B8 Sepang B8 RS4 Owners Thread

Had an ouchy of a day.

Garage thought it was rears that needed replacing. So went out and disconnected the rears to test the front. Still judder on the fronts but not as bad.

I'm really not sure what happened on that Scotland trip but they're all knackered. Pads on front are just above sensor mark. Discs are 50% frustratingly. Rears are totally gone.

Quoted £2076 from where I got it tested. Already shot @creweaudiparts an email for parts Quotes and I think I'll beat that by quite a bit. Thinking Ferodo pads all round. If only to try something different.

Thoughts?

Not a good day. At least I know. Was expecting rears but definitely not fronts too. Thought it would be either/or. My main concern is this happening again. As I didn't drive like a loony at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That price seems a bit OTT tbh mate. Are you going ceramics or non-ceramics? I ask as when I was looking at changing brake and discs on my S4, non-ceramics from TPS were coming in a bit cheaper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and Thundercliffe81
That price seems a bit OTT tbh mate. Are you going ceramics or non-ceramics? I ask as when I was looking at changing brake and discs on my S4, non-ceramics from TPS were coming in a bit cheaper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ceramics as in pads? I tried to look on TPS today but was in a rush and it only brought up stuff like oil and wiper blades for my car.

The price is basically RRP on the parts bud. Hence why I've asked the good folk at Crewe. There are some even cheaper parts dotted about on eBay too but...bit of mix and match that. Don't fancy it. I'll get this all done cheaper, I'm sure of that.

Just in two minds about going Ferodo for pads. And there's a warranty on the parts from Crewe 'if' I get them fitted at a main dealer. The flip side of that is crazy labour costs which might cancel out any savings on parts.

The wildcard, however, is this happening again and the parts not being covered under the warranty if I get them fitted elsewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man
Had an ouchy of a day.

Garage thought it was rears that needed replacing. So went out and disconnected the rears to test the front. Still judder on the fronts but not as bad.

I'm really not sure what happened on that Scotland trip but they're all knackered. Pads on front are just above sensor mark. Discs are 50% frustratingly. Rears are totally gone.

Quoted £2076 from where I got it tested. Already shot @creweaudiparts an email for parts Quotes and I think I'll beat that by quite a bit. Thinking Ferodo pads all round. If only to try something different.

Thoughts?

Not a good day. At least I know. Was expecting rears but definitely not fronts too. Thought it would be either/or. My main concern is this happening again. As I didn't drive like a loony at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I thought the front discs and pads were new when you bought it?
What is the actual thickness of the disc? (both front and rear)
Where the discs broken in correctly from new, there is a procedure to follow to avoid pad material build up when new.
Are you handy with the spanners it isn't a difficult job to change discs and pads. You will need VCDS to retract the rear parking brake though. I have you the prices I paid the other week, I think Crewe Audi are very competitive though.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man and Thundercliffe81
A little read for you from the RS246 forum. Page 2 & 3 (on mobile) gives you another option that you should also consider and potentially at a better-ish price.

https://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=118221&start=15


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which point in the thread exactly? The RS6/7 brake set up for the RS4 B8?

I dunno man. Just more money haha. I'm impressed that it's a straight fit though. TBH, I'm just overwhelmed with pricing at the moment haha. Piecing each part and getting quotes from all over the joint!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man
I thought the front discs and pads were new when you bought it?
What is the actual thickness of the disc? (both front and rear)
Where the discs broken in correctly from new, there is a procedure to follow to avoid pad material build up when new.
Are you handy with the spanners it isn't a difficult job to change discs and pads. You will need VCDS to retract the rear parking brake though. I have you the prices I paid the other week, I think Crewe Audi are very competitive though.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I think I could manage the fronts. But not sure I'd be confident right now. If I was shadowing somebody then yeah. Covkiller offered his services actually. It's just the warranty. It's got me on the hook just thinking about it.

Ummmm. Yeah. The wording used from Newcastle was "Fronts were recently changed before the previous owner sold it". Front Discs were 10% worn I was told. Rears were 40%. Car is on 50k miles. Front Pads going and rear discs are about to go. Obviously I'd have to add new pads to any new disc set up.

