Couple of things happened during the past week. I have no idea from where to start... It never stops...
Well, last Friday the car was ready to go and as i mentioned I already took it back home. Since then the car left the Garage only once for 30 minutes test run around the town in Saturday, she been static in the Garage... Few good and bad things happend since then.
Last two days i was busy fixing my Passenger Seat.. because backrest stuck push forward. Something happened last time i push it from the button to fit my bumper in. I suspect the button once again, because i already had journey problem with my Pass/Seat Rise-Up button before. Anyways, with many divination together with my Dad from where the problem possibly comes, we end up breaking the seat a part. All that was unnecessary, of course. The problem came from the main bundle of cables which was tightly fitted from the factory behind the seat on the fold of the seat ... Of which bundle, main victims were plus and minus. We fix that, all worked back again.
Today was the big day and not exactly, i received call.. the Bumper was readyy :hubbahubba:the Wheel as well. Mounting everything back in its place was true pleasure!
Putting the seat back in its place was pain in the ***, mate of mine became Crazy with me and my seat, helping me. :friends:
After all was fitted, we end up turning the key, and new problem happily arrived... The car choked from the richness (No Tune, still...) after couple of unsuccessful attempts, we decide to unplug the Injectors to dry the Spark Plugs.. that was unsuccessful too. So we push out the Coils to check the Spark Plugs and eventually to dry and clean them from the fuel. Brand new plugs were 'BLACK' and 'WET' enough.. Anyways, the car finally Fired Up without hesitation as she always do. I push her out from the Garage in the courtyard and the next one arrived... I turn off the key and tried to Start her again and my Starter died... And to cover everything, after we end up firing her by gear, my Oil Level Sensor start making anomalies. OLS was the first thing i changed when i bought the car in December 2015...Seems like Euro Car Parts "parts" does not last long. I was just shocked!:wtf::scared2: I take her around the Town for around two hours, whilst i was praying no to die on me, somewhere... I returned back home and my alternator sign and abs sensor lighted up :sob: Also my right front tire has couple of degrees negative camber too, looks like something is not okay, i hope aligment would fix that. :sorry::sos:

I don't know what to do and think anymore.. I'm just 22, and already a lot of money, effort, nervous and time has been invested in this piece of metal..
I'm ashamed of myself, engaging my friends picking me up from my home the whole time...And helping me, sorting this thing...

"Big" day tomorrow, i'm gonna visit my mechanic again. If, she starts up..

Enough mumbling, here's the secret surprise. Enjoy!
BeFunky-Collage8ZWBIaBin7Ctcziycyv6A1518659064_sredna.jpg

BeFunky-Collage91cBOjeRYXF9eXbFEpsx6v1518659870_sredna.jpg

BeFunky-Collage10QKkCPN4mJnueLUQeoXuL1518659152_sredna.jpg
 
Nice ventilation on the bumper!!!

Sounds to me like flat battery. All sorts of weird things start to be triggered when the battery goes flat.
 
Nice ventilation on the bumper!!!

Sounds to me like flat battery. All sorts of weird things start to be triggered when the battery goes flat.
Those gills are not something new in the game, the actual surprise is the 'DTM' style "snowplough" under the Cupra R Splitter.
The following problem with my Volts, that i had It turned to be bad and dying alternator and starter also.. Probably brushes mainly on both. I left out the car in Tuesday to be refurbished.

Now i'm Waiting for a call to take the machine back.
1. Go for aligment, fixing up the tires.. And next level have to be catched.
2. Go to the tuner 2.5 to Discuss what i want from the car
3. Bringing her in her full potential!

4.. There's no Four. That's the first number I want to see on the graph or at least close to it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: S3 Hilife, hydro s3, Rainbird and 1 other person
Good luck!

