1.8t Quattro build for keeps.

[Samuel c5 Q]

Hi everybody.

I joined just before Christmas and have managed to get a few pictures gathered together for a build thread.

First I suppose a bit about me