But there's the thing, how can I know how the previous owner bedded in his brakes? Ya know? I drive hard sometimes but this only happened on that 8 hr trip up North and then got really bad on the way back. And has been since. Obviously with that kind of range, I wasn't hooning it. To use fuel wisely. When I got up to Scotland yeah...had a bit of fun but zero hard braking.

There was a lot of braking at slow speeds on last 15 mile of the trip. Due to single track road with countless passing places, blind bends and crests. Honestly, felt like eternity. The one mistake I can say was down to me was putting the e-brake on when they were so hot. But, that's only gonna cook the rears, not the fronts.

So long story short, I ain't got a clue how these fronts are 'warped' (excuse outdated terminology). Incidentally, do you have the OEM bedding in procedure? I've seen the one from Stoptech but not Audi.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man
Here you go, I followed post 4 and it worked for me.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=98821&share_fid=20930&share_type=t

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Similar to the stoptech procedure. Must be pretty universal. Cheers for that. Gonna have to just bite the bullet and keep an eye on all the new components. Getting fluid done too. Might as well.

Could be worth doing something similar to the bedding in procedure every couple of weeks. Like 50% just keep the crap off. Italian tune up for the brakes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: no_idea
All booked in. A weeks time.

OEM discs
Ferodo DS2500 front Pads
Ferodo OE rear pads

Debating:

Braided hoses
Dot 5.1 fluid flush

Got to be honest, I'm concerned about this happening again. If I'd gone to the track, absolutely CANED it and then got a tonne of vibration and judder, I'd be ok with it. But 2 x 8hr trips pretty much taking it easy, just normal brake use...I'm perplexed.

Good news: The A6 Heated fan washers WORK! Haha. It's a small win but that's a real world daily upgrade there for £20. And the boot hydraulics are not squeaking anymore too. I've had good fortune with all the little jobs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: no_idea and V6_Man
All booked in. A weeks time.

OEM discs
Ferodo DS2500 front Pads
Ferodo OE rear pads

Debating:

Braided hoses
Dot 5.1 fluid flush

Got to be honest, I'm concerned about this happening again. If I'd gone to the track, absolutely CANED it and then got a tonne of vibration and judder, I'd be ok with it. But 2 x 8hr trips pretty much taking it easy, just normal brake use...I'm perplexed.

Good news: The A6 Heated fan washers WORK! Haha. It's a small win but that's a real world daily upgrade there for £20. And the boot hydraulics are not squeaking anymore too. I've had good fortune with all the little jobs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd go beaded lines and DOT 5.1 as I don't think the price difference between OE rubber lines and fluid is that significant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
I'd go beaded lines and DOT 5.1 as I don't think the price difference between OE rubber lines and fluid is that significant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah yeah. I agree with the upgrade in principle. Completely.

It's just the brake fluid was changed 3 months ago on collection of car (supposedly on the invoice from Audi service) and it's another big chunk to pay in what's already a huge bill. But, it'll be cheaper than getting it done separately. Just take the hit now.

There's no way for me to bed the brakes in at the time and location of me picking up the car after this job. It's a busy stop/start drive home at various speeds. I'd planned on doing it late that night as I have quieter roads where I live and a dual carriageway for cooling.

Will these brakes be ok as long as I don't do anything too harsh to get crazy heat in them? Haha, proper sensitive about my brakes now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man
Yeah yeah. I agree with the upgrade in principle. Completely.

It's just the brake fluid was changed 3 months ago on collection of car (supposedly on the invoice from Audi service) and it's another big chunk to pay in what's already a huge bill. But, it'll be cheaper than getting it done separately. Just take the hit now.

There's no way for me to bed the brakes in at the time and location of me picking up the car after this job. It's a busy stop/start drive home at various speeds. I'd planned on doing it late that night as I have quieter roads where I live and a dual carriageway for cooling.

Will these brakes be ok as long as I don't do anything too harsh to get crazy heat in them? Haha, proper sensitive about my brakes now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Getting the fluid done after the discs and pads has two advantages I can think of;

-No risk of spilling brake fluid onto your new pads / discs
-Less risk of the fluid reservoir overflowing when you wind the pistons in to fit new pads (as unless the fluid has been topped up to 'MAX' recently there'll be less fluid in the reservoir)

Given that a garage is changing them I am sure they'll keep that in mind. We are not sure the reason for the disc warping but I'd refresh the whole system for a peace of mind and monitor it from there.

