Cannot rotate engine, hard lock / clunk at 80% rotation on crank.

Stuart B said:
Do these measurements mean a beginner like me doesn't need to make these exact settings of 0.40mm and 0.45mm.
I'm looking for a reliable bit of fun, not 5bhp more at the risk of making precision mistakes.

View attachment 166133
Click to expand...

As long as you have the top slightly tighter than the 2nd you’ll be good to put them in at say 0.35 and 0.4

You just have to be careful with worn cylinders, hence having to measure top, middle and bottom of the bore.
Too big a gap may result in excessive blow by, too small and it might wear the rings excessively for lack of room for thermal expansion, and still create blow by.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Karl, so imagine if untouched ring is top is 0.35, middle is 0.30 and bottom is 0.35

Do I gap 0.35 for the middle as 0.3 is too small?

Do you reckon I can get by with a file alone for such small tolerances?
 
Collected my head, very happy for £108
Now when I dropped it off the owner said there would probably be some unavoidable 'blow holes' looks pretty good to me although considering i cannot read fonts below 8pt even with my glasses on I'm probably not a good judge. Also I assume these are the shims added to give the spring a little more pre-load, fitted to the k04 heads?

Head gasket kit next I suppose, so I can put the head back together. Still not sure about turbo and manifold direction.


Screenshot 20180924 151959 Gallery
Screenshot 20180924 152040 Gallery
Screenshot 20180924 152102 Gallery

Screenshot 20180924 153131 Gallery
 
Stuart B said:
Collected my head, very happy for £108
Now when I dropped it off the owner said there would probably be some unavoidable 'blow holes' looks pretty good to me although considering i cannot read fonts below 8pt even with my glasses on I'm probably not a good judge. Also I assume these are the shims added to give the spring a little more pre-load, fitted to the k04 heads?

Head gasket kit next I suppose, so I can put the head back together. Still not sure about turbo and manifold direction.


View attachment 166167 View attachment 166168 View attachment 166169
View attachment 166170
Click to expand...

Well done Stu, nice save with the repair! Looks good. You know it makes sense to get the AET-380 at this rate you’ll have it all together before Christmas!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hmm I'm not sure about this, both time wise and cost wise. I might consider an interim solution, my biggest fear is doing something wrong regarding the engine internals. And i will only be confident of this maybe after 1500 miles after its been put back together, if I'm confident of the internals then maybe go a step up later on. But I'm also keeping the stock exhaust valves with which won't be ideal for too much power.

When the rods were delivered they came with instructions saying to measure the arp2000 bolts before and after stretching and if stretched by more than 0.24mm then throw away? Does this happen a lot?
 
Can do if you over tighten them or reuse too many times... have seen them fail on reuse before

<tuffty/>
 
The ARP instructions I saw were - do up to 50lb/ft once, undo then repeat to 50lb/ft, undo then do up to 50lb/ft and leave? will this be fine for 99.99% of new installations?

I think, I keep scaring myself with precise details like - make sure all protection oil is removed from the rods before fitting and ensure the rod big end bore and the outer of the big end bearing are totally dry and free from oil and only put oil on the inside of the big end bearing. there's a lot of oil in that area and I am lying on my back under the car.
I cannot even manage to remove the rod caps using my fingers - I'm so weak and feeble.
 
Good to see your getting on with this staurt & taking it on yourself....mucho respecto.
A bit daunting no doubt but you've plenty of good reliable info here from fellow members so I wouldn't worry about getting something wrong it's not like your gonna go ahead with something until your 100% confident it's right eh but I can understand your scepticism.
Personally if it was me & the possibility of adding more power later on which sounds inevitable Ie a hybrid you'd be saving yourself a ball ache by adding the exhaust valves now & possibly a ported chinafold to go with your ko4 for a good stage 2 car. You'd have the foundations layed for the hybrid when the funds & itch for that bit more if they should arise & if not you've a solid stage 2
Keep up the good work:icon thumright:
 
  • Like
Reactions: superkarl
I'm still considering a hybrid, just a cheaper package that's why I have split the turbo into hot side and snail. There was nothing wrong with the previous turbo. Looking at updated CHRA, 11psi actuator and chinafold or actually a different tubular manifold. (Not relentless)
 
I think you should at least change the exhaust valve's while you have it all apart.
You don't want to do all this build and then add the hybrid and a then a valve fail.
For the sake of a couple hundred quid it would be peace of mind.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ADs3
Stuart B said:
I'm still considering a hybrid, just a cheaper package that's why I have split the turbo into hot side and snail. There was nothing wrong with the previous turbo. Looking at updated CHRA, 11psi actuator and chinafold or actually a different tubular manifold. (Not relentless)
Click to expand...

