a smashed up leg as I can't run or walk more than about 2.5 mph). But they added 'friendship' XP recently which means instead of having to walk 5km and catch 100 Pokemon for 10000 xp everyday, you can just add your code to an anonymous site and people send you gifts every day. As an example I got 220,000 XP today just opening gifts.

They also linked to Google fit recently, so you don't even need to play the game to progress as it eats battery.


This game at its peak earned £1m a day via inapp purchases. Amazing job if you can get it. It's had a brilliant use of in game currency, stardust, xp and game evolution.

When it 1st came out people used GPS fly to essentially go to different zones, also robots to play but niantic found all those watermarks in the data and deleted their accounts.

I don't really play games but I have played this.

 

[badger5]

at least the fueling is there to match your boost now.
ignition adv and CF hopefully in check also.

 

[Stuart B]

baby steps

I think I worked out why I was having that issue with the boost cut a week or so ago, I assume the overboost protection time is in seconds so essentially when I first plugged in the N75 and had the 30% WGDC limit I also put LDRXN pretty low and reckon that was picked up by the ECU and triggered this (but no error in VCDS) the 10 seconds is probably about the time before it started working again.

this is where it occurred in the log file.

 

[Stuart B]

I am not sure what CF actually stands for, but I assume it is the timing pull. I think I am still running the stock timing. I dont know if you remember but I was having lots of issues when I first got this car with timing and knock intervention with only a couple of small changes and large figures in the individual cylinder ****** log entries.

This is the same section of the log, showing the cylinder ******, overall timing advance and knock voltages.

yeah timing section is totally stock currently.

This is an example log from middle of last year when any minor change was made to the timing.

But as I did say even though I broke this car with the 5mm allen bit, but I was getting the dipstick pushed up (I think this was a mixture of general wear and tear but also an exhaust valve stem seal was not on the collar)

 

[badger5]

your existing timign pull looks great, almost nothing.. cyl4 usually the first to start to pull, as its the hottest cylinder (coolant flow direction)

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks Bill, hopefully that's encouraging for the potential.

 

[ADs3]

Haven't logged in for a while..........looks like you've got it up & runnning Stuart well done just a bit of fine tuning

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks, so was getting an overboost issue whilst fettling on - where it triggers the "soft limp" by dropping boost for 10 seconds. rather than just zeroing the table and letting this go wild. I wound down the WGDC limit Bill kindly pointed me to - down a bit to 25% and changed some of the other tables recommended on s4wiki to increase the load for torque, decrease the torque for load and change the charge profile in the PID? and for the moment put in a flat low(ish) max charge pressure from 3000 to 6000. I am pretty happy with the results for the moment, dont get me wrong this is not suddenly 3 million BHP but my desired values are now more than the actual rather than trying to catch up. the car did not go into overboost in the 2 or 3 runs I have done today (this feels like cheating as I had V-Power in and it was 1 degree centigrade outside so cheating a bit) this is the first red-line I have dared - but the MAF g/s didn't change from 5400 - 6800 as that is the limit set from the WGDC cycle.

I will start to look at the charge profile PID to try and stop my dependency on the 25% limit (safety-net ??) by creating a variable table around this so I can start to raise a bit.

 

[badger5]

timings becoming unhappy now... back that off a smidge if I were you

 

[JohnM100]

I sold my 8L over 5 years ago so don’t often dip in to this section any more, but Stuart I have to say great work and dedication - I read the whole thread of your journey in 2 sittings. Well done!

John.

 

[Stuart B]

timings becoming unhappy now... back that off a smidge if I were you

Thanks Bill, it is a bit weird, I am unsure why this is apart from I have taken it to the red line, the previous log was only to 5500rpm?
I have reduced the max WGDC to 25% instead of 30% as i found that occasional 'soft limp' and slightly adjusted the KFMIRL + 5% in midrange / KFMIOP to mirror each other, but i also ran a tool to try and correct the fkvvs table for fuel trims. I will revert some of these, as there are too many changes at once for me to know what's bad

I will go back to the previous map but reduce the DC to 25% to ensure it stays closer to the desired as the 25% in this setup is about 2100mbar but 30% was 2450mbar overshooting the desired too often.

so many numbers... that is all I see in my sleep now.

 

[Stuart B]

I sold my 8L over 5 years ago so don’t often dip in to this section any more, but Stuart I have to say great work and dedication - I read the whole thread of your journey in 2 sittings. Well done!

John.

Thanks, it has been an exciting journey. I must think about hoovering the house soon.... at least the dogs still get fed and walked

 

[Stuart B]

so this was a short run this morning with the load backed off slightly and max wastegate duty cycle at 27% - it looks clean regarding timing but I still need to sort the basic map as I occasionally get an overboost soft limp... if I use 50% pedal in 5th/6th for a short period only, it cuts the boost for 10 seconds, so I am going to "go dark" for a few days and study the Boost PID. The thing I hate about it (based on the little bit I have learnt over the last couple of days), is for "street tuning" you essentially need to update the map, red line the car, update the map, red line the car .. repeat * 10 and firstly I wont update the map in the middle of the street in-case of an issue so need to drive home and secondly I dont like red-lining the car and it can do it - which it couldn't before.

