Want to fix your RS3 Exhaust Rattle? Do this.

[Javbomb]

First, watch this video in full to get a clear idea on whats going on:



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I just did this to my car, its a little fiddly to get the spring back in, but I managed to do the whole lot in about 15 minutes. Completely worth it to be rid of this issue.

I jacked the car up on that one side, and used a jack stand just to help. But the video outlines what you actually need to do very clearly and I can confirm our valve system is identical...

Here is after about 2 mins...

Here is the stretched spring. I actually had too much trouble getting this amount of stretch back in, so I pushed it back about 50% of the way between the pic above and where it is here, so as the video says aim for about 4mm, but personally I would do closer to 6 or 8 just to make sure you solve the problem...

Here is the video from last year of the dreaded full blown rattle just for a reminder:



And today, excuse the curious kid



I can assure you the issue is 100% fixed. there is ZERO noise coming from the valves. Any noise that is there now is coming from upstream, probably wastegate, I couldnt care less, this is DRASTICALLY fixed by my book.

Valve operates just as it did before, its instant and you can hear the valve opening and closing with zero difficulty, so I am not really worried about the little valve motor.

I actually have my valves disconnected anyway in the past week or so because I prefer the added sound. But I really wanted to fix this issue anyway, and I am really glad I did.

The small amount of raspiness you hear in the new video when I rev between modes is coming from the whole exhaust pipe upstream, so that's completely normal, and I confirmed the sound was coming out of both pipes, so that's definitely zero valve rattle.

 

[monopole]

Should be made a sticky for the FL cars

(PFL valve actuators are different so won't work)

 

[monopole]

My PFL valve actuator in operation

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AvSpT9nWLJVOoEgK-EGJ_9LX3SpO

If that didn't work I'll get a yT vid sorted.

 

[Javbomb]

My PFL valve actuator in operation

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AvSpT9nWLJVOoEgK-EGJ_9LX3SpO

Interesting, that still seems like a coil which could be stretched though if there was an issue.

I didnt know PFL cars also had the rattle?

 

[DW81]

I’m a PFL owner and have never suffered from this exhaust rattle.

 

[T-800]

First, watch this video in full to get a clear idea on whats going on:



-

I just did this to my car, its a little fiddly to get the spring back in, but I managed to do the whole lot in about 15 minutes. Completely worth it to be rid of this issue.

I jacked the car up on that one side, and used a jack stand just to help. But the video outlines what you actually need to do very clearly and I can confirm our valve system is identical...

Here is after about 2 mins...

Here is the stretched spring. I actually had too much trouble getting this amount of stretch back in, so I pushed it back about 50% of the way between the pic above and where it is here, so as the video says aim for about 4mm, but personally I would do closer to 6 or 8 just to make sure you solve the problem...

Here is the video from last year of the dreaded full blown rattle just for a reminder:



And today, excuse the curious kid



I can assure you the issue is 100% fixed. there is ZERO noise coming from the valves. Any noise that is there now is coming from upstream, probably wastegate, I couldnt care less, this is DRASTICALLY fixed by my book.

Valve operates just as it did before, its instant and you can hear the valve opening and closing with zero difficulty, so I am not really worried about the little valve motor.

I actually have my valves disconnected anyway in the past week or so because I prefer the added sound. But I really wanted to fix this issue anyway, and I am really glad I did.

The small amount of raspiness you hear in the new video when I rev between modes is coming from the whole exhaust pipe upstream, so that's completely normal, and I confirmed the sound was coming out of both pipes, so that's definitely zero valve rattle.

Funnily enough i was watching the BMW clips the other day.........

There's another one where a guy fiddles around with his waste-gate to eliminate the rattle BMW M cars suffer with.........

 

[T-800]

I do know some PFL owners suffered with the rattle though........

As @Javbomb says looking at Mono's clip I'd say maybe it could be 'opened' out a little to increase tension/it's size.........