You can’t just change the CHRA, the wheels will be different sizes and trims so the stock comp cover and turbine housing won’t accommodate hybrid wheels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Don't bother with that manifold, as with most Relentless offerings they love to crack (which is a shame as those actually flow reasonably well). You'll only end up having to replace it in the near future.

Sadly there are few better options about in terms of flow (press Chinafold takes the win there I believe) but I'd take a performance hit for added reliability every day of the week.

When the Pro4 was released I actually won a free one. Still wasn't enough of an incentive for me to ever run it, so it found a new home almost as soon as it arrives.
 
Thanks, for the feedback on the manifold, I'm not interested if it is a relentless v4, as everyone complains about them cracking. I thought the relentless manifolds were like my fake one I didn't fit, that must have been a v3 - it was a terrible fit and almost impossible to do up.

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/s3-ebay-exhaust-manifold-no-dissing-please.276724/

Has anyone had any joy porting a stock manifold, I know they are limited to 300?

So I think I'll go the ported chinafold route.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ADs3 and Rainbird
I'd go for the ported chinafold and have a go at doing it yourself too, make a template if the hot side on the turbo is opened out, get some burrs & go for it. I got mine back & after looking at it there's not allot to it that you couldn't do yourself......Just trawl the net for pics of previously done manifolds & go from there mate you'll save yourself £ just for a bit of time & effort. Obviously won't be like B5 sell with there aet package but I bet you can do a good job of it if you put in the effort
 
Hmm I was considering this, I'm not expecting this setup to be anywhere near anything an expert produces, but I just don't have the cash to do this properly, some people might say 'don't bother then' but I still need the car working just can't go to the nth degree.
 
Big thanks to everyone involved for sending out a replacement piston.. looks like new :) i will call up tomorrow to sort out the postage as your card machine was having a banana. Considering legging it, but realised you had my address ;)

Getting my new inlet valve delivered. Still in a quandary over exhaust valves... they are either 80 quid, or 300 quid...

Screenshot 20180925 210646 Gallery
 
thats what I mean the stock ones are 80 but supertech Inconel are 300 - what would be the point in buying stock ones? or would new stock ones be better than existing stock ones? I think stock are "bi-metal"?

is the issue the pressure or the heat? or a mixture of both?
 
so ordered chinafold from aliexpress - paid a tenner extra to use paypal - I hope I got the "newer" version as the cheaper ones had fins on the collector topside and none of the other ones I have seen have these (those ones are 20 quid less)
 
Stuart B said:
thats what I mean the stock ones are 80 but supertech Inconel are 300 - what would be the point in buying stock ones? or would new stock ones be better than existing stock ones? I think stock are "bi-metal"?

is the issue the pressure or the heat? or a mixture of both?
Click to expand...

The stock valves are sodium filled, the main enemy is heat, from what I understand (and someone please correct me if I’m talking crap, lol) at high temperatures the sodium which usually would aid in transferring heat becomes ineffective and can lead to damage of the valve itself, so ko4 hybrids which produce higher gas temperatures would need something more suitable like inconel to endure those temperatures

Stuart B said:
so ordered chinafold from aliexpress - paid a tenner extra to use paypal - I hope I got the "newer" version as the cheaper ones had fins on the collector topside and none of the other ones I have seen have these (those ones are 20 quid less)
Click to expand...

What’s your plan for porting it Stuart?
 
Not sure yet, I might try and follow an example on the TT Forum - although they still had a misfire at 6K. It's weird as the German re-seller of these manifolds for £430 dont look like they have done any porting?

This is interesting? is this a custom manifold - I have never seen one like this before?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8t-20v-k04-manifold-/283135705578

Upload 2018 9 26 8 42 33




My issues are I sort of need to buy everything else to put the car back together

bottom end - I have rods, rings, bearings, pistons, sump, still need oil pickup o-ring (sometimes it is cheaper to buy a replacement than the o-ring or gaskets, I bought a oil level sensor blanking plate as it was £3 cheaper than just the gasket which I needed) - so hopefully that will go together at the weekend.

head - manifold is 7-30 days delivery, but I need a head gasket kit and cam bolt and a decision about exhaust valves before I rebuild the head.

turbo - I still need oil feed pipe and CHRA, uprated actuator and understand the correct alignment of hot side, chra and compression housing

The order I want to put it together is bottom end, turbo and then get the head put on - after this the pipework and modifications for the PCV delete.