I think part of my overboost issue is not during the revs increasing but when I back off / change gear if you look at the second image there is an example of the boost staying high according to the MAP Sensor and MAF - for at least a second with virtually no gas and just coasting / engine breaking? I will look at some old "pre hybrid logs" to compare the behaviour?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Do you not have a spare ECU you can clone?... keep that with you with a get you home map on it in case you brick the ECU?

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Well I do, but on the s3 I could only get to the ecu with the wipers off, I will see what's on it later on. I did want to evaluate the multi map tools with the bench flashing rig to see what's what.

This is a steep learning curve tuffty, I do enjoy reading the s4wiki and should probably think about adding the extra xdf parameters which are not in my one.

I ran two maps today with pid changes to see what table z values are reached in various conditions eg lowering the WGDC to below the max parameter Bill helped me with, so I can see in the logs the various affects. There's this voice in the back of my head saying 'Don't do it' but this urge from inside saying 'Go for it' i feel like I'm treating my own car like a borrowed company car in the 90s.

Last night a dreamt of discussing an inlet valve breaking, and the thing that woke me up was i wasn't sure if i should re-use the same head gasket or not. .. lols

 

[<tuffty/>]

Me7 tuning can be a pretty steep learning curve and s4wiki helps but can be a little over whelming..

It's been a while since I have done anything with Me7 personally and would take me more effort than I care for to get back into it...

Software itself is clunky (ols at least... Tuner Pro makes things a little easier) and the documentation difficult to follow...

I am glad I no longer have to worry about it with Ignitron (there is still a learning curve of course) but the approach I normally take is to focus on one bit at a time and not make too many changes at once especially when road logging

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Yeah, at my level - the difficulty is to visualise the map as a whole, even putting the complex linked table calculations aside, it's knowing which one of the 3 or 4 results is the minimum and therefore used by the ECU.
I have FF'd one of the ambient ratio maps to try and determine whether that is interfering, as ambient is 990 in the logs today instead on 1005

And there's a lot of guess work (at my knowledge level of course) to know whether some form of intervention has been triggered as there's no audit trail, well the logs - but that doesn't include an exact decison / path.

I can see why people put big differences between the continuous knock load and normal load to help know its happening (even though the TT QS BFV. actually increases the load during a knock event I suppose to counter the ******?)

I expect Bill just does all of this with his eyes closed. He probably knows what the map will look like when he listens to the car pulling up outside his shop

Maybe after Brexit we will only get 95 octane fuel so all this will be in vain.

 

[badger5]

you had to mentioned Brexit...……. arghhhhh

 

[Stuart B]

you had to mentioned Brexit...……. arghhhhh

#Triggered

And Tuffty has a melt down when someone mentions fitting a DVSPLTR

 

[<tuffty/>]

And Tuffty has a melt down when someone mentions fitting a DVSPLTR

Bannable offence....

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Something is surely wrong with a sensor here, I haven't made any changes significant enough for this. LAMFA = 4 on overrun / coasting / rolling on!!!

The injectors I have are not fake - the car was not struggling or misfiring. I will check the wiring but I only drove to the chemist then a 10 second blast for a log.

I have rolled back to a previous map. but never seen anything like this. (I assume 4 is the o2 sensor limit - I cant believe an engine could run like)

Same log file accelerating (with a 20% Max WGDC)

Just on the brink of pulling the trigger on an exhaust pipe too.

 

[<tuffty/>]

You do realise that the injectors turn off on over run don't you so shows as fully lean to a gauge or log

<tuffty/>

 

[Rainbird]

Unless you've got dem sik flames bruv, of course.

 

[Stuart B]

Ha ha yeah, I rolled back my fuel trims to before fkkvs_fixer tool (which i ran for 30 minutes at varied speed), it was weird - if the desired was 1.0468 the actual raised to 4 then dropped back down to desired when back on the power.

If the rising AFR is actually good and stock fkkvs is protective then I will put back those calculated values, as in the year of owning this tt and using me7logger i have never seen this behaviour before.
The only other change I made on the map for this morning's run was to switch back on overboost protection (soft limp) could that really be it?

 

[Stuart B]

Has anyone tested any proram by ramair filters?
I'm thinking of giving an 80mm version a try out.

https://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/pr...-cone-air-filter-automotive/proram-universal/

 

[badger5]

Ha ha yeah, I rolled back my fuel trims to before fkkvs_fixer tool (which i ran for 30 minutes at varied speed), it was weird - if the desired was 1.0468 the actual raised to 4 then dropped back down to desired when back on the power.

