B&O sub replacement

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hungabunga

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The B&O system is not very good when compared to the HK in the bmw, this is most likely due to the bmw having 2 under seat subs.
The current sub does do well with hip hop or r&b hheavy bass notes and wants to rattle more than make useful bass.
I have read plenty of threads on the b8 and 8.5 but nothing on the B9. Is there any info available on the power going to the sub and I am guessing it will be dual 8ohm.
I have found a home audio sub https://www.connevans.co.uk/product/5566531/MZMSPH250CTC/Hi-Fi-subwoofer--2x-150W-MAX--2x-8-Ohm
Which may be better. The other option is to go for a car audio sub and run a separate amp. The only issue is that there is mention of internal mics that cause issues and need to be disconnect but I am hoping they can be coded out.
Does anyone have wiring diagram for the B9 B&O system

Thanks
Sully
 
I listen to a wide range of music lol but the B&O does struggle with heavy low notes.
I read that thread already but not giving much info
I have decided to go the sub + amp route and have ordered a 8inch kicker compc as they are apparently well suited to infinite baffle setups. I have a audiocontrol lc2i line output converter and will pick up a small mono block amp. I think this will allow me to lower the bass setting so the rest of the speakers are not being pushed, I don’t have separate sub control in the mmi and as you know it’s difficult to get Audi to update.
Car is booked in as one of my door speakers is blowing and Center speaker has a buzz so once that’s sorted will go ahead with the install.
I am concerned about the active noise cancellation causing issues and ideally would like to disable via vcds rather than disconnect cables.
How far did you get with your research and have you decided to upgrade the sub.
Sully
 
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audi upgrades
Just found this for disabling ANC

Go to module 47 (sound system), adaptation, and from drop-down menu go towards the very end (long list) and select 'active noise reduction; activation'. Set it to OFF. Turn ignition OFF and then back ON.
 
I know it was tongue in cheek, I spend far too much time on forums to take offence.
That is a very useful search and it turns out the sub is a 10" instead of an 8" so just cancelled my sub order.

How come you decided not to change the sub in the end
Thanks for you help
 
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I do think the BnO is a bit naff compared to the offerings from BMW and Merc. Even the plastic speaker grilles annoy me.
 
Of course there is always the rest of the cheap plastic naff festooned inside both their cars...
 
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hungabunga said:
Just found this for disabling ANC

Go to module 47 (sound system), adaptation, and from drop-down menu go towards the very end (long list) and select 'active noise reduction; activation'. Set it to OFF. Turn ignition OFF and then back ON.
Click to expand...
Tried looking for this on obd11, can't find it anywhere
 
hungabunga said:
I listen to a wide range of music lol but the B&O does struggle with heavy low notes.
I read that thread already but not giving much info
I have decided to go the sub + amp route and have ordered a 8inch kicker compc as they are apparently well suited to infinite baffle setups. I have a audiocontrol lc2i line output converter and will pick up a small mono block amp. I think this will allow me to lower the bass setting so the rest of the speakers are not being pushed, I don’t have separate sub control in the mmi and as you know it’s difficult to get Audi to update.
Car is booked in as one of my door speakers is blowing and Center speaker has a buzz so once that’s sorted will go ahead with the install.
I am concerned about the active noise cancellation causing issues and ideally would like to disable via vcds rather than disconnect cables.
How far did you get with your research and have you decided to upgrade the sub.
Sully
Click to expand...
I have gone this route aswell. However a bigger set up. Where are you tapping off for speaker inputs?
 
h1r4 said:
I have gone this route aswell. However a bigger set up. Where are you tapping off for speaker inputs?
Click to expand...
What is your setup like? I am trying to stay away from big mods, have still got the dc lvl 4 in custom ported box with 1200rms amp in the garage. I will prob at some stage upgrade the 4x6 mid bass drivers in the front doors with some decent 6.5” mids but want to see how balanced it is with a sub first.
I will be taking the high level inputs by tapping into the existing sub connector using quick connect splice connectors.
 
hungabunga said:
What is your setup like? I am trying to stay away from big mods, have still got the dc lvl 4 in custom ported box with 1200rms amp in the garage. I will prob at some stage upgrade the 4x6 mid bass drivers in the front doors with some decent 6.5” mids but want to see how balanced it is with a sub first.
I will be taking the high level inputs by tapping into the existing sub connector using quick connect splice connectors.
Click to expand...
I have a 1250w rms sub, which is being powered by a 2500w rms amp. Let me just say that it sounds good! I wanted to change the front speakers but I'm not sure what to change them with and what adapters to use
 
h1r4 said:
I have a 1250w rms sub, which is being powered by a 2500w rms amp. Let me just say that it sounds good! I wanted to change the front speakers but I'm not sure what to change them with and what adapters to use
Click to expand...
Is the sub mounted on the rear deck or sub box in boot and what did you use to get input signal
If you are in the northwest would be good if I could have a listen