Re: the bedding in process I did pretty much what you are planning on doing. Couple of runs at night and around 5:30 in the morning on Saturday. As mine is a complete EBC setup I followed the below process, which without reading it I believe would be the same as the one in the link provided by @no_idea.

https://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
Getting the fluid done after the discs and pads has two advantages I can think of;

-No risk of spilling brake fluid onto your new pads / discs
-Less risk of the fluid reservoir overflowing when you wind the pistons in to fit new pads (as unless the fluid has been topped up to 'MAX' recently there'll be less fluid in the reservoir)

Given that a garage is changing them I am sure they'll keep that in mind. We are not sure the reason for the disc warping but I'd refresh the whole system for a peaceful of mind and monitor it from there.

Re: the bedding in process I did pretty much what you are planning on doing. Couple of runs at night and around 5:30 in the morning on Saturday. As mine is a complete EBC setup I followed the below process, which I believe is the same as the one in the link provided by no-idea.

https://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boom.

All a really big help this guys. Much appreciated. The Ferodo racing line bed in procedure is pretty different. But I think this might be leaning towards their higher end full race products. The DS2500 are entry level race compound with Street refinement.

I think the higher products require much higher speeds in order to get that layer burnished on the disc. But baring in mind that we cannot be certain the previous owner even did any of this, as you say, it will offer that reset peace of mind. Good point. It's money but...at least you then know where you stand.

I'm really keen to get a look behind the discs on the inside of the rotors. I think there'll be a lot to glean from that. I'm going to keep the front discs as they're 50% worn. Might get them slimmed down the line. Emergency use only. Pretty excited actually. It's a big job. I think with this car, there arnt many performance gains to be had so, really focussing on having the best brake and tyre set up I can is important.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and V6_Man
All booked in. A weeks time.

OEM discs
Ferodo DS2500 front Pads
Ferodo OE rear pads

Debating:

Braided hoses
Dot 5.1 fluid flush

Got to be honest, I'm concerned about this happening again. If I'd gone to the track, absolutely CANED it and then got a tonne of vibration and judder, I'd be ok with it. But 2 x 8hr trips pretty much taking it easy, just normal brake use...I'm perplexed.

Good news: The A6 Heated fan washers WORK! Haha. It's a small win but that's a real world daily upgrade there for £20. And the boot hydraulics are not squeaking anymore too. I've had good fortune with all the little jobs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wouldn't get too concerned, remember you don't know where you were starting from with the cars previous life.
Have you actually measured the thickness, what is the 50% worn based on? I think based on the cars mileage your fronts were changed a while ago and they are almost worn out now. If the rears are still the originals I would say they are definitely near the end of their life.
I would be tempted to get the fluid changed at least even if you don't change the flexi hoses. You will know for sure where you are at and the fluid change in the grand scheme is a small cost!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan, V6_Man and Thundercliffe81
I wouldn't get too concerned, remember you don't know where you were starting from with the cars previous life.
Have you actually measured the thickness, what is the 50% worn based on? I think based on the cars mileage your fronts were changed a while ago and they are almost worn out now. If the rears are still the originals I would say they are definitely near the end of their life.
I would be tempted to get the fluid changed at least even if you don't change the flexi hoses. You will know for sure where you are at and the fluid change in the grand scheme is a small cost!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Spot on mate :icon thumright:
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and Thundercliffe81
I wouldn't get too concerned, remember you don't know where you were starting from with the cars previous life.
Have you actually measured the thickness, what is the 50% worn based on? I think based on the cars mileage your fronts were changed a while ago and they are almost worn out now. If the rears are still the originals I would say they are definitely near the end of their life.
I would be tempted to get the fluid changed at least even if you don't change the flexi hoses. You will know for sure where you are at and the fluid change in the grand scheme is a small cost!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Yeah it's all booked in lads. The full monty. Just makes sense. The rears are dead for sure. If the front Pads were changed at 30k miles or so then I guess it makes sense they're very worn now.