If the rising AFR is actually good and stock fkkvs is protective then I will put back those calculated values, as in the year of owning this tt and using me7logger i have never seen this behaviour before.
The only other change I made on the map for this morning's run was to switch back on overboost protection (soft limp) could that really be it?

fkkvs is nothing to do with protection but to do with trimming injector performance, linearity (or not etc)

 

[badger5]

Has anyone tested any proram by ramair filters?
I'm thinking of giving an 80mm version a try out.

https://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/pr...-cone-air-filter-automotive/proram-universal/

personally not a fan of foam filters based on the ones I see come thru the workshop with plenty of gritty dust MAF side of them.. combined with the inevitable oil breather oil mist makes for a good cutting/lapping compound!
popular cos cheap .

 

[Stuart B]

Is this PRORAM filter also foam? I know the usual ramair filters are foam, this states it's 'synthetic nanofiber' <- whatever that is? Edit: looking closer I bet it is foam just contained in a wire mesh.

These filters are made using a high quality, high flow, synthetic nanofiber filtration media which is pleated to maximise surface area and in turn increase air flow

It actually looks quite small but worth doing a like for like comparison with the S2000 fabric filter before getting the tried and tested JR/Jetex

Regarding the fkkvs fuel trims adjustment I have looked at some older logs and can see this AFR '4' readings for a desired 1.0468 occasionally too, if it's normal behaviour when coasting as tuffty pointed out I'm not going to worry.

 

[badger5]

Is this PRORAM filter also foam? I know the usual ramair filters are foam, this states it's 'synthetic nanofiber' <- whatever that is? Edit: looking closer I bet it is foam just contained in a wire mesh.



It actually looks quite small but worth doing a like for like comparison with the S2000 fabric filter before getting the tried and tested JR/Jetex

View attachment 174872


Regarding the fkkvs fuel trims adjustment I have looked at some older logs and can see this AFR '4' readings for a desired 1.0468 occasionally too, if it's normal behaviour when coasting as tuffty pointed out I'm not going to worry.

coasting is injectors off.. so no lambda control (4), until 1700rpm again when they will turn back on. thats normal.

no idea re this filter I'm afraid
coated open pore filters work to catch fine dust particles by their coating. the different manufacturers choose their own approach to the coatings, some runny/oil, some proper sticky goopy stuff.. Dry filters will relay on pore size to catch the actual dust. From the cheap foam filters widely sold, they flow well (where they dont just collapse inward if no internal frame present, seen that too on the dyno) but they flow well and if dry because pore size is larger.. and the dirt/dust will over time migrate through into the intake,turbo, valves etc etc... coated thin oil type filters, where excessive oil is applied is also bad for the maf's as that oil will be drawn out and across the maf sensor, damaging or killing it. K&N seemed to be one of the heaviest oiled filters I've seen.

you can of course over think all of this.. but you vote with your wallet more often than your brain (like the rest of us). you pays ya money you takes ya choice.

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks for the info Bill.

I will see what it is like, it'll be an interesting experiment whilst I am getting consistent readings in logs - projects huh

 

[Stuart B]

Well it's not sponge like foam, is like a mesh of stiff fibres contained in a wire mesh. It looks smaller than the s2000 filter though but I'll give it a go. Using the current map as I logged a run yesterday.

 

[Rainbird]

Wouldn't worry too much about comparing to the S2000 filter personally - With the open end and what looks to be deep, tight pleats (snarf...) you've probably got a higher surface area there anyway.

 

[<tuffty/>]

S2000 doesn't flow as well as most people think... internally all the ones I have seen have a rather flow restrictive hole punched 'mesh' so even though externally there is a decent amount of surface area its still strained (think colander) through this punch metal jobber so not as free flowing as it looks

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

yeah the inside of an s2000 filter is 60% metal

I should turn that into a party gif.

Tiny winy

 

[Stuart B]

Once in a lifetime opportunity (until my next car)
I am running up the miles on the TT and want to know
1. When to calibrate ...
then
2. When to reset ...

my trip counter in order to get
---------[78.9]
123456


I could potentially run TRIP A and TRIP B if the computer has 2? I cant remember. just to cover my ****

we have only about a weeks to collaborate and finalise the guide?

is it …?

123457 - 78.9 - which means 123457 -79 - then drive for 0.1 mile and reset the counter again

or

is it 123456 - 78.9 which 123456 -79 - then drive for 0.1 mile and reset the counter again

or

is it 123456.5 - 78.9 which 123456.5 -79 - then drive for 0.1 mile and reset the counter again (to try and give myself enough leeway on the main odo)​

or
should I go back several miles and ensure my trip counter is exactly in tune with the main odo miles for a while to know I can trust when to reset eg when the trip goes over from n.9 to n+1.0 the main odo also goes to the next mile?

come on the prize is me remembering to stop and photo it, with a tin of beans or a tampon or something to prove it's real....

--------

you can tell I need / want some more parts for my TT can't you but have no cash so are now saying a pack of cards and paper battleships are far better than a playstation 10 hundred ?!

 

[Stuart B]

Damn it....

 

[<tuffty/>]

Thats only the post cat sensor

Not coded that out?

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Oh if it's post cat that's okay
I only coded out the 'post cat DTCs' although clearly not fully. My change was to stop the p420 cat threshold limited exceeded our whatever. The car does smell a little rich, I wonder if that's knocked out the sensor.

I do have spare front and rear.