Been looking but can't find much info on a how to remove the turbo on my s3. Can it be done from the under side or on top? What's the best way to do it if I'm doing it DIY style. I can get access to a four poster ramp. I want to remove the standard ko4 and replace it with a beach buggy hybrid.
How do I remove the turbo k04.
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Thanks for that tuffty the hybrid I'm buying has all the turbo housing already on it with ported hot side . So I'm trying to work out if that all drops down with the turbo when it comes out the bottom ?
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So got a bit delayed fitting my hybrid. Money wife etc . I'm hoping to start it in the next few weeks . Don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do it. Im replacing the standard downpipe with the 3inch as well So I'm going to fit it from under side. My only question is once the hellish job of removing the down pipe is off. Can you get good access to remove the turbo once the downpipe is out the way?
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if you are fitting a downpipe and hybrid turbo aren't you also going to replace the manifold?
I took the head off to get the downpipe to turbo bolts undone as they were rusted. then you can get to the turbo and the downpipe and the manifold easily.
I took the head off to get the downpipe to turbo bolts undone as they were rusted. then you can get to the turbo and the downpipe and the manifold easily.
I'm keeping the standard manifold. Rang badger5 and they said to remove the head. But then you got headgasket to do then plus cambelt waterpump etc. So I want to go from underneath . I want 300bhp which I think is doable. With just the 3inch the turbo alone. And a good map.
Why you keeping the manifold surely nows the time to do it while the turbos off you? Are you doing the rods aswell?
The beach buggy hybrid rated at 330 bhp (I think) on a well flowing engine the standard manifold will be a big restriction.
The beach buggy hybrid rated at 330 bhp (I think) on a well flowing engine the standard manifold will be a big restriction.
I'm not doing the rods and not the manifold hence hopefully 300bhp. I no standard ko4 could do 275 on a healthy engine . But the way I see it I paid 650 for the hybrid 160 for the downpipe and Jr filter. So if I fit it all myself get it mapped Its a fairly cheap build for 300bhp
And will end up costing you more when a rod bends take your time and do it properly.people tend to do all the upgrades needed for a reason Just my 2pence worth
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This will end in tears. You're better off keeping your stock turbo, stock rods, stock injectors, stock manifold and just sticking with a stage 2 270bhp. (air intake, FMIC, DP)
Taking the head off will allow you to service and check that too. It'll cost about £100 in parts and take about 8 hours. You don't have to change the timing belt, but you may as well, whilst it's all apart what clutch do you have?
Taking the head off will allow you to service and check that too. It'll cost about £100 in parts and take about 8 hours. You don't have to change the timing belt, but you may as well, whilst it's all apart what clutch do you have?
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So was going to replace the injectors any recommendations on which ones? As there is so many . I was under the impression that as long as u keep the torque below 300. Then the engine should take it all day long ? Fuel pump is standard at the moment. I no its an old engine and there is always a chance of det . But as long as I have a progresive map She should be fine.
Injector wise Bosch 550cc are the next ones up from standard. You’ll need to replace the fuel pump, it’ll only be a matter of time the old one will give in. Replacement fuel pump would be a DW65 in tank pump. But if your going to this extent, may as well Hybrid it and be done with it. If your taking the head off.... may as well drop the sump, bang in some rods and a new oil pump, etc and you’ll effectively have a solid rebuilt engine. If you don’t want to spend all this money, just take it to stage 2
Already replaced the oil pump as the pick up failed a few months back . Is it possible to fit rods from just taking the sump off and not the head ? Thanks for the advice guys I am still thinking of doing the rods but at the same time if I can get it to a safe 300bhp with just fmic dp injectors my hybrid map. That's the way I would like to go as I already have all these parts just not injectors And I can do the labour myself turbo wise. But not sure about fitting rods myself head off etc .
No it’s head a head off job if you can do the Labour do the rods you can bend a rod at any power level the more power the bigger the risk
OK guys we'll I'm going to fit the hybrid injectors get a map and see how we get on Car gets driven like a grandad most of the time with a few blasts here and there. So I think it has a good chance of being OK. No more then any other car anyway. Also best to go bosh for the 550 injectors? Or if anyone on here has some for sale ?
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Unplug the N75 electrically and leave fitting the 550's until you go to get it mapped...
Injectors...
https://badger5.co.uk/fuelling/550-cc-bosch-injectors-c-w-adapters
<tuffty/>
Injectors...
https://badger5.co.uk/fuelling/550-cc-bosch-injectors-c-w-adapters
<tuffty/>
300bhp on stock manifold? Good luck with that. They’re on their **** around 275-285 bhp, not to mention the EGT’s.
There’s two ways of doing this. The cheap wrong way or the expensive right way.
You could get away with FMIC, inlet pipe, air filter, downpipe, sports cat, injectors and have 280ish bhp. Stock turbo, no rods. Rod friendly mapping. To be honest you’re gambling abit with rods with this as you’ll be around 300 lbs ft.
After that, you’re pushing things and it gets expensive to do it right. If you want 300 you need to get a manifold, fuel pump, hybrid turbo, rods. With a good hybrid you could be up to 330-350 bhp etc. At the mileage you’re likely at, your valve stem seals are probably ready to be replaced.
You can take the turbo off from underneath but it’s abit of a nightmare. There’s no easy way to get the turbo off unfortunately.
If I were you, I’d either do option 1, the cheapest option for 280ish.