I suppose this new design Audi have moved to is more susceptible to constant Heat/cold/ movement cycles (just listen to it when reversing etc...flaps are going nuts ticking away) and as a result that spring tension is only going to get weaker over time.

Maybe once the spring becomes too weak to retain being opened out there will be someone manufacturing a stronger replacement.

 

[Terminator x]

Should be made a sticky for the FL cars

(PFL valve actuators are different so won't work)

PFL doesn't make the noise though?

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[monopole]

Mine did and it was horrible, hence the swap to milltek. @Beebee-one can assure you it was bad. I know other PFL owners also suffered so the rattle valve is nothing new on the FL car but luckily i have yet to hear the valve rattle, but as Sean says over time it my be inevitable to everyone due to that spring design???

 

[T-800]

I think the main thing is as @Javbomb has demonstrated that at the very least the rear flap rattle can be sorted if you are handy with the spanner’s.

 

[Javbomb]

I think the main thing is as @Javbomb has demonstrated that at the very least the rear flap rattle can be sorted if you are handy the the spanner’s.

You don't even have to be super handy... The only thing that is a little tricky is getting the damn spring back on the groove for the flap due to the tension. Most people should be able to tackle this within about 20 minutes of fiddling.

If you even own a 10mm spanner you should be equipped to do it if you know what I mean

 

[monopole]

I was advised by milltek, when refitting the actuator onto the exhaust, only screw on very lightly at first {couple of threads} . Operate the exhaust valves by switching from comfort to dynamic and back and the spring will automatically pick up the valves during rotation. You can then fully tighten the actuator in place.

 

[Javbomb]

I was advised by milltek, when refitting the actuator onto the exhaust, only screw on very lightly at first {couple of threads} . Operate the exhaust valves by switching from comfort to dynamic and back and the spring will automatically pick up the valves during rotation. You can then fully tighten the actuator in place.

Hmmmm that wouldn't really work far as I can tell. Better to just fidget and get the thing in there. You can end up with the spring sitting beside the groove for the flap and not in the groove.

 

[monopole]

Yeah, pretty effective for the PFL to do it that way

 

[Javbomb]

Yeah, pretty effective for the PFL to do it that way

Oh I see. Yeah well I wish that worked for the FL, its a bit of a pain, but worth it.

 

[monopole]

I can't see why the same method wouldn't work for FL, you can tell if the spring is correctly located before fully tightening when switching from comfort to dynamic as the sound changes accordingly.

 

[Javbomb]

I can't see why the same method wouldn't work for FL, you can tell if the spring is correctly located before fully tightening when switching from comfort to dynamic as the sound changes accordingly.

It definitely wouldn't, the spring will just end up wedged beside the groove on the cylinder and not in it. There is a fair amount of side to side room for it to just end up sitting there.

You kinda gotta see it to get what I mean.

 

[monopole]

Yeah, seen. Is it a little more awkward but none the less, a reasonably simple job.

 

[T-800]

Some pictures of the spring in situ

One thing I will say make sure you are confident you can get the spring back into both grooves on reassembly, you have to make sure the curled round end has seated over the flap pivot point, then you have to hold the motor with one hand and the top part of the spring with your other finger, then you can ‘feel it’ into the servo pivot slot, once in you need to keep pressure on the servo motor so you can screw I. The 3 bolts finger tight.

The u shaped spring is very tight and you’ll need something substantial to open it ‘out’ even just a little.

 

[monopole]

did you just whip yours off just for the exercise

 

[monopole]

From your pic Sean, makes me wonder if the noise comes from the spring tapping against that flange???

 

[monopole]

Gives me an idea from my PFL valve modification I did on the milltek which limited the "closed" position so the LH valve was never fully closed. . .


STOCK VALVE AND ACTUATOR:

MILLTEK VALVE:

as you can see from the image, the milltek valve has a fixed stop and a rotation flange (seen at the red dots);

I moved the fixed stop min position which kept the valve ever so slightly open so added a nice deep note when in comfort;

All I did was bond metal peg to the side of the fixed stop and bingo.

