The "Rimz" Thread ** Look here before requesting pics of specific wheels**

Which the best ET (front n rear) for oz ultraleggera 18 with 225/40. I have 16mm spacers in back but my idea its take off when buy :)

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It depends on the rim width and how aggressive look you need. For flush non-aggresive look, I would look for ET 42-45 with 8x18 rims. With 8.5x18 I'd try ET 48-50.
 
Which the best ET (front n rear) for oz ultraleggera 18 with 225/40. I have 16mm spacers in back but my idea its take off when buy :)

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ET43 is the max with 225 tires, I run 235 on my rear with a little bit of scrub, lowered 40mm if you can deal with it? You could go with a slight stretch if you want to go with a lower off set, say a 215 tire.
 
Out with the old and in with the new! Completely transformed the over all look of the whole car with these 18” RS6 Reps.




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How are the reps? Heavier than the originals they replaced? And if you don’t mind asking, how much were they and where did you get them from please?
 
8v on my 8p. 18" standard 8v alloys with 10mm spacers on the front (tot 20mm) and 12 mm spacers on the back (tot 24mm). The car is on standard suspension. Hope u can see the pics.
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Does anyone have a picture of a 8P with:
- 8x18 ET42 rim or...
- 8x18 ET50 rim with 8 mm spacer?

I have genuine RS3 8x18 ET50 rotors with 225/40-18 tyres on my car. I used 5 mm unbranded (but looking pretty good quality ones) spacers all round for flusher look, but they caused slight vibration on a speed of around 70 km/t because there wasn't a hub centric lip on the spacer. I'm considering to purchase the H&R DR spacers, but the narrowest ones with the hub centric lip are 8 mm. If I installed them, the effective ET would be 42. I want the flush look but I also want to avoid the wheels poking out of the fenders. I'd appreciate if anyone could share a picture of a front fender with the wheel setup in question.

P.S. My car is lowered by approx. 30 mm. The pictures with the wheels I use and 5 mm spacers were posted previously, but here's one more

8x18 ET50 rotors with 5 mm spacers. Do you thing extra 3 mm of track width wouldn't ruin the look?

S line RS upgrade fs number
 
Does anyone have a picture of a 8P with:
- 8x18 ET42 rim or...
- 8x18 ET50 rim with 8 mm spacer?

I have genuine RS3 8x18 ET50 rotors with 225/40-18 tyres on my car. I used 5 mm unbranded (but looking pretty good quality ones) spacers all round for flusher look, but they caused slight vibration on a speed of around 70 km/t because there wasn't a hub centric lip on the spacer. I'm considering to purchase the H&R DR spacers, but the narrowest ones with the hub centric lip are 8 mm. If I installed them, the effective ET would be 42. I want the flush look but I also want to avoid the wheels poking out of the fenders. I'd appreciate if anyone could share a picture of a front fender with the wheel setup in question.

P.S. My car is lowered by approx. 30 mm. The pictures with the wheels I use and 5 mm spacers were posted previously, but here's one more

8x18 ET50 rotors with 5 mm spacers. Do you thing extra 3 mm of track width wouldn't ruin the look?

View attachment 148245
Mine on DTM Ronals 8x18 ET42. Rears are sitting on 235 tires. Slight scrub with weight in the back when hitting big dips. Lowered 5omm fron and 40mm rear.
IMG 0638 Edited
 
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Mine on DTM Ronals 8x18 ET42. Rears are sitting on 235 tires. Slight scrub with weight in the back when hitting big dips. Lowered 5omm fron and 40mm rear.
Thanks for the picture. The sideview is good. Don't the fronts stick out of the fenders when you look alongside the car?
 
it depends on how low you want to go now and in the future. a 5mm h&R is hubcentric and if you eventually change to a 235, I think thats the sweet spot. 235 with ET45
I'm not going lower than I'm now. I think 5 mm spacers or ET45 for 8x18 rims is a sweet spot, but I'm curious how a spacer that doesn't have a hub centric lip can center the rim on a hub without wobbling. The hub on a front axle is too short and even with as narrow spacer as the 5 mm one, a wheel is held by the bolts only, not being supported by the hub. I believe this is one of the reasons for vibration.

