A3 quattro running "326bhp" help

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JsAudi

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Hey guys as you can tell from my post count I'm new. I have been lurking in the shadows for a while trying to research issues I have been having with my car.

Now firstly my car is a 2000 a3 quattro with a bam engine fitted k04 turbo, 3in exhaust, 550cc injectors, fmic, forge piping and mapped. I have a dyno print out of what the car was producing and it clocked 326bhp and 277lbs ft. But I'm not here to dispute numbers as from what I have read my print out could be quite generous.

Anyway back to the point of my post. The car has a 5 speed manual with supposed updated clutch but recently I'm sure it's starting to slip when hitting boost but only in 3rd and 4th. What are my options for putting a new clutch in? I am going to ditch the DMF. can anyone recommend anything given the supposed power out of the car?

Now here is where it gets a bit tricky. I don' have access to vagcom or vcds at the moment but if I keep the car it will be something I will invest in. I am fairly new to audi turbos. Have always been a honda man and still am. This is mearly a daily driver for me.

Now when I bought the car there was no diverter valve fitted to it. He also said that he got something added to the map too make it pop and bang a lot when you lift off above 3000 rpm. Now i personally think now he's talking garbage.
When trying to hold the car above 3000rpm it constantly lurches kind of like tapping the accelerator pedal fast in first making the car undrivable. Its fine when you accelaerate through or lift of completely. Is what he said true or after noticing he removed some parts from the engine from the original advert namely ramair filter red coil packs could it be that he has removed the bigger injectors and fitted the stock 1s back in? Is there anyway too check what injectors are fitted?

Sorry for the long winded first post I hope it makes sense. Advice and pointers welcome.

I will try and get some pics of the engine bay so you can have a look. I have since fitted a dv to the car because the guy never had 1 fitted I asked why and he said he had nothing but issues with it fitted.

Cheers

Jamie
 
A fair whack of potential confusion here. If you're able to post up the original ad and a handful of photos it should help clear things up nicely.
 
When I switched on my pops and bangs (total crap and ruins stuff) it was done by retarding the timing quite heavily at low loads this caused the car to have horrible engine breaking, and you couldn't accelerate slowly. but your lurching sounds more like a misfire. maybe the problems you are experiencing are the ones he was talking about hence no DV.
 
So it is a thing that can be added too the map then. Well at least I know thats true. It isn't a misfire that's causing it. But yeah you can't hold the car at 3000 rpm because it makes it undrivable.
The issues were there before having the dv fitted.

I will try see if I can find the original ad. And get pics up.

What's the best direction to go regarding the clutch situation?
 
That depends on what's actually going on with the car (if it's a stock k04-02x then 326bhp is unlikely, however it could be a hybrid of some form etc). Actual power/torque level, as well as your intentions for the car, will have an impact on the best recommendations.

A look at the likes of Sachs, Helix (Sorry Bill!), CG Motorsport and the like will give you a good idea of what's out there and prove a start point, as well as some forum trawling (plenty of info on running a G60/VR6 setup etc)
 
I cant help you with the clutch - I think mines hanging on by the skin of its teeth.

does it not pop and gargle on a run down say from accelerating in second over 30 then backing off the throttle. mine was based on simply overfuelling on load then ****** massively on low load, so you wouldn't get it when driving around slowly - but coasting on a motorway was a nightmare you either needed to accelerate or brake - but I think my exhaust is blowing a bit more now.

here Ian did it properly for his S3 with flames - pretty sure it was a few days before an engine rebuild started.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/not-another-nogaro.278975/page-3
 
Last edited:
Do you have an 02J or 02M gearbox?

02m is 240mm, Sach SRE is the go to clutch under 400 ft lbs, choice of organic clutch or paddle.


02J is 228mm, you can use an ABF or G60 single mass flywheel with a VR6 clutch.
Stock VR6 clutch is rated to 320 ft lbs or so but you can get an uprated one for cheap.