I wonder if this will work on the FL by bonding a slim metal peg (as I did before) along the min (valve closed) flange..... Which will limit the valve to stay slightly open;

 

[T-800]

From your pic Sean, makes me wonder if the noise comes from the spring tapping against that flange???

View attachment 160221

That’s a fair point Steve

Although the sideways tension is very strong, it’s impossible to push the spring back to open the valve.....

I suppose the way to rule that out is to push against it while having an assistant blip the throttle.......

 

[T-800]

I actual fact Steve another way to induce what you are suggesting above is to get a small piece of plastic or rubber pipe, cut it into a short length and the slit it down one side so it could be slipped around the spring at that point.

The extra thickness of the pipe wall would stop the flap fully closing.

 

[monopole]

That’s a fair point Steve

Although the sideways tension is very strong, it’s impossible to push the spring back to open the valve.....

I suppose the way to rule that out is to push against it while having an assistant blip the throttle.......

so yours was tight? that chap in the video seemed to be able to wiggle his? [EDIT] then again it was a BMW

I actual fact Steve another way to induce what you are suggesting above is to get a small piece of plastic or rubber pipe, cut it into a short length and the slit it down one side so it could be slipped around the spring at that point.

The extra thickness of the pipe wall would stop the flap fully closing.

putting it on the spring will also limit (reduce) the open position, so I think just on the closed part of the flange would be better.

 

[monopole]

sounds like a weekend job for ya Sean, feedback welcome

 

[Toshers]

Great idea on how to possibly keep the valve slightly open! I might give this a try myself.

 

[T-800]

so yours was tight? that chap in the video seemed to be able to wiggle his? [EDIT] then again it was a BMW




putting it on the spring will also limit (reduce) the open position, so I think just on the closed part of the flange would be better.

To be fair mine had no play in it.
Either in the up/down or left to right.

But Twas an interesting half hour no less

 

[T-800]

sounds like a weekend job for ya Sean, feedback welcome

Weekend job (if they turn up) will be Eibach Pros fitted.

 

[monopole]

Now there is feedback I do want to hear, step by step

 

[Beebee-one]

Weekend job (if they turn up) will be Eibach Pros fitted.

Yep, stop all that messing about with exhausts and get the Eibach's fitted. I need to know if they are any good!
A step by step guide would be good too............

 

[Javbomb]

To be fair mine had no play in it.
Either in the up/down or left to right.

But Twas an interesting half hour no less

So, did it fix your rattle?

 

[T-800]

So, did it fix your rattle?

To be fair the only time I notice a rattle is when in Comfort and the throttle is blipped.......

Will see tomorrow if it’s still there.

Trouble is though the cars always in Dynamic or Individual Dynamic so it’s never something that bothered me.

However I can see the wisdom of your fix........the copper washer slide in solution is also another way as this also increases spring tension on the pivot point.

 

[T-800]

Yep, stop all that messing about with exhausts and get the Eibach's fitted. I need to know if they are any good!
A step by step guide would be good too............

Just one problem........

They haven’t arrived yet

I’m praying they turn up tomorrow.

 

[monopole]

By all accounts, looking at the valve spring with the engine/electrics off, then starting and and selecting between comfort / dynamic - the valves are set fully open when the engine is off (we checked on Brians car yesterday)

also, the spring moves to contact the flange in both conditions, so it looks like the modification I mentioned earlier should actually be feasible for the valve closed condition

 

[monopole]

Double confirmed this morning, FL valves default to 'open' as soon as the car is switched off.

And.. Valve spring movement (comfort)

 

[T-800]

Double confirmed this morning, FL valves default to 'open' as soon as the car is switched off.

And.. Valve spring movement (comfort)

Steve.....

Allow the car systems to shut down (10/15m) on mine it sounds like the exhaust flap is then closed as i can heard the distinct 'tink' of it moving.

I only know because one day i was doing some coding work and then when i'd finished was in the garage for another 20 mins or so, i then heard the 'tink' of the valve closing and the car had been locked a good 10/15mins