Option 2, the expensive but proper way for 330-350ish
Or push your luck chasing 300 on a stock motor and stock manifold.
We don’t do rods etc for fun it’s necessary. There’s no way to do rods without removing the head either.
There’s two ways of doing this. The cheap wrong way or the expensive right way.
You could get away with FMIC, inlet pipe, air filter, downpipe, sports cat, injectors and have 280ish bhp. Stock turbo, no rods. Rod friendly mapping. To be honest you’re gambling abit with rods with this as you’ll be around 300 lbs ft.
After that, you’re pushing things and it gets expensive to do it right. If you want 300 you need to get a manifold, fuel pump, hybrid turbo, rods. With a good hybrid you could be up to 330-350 bhp etc. At the mileage you’re likely at, your valve stem seals are probably ready to be replaced.
You can take the turbo off from underneath but it’s abit of a nightmare. There’s no easy way to get the turbo off unfortunately.
If I were you, I’d either do option 1, the cheapest option for 280ish.
Option 2, the expensive but proper way for 330-350ish
Or push your luck chasing 300 on a stock motor and stock manifold.
We don’t do rods etc for fun it’s necessary. There’s no way to do rods without removing the head either.
Good advice Jonnyderv . Your right I no I would be on limits taking it to 300 In Stock form. But feel its doable but that's not to say engine still might die . I am leaning towards stage 2 a bit more now 280 would be good enough I have fmic and downpipe ready to fit will I bennifit from fitting injectors at that level of tune ? Is it 275 the standard ones max out at ? And tuffty is that 249 per injector ?
£249 for 4x injectors including adaptors.
I'll give you two guide prices, with that you can make a your own mind up. These prices are approx starting with a completely standard car.
Price 1 - £2000+/- will get you to stage 2, then its down to you and your mapper to get a safe limit on those parts, like the others... I suspect 280bhp
Price 2 - £6000+/- Will get you a solidly rebuilt engine and all supporting mods to run Hybrid. If you want more power (Big Turbo) add another £3000+/- on top of that.
Don't risk squeezing 300bhp - 300 ft/lbs out of your car on stock internals, you'll end up far worse than you started. Reliability is key with any tuned car
I'll give you two guide prices, with that you can make a your own mind up. These prices are approx starting with a completely standard car.
Price 1 - £2000+/- will get you to stage 2, then its down to you and your mapper to get a safe limit on those parts, like the others... I suspect 280bhp
Price 2 - £6000+/- Will get you a solidly rebuilt engine and all supporting mods to run Hybrid. If you want more power (Big Turbo) add another £3000+/- on top of that.
Don't risk squeezing 300bhp - 300 ft/lbs out of your car on stock internals, you'll end up far worse than you started. Reliability is key with any tuned car
By the way, those are prices are for your engine and everything related.....
There are other costs to consider too, which are suspension, brakes, tyres, DMF and clutch, possibly engine/gearbox mounts one in particular is the Dogbone. All food for thought
There are other costs to consider too, which are suspension, brakes, tyres, DMF and clutch, possibly engine/gearbox mounts one in particular is the Dogbone. All food for thought
You’ll need injectors at that level of tune, the 550cc injectors tuffty linked are ideal. As mentioned that’s priced for 4x injectors with EV14 adaptors so they’ll fit.
Standard manifold is too restrictive for 300. Seriously just stick with 280 odd or save up and do it properly. It will cost you more in the long run.
Standard manifold is too restrictive for 300. Seriously just stick with 280 odd or save up and do it properly. It will cost you more in the long run.
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Haha I bet it goes like a 1.9 TDi as well. Moral of the story..... just don’t do it 
S3evil34 - Fortunately there’s an abundance of information on these engines and cars on this forum! Read a few build threads and get a feel for what’s in store.
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S3evil34 - Fortunately there’s an abundance of information on these engines and cars on this forum! Read a few build threads and get a feel for what’s in store.
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Why do people insist on maxing every option.
You’ve got the turbo, Just have it custom mapped (it will need custom regardless of setup) to the hardwares capabilities. It will make what it’s able to within safe parameters. The end.
You’ve got the turbo, Just have it custom mapped (it will need custom regardless of setup) to the hardwares capabilities. It will make what it’s able to within safe parameters. The end.
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The standard injectors max out around 270hp so you could stick with stock injectors if you were to go ahead with that set up but if you have a hybrid would be a bit of a waste running it at that power without utilising it’s full potential
If your car is just used for the occasional B road blast I would personally stick with your original idea and roll the dice on a stock engine and cap power at 300hp, the hybrid is the one I sold you and it’s in brilliant health with ported hotside, sounds like you’ll hv same set up as me apart from manifold and i squeezed 338hp from that bbt turbo, assuming your engine is in decent health, or who knows, could be better than mine, I would think 300 is very achievable
Good luck mate.
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I wouldn’t, the one I had, the flange was no bigger than stock when measured and it cracked on pretty much every weld, photos floating about on here I’ll see if I can find them. Seems a lottery on build quality, some seem okay and others are crap like mine. To be fair from what I’ve heard most tend to crack eventually. I’d only get a badger5 one.
I’ve heard about these relentless manifolds. Not actually seen pictures of the cracks, etc. Not what you won’t when swapping them out is a pain in the ***! It’s a Badger5 manifold for me.
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It was on the car maybe, 3-4 months. Never flowed properly, wasn’t until the flange was actually measured that I realised why. Awful thing. Got a free replacement and that went straight on eBay.