Let’s hope for no more mishaps ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
The boost gauge is reading little below -0.5 around -0.6 I think...
Also i'd like to mention that my Recirculating Valve currently start to loose pressure at higher load around 0.7bar of boost It makes wierd flutter noises
I checked every single possible vacum that can cause that and there's nothing wrong. I checked the Recirculating Valve also. It's Hyperboost one, the Gauge is Stack one. Any ideas?
 
I have no experience of the make you have but I have read that a faulty recirculation valve can make a flutter sound if there on way out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stuart B
I have no experience of the make you have but I have read that a faulty recirculation valve can make a flutter sound if there on way out.
http://www.sfsperformance.co.uk/valves.asp
That's the one I got. Some of the previous owners fit it to the car (seems like comes from USA market), never had issue since I own the car. I've always liked that how it (SPITS OUT) between high rev changing gears.. Anyways, i have booked her for tune last week, tomorrow morning I'm going to leave her to the tuner, i'll tell him to check everything suspicious.

AND HERES WHAT THEY SAY


HyperBoost Recirc Valve

Replaces the factory-fit Bosch diverter valve to provide a faster response and more reliable operation. Reduces lag and sharpens throttle-response - meaning faster acceleration and improved driveability. Same width as your factory Bosch valve and only 20% taller. Fits under engine covers for VWs and even in the Porsche Twin Turbo.

  • The Hyperboost valve reduces turbo lag as it recovers faster when you 'hit the throttle' reduced lag = faster acceleration.
  • Throttle modulation is smoother and feels more accurate under your foot.
  • These valves also perform accurately and reliably time and time again, even in the most extreme conditions.
Inadequate/defective standard valves have extended lag, loss of boost, sluggish throttle response. A HyperBoost valve can clear up the previously mentioned problems and offers reliable action, time and time again. If your car has been chipped, a HyperBoost valve will optimise the performance benefits.

Unique features with the HyperBoost valve:

  • Teflon™ impregnated piston for the most accurate and consistent action available while promoting long life.
  • Utilizes larger VitonTM brand o-rings for increased piston seal to insure leak-proof operation.
  • Internal parts are lubricated with Mobil 1TM synthetic grease, the best you can buy.
  • Connection nozzles are machined to OEM/BoschTM dimensions.
  • O-ring sealed cap for positive locking and a leak-proof seal.
 
Last edited:
Well the "problem with my Voltage wasn't Bad Alternator or Starter neither" It turned to be bad Earth connections with corrosion. That safe me couple of hundred, for fuel :blahblah1:

"Bad DV" NO,NO,NO MY INATTENTION AGAIN... The 90 degree Silicone connection from the MAF to the Intake Tube, was loosen.. Somehow 'maybe tu mach powa' :fox:

I just left the car in the hands of the Tuner for base map. But first, he needs to unlock the ECU because some GURU from the UK locked it and put some aggressive map on my old K04, that explains many things.. and then next thing need to be done before tuning. Also he (found) realised why there are few oil drops on the turbine oil return line.
Oil Return Line gotta be rerouted, because right now has some kind of "up hill" around Transfer Case and that causes the turbine to burn oil at some point on idle as and in motion... and build some type of pressure in the CHRA. But, it Does not eat oil, i'd like to say nothing at all. But if we push the car at higher pressure like is it now, it will blow up the turbine.

Stay tuned for more, the most exciting is on its way.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: S3 Hilife and IPG
you're still able to dump all that extra air out with that little DV???

is it the stock sized ports?
 
you're still able to dump all that extra air out with that little DV???

is it the stock sized ports?
Stock size ports, but the main shape of it is 20% taller (bigger) than stock one.. my K04 was pushing 1.47bar peak and 1.3bar hold.. That DV ( SPITS OUT like crazy on that pressure, between gear changes at redline)
If does not hold or can't hold the pressure I want, i'll go the Blow off route with TiAL Q 50MM or TiAL QR 50mm which is DV still. Still don't know.
 