Sully
 
hungabunga said:
Is the sub mounted on the rear deck or sub box in boot and what did you use to get input signal
If you are in the northwest would be good if I could have a listen

Sully
Click to expand...
I've got a ported box for a 12inch sub. I did tap off the b&o subwoofer in the boot. But I've changed it to get the signal from the front speakers it has a much better signal and picks up more bass notes imo

I'm in South East mate
 
Is the signal at the front not crosses over to cut out bass freq as I can see a need for the tiny 4x6 midbass drivers trying to play them.
How and where did you tap the wires at the amp or at the door speakers?
 
My front door speakers are still in its place. However in these speakers there are two spade connectors which I've disconnected and put my own wire with a space connector. This wire then goes to the lc2i in the boot. Which gives me my signal. The signal I'm getting is good imo, if I could replace the lc2i with a something better I would but that will cost too much.

I did look at tapping off the actual amp who he is located in the lhs of the boot but there are way to many wires and I couldn't figure out what is what.
 
h1r4 said:
I've got a ported box for a 12inch sub. I did tap off the b&o subwoofer in the boot. But I've changed it to get the signal from the front speakers it has a much better signal and picks up more bass notes imo

I'm in South East mate
Click to expand...
How are you finding this set up in comparison with the stock B&O set up?
 
It's good! But the parcel shelf area needs to be sound deading. There's near enough 1000w rms being produced so obviously it'll rattle. However next car i get I'd want to get it professionally done. It's too much hassle.

I've had a few problems with it over the past year or so. Mostly my fault. But atm I need to change the wiring from 4 gauge to 0 gauge as I bought a more powerful amp a month ago and the 4 gauge is causing me issues haha
 
Having had 3 of the previous gen A5's all with B&O but with less watts the system in the B9 A4 is pretty awful. Yes, it supposedly has more watts but if you know anything about decent audio more watts doesn't always meant better sound. The housing isn't sufficient so you get vibrations/distortion with certain music. Rarely do I ever turn the volume up full as it sounds so damn bad. I have a rather eclectic taste to say the least so it's not limited to one genre. It is slightly better if you're plugged in using the IPOD USB connection. But bluetooth allows you to adjust the input level. It's never taken me so long to configure the stereo in a car and I still find myself tweaking it at time. I do wish they would either start from scratch and actually design the sound system properly and test it in the real world, with real people who use it day in day out or, change the maker as B&O isn't what it was. Also, if you plug your IPOD in using the USB it then takes a good 5 minutes to settle down and not keep going to list and single track view because it can't cope with album artwork.
 
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Andy-1878 said:
Having had 3 of the previous gen A5's all with B&O but with less watts the system in the B9 A4 is pretty awful. Yes, it supposedly has more watts but if you know anything about decent audio more watts doesn't always meant better sound. The housing isn't sufficient so you get vibrations/distortion with certain music. Rarely do I ever turn the volume up full as it sounds so damn bad. I have a rather eclectic taste to say the least so it's not limited to one genre. It is slightly better if you're plugged in using the IPOD USB connection. But bluetooth allows you to adjust the input level. It's never taken me so long to configure the stereo in a car and I still find myself tweaking it at time. I do wish they would either start from scratch and actually design the sound system properly and test it in the real world, with real people who use it day in day out or, change the maker as B&O isn't what it was. Also, if you plug your IPOD in using the USB it then takes a good 5 minutes to settle down and not keep going to list and single track view because it can't cope with album artwork.
Click to expand...
I think they just charge for the badge as the speakers do not seam like high quality ones. There is also a lack of control with no eq so you can’t fine tune to your preference. The B&O in the bmw was a lot better
 
hungabunga said:
I think they just charge for the badge as the speakers do not seam like high quality ones. There is also a lack of control with no eq so you can’t fine tune to your preference. The B&O in the bmw was a lot better
Click to expand...
I'd be interested to see what the £6k B&O on the new A7 is like. Not that I'd pay that for it but I'd like to hear the difference as,for the price it should be spot on in every sense! I think the HK in an 02/05 & 08 BMW were all better than this current A4 B&O
 
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