ST Suspension made new line of hubcentric spacers with plastic rings (DZX) that hold the spacer tight on a hub. Looks promising.
 
you are always entitled to purchase what you desire but I will say the H&R are really great
I'm not entitled yet. I have heard a lot of good words about the H&R and they are #1 on my list, but here's a few BUTs:
- the range of H&R spacers with a hub centric lip starts with 8 mm ones (and not even all 8 mm spacers have this lip), but...
- not all 8 mm spacers WITH the lip fit the rear axle. For instance, they state that the spacers #1655572 are only for the front axle. Why? I suppose the rear hub is higher than the 14 mm limit. I have to measure it but don't have time to take a rear wheel off right now. There's is another spacer #162555716 that might fit the rear axle, but I need to contact the H&R support for confirmation first.
- I'm still unsure that I want the 8 mm spacers on the front axle. I was happy with the look of the 5 mm ones (as on a picture above), but I suspect it were the front spacers that caused vibration, because unlike the rear axle where the spacers fit the hub very tight and there was enough hub hight back to support the wheel, on the front axle there was 1) a slight play, the spacer didn't fit tight and 2) the hub wasn't high enough to support the wheel. I bet it was the reason to the vibration at 70+- km/t speed. In order to avoid it, I need a spacer that fits the front hub very tight, without wobbling, but can the H&R do the trick if the front hub diameter is a little less than the rear one? That's why I mentioned the ST DZX spacers with a plastic ring inside that made specifically to tighten the spacer on the hub, avoiding wobbling. But still, the 5 mm ST DZX spacers don't have a hub centric lip, so the wheel would be centred and supported by the bolts only, without the hub support. Not good.

I always have an option to buy rims with a proper ET and use them without any spacer, or leave everything as is, which is good too, not perfect though.
 
Ola, so got some TSW 5x112 ET45 18x8 on a 22 5/40/R18 lowered 30mm all around on B16 PSS10s just wondering if i can keep the same height and go 19x8.5 ET47 5x112 Oz Racing Leggerra HLT on some 235/35/R19 Michelin PS4S any feedback would be great


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https://www.performancealloys.com/wheel-details.aspx?id=3949
Definitely doable, I`m running 235/40/18 with an offset 8.0 et43, take out the rear bumper screws to stop the outta wall rub, lowered 50mm front 40mm rear.
 
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Hi, my wheels are in need of a refurb (standard s3 Sportback 18” diamond cut alloys) just wondering if anyone has had them painted entirely bronze? Want to see some done before I commit to it
TIA
 
Good idea! You reckon I need to get them re cut first cause they’ve gone scabby? Or just plastidip straight over the top?
 
Good idea! You reckon I need to get them re cut first cause they’ve gone scabby? Or just plastidip straight over the top?
Just go straight over the top, but obviously a straighter finish will get better result.
Its not overly expensive, so you can change up the colour quite often if you wish.
 
Loving a lot of the alloys this thread.
I'm looking to refurb my standard alloys in the next few weeks, but before I do I am hoping someone can point me in the direction of a black version of the centre cap. The part number for Standard silver part is 8E0601165N and they are expensive online, but ideally I want one that is all black but with the silver Audi logo. Pic attached to clarify which centre cap I am referring to.
If anyone can help it would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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View attachment 152960 Can you take them apart? Then paint the centre piece.
I removed them this morning and had a look, and you are right, they do come apart in sections so they can be done how I want them.
You probably saved me a ton of cash as I was considering new alloys, reluctantly.
 
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18" A3 S-line 5-Arms over -30mm Eibach Pro Kit springs. Wouldn't mind a tiny bit lower but I wanted an OEM style look and good ride and that's what I've got I guess :)

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I went pro first and was so impressed I quickly went lower with the sportlines and they are perfect, car sits just right and not too low and the ride is impeccable without looking chavy and still retains an amount of oem look to the non purist.
 