02j gearbox is know for being relatively weak, and the upgrade is the 02m
 
Rainbird said:
That depends on what's actually going on with the car (if it's a stock k04-02x then 326bhp is unlikely, however it could be a hybrid of some form etc). Actual power/torque level, as well as your intentions for the car, will have an impact on the best recommendations.

A look at the likes of Sachs, Helix (Sorry Bill!), CG Motorsport and the like will give you a good idea of what's out there and prove a start point, as well as some forum trawling (plenty of info on running a G60/VR6 setup etc)
Click to expand...


Tbh I'm quite happy with the power output. I'm generally quite sceptical with dyno figures. So as for increasing power that won't be happening. It's daily driver for me I have my other toy for fun. I'm guessing an oem won't be up too the job?
 
Stuart B said:
I cant help you with the clutch - I think mines hanging on by the skin of its teeth.

does it not pop and gargle on a run down say from accelerating in second over 30 then backing off the throttle. mine was based on simply overfuelling on load then ****** massively on low load, so you wouldn't get it when driving around slowly - but coasting on a motorway was a nightmare you either needed to accelerate or brake - but I think my exhaust is blowing a bit more now.

here Ian did it properly for his S3 with flames - pretty sure it was a few days before an engine rebuild started.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/not-another-nogaro.278975/page-3
Click to expand...

Yeah it does it on the over run and down rev. So dropping off power above 3000 rpm. Sounds nice but jus can't handle the lack of drivability trying to keep a constant speed above 3000 rpm.
 
It’s very generous if it’s a standard ko4 but if it’s a hybrid I’d expect more torque
 
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antwan64og said:
Do you have an 02J or 02M gearbox?

02m is 240mm, Sach SRE is the go to clutch under 400 ft lbs, choice of organic clutch or paddle.


02J is 228mm, you can use an ABF or G60 single mass flywheel with a VR6 clutch.
Stock VR6 clutch is rated to 320 ft lbs or so but you can get an uprated one for cheap.

02j gearbox is know for being relatively weak, and the upgrade is the 02m
Click to expand...

I have no idea of the gearbox code I'm afraid. All I can tell you is it's a 5 speed manual quattro gearbox.
 
Oh really? I was blissfully unaware of that (evidently!). Every day's a school day :relaxed:
 
I'm on 306lbft with stock clutch, over 3k now, multiple launches, an hour on track, still holding up,
 
You can use a SMF on an 02m... you just got to get the right one... it will make the gearbox chatter like mad on idle though....

I still use a DMF on mine and I am running a bit more power than you... it works, its quiet and you don't need to go to the gym to be able to use it in traffic

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
You can use a SMF on an 02m... you just got to get the right one... it will make the gearbox chatter like mad on idle though....

I still use a DMF on mine and I am running a bit more power than you... it works, its quiet and you don't need to go to the gym to be able to use it in traffic

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

I would rather fit a lighter flywheel anyway. Plus if you tried the clutch on my crx anything feels light. A good drive in it and you come back with a left calf like arnies lol.

So complete noob question here what would be the right 1?

Cheers
 
JsAudi said:
So complete noob question here what would be the right one?
Click to expand...

No idea :)

@Prawn runs an SMF in his track car so may be able to point you in the right direction... there are a few 'iffy' ones available from certain clutch manufacturers that we cannot mention...

TTV make SMF's, CG Motorsport seem to have a decent rep too...

JUst be aware that the A3/S3 quattro is not a light car... go too light on the SMF and it will be an a$$ to drive... welly fitted an alloy one from fidanza to his S3 and was forever stalling pulling off (fnarr..)

<tuffty/>
 
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<tuffty/> said:
No idea :)

@Prawn runs an SMF in his track car so may be able to point you in the right direction... there are a few 'iffy' ones available from certain clutch manufacturers that we cannot mention...

TTV make SMF's, CG Motorsport seem to have a decent rep too...

JUst be aware that the A3/S3 quattro is not a light car... go too light on the SMF and it will be an a$$ to drive... welly fitted an alloy one from fidanza to his S3 and was forever stalling pulling off (fnarr..)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Ok cool. So it's not something I will get from a motor factors then?
 