Last edited:
Hi to everyone, i haven't been here in awhile a lot of things happened with the car in the past few months... I’ll post Update soon.
I have question about my Recirculation Valve, but at first i want to explain. So, let me explain the situation.
I bought TiAL QR 50mm and After short conversation with my Mechanic we mount it on to the Charge Pipe
Now the TiAL is recirculating back into the Intake not like Stock location ones mounted on the intake and recirculating back into the Charge Pipe. I took the car yesterday and after first test drive and first gear change i knew that the spring is too stiff because the turbo was fluttering and i didn’t hear the iconic pshhh sound at 0.7bar even on 1.1bar tho... So, to me that Valve does not open at all or maybe we mounted the wrong way, Recirculating hot air into the Intake. That’s how I explain it to my self.
Just now i open the Valve and the questioned spring is Coloured ‘Black’ factory fitted described as 11psi one. I wanted to give a try and change it with Softer one. I found one in my garage , maybe 2 times softer, a bit taller and almost same diameter. It fits perfect. After short test just now , seems a bit better this time I can hear a bit of dumping air inti the Intake and no more than that and still that flutter noise is there but seems like is not that much as before. Otherwise the valve still sits closed on idle and does not leak any air after i change to softer one. The question is which way is the right way for mounting the Recirculating Valve. I think we should mount it back on stock location or before the throtthle body and dumping back into the intake. I need knowlege and help from the Gurus. Cheers!
 

Attachments

  • 54BD7E16-4719-4822-8F8E-0B68514EB8FC.jpeg
    54BD7E16-4719-4822-8F8E-0B68514EB8FC.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 258
vac pipe feeding it sufficient size?
Sorry for late reply, 4mm -in / 8mm -out
We were thinking of upgrading it to bigger -inside diameter but, what about the little stock nipple on the intake manifold... Also, my boost gauge is connected to that vacuum line.
Interesting and wierd... my Stack Boost Gauge reads -0.6 max on idle and the Greddy Profec B Spec II reads around -.70
Sometimes they ‘Go’ together , sometimes they don’t , any ideas?
 
Last edited:
Hi there.
It’s been over an year since I posted or write anything but finally had the time to sort out the S3 to be tuned.....

Today I recieved a call from the guy who is tuning the Car at the moment and have been told that the car struggles to hold high fuel pressure on high load over 1.1bar
Currently running perfetcly fine and gets 315 horses on that pressure
My tuner suspecs that something wrong is going on in the fuel tank
If I have to be exact, more likely something is wrong with the Fuel Pump or with Fuel hoses in the basket itself. Everything that could be suspicious has been already checked and pressure tested.

Car is running
DW65v AWD - Version
730cc Bosch Injectors - 0280158235
Stock 3 bar fpr
Stock Fuel filter
Td05HR 16G6 10.5T
if thats needed information

I read few threads in the Inet already but since i runned the car with fuel adaptation only for over an year and had no starvation issues at all, did I ****** up the Brand new pump or ????
 
if your "tuner" is doing his job fully, he can be checking the fuel pressure whilst on the dyno, logging boost and logging lambda adjust, so will know if pumps not keeping up with demand.

A lot of folks mis-assemble the DW65 pumps on the bottom larger o ring...
 
if your "tuner" is doing his job fully, he can be checking the fuel pressure whilst on the dyno, logging boost and logging lambda adjust, so will know if pumps not keeping up with demand.

A lot of folks mis-assemble the DW65 pumps on the bottom larger o ring...

Hi there, Badger
Well, seems like the bottom o ring that DW supplied was not the right one, wow. Fact.
That’s fixed and all the clamps of the hoses has been changed by now. They’re about to change and the fuel filter as well, because the car keeps high load but at some point can’t hold the high load pressure in the intake mani and drops the pressure and if it’s running 1.5bar it can’t go to 4.5bar mani pressure. Sorry if I mislead something but can’t remember the exact words he said. He Knows what he’s doing and he’s trying to find the issue fast as possible because he was super sceptical about the car and now he is super happy and positive which means everything goes the right way he wants and something little stops us from the big results.
Car is running great for now and we hope for the best and to be fine very soon.
I just got around them since they’re near by my way after work , I did one run on 1.1 and it’s something totally new and different to me. Right now feels like a freakin rocket I can’t imagine if it’s on full chat with the boost even higher.
 
