Fault codes after battery replacement

[V6_Man]

Hi Folks,

I finally picked up an Audi A4 B8 (1.8tfsi) and the seller replaced the battery for me and replaced it with He bought a new Yuasa HSB110 Silver (800amps and 85aH). I must admit the seller has been very very helpful and has assured me that he will fix any issues with the car. This has now also resolved the speedo issue and it no longer dims certain areas on the instrument cluster. I have been running the car since and can't see any issues with the instrument cluster anymore. I also tried coding the battery but Yuasa doesn't seem to have a BEM code and I am not sure how to code it - any helps?

Also, I ran the scan again last night and it showed me few error messages. The one below was there before the battery was replaced. I have now cleared it. I will scan tonight and see if it comes up again.

Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:. 8T0-907-468.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 907 468 R HW: 8T0 907 468 H
Component: GW-BEM 5CAN H06 0105
Revision: GB600050 Serial number: 5000G1012080DF
Coding: 00C303
Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
VCID: 50A900F103D272C65A-8004

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K0 915 181 E HW: 8K0 915 181 E
Component: J367-BDM H07 0170
Serial number: 100024A1140110

1 Fault Found:
03041 - Energy Management Active
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 131
Mileage: 80134 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.10.06
Time: 09:48:17

Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 10111
Voltage: 11.70 V
Count: 6

This one has now been cleared. I will run the scan again tonight and find out if it comes up again.

However, there are two additional codes which have come up, which were not there before. These have a time-stamp of exactly when the battery was changed as I changed the date/time when I reached home.

Address 01: Engine (------CDHB) Labels:| 06H-907-115-CAB.clb
Part No SW: 8K1 907 115 M HW: 8K1 907 115
Component: 1.8l R4/4V TF H11 0002
Revision: A5H11---
Coding: 0104000C02070120
Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM18TFS8K1907115M A01002
ROD: EV_ECM18TFS_AU48.rod
VCID: 387958518362CA8672-806C

1 Fault Found:
7781 - Engine Off Timer Performance
P150A 00 [032] - -
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 80412 km
Date: 2009.06.26
Time: 00:15:20

Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 72 °C
Intake air temperature: 57 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.038 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 35

Readiness: 0000 0000

-----------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels:. 8Tx-820-043-3Z.clb
Part No SW: 8T2 820 043 AF HW: 8T2 820 043 AF
Component: KLIMA 3 ZONEN H08 0171
Revision: D0000000 Serial number: 01220120101531
Coding: 64040000
Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
VCID: 76E59669C1F67CF6A0-8022

1 Fault Found:
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 138
Mileage: 80412 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2009.06.26
Time: 00:04:02

I have cleared 01206 but not 7781 and I was wondering what this is and whether or not I should clear it.

Would appreciate any help. Thanks.

 

[V6_Man]

And the group 18, 19, and 20 show the following battery readings - any good?

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[EXSpartan36]

Does the car have auto start/stop?

 

[V6_Man]

Does the car have auto start/stop?

No, it doesn’t.


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[JRock247]

7781 I think relates to a low voltage, so perhaps when the old battery was still in use the fault code was stored. I would clear it and see if it comes back. Possible just an old fault left over with the old battery or because the battery has not been coded into the car and the car still thinks it's using the old battery. pretty sure once coded in, the fault will clear.

Extract from another forum - ''Theoretically, I believe it is easy to recode the battery using VCDS (screen 19-CAN@gateway _> Long Adaptation -> Channel 4 -> Battery identification) if the new battery has a 10-digit BEM code stamped on it, just by a QR code like VAO 180521L053 ''

 

[V6_Man]

7781 I think relates to a low voltage, so perhaps when the old battery was still in use the fault code was stored. I would clear it and see if it comes back. Possible just an old fault left over with the old battery or because the battery has not been coded into the car and the car still thinks it's using the old battery. pretty sure once coded in, the fault will clear.

Extract from another forum - ''Theoretically, I believe it is easy to recode the battery using VCDS (screen 19-CAN@gateway _> Long Adaptation -> Channel 4 -> Battery identification) if the new battery has a 10-digit BEM code stamped on it, just by a QR code like VAO 180521L053 ''

Cheer mate. I had a look at it last night and have tried multiple combinations but nothing worked. Yuasa’s serial number is numeric and I believe the requirement is for it to be alphanumeric (combination of letter and digits)?