But yes, I'm keen to get actual measurement on the front discs once they're off. Gonna be a long week. Getting ferried about in the Fiat 500 this weekend The chariot!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan
The single most important thing I can glean from the whole bedding in proceedure is not stopping with the brakes applied and risking pad transfer, especially with hot discs.
Find yourself a quiet road on an industrial estate near to where you are having them fitted and bed them in there

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and Thundercliffe81
The single most important thing I can glean from the whole bedding in proceedure is not stopping with the brakes applied and risking pad transfer, especially with hot discs.
Find yourself a quiet road on an industrial estate near to where you are having them fitted and bed them in there

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

There could actually be a road. I know he uses one very close for his data pulls (no dyno) with the laptop. Saturday hopefully it's dead there too. Just have to make sure there's enough turning space without applying brakes to a stop. Turning circle is horrendous!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man and no_idea
Yeah it's all booked in lads. The full monty. Just makes sense. The rears are dead for sure. If the front Pads were changed at 30k miles or so then I guess it makes sense they're very worn now.

But yes, I'm keen to get actual measurement on the front discs once they're off. Gonna be a long week. Getting ferried about in the Fiat 500 this weekend The chariot!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When my pad warning light came on at about 30k miles I knew the discs would be at their wear limit. I had checked them 6 months previous and they were close. They were the original discs and pads.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and Thundercliffe81
There could actually be a road. I know he uses one very close for his data pulls (no dyno) with the laptop. Saturday hopefully it's dead there too. Just have to make sure there's enough turning space without applying brakes to a stop. Turning circle is horrendous!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Turn off the HHA too (I am sure you have that option?)

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
When my pad warning light came on at about 30k miles I knew the discs would be at their wear limit. I had checked them 6 months previous and they were close. They were the original discs and pads.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Really? Thought you'd get way more like out of the discs than the pads. Guess it totally depends how it's driven right enough. Ok. All starting to piece together. I've started a complaint with Audi UK. Not just for misleading me on the brakes (that's the straw...) but a host of things with Sytner Group over past couple of years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan
Turn off the HHA too (I am sure you have that option?)

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Already factored that in! That definitely played a part in this. I'm certain. Does that apply the e-brake then let go as you pull away? Or does it apply the foot brakes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man
There could actually be a road. I know he uses one very close for his data pulls (no dyno) with the laptop. Saturday hopefully it's dead there too. Just have to make sure there's enough turning space without applying brakes to a stop. Turning circle is horrendous!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would simply bring the car home and do the bedding in process at night or next morning. As long as you are not braking too hard I believe you'll be fine for the bedding in process. Don't overthink :D. @no_idea is right re: the pad material transferring to the discs it would only happen if they are red hot and you decide to come to a complete stop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
I would simply bring the car home and do the bedding in process at night or next morning. As long as you are not braking too hard I believe you'll be fine for the bedding in process. Don't overthink :D. @no_idea is right re: the pad material transferring to the discs it would only happen if they are red hot and you decide to come to a complete stop.

I will put my hand up and admit that I am indeed over-thinking. Whilst I'm not a pauper that bought let's say...a C6 RS6 for £16k as a daily coz it was cheap with no clue on running costs, there's a middle ground haha. I can't just keep throwing £1500+ down. Just never had this issue before. But then again, the past 2 long term cars I've had were from new. So that explains my braking style is fine. Those were S4s.

I think resurfacing is a better option than skimming from what I've seen. Just seems less invasive. Rotary machine with 80-100grit sanding plate. Seems to get all transfer off.

For future reference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man
Already factored that in! That definitely played a part in this. I'm certain. Does that apply the e-brake then let go as you pull away? Or does it apply the foot brakes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe HHA applies all four brakes, could be wrong though? The parking brake is just the rears.
If you come to a stop and are on a bit of a slope use park. If it is a bit of a hill I wouldn't recommend that though so you will have no choice. Heat is the thing to think about.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man and Thundercliffe81
I will put my hand up and admit that I am indeed over-thinking. Whilst I'm not a pauper that bought let's say...a C6 RS6 for £16k as a daily coz it was cheap with no clue on running costs, there's a middle ground haha. I can't just keep throwing £1500+ down. Just never had this issue before. But then again, the past 2 long term cars I've had were from new. So that explains my braking style is fine. Those were S4s.