Well, everything that can possibly cause fuel pressure droping after 1.0bar boost has been checked and the last thing that we didn’t expect was the Fuel Pump....
Unfortunately the DW65v is faulty for some reason, no idea WHY.... Today we pressure test it and it wont go over 4.15bar pressure it does loose pressure from the bottom side outlet. New DW65v is on It’s way already.
We hope for the best in Monday, fingers crossed. New “old” pump will be returned hopefuly they send me working one or return my money.
 
I recieved a call just before I finished work and was super hyped Since earlier that day the Tuner took the car for a Spin around my Work place and she sounded super healthy.
The new fuel pump has been fitted today and the car was back at the dyno for final touches and results
Well, the game is not over... After Run 4 the car had dropped the boost to 0.95bar and it stucked there...the System was tested for boost leaks and huge leak has been found around the Turbo but neither I or the Tuner has exact idea where it comes from exactly. He suspects the Charge Pipe aka ‘J’ pipe or the gasket inbetween it and the turbo...
Since the car is been build by a Company that’s is not in good feelings with the Company that Tunes the car of which the owner is the Tuner. He doesn’t want to touch the car around that area and Wants me to return back the car to the other Company so they can fix their mistakes... It’s been really hard and long journey and I really want the car to be healthy. Well what I did I took day off of work for tomorrow and I’ll be picking up the car tomorrow morning and trying to figure out how to and what to do Since I couldn’t convince the Tuner to fix the issue... So I have to and I need to go directly to the Company that has been builded the car and convince them to took me at the moment and convince them to fix the issue asap since I have no more time to deal with all the issues i’ve been through and money throwing here and there...
By the way, the car is currently on 1.45bar map and it’s at 375horses which is way beyond what I’d expected. I was so dissapointed so I didn’t want to took a photo of the Dyno Graph or what so ever...
 
Last edited:
Photo has been taken Last Friday when Brand New Fuel Pump Pressure issue has been found :|
 

Attachments

  • 5474DE55-EB53-46A2-BB4E-525AFF0033F3.jpeg
    5474DE55-EB53-46A2-BB4E-525AFF0033F3.jpeg
    233.5 KB · Views: 219
375hp and more to come excellent job mate. Don't see why ur engine builder wouldn't fix there mistake but I know how you feel dealing with some mechanics. I look forward to seeing ur final results. What turbo you running?
 
375hp and more to come excellent job mate. Don't see why ur engine builder wouldn't fix there mistake but I know how you feel dealing with some mechanics. I look forward to seeing ur final results. What turbo you running?
TD05HR 16g6 10.5T from Evo 8 MR aka 8.5
On these results I was questioned
‘it is 2.0 stroker, right?’
My answer was ‘NO’ and he was AMAZED You can judge it by his face expression and last words were ‘very nice results’
I took the car the otherday and everything that caused the boost leak was the little silicone connection hose between the ‘J’ pipe and the charge pipe that’s what’s left from it. JUNK!
Few clamps we’re found to leak too, so that Dyno Run 3 which the car had the best results so far were with some air ‘boost’ leaks.
As soon as possible the car will be back on the Dyno for final touches and some Dyno GoPro recordings.
As far I tested the car after the founded and fixed issue, pulls and bangs like a crazy rocket Spins all four in high revs on high gears. I was told that I can play with boost controller as far I feel safe but don’t plan to do much with it.
Tuner did great job!
 