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Looks good @Michael O'Connor
I have an 8v Sline, I would like to have it lowered slightly and would opt for the same springs as yourself, very tasteful

Thanks mate! You can't really see it in the picture but the back wheels sit pretty far into the arch. I don't want them poking or even 'flush' but would like them to sit similarly to how the front wheel sits out (just slightly in), so might get spacers on the back (as long as the insurers aren't gonna savage my premium for it)
 
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I went pro first and was so impressed I quickly went lower with the sportlines and they are perfect, car sits just right and not too low and the ride is impeccable without looking chavy and still retains an amount of oem look to the non purist.

Let's see some pictures! I fancied the sportline kit but it's not really feasible on SE dampers, it can be done with S-line, sport or S3 dampers though, so maybe on the next motor when I get an S3 or S-line A3 :)
 
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Let's see some pictures! I fancied the sportline kit but it's not really feasible on SE dampers, it can be done with S-line, sport or S3 dampers though, so maybe on the next motor when I get an S3 or S-line A3 :)
If you go up 25 or posts from here you will see the pictures I posted. :icon thumright:
 
Let's see some pictures! I fancied the sportline kit but it's not really feasible on SE dampers, it can be done with S-line, sport or S3 dampers though, so maybe on the next motor when I get an S3 or S-line A3 :)
You can fit with them with some bilstein dampers, I went the whole hog with the B12 kit as I didn't want any surprises, changed the top mounts for s3 ones too.
yours will have 50mm struts as apposed to 55mm like mine on the s-line,
I know what your saying about the sportline as they do work better with the shorter B8 dampers,
 
Ah yeah, someone did mention getting some billys but it wasn't really 'on the cards' at the moment, so I went with the sportline kit instead.

Sounds odd to say but it is nice to retain a little bit of an arch gap as it seems pretty 'even' all the way round, e.g. at the top of the arch and round the sides too. I'd be afraid of getting the sportlines of there being too small of a gap for my liking...
 
18" A3 S-line 5-Arms over -30mm Eibach Pro Kit springs. Wouldn't mind a tiny bit lower but I wanted an OEM style look and good ride and that's what I've got I guess :)

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How much time passed since you fitted the Eibach Pro Kit? Did the springs sag more since? Would you mind measuring the distance from the wheel center to the fender?
 
Finally, I decided on spacers. I've got H&R 8 mm spacers to the front axle and 8 mm ST DZ to the rear. The H&Rs are with the extended hub lip, so the OE rims sit firm on the hub, no vibration. The ST DZ are with the plastic center ring to fit the spacers tight on the hub and with the hub extension ring for better wheel support.

Current setup is 8x18 ET50 with 8 mm spacers on all corners which makes it ET42.
ET50 with 8 mm spacers 1
ET50 with 8 mm spacers 2
ET50 with 8 mm spacers 3
 
How much time passed since you fitted the Eibach Pro Kit? Did the springs sag more since? Would you mind measuring the distance from the wheel center to the fender?

About a month I'd say. I wouldn't say they settled in any more since I fitted them really, it's hard to tell as I had my old wheels fitted when I got the springs fitted, and then the 18s filled the arches up a lot once they were fitted too. I'll get a measurement tomorrow when it's light. If it's any help, it's about a 'shoe gap'-I believe that's the universal measurement for how big arch gap is haha
 
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About a month I'd say. I wouldn't say they settled in any more since I fitted them really, it's hard to tell as I had my old wheels fitted when I got the springs fitted, and then the 18s filled the arches up a lot once they were fitted too. I'll get a measurement tomorrow when it's light. If it's any help, it's about a 'shoe gap'-I believe that's the universal measurement for how big arch gap is haha
Thanks in advance, I would appreciate it. I explained why I needed this measurement in this post in another thread.
 
Thanks in advance, I would appreciate it. I explained why I needed this measurement in this post in another thread.

All good. Just measured now and it looks to be approx. 35mm gap at the front, and 37mm gap at the back :) Even enough for me haha