Pic below:

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[JRock247]

Have you tried taking out the battery to see if there are any other codes on it or maybe contact Yuasa’s and see if they can help?

 

[V6_Man]

Have you tried taking out the battery to see if there are any other codes on it or maybe contact Yuasa’s and see if they can help?

Haven't tried Yausa yet but will give them a call tomorrow. I have also checked every where on the battery and although there are two character prior to e serial number neither they appear to be part of serial no nor the ECU accepts them. I am planning on connecting VCDS again over the weekend. Ross-wiki has a way of manually entering the serial number, I need to read it in detail first before attempting it.

However, it would help if anyone who has used Yuasa's HSB range and managed to code them in.

 

[rum4mo]

I was in Halfords today and used their "battery selector" thing, I inputted my 2011 S4 reg number and away it went, and returned what I suspect was a couple of lead acid batteries and an option to upgrade to AGB - which I thought was a bit weird as my car came from the factory with an AGB even although it does not have Stop/Start - well I selected the "AGB upgrade" option and that returned nothing, well after 10 minutes it was still searching - if that is of any use to anyone?

Edit:- I've just checked the Yuasa website battery selector, and see that my 2011 S4 does not require any battery coding, does not have "regenerative braking" and does not get offered an AGB battery, my car does require battery coding, has regenerative braking and from factory has an AGB battery fitted!
I have just run the same checks using my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS SEL and it does require battery coding, does have regenerative braking, does have Stop/Start and does require an AGB battery, well most of that ties in with what the car is/has, with only the battery type being wrong, VW Group only ever fitted ELB batteries to these cars, so that is wrong although in this case most people would spend more and only ever replace that ELB with an AGB battery.

So, why is Yuasa getting it so wrong? Can any of what their applications listing says be trusted, I had hoped for a lot better from Yuasa, maybe when the time comes I'll avoid buying their batteries!

 

[rjsdavis]

Hi Folks,

I finally picked up an Audi A4 B8 (1.8tfsi) and the seller replaced the battery for me and replaced it with He bought a new Yuasa HSB110 Silver (800amps and 85aH). I must admit the seller has been very very helpful and has assured me that he will fix any issues with the car. This has now also resolved the speedo issue and it no longer dims certain areas on the instrument cluster. I have been running the car since and can't see any issues with the instrument cluster anymore. I also tried coding the battery but Yuasa doesn't seem to have a BEM code and I am not sure how to code it - any helps?

Hi Tashfeen

Did you manage to resolve this battery coding issue?

I have an A6, but similar problem insofar that I also had to replace the battery, and bought the correct one from TPS - which was a Yuasa YBX5020 (900A). My issue is the same as yours, in that I can't program it in to the car using VCDS in Module 61 (Battery Regulation).

There's a useful coding video on Ross-Wiki, but the Yuasa battery doesn't have a BEM code at all. Just the model number on the top, and the serial number on the side. VCDS rejects the "YBX5020" as it states that it requires a "10/11 digit alphanumeric code". Clearly, mine is only 7 characters.

My serial number is 10 characters, but because the part/model number is too short - it wouldn't have it. Yuasa isn't in the drop-down list of battery manufacturer's either - just Varta / Excel and a few others which I'd never heard of. TPS (VW) no longer sell Varta batteries!

In the end, I cancelled the code change, and tried changing the serial number of the existing (old) Varta battery that I'd removed (with gen Audi part number) up by one digit on the last digit and saved with "default" settings for the modules. Went for a test run, and all seems ok at the moment - a rescan after the test drive didn't throw up anything...

 

[Ape988]

As far as i know the code doesnt rly have to be the one u have on the battery. U can type in 10 zero digits for all the car cares. The point of this is that the battery management knows the battery was replaced.

Cheers

 

[rjsdavis]

Thanks Ape988

Can I ask - on a scale of 1-10, how confident are you that this is the case?

I ask, as the new battery has been in situ for a few months now, and I appear to have a MAHOOOSSIVE battery drain from somewhere. The car is usually unable to start after just 24 hours of the last decent use (not just in the cold Winter days either - any day of the week and in any weather). The old, original, battery was indeed el kaputo, and this is fine, but the brand new one really doesn't last long from a full charge - either that, or something is draining it very quickly after the car is shut down and locked up.