Attachments

  • 78800061-400A-41C0-AE3A-E7BD3F908D7A.jpeg
    78800061-400A-41C0-AE3A-E7BD3F908D7A.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 221
  • 242462A0-66F4-443D-90BA-392B745830FF.jpeg
    242462A0-66F4-443D-90BA-392B745830FF.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 227
For those of you who wants to know what’s up with car , weekly or montly updates... Follow me on my Instagram profile “killfame_s3”, there are some news about the car too, what’s upcoming to be done and ect.
 
Game over. Enough from that car. No luck at all!
I was on my way to work, did pull from 2nd gear till I changed to 4th gear and let it off I start to brake because next junction lights were around 200 meters away I start to brake and the brake pedal felt harder and harder as I was trying to deaccelerate from 180km/h ....... at that point I realised the motor is shut and tried to start it over and heard that compression is lost in the same moment I start to use the Handbrake because the junction was coming faster and faster luckly the boulevard was empty excpet one car that was at red light in the near left lane. At that moment I was around 100m away from the junction and start to use the handbrake harder and harder and in the same momentum I locked the handbrake and the car start to go left sideway luckly I didn’t loose control no matter power steering was off and was harder to control..... the speed was reduced enough just before the junction and let it run by it self and succeed turning the wheel after the junction till a bus stop lane on a safe spot. Catch can was smoking but that’s obvious. Other than that nothing else seemed wrong in the engine bay or under the car or behind the car. I did not try to start it over or what so ever. I’m just done with it and I’m happy that all the cars were behind me and the boulevard was empty , no one else is injured and I’m okay. My wife is infront of crisis because of my stupid investments and all the problems I go through with this peace of metal.

My wrost nightmare , ‘What if motor blow up while doing a pull and how I will stop” BECAME REALITY

Drive safe!!! I’m done!
Peace!

https://www.imageupload.net/image/MvPvr
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you've had a bad run of luck, at least no one got hurt
 
So with a very close friend of mine we decide to check what’s up inside the engine tonight. Well, after taking off Coilpacks one by one everything seemed alright till we get to the Spark plug of Cylinder ‘2’ and was super hard to be disassembled. He suspected that the problem is there and after taking it off there’s what we found... Rest of the Spark Plugs we’re looking alright and AFR’s we’re doing their job alright but.... No idea what caused that carnage on Cyl ‘2’ .....
Anyone with good knowlege would be helpful!
I’d like to know if there is any chance by checking the logs of that Run and the Fuel Maps inside the ECU... If Badger is any near interested I can send the ECU to the UK and to checked and inspected.
 

Attachments

  • 18B19EB6-B5C4-4320-891A-01355E27E395.jpeg
    18B19EB6-B5C4-4320-891A-01355E27E395.jpeg
    604.4 KB · Views: 213
  • 30AC18A0-37FF-498F-B7CE-EAE75A4288D0.jpeg
    30AC18A0-37FF-498F-B7CE-EAE75A4288D0.jpeg
    842.1 KB · Views: 224
Holy poo mate,lucky one for you there. Glad no accident cause of it and your uninjured yourself.
At the end of the day that's really all that matters but if it was me I'd want to know why this happened in the 1st place.
 
Holy poo mate,lucky one for you there. Glad no accident cause of it and your uninjured yourself.
At the end of the day that's really all that matters but if it was me I'd want to know why this happened in the 1st place.
I spoke with the Tuner that morning and he was curious what caused cutting the spark plug like so... He wants me to took the head off and contact him after that. Since I’m free at weekends only it’s about to be tough and slow job.
 
