Did a search on the forum and searching for some details guys and girls. Planning on swapping the corroded rear disks and also pads when I'm at it the weekend. I have not done this with a car with an e-brake. Is there any resetting or things that I would need to look out for. Thanks in advance for replies. As don't want to do it incase it needs recalibrate or something stupid.
Replacing rear brakes and electronic handbrake
- Thread starter SJC
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Done mine myself - not sure what model you have but on the S3 you need a stubby M14 triple square in order to remove the rear calliper carrier bolts. Fronts are straight forward more room to get in on them and from memory they're hex bolts.
You do need to do something with VCDS first I believe, in order to stop the electronic brake closing the calipers up. According to the workshop manual you should anyway. You may be able to get away with disconnecting the battery or something instead, or leaving the handbrake off and hoping the car doesn't decide to put it on for whatever reason... I have heard stories of very expensive repairs when people have got this wrong on others cars before!
I also read about this but when it came to it I just left the handbrake off, no VCDS or a piston wind back tool needed but car had done 15k and had virtually no wear on the discs so the calliper just slid off.
Also note that the calliper carrier bolts are a fit once only so you need new ones - torque settings for the rear is 200Nm so you need a fairly high rated torque wrench.
My indie said to use vcds to be safe.
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I can vouch for vag electronic hand brakes , our workshop mechanic totally ruined the callipers prizing them open with a big screwdriver , plant manager then bought snap on module. Horse , door , bolted 
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Thanks for replies folks. Yeh I have been told the calliper needs to be wound back to save them closing. I have done over 55k in a few years and it's the corrosion on the disk that's knackered the disks. Have pads and disks to put on. Not going to do it myself now. As don't want the extra expense buying the kit and wrecking the car.
Probably a good idea - I did the fronts myself without much issue, but I think I'd get the rears done by someone else. Surprised that they need doing already though - they normally last for ages.
fave
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Audi A3 8v / VW Golf MK7 Rear EPB - rear pads change VCDS
Connect a battery charger as per repair manual.
Cycle the Parking Brake ON, then OFF first.
[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Select Start lining change mode
[Go!] to activate the Basic Setting.
The brake calipers will then open, allowing the pads to be changed.
You should hear the rear caliper motors operating.
Wait 30 seconds after it says Not Running or the noises have stopped before clicking [Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Turn ignition off and leave battery charger connected.
The caliper pistons do not move back into the caliper, they must be pushed in using a hand tool. Fault code 721152 - Brake pad replacement mode active will be stored, this is normal.
Close Rear Parking Brake
Prerequisites:
Connect a battery charger as per repair manual.
[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Select End lining change mode
[Go!] to activate the Basic Setting.
The brake calipers will then close.
Wait 30 seconds after it says Not Running or the noises have stopped before clicking [Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Turn ignition off
The LED in the parking brake switch and the warning lamp in the instrument cluster will probably continue to blink rapidly in addition to Fault code 721152 - Brake pad replacement mode active. This should stop after cycling the Parking Brake ON, then OFF again using the switch in the vehicle while holding the brake pedal AFTER all rear brake components are reassembled.
Does it need the kind of rewind tool that twists whilst it pushes, or do they just push straight back and use the electrical system to replace the ratchet?
Did mine today after reading this thread, didn't need vag com /vcds I literally turned the car off without the hand brake engaged, disconnected the battery, removed the calipers using an m14 multispline and pushed the piston in with a big set of Stilton grips, was simple and took no more than an hour to do disks and pads on both sides, hasn't brought up any faults and my brakes are much better (and shinier)
Only time you'll need vcd or obd11 is if you have electronic parking brake. Otherwise, change like any other car.
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So people are saying it's a must to use vcds
Whilst others have been successful without it.
Me. Not that I've had to or need to yet, I'd just get on with it and treat it like any other car.
Although I do know of a Mercedes tech who didn't wind them back via star and the piston came out with such force he lost part of his hand.
Whilst others have been successful without it.
Me. Not that I've had to or need to yet, I'd just get on with it and treat it like any other car.
Although I do know of a Mercedes tech who didn't wind them back via star and the piston came out with such force he lost part of his hand.
For electronic parking brake ONLY, vcd or obd11 is a necessity because the car needs to know and calibrate the thickness of the rear pads for the ecs to work properly.
If you change electronic parking rears without, you will most likely go through the pads prematurely as well as eating your rotors. And then going around a corner too quickly, the car will oversteer or understeer way too much, and a very likely "oh ****" moment will happen.
Do it correctly the first time to avoid headache and money later.
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If you change electronic parking rears without, you will most likely go through the pads prematurely as well as eating your rotors. And then going around a corner too quickly, the car will oversteer or understeer way too much, and a very likely "oh ****" moment will happen.
Do it correctly the first time to avoid headache and money later.
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Theses are slightly oval so deform when tightening hence second use they won’t be as secure.
I’m sure people do it but for the cost and piece of mind not worth the risk in my opinion.
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I’m sure people do it but for the cost and piece of mind not worth the risk in my opinion.
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I’ll get back to you in the morning Mike should have the info at work
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I’ll get back to you in the morning Mike should have the info at work
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Cheers mate drop me a text or call me on 07730770230 thanks again mate.
Front M14 bolts are N91084901
Rear M12 bolts are N91168901
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There is a vid on YouTube, where the guy releases the electric parking brake and then removes the actuator from the assembly then he removes the pads and uses a hex to wind the calliper back in and fits new pads then replaces the unit. He then puts the handbrake on and off a few times to recalibrate the unit, job done.
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Cheers pal I rang them this morning and ordered them as well as the grub screws
Good call mate
That’s your bank holiday sorted
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That will be fine pal, I tried without one and wouldn't work. So I just put a charger on and was fine.
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Good call mate - it’s half hour a side or an hour if doing discs at the same time so you’d be very unlucky if your battery was toast during that time. Last 3 rear pad/disc changes I’ve done I’ve put it into friction pad change mode then disconnected and keyed out done the job then hooked up the laptop again to put it out of lining change mode with no issues.
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To be honest I’d use them again. I got new ones when I replaced all my brakes but then had a couple of problems so the were on and off so ended up using them again.
Ignore me I got mixed up with carrier bolts and slider bolts. I had new M14 bolts in preparation for the change so used them. Quite a job removing and tightening with the car just raised on axle stands, hardly any room for leverage, had to fashion a medium breaker bar using part of an axle stand and a socket wrench!
Hi i have a 66 plate A3 saloon. Planning on changing out rear discs and pads as they are badly scored.
I have bought a Carista dongle, to wind the electric handbrake back. But on the subject of the calliper bolts can someone please confirm whether i need a 7mm allen key or a spline bit for me car. I am getting a bit confused
I have bought a Carista dongle, to wind the electric handbrake back. But on the subject of the calliper bolts can someone please confirm whether i need a 7mm allen key or a spline bit for me car. I am getting a bit confused