My top suspect is the MMI system not shutting down properly. The very latest MMI software has already been purchased from my local Audi main stealer and installed weeks ago, and this made no difference whatsoever. So... this is why I'm asking, as I had been attempting the VCDS battery coding, in anticipation of this being successful (!), so that I could actually rule this out as the cause of the bigger battery drain problem!

 

[V6_Man]

Hi Tashfeen

Did you manage to resolve this battery coding issue?

I have an A6, but similar problem insofar that I also had to replace the battery, and bought the correct one from TPS - which was a Yuasa YBX5020 (900A). My issue is the same as yours, in that I can't program it in to the car using VCDS in Module 61 (Battery Regulation).

There's a useful coding video on Ross-Wiki, but the Yuasa battery doesn't have a BEM code at all. Just the model number on the top, and the serial number on the side. VCDS rejects the "YBX5020" as it states that it requires a "10/11 digit alphanumeric code". Clearly, mine is only 7 characters.

My serial number is 10 characters, but because the part/model number is too short - it wouldn't have it. Yuasa isn't in the drop-down list of battery manufacturer's either - just Varta / Excel and a few others which I'd never heard of. TPS (VW) no longer sell Varta batteries!

In the end, I cancelled the code change, and tried changing the serial number of the existing (old) Varta battery that I'd removed (with gen Audi part number) up by one digit on the last digit and saved with "default" settings for the modules. Went for a test run, and all seems ok at the moment - a rescan after the test drive didn't throw up anything...

I tried all sorts of combinations but it would reset to the old one after every change. So, I gave up in the end. For me, the car is behaving fine now. I did take a VCDS read of battery status and it appears to be fine.


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[V6_Man]

Thanks Ape988

Can I ask - on a scale of 1-10, how confident are you that this is the case?

I ask, as the new battery has been in situ for a few months now, and I appear to have a MAHOOOSSIVE battery drain from somewhere. The car is usually unable to start after just 24 hours of the last decent use (not just in the cold Winter days either - any day of the week and in any weather). The old, original, battery was indeed el kaputo, and this is fine, but the brand new one really doesn't last long from a full charge - either that, or something is draining it very quickly after the car is shut down and locked up.

My top suspect is the MMI system not shutting down properly. The very latest MMI software has already been purchased from my local Audi main stealer and installed weeks ago, and this made no difference whatsoever. So... this is why I'm asking, as I had been attempting the VCDS battery coding, in anticipation of this being successful (!), so that I could actually rule this out as the cause of the bigger battery drain problem!

If you have a battery drain then whether you code in the battery or not it won’t make much of a difference. Did you test the alternator and/or starter. I would also try taking out different fuses and see if you can find out a cause starting with the instrument cluster first. It can be the battery cables as well?


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[Ape988]

If the car doesnt start after 24h then u have a battery drain for sure. The alternator is fillin good for sure? Don't know from memory but it's worth checkin if the b8 had the info for battery drain/management/history on the vag tester, either vcds or odis.

For the code im 100% confident, its just so the b.management knows the battery is new so it manages the alternator function etc etc. Naturally depends on the car model/year/start/stop system and so on, on what the management system is actually affecting. I did put random codes after noname battery replacement and its basiclly the same, was done with ODIS but that shouldnt make any difference.

Cheers

 

[rjsdavis]

If you have a battery drain then whether you code in the battery or not it won’t make much of a difference. Did you test the alternator and/or starter. I would also try taking out different fuses and see if you can find out a cause starting with the instrument cluster first. It can be the battery cables as well?
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Thanks for the replies - the point of the battery coding, was to at least rule it out bare minimum as the cause. I never really suspected this not being done as the actual or likely cause of the rapid drain...

How did you read the battery status with VCDS? (I haven't seen that function yet).

Yes, I have had the battery / alternator tested by four separate garages now. Each provided a different result! First said there were no problems at all. Second said my new battery was kaput. Third was unable to get any reading at all and interpreted that as a "battery drain issue preventing the equipment from getting a read", and the fourth was a straight pass with no problems! Make of that what you will... What it did seem to show was the alternator was charging ok.

I've heard about the battery charge/jumper posts and cables getting extremely hot in the engine bay on another post - mine don't, so I'm hopeful that this isn't the cause.