Last edited:
Okay.. Good evening everyone.
Thought I'd never do this again, posting anything car related or what so ever on this forum.. I've just seeking this and that from time to time to fulfill my needs.
Lots and lots of researches has be done during last few years it's like a mania, a drug for my brain to keep breathing well (If I'm allowed to say it in that way)

Yes, this peace of metal it's still "alive" after, let's say couple of huge drop downs (life related, car related)
Back then while the car was just laying in the garage I took the opportunity to re-trim few bits in the interior by myself with a bit of help here and there by a good friend of mine.
Later I found that I bought the wrong Alcantara material of which was Geniune Alcantara but without the foam underneath.
Then I bought 'fake' Alcantara with the Foam underneath much easier to be shaped out with edgy surface like the Headliner, kept the Geniune material for the rest of the trims.
IMG-0869.jpg

IMG-0872.jpg

IMG-0981.jpg

IMG-1002.jpg

IMG-1054.jpg

IMG-1019.jpg

IMG-1063.jpg

IMG-1837.jpg

IMG-1188.jpg

BNIY8485.jpg

IMG-2095.jpg

IMG-2076.jpg

IMG-E2079.jpg

MG-5511.jpg


Since the last post about the Engine Carnage of which happened back in 2019, the engine was taken-off, teared down and inspected (full destroy on everything)













Luckily couple of months later I found Bare Engine 75k miles on eBay (Was looking great on pic's) bought it for just 170quid on Auction (I couldn't believe I WON it and jumped to the sky from happiness at the time) which was total bargain for what it was. Previously been serviced with top brands only of which we found later when it arrived.






The new engine was stripped down for inspection and everything we were looking for was looking great.
I bought it mainly for the Block, Head & Pistons. Everything else was ordered brand new as expected.
All the needed engine parts was purchased. (Huge list)
BTW: The old Evo Turbo was blown away (my saddest part) Friend of mine said to me at the time to send it for full rebuild but I didn't listen to his suggestion and dunno why.











Meanwhile In between the whole story that was happening, there's this guy who pops out on 'FB' buy&sell group page with some "improvement" turbo and I immediately catch the hook. (biggest mistake at the time)
I traded my blown Turbo plus cash on top for his "Arashi" improvement.. Of which lately to found that the Actuator flapper hole was cracked a little.









Never mind, I still put it on the car and it worked but.. not how it should.
While my mechanic was dealing with the engine measurements, assembly and stuff like that I went full craziness, start cleaning everything I can touch and painted most of the parts of the engine compartment. Nothing too shiny just to fulfill my standards of looks.













































 
In part of let's say 2 months dealing with everything the engine was done and ready to go into the car.
As soon I brought the car into the Garage that the Engine was build in recently I couldn't believe that it was actually happening and something I was hoping for was actually about to happened for real.

















Couple of weeks later I received early Sunday message followed by a Photo saying "it's ready to go in, are you coming along?" :D
I couldn't take a single breath like a normal person from happiness and jumped out the bed. It took me like 40 mins plus driving to get there and it was already in.(WOW)



They waited for me to start the engine for the first time by my self, but we hit another problem of course. :D
The starter motor was stuck because.. silly me, pressure washing electrical things (preparing for paint) it is not a good idea people :D
We call it a day after that and went back to the car in the next couple of days.
I've bought new Battery and my guy restored the Starter motor we test it and it worked like a charm.
The moment of truth was on the line it had nowhere to go.. it was that time... yeaaaa.. and VOALA it was purring like a cat.
We did finalize every piece in the bay and I took the car couple of days later.







The JOURNEY began, I break in the engine a bit.
Then we've tried to Tune it with the "bigger turbo" on which resulted in a bit of power drop compared to before the Carnage with the smaller frame turbo (boost issues & lazy spool rising within the rpm, arghh..)
Anyway, powerwise was similar HP but at much higher revs. Nm were bit of a down.. but that car was still fast enough, not for racing i'd say.. for personal fun more likely.



Note: Old setup pushed 375 HP / 440 Nm 1.6bar on last Dyno Run before it blew the Compressor outlet coupler and we've found that couple of hoses were not tighten enough (boost leaks) never dyno'ed afterwards.
It blew the engine 2 days after it was Tuned (you know this story already) just before the real Dyno session that it was about to happen with the GoPro's ON ect...