I also still need a new turbo coolant after-run pump.

you can really appreciate why professional engine rebuilds are so expensive
 
china fold is cheap to buy and known to work reliably when ported... just get one of those...

<tuffty/>
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tj 0785
I know that was my point, i paid £204 for gen2 from aliexpress.
 
Stuart B said:
Not sure yet, I might try and follow an example on the TT Forum - although they still had a misfire at 6K. It's weird as the German re-seller of these manifolds for £430 dont look like they have done any porting?

This is interesting? is this a custom manifold - I have never seen one like this before?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8t-20v-k04-manifold-/283135705578

View attachment 166285



My issues are I sort of need to buy everything else to put the car back together

bottom end - I have rods, rings, bearings, pistons, sump, still need oil pickup o-ring (sometimes it is cheaper to buy a replacement than the o-ring or gaskets, I bought a oil level sensor blanking plate as it was £3 cheaper than just the gasket which I needed) - so hopefully that will go together at the weekend.

head - manifold is 7-30 days delivery, but I need a head gasket kit and cam bolt and a decision about exhaust valves before I rebuild the head.

turbo - I still need oil feed pipe and CHRA, uprated actuator and understand the correct alignment of hot side, chra and compression housing

The order I want to put it together is bottom end, turbo and then get the head put on - after this the pipework and modifications for the PCV delete.

I also still need a new turbo coolant after-run pump.

you can really appreciate why professional engine rebuilds are so expensive
Click to expand...

Have you a link to the TT example?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
okay so I cannot split the caps off the PEC rods, I know this seems ridiculous; but I dont want to damage anything trying to prise them apart - do they have raised guides or something?
 
rock them off... I sometimes clamp the bottom half in a workmate (soft wood or similar jaws) and waggle the rod to separate... make sure you keep them together though... and make sure tang slots are orientated correctly... tangs should be inlet side of the engine

<tuffty/>
 
Okay thanks, I will check the orientation of the rods against the piston and the pistons against the block. This is why Bill provided instructions using layout paint first. I assume a sharpie is fine to start with. Numbered on the correct end of each.
 
just to be sure?

1. the piston indent always face to the front of the car

20180928 211019



2. the tangs are the indent to help locate the big end bearings and they all need to face front of engine too.

20180928 211038


all of my rods currently have the tangs to the rear, it'll only take a moment to swap them round, just wondering if it is a standard more than a requirement - so that everyone knows the way around they will be.

Thanks - I want to try and get the bottom end done this weekend - then october turbo, november head and running on kiddy power, december fuelling, January mapping. #slowwinner
 
Piston cut out is for the centre inlet valve so yeah, that faces inlet side as does the tangs

<tuffty/>
 
still miles away (still owe Bill for postage too ;) too but I will settle up good...)

this arrived (yes the vinegar)

20181004 204335
20181004 204425
20181004 204603
20181004 204635


I know nothing about porting but it is clear to see that the chinafold is not opened up as much as stock at the exhaust ports.


And I have the new turbo CHRA.

20181004 205253


and some side by side comparisons with the old one.

20181004 205348

20181004 205410
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
audi upgrades
some samples for you to compare against of what we do for porting them.
chinafold-gen2_2.JPG

42mm gasket match blended into the cast runners.. Gasket template to ensure they align. (often casting does not as supplied!)

47mm on ours on inlet to match & align to the K04-380 we do.. runners heavily ported where they feed into the collector area. Intially bored 18mm deep x 47mm diameter by CNC. The rest is hard graft and several carbide cutters, flap wheels etc
chinafold-gen2_1.JPG

IMAG1169.jpg

IMAG1699.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: superkarl
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Help required pls - Clunk on front left wheel rotation - car off the road at the mo
Replies
2
Views
917
beachbuggy
beachbuggy
mephisto
Rumble on lock at low speed
Replies
5
Views
730
Brad1011
B
Powelly
Car feels "floaty" at 80+
Replies
9
Views
2K
Powelly
Powelly
T
clunk clunk clunk
Replies
18
Views
2K
Markeyboy
Markeyboy
Nogaro-S3
S3 8L...locking up at rear on full lock???
Replies
91
Views
12K
Pete MacKean
P
Top
Back