<tuffty/> said:
not really... std part is a DMF... there is no 'factory' SMF for an o2m gearbox setup

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Cool I will check cg motorsport. Is there anyway to turn off that ridiculous pop and bang thing that's on my map? Or is it going to be a case of getting the car remapped?
 
JsAudi said:
Cool I will check cg motorsport. Is there anyway to turn off that ridiculous pop and bang thing that's on my map? Or is it going to be a case of getting the car remapped?
Click to expand...
remap dude...

<tuffty/>
 
I have another question regarding the engine. Why would someone disconnect the cam chain tensioner unit on the end of the head and jam a resistor in it? I have pulled the resistor out and plugged it back in and it seems to not make any difference? Eml light doesn't come on when it' plugged back in. I'm guessing it has something to do with the vvt system?
 
JsAudi said:
I have another question regarding the engine. Why would someone disconnect the cam chain tensioner unit on the end of the head and jam a resistor in it? I have pulled the resistor out and plugged it back in and it seems to not make any difference? Eml light doesn't come on when it' plugged back in. I'm guessing it has something to do with the vvt system?
Click to expand...

Your car shouldn't come with VVT IIRC... 2001 and up had VVT...

Whats the engine code? you can find it here...
audi_engine_code_awm_2.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
JsAudi said:
It was originally an auj I think. It has the BAM engine in it now.
Click to expand...
Explains why its got VVT and its not connected... wonder if they did a wideband conversion too...

Gonna be one of those mongrel cars you need to see to be able to work out if its an issue...

What did they jam the resistor in? if its the original wiring loom then it won't have a connector for the VVT... they could have done an N249/N112 bypass and got rid of the solenoids... doesn't always work and can cause issues with fuelling... depends what other work (or bodges) they have done I guess...

<tuffty/>
 
I can only assume that they used the BAM engine loom. I found the plug wrapped round the dipstick with the resistor in it. The joys of buying other people's work. Lol. It seems to run fine with the resistor in and also when you actually plug the sensor in. I think what I will do later is get some photos uploaded of the engine bay after work as it may give a better idea as too what's been done.
 
<tuffty/> said:
Explains why its got VVT and its not connected... wonder if they did a wideband conversion too...

Gonna be one of those mongrel cars you need to see to be able to work out if its an issue...

What did they jam the resistor in? if its the original wiring loom then it won't have a connector for the VVT... they could have done an N249/N112 bypass and got rid of the solenoids... doesn't always work and can cause issues with fuelling... depends what other work (or bodges) they have done I guess...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Would getting it on vagcom shed any light on it?
 
JsAudi said:
Would getting it on vagcom shed any light on it?
Click to expand...
should elude to what ECU number etc is in use...

Given what it is (or isn't) yo might be better off booking it in with Bill or a n other specialist to give it a once over... if its been 'played' with then its not going to be easy to diagnose issues without knowing whats been changed from standard

Have seen loads in my time and engine swaps are generally a real pain as the subtle differences between them tend not to get sorted out correctly and while they run they don't run well..

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
should elude to what ECU number etc is in use...

Given what it is (or isn't) yo might be better off booking it in with Bill or a n other specialist to give it a once over... if its been 'played' with then its not going to be easy to diagnose issues without knowing whats been changed from standard

Have seen loads in my time and engine swaps are generally a real pain as the subtle differences between them tend not to get sorted out correctly and while they run they don't run well..

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Yeah that was my intention after Christmas. Being based in the north of Scotland has it's disadvantages. There is a place in kirkcaldy that deals with tuning audis. Thankfully they do things properly as oppoed to generic flashes. But judging by the figures already on the dyno sheet I would say it was running alright at the time. Although I think it could be improved a bit. There's a few things that have jus rung alarm bells with it now after doing some digging and having a proper look over the car. That sensor being 1, no recirc valve being fitted and that ****** popping and banging thing he put on the map. Now possibly a new clutch in the future and it did develop a misfire but I got a hold of new second hand coil packs and that seems to have sorted that.
 
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