Well, well.... we ended up in decision to leave the car as it is and drive it just like how it is, saving the new engine for new turbo setup one day when I can afford it.
It was 1 year full of fun & journeys whatever you can think of. ( You can follow my Instagram for that part @killfame_s3 )
I drove it everywhere, daily drive it to work every morning and evening. Mountain journeys & race nights with the guys, going different places to visit friends and so on.
Wild launch controls, crazy flat shifts, beating the **** out of it, you name it.
Regular services every 3-4k miles. I've put nearly 20k miles on that engine within 1 year, like I said non stop use. It was singing like it should.
Meanwhile I bought the materials and new Simons Oval Muffler for the back, remove and sold the old "JAP Style" JS-Design Muffler which was piece of art, created by a very popular welder in my Country.























 
Last edited:
Until that day, yes that day.....
Quiet and chill night 01:00AM middle of the night... Mid September 2021 Cruising with 40km/h at the most, quietly heading back home from a friends walk in the central of the city.
Waiting at the red traffic light intersection and "that guy" pulls up next to me in the middle of the night with 3 more dudes in his car (they were all looking at the beast like "what is this peace of ****" sitting in some basic 1.6 A3 8L..) meanwhile me telling to myself not to do anything, just drive normally.. ye.
Green light shows up, going normal, driving normal... and just when I was about to push it (just to show them "what's up") I felt something wrong happening.
The engine start to sputter and start to loose power, me barely touching the throttle at the same time (those guys pulling away ahead) streets empty as hell and I was Lucky enough there were park places on the side of the boulevard and I've had the chance to pull over with the desired speed left.
I knew what happened Immediately and said to my self this is it, it's over... and it was unfortunately. (never crank it again after it died)
It was that time I have to bring the car back to Home and left it in the Garage once again.


Couple of days later I took the Head off to see what's going on.. because my guys at the Garage couldn't take off one of the spark plugs and after I pulled the head off we've found that one Exhaust Valves Head (Supertech this time) it was dropped once again... yes at low speed, believe it or not it happened, yes.
And believe it or not, this time I was really mad and it was all over for me. :|


Not long after something in me cracked (after I sold the current turbo setup and few other bits) just right before I put the car for breaking.
I stopped myself and start looking at some things, here and there and started collecting this and that. Like a kid developing a hero in his video game.
******* mental (excuse my language) I felt so much power at once you can't even imagine. I was super happy Finding and buying everything I would need piece by piece.
Taking my time on everything (I was collecting parts for almost 2 years, believe it or not.)
I've made mistakes once again here and there but they were corrected in the process and some of them still need corrections but don't worry it will be fine!
Let's say during half of this time the car was left at the Garage for new Tubular manifold to be made for the new Turbo I prepared G25-660 .72ar it was traded for G30-770 .72 later on during the build.





























































































Current Setup
06A Block Stock Bore
Je Pistons 8.5:1
H-Beam Rods (kept from last built)
ACL Racing Rod & Main Bearings
ISP Gridle Kit
Pierburg Oil Pump
Hepu Water Pump
Aluminium Coolant Flanges (kept from last built)
Small Ports Head
ARP Head Studs M10
Boubis Cams 268 Hydr
Custom Adjustable Cam Pulley
Ferrea Exhaust Valves
Supertech double spring kit (kept from last built)
Supertech Ti Retainers, Valve Keepers (kept from last built)
INA Hydrualic Lifters
Bar-Tek Manual Tensioner kit
Gates Racing Kevlar Timing Belt
DW65v In-Tank Fuel Pump
Bosch 044 Inline latest revision
DW FF110 Fuel Filter
1000cc Bosch Injectors
Stock 3bar FPR with Stock Fuel Rail
Snow Performance WMI Stage 2.5 with VC-50 Controller
NGK U5003 Coil Packs
NGK BKR8EIX Spark Plugs
PTB-Racing Twin Disc Clutch Kit 850Nm
Stock 02M (had to rebuilt my old gearbox or take out the Stainless Steel Fork 3-4th)
Stock ME7.5 it will be Stage 3 Extreme Custom Tuned by Revlimit (Fotis) Greece
Mafless and all the extra sauce will be coded in
Bosch 4Bar Map Sensor
MAC 4Port Solenoid
Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller
AEM Wideband LSU 4.2
Stack Boost & Oil Pressure Gauges
Colour MFA Display (on the car from 2017)
Fitted OEM Cruise Control recently for the Rolling Anti-Lag.
Stock Intake Manifold, Stock TB (still)
Pulsar G30-770 .72ar V-band (latest revision)
Garrett GVW 45mm Water Cooled with Open Tube
Custom Tubular Manifold (Nortech Style) 42.4x32 304L
3" Exhaust all the way running Simons Turbex Resonator & Simons Turbolight Muffler
IC 600x300x76 Creations Motorsports (still the same one from the beginning) Custom 63mm Boost Piping
4" intake reduced to 89mm onto Simota Air Filter
TiAL 50mm BOV (Copy) Throttle Side Mounted (will be replaced by OEM one or OEM Turbosmart)
Fully refurbished 18z Calipers with 360mm brake discs from RS4 B5
Fully refurbished OEM Rear Calipers with 335mm Rear Discs from VW Phaeton
Mintex Pads all around
Epytec Hardware included
HEL Braided Brake Lines All Around
Wezmoto Braided Clutch Line
Fully Serviced maintenance all fluids and other little bits had been replaced for new.
New custom Hub Centric Spacers all around with new custom bolts
Currently sits on whacked KW V1 (holds still) would be replaced at some point
Powerflex bushes here and there (getting the rest of the puzzle soon!)
Courently collecting exterior bits like New front fenders, new side skirts, new front bumper which I just bought the other day and the car will be heading for full respray once everything is okay engine & tune wise. I want to keep the car, otherwise it has to go to the scrap yard...
And last but not least Custom 8V Steering Wheel & 8V Gear knob.

Please, do not hate me and take my apology for pictures being out of order in places...
It was really hard for me to write down this story and trying to export most of the photos out of my phone at the same time, there are and lots of Videos, unfortunately I cannot upload them inhere.
It took me nearly 2 days in total and tried my best.
There's more recent updates to come from just when the car was finished during past Jan.
I will continue posting and will try to explain everything in detail followed by pictures in detail what has been done and what I've done by myself finilizing things up.
ILMS4213.jpg

CIJD1613.jpg

Thank you for your time and do not give up, no matter what it costs!
 
  • Like
Reactions: thegoal007, S4 Muzza and Ian W
the alloys lok different when driven/on the move compared to the pictue above it with you and your son (i assume)
 
the alloys lok different when driven/on the move compared to the pictue above it with you and your son (i assume)
Yes, that’s correct. And yes, that’s my boy!
I was forced to use the wheels you see in motion. The picture has been taken the same night that the car was finished and officially road legal once again after being 2y. Off the road.
My rear Calipers were hitting the inner side of the barrel on the BBS CK’s since their barrel shape goes INWARDS and S3 rear Caliper Sidewall goes vertical against the wheel barrel so the wheel was laying over the caliper or either way I put on my old spacer on top of my new Hubcentric one to make clearence of 60mm in total to move the car around the Garage while we were finilizing it. It happens because of my 335mm Discs. No issues on the front with 360mm and 18z calipers.
Luckily I had bought those Rota MC3’s 18” previously because I liked them wheels alot and they fit like a charm with plenty of space on the rear caliper without rubbing and they saved me from Buying another brand new set of tyres and going 19”. I still got the BBS’s tho. I love to have two sets of wheels and it’s been always like so.
 
Last edited:
those alloys do look good on the move. Are you able to post a picture of your car with those alloys standstill.
 

Similar threads

Replies
2
Views
552
Replies
2
Views
749
Replies
0
Views
722