After ruling out the battery coding as a possible cause, my next was to try running a mulitmeter off the battery posts in the boot, and see if I can identify a draw when the car is off and key out of ignition. I was going to start pulling out the fuses one by one to see if I could narrow down a culprit, as another forum user found that removing Fuses 1 & 2 from the black holder in the boot (MMI components) significantly reduced a 5A (!!) draw when the car was off!

 

[rjsdavis]

For the code im 100% confident, its just so the b.management knows the battery is new so it manages the alternator function etc etc. Naturally depends on the car model/year/start/stop system and so on, on what the management system is actually affecting. I did put random codes after noname battery replacement and its basiclly the same, was done with ODIS but that shouldnt make any difference.

Ok, thanks Ape988

 

[Ape988]

Just for an info, maybe u know this allready, but once the car is off and locked, there's a certain ammount of time for all the 'controllers' (dont know the eng word for it sorry) to fall 'asleep', 5min-10 min(some even more). If u start measurin before that, you will see drainage from smth that is ok but still running in the background. Just as an info.

 

[rjsdavis]

Just for an info, maybe u know this allready, but once the car is off and locked, there's a certain ammount of time for all the 'controllers' (dont know the eng word for it sorry) to fall 'asleep', 5min-10 min(some even more). If u start measurin before that, you will see drainage from smth that is ok but still running in the background. Just as an info.

Thanks Ape

As the battery is in the boot, the best I'll be able to do is have the key out of the ignition, as the tailgate will need to be wide open whilst I have the multimeter on the battery posts in any event.

I suspect what I'll do, is to leave it overnight, and simply unlock the car in the morning, open the boot and commence measuring. That way, the car won't have been on, and anything that's been running/drawing overnight, will be more obvious.

I'd like to think that anything that's killing a 900amp battery in about 24 hours will be fairly obvious!

 

[V6_Man]

Thanks for the replies - the point of the battery coding, was to at least rule it out bare minimum as the cause. I never really suspected this not being done as the actual or likely cause of the rapid drain...

How did you read the battery status with VCDS? (I haven't seen that function yet).

Yes, I have had the battery / alternator tested by four separate garages now. Each provided a different result! First said there were no problems at all. Second said my new battery was kaput. Third was unable to get any reading at all and interpreted that as a "battery drain issue preventing the equipment from getting a read", and the fourth was a straight pass with no problems! Make of that what you will... What it did seem to show was the alternator was charging ok.

I've heard about the battery charge/jumper posts and cables getting extremely hot in the engine bay on another post - mine don't, so I'm hopeful that this isn't the cause.

After ruling out the battery coding as a possible cause, my next was to try running a mulitmeter off the battery posts in the boot, and see if I can identify a draw when the car is off and key out of ignition. I was going to start pulling out the fuses one by one to see if I could narrow down a culprit, as another forum user found that removing Fuses 1 & 2 from the black holder in the boot (MMI components) significantly reduced a 5A (!!) draw when the car was off!

Module 19 (CAN Gateway) - Measuring Blocks - Group 18, 19 and 20 will give you battery status. See an example below:

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[rum4mo]

Oh, I'll need to check these measuring blocks on my S4 sometime just to have to back up my annual battery testing using a CTEC battery tester.

Opening the hatch/boot of a "sleeping" car will still wake up some controllers so I'd guess that will not work, why not, when you have plenty time, open the hatch/boot and then trip the hatch/boot locking latch so that the car thinks that the hatch/boot has been closed. Then after maybe 20 minutes, take a DMM and with it set on a low current range, connect the -ve side of the DMM to the earth lead using a croc clip, then connect the +ve side of the DMM to the battery -ve post using a test spike - then loosen off the -ve battery lead and ease it up over the spike - ie up and off the -ve battery post and over an insulated section of the test spike, the DMM reading will be the drain current. You would need to refit the battery -ve lead again and remove fuses and recheck drain. One thing, if you also need to have access to any fuse boxes under the bonnet or in the car, you would need to have already opened the bonnet and tripped its locking latch and the same with the front doors.

I think that Audi and all other VW Group companies suggest another method, and that is to check the voltage drop across each fuse after the car is "sleeping" - to do that you would need to trip the latches as described above and wait for the car to go to "sleep" somewhere on the internet or in Erwin you should find a table of "in circuit fuse drop voltages".