I think resurfacing is a better option than skimming from what I've seen. Just seems less invasive. Rotary machine with 80-100grit sanding plate. Seems to get all transfer off.

For future reference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes there is not a lot of material to play with so skimming would soon have them on the wear limit.
It's good to give things a bit of thought, but yes it can soon transcend into a big circle of over thinking

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man and Thundercliffe81
Yes there is not a lot of material to play with so skimming would soon have them on the wear limit.
It's good to give things a bit of thought, but yes it can soon transcend into a big circle of over thinking

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Perhaps I should earn more and not worry? Haha.

Yeah I'm gonna do the run at night. The weather has changed a bit and got a cold period coming along here for a while. I think a late night run would only aid in the cool down. Just have to watch out for the plod wondering what the hell im doing.

"Sorry Officer...I can't stop".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and no_idea
Lads, sorry question regarding 4 wheel alignment. My RS4 had it done while it was with Audi and I just got send the results. Can anyone who understands it shed any light on whether it was done right. It does show green and red boxes which I presume indicated good and bad.

Before:
Front
Left = -1*25' (Green) Right = - 1*19' (Green)
Toe = -0*54 (Red) Toe = 1*08' (Red)
Rear
Left = -1*50' (Red) Right = -1*26' (Green)
Toe = 0*13' (Green) Toe = 0*07' (Green)

After:
Front
Left = -1*31' (Green) Right = - 1*14' (Green)
Toe = -0*09 (Green) Toe = 0*11' (Green)
Rear
Left = -1*37' (Green) Right = -1*26' (Green)
Toe = 0*14' (Green) Toe = 0*07' (Green)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
Lads, sorry question regarding 4 wheel alignment. My RS4 had it done while it was with Audi and I just got send the results. Can anyone who understands it shed any light on whether it was done right. It does show green and red boxes which I presume indicated good and bad.

Before:
Front
Left = -1*25' (Green) Right = - 1*19' (Green)
Toe = -0*54 (Red) Toe = 1*08' (Red)
Rear
Left = -1*50' (Red) Right = -1*26' (Green)
Toe = 0*13' (Green) Toe = 0*07' (Green)

After:
Front
Left = -1*31' (Green) Right = - 1*14' (Green)
Toe = -0*09 (Green) Toe = 0*11' (Green)
Rear
Left = -1*37' (Green) Right = -1*26' (Green)
Toe = 0*14' (Green) Toe = 0*07' (Green)

I'd need to see the graphics print out. Not sure how far 'out' those reds were.

Like this...

ec9a4adb05051b74f4419dd8c802ff43.jpg


Didn't take photo of the after, sorry. Got print out somewhere. I had a bad kerb knock on my rear left. Hence why it's so different on that. In short, if it's all green...you're in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: HB14 and V6_Man
Uploaded before and after mate, should of done this at the start! :thumbs up:
 

Attachments

  • Before.jpg
    Before.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 297
  • After.jpg
    After.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 324
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and Thundercliffe81
Uploaded before and after mate, should of done this at the start! :thumbs up:

Seems barely out mate tbh. Apart from the toe. Haha.

But if it was free then ya laughing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan and HB14
Seems barely out mate tbh. Apart from the toe. Haha.

But if it was free then ya laughing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like I got lucky with my kerb incident. It was free of charge thankfully, although I hope it is when I pick the car up. It was to correct the steering wheel not being straight. Would the toe being out cause that?

Also if the wheels have been refurbished again since the alignment, would that throw it out now?
 
Anyone have any idea if wheel refurbishments causes the alignment to become out of tolerance?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
Anyone have any idea if wheel refurbishments causes the alignment to become out of tolerance?

Good question that. I don't imagine there'd be much more weight (if any) added to the wheel via materials. Wouldn't think so bud.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I wouldn't get too concerned, remember you don't know where you were starting from with the cars previous life.
Have you actually measured the thickness, what is the 50% worn based on? I think based on the cars mileage your fronts were changed a while ago and they are almost worn out now. If the rears are still the originals I would say they are definitely near the end of their life.
I would be tempted to get the fluid changed at least even if you don't change the flexi hoses. You will know for sure where you are at and the fluid change in the grand scheme is a small cost!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Exactly what I was going to say. At least now (after some cost!) you will have a known starting point. Newcastle Audi were probably very over optimistic about wear etc
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
Exactly what I was going to say. At least now (after some cost!) you will have a known starting point. Newcastle Audi were probably very over optimistic about wear etc

Yeah.

The previous owner might have been a heavy braker. It certainly looks that way. But I've identified some applications by myself that certainly didn't help.

The new variables on this car are:

HHA
Adaptive Cruise Control
Big *** brakes

Never had these before. Had two S4's before this with no brake issues. So I'm gonna use the HHA on the commute to work as I don't rag it. I'll not use it on spirited drives and long drives.

Will be more sparing with ACC on longer journeys. I already tap it off when there's a decline as that uses the rears quite a lot.

The engine braking is quite poor on this haha. The big ****** just loves to rev. So it assumes you wanna go all the way if you keep it in second.

The S4 (B9) was great with that. It just held at 3k rpm if I remember correctly. Really good engine braking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan
Hi!

New Sepang owner here to!

About the DS2500 pads, The break in that should be done is supplied in the box with the pads. I had these on my 2018 RS3 and my 997 carrera S (I run an autoparts store here in sweden and sell these pads. (same brakes as RS4, My RS4 has the ceramics unlike yours) You should drive up to about 60-70mph then brake 70-80% pressure down to 5mph isch. repeat about 10-15 times, then let it cool down for about 10 minutes of driving. Then the pad is perfect. BUT Since you now are doing NEW discs on the front. I would say this to you, The discs needs to be carefully drived the first 50 miles or so. Just normal driving, No hard braking just to heat cycle them abit. Then you can bed in the pads. The Pads are fine to bedded in a bit later.

This is how i have done the brakes on the porsche and RS3 and they work perfect.

Is this thread for you car o do you want me to ad my car to pot to? :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thundercliffe81
Hi!

New Sepang owner here to!

About the DS2500 pads, The break in that should be done is supplied in the box with the pads. I had these on my 2018 RS3 and my 997 carrera S (I run an autoparts store here in sweden and sell these pads. (same brakes as RS4, My RS4 has the ceramics unlike yours) You should drive up to about 60-70mph then brake 70-80% pressure down to 5mph isch. repeat about 10-15 times, then let it cool down for about 10 minutes of driving. Then the pad is perfect. BUT Since you now are doing NEW discs on the front. I would say this to you, The discs needs to be carefully drived the first 50 miles or so. Just normal driving, No hard braking just to heat cycle them abit. Then you can bed in the pads. The Pads are fine to bedded in a bit later.

This is how i have done the brakes on the porsche and RS3 and they work perfect.

Is this thread for you car o do you want me to ad my car to pot to? :)

Hey buddy.

No no. Please share. It's acting as a good thread for other owners. Might go quiet from time to time but the more the merrier. Many thanks for the heads up on the brakes.

I had read this too from EBC. The new discs are meant to be taken into account. Even longer than 50 miles. When they feel fine and have a semi decent later on them, I'll try the harder procedure! nice car history btw haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NevMan
Hey buddy.

No no. Please share. It's acting as a good thread for other owners. Might go quiet from time to time but the more the merrier. Many thanks for the heads up on the brakes.

I had read this too from EBC. The new discs are meant to be taken into account. Even longer than 50 miles. When they feel fine and have a semi decent later on them, I'll try the harder procedure! nice car history btw haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hehe, That car history is just a small bunch of them... lets se if a rememeber all ^^ 73' camaro,88' 325i M tech II, 98' 540IA Touring, 00' Red S4 Avant, 09' Evo X, 06' C55 AMG, 04' Nogaro S4 Avant, 99' White S4 Avant, 04' Flash green V70R, 16' S60 Polestar, 06' red 997 carrera S Aero kit, 16' Golf R, 18' Rs3 and 13' Sepang RS4 now :tearsofjoy: and some non mentiable inbetweeners :p

Will put togehter a post with some pics and info on my car :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6_Man, NevMan and Thundercliffe81

Similar threads

Replies
8
Views
5K
C
Replies
28
Views
8K
colicabcadam
C
Replies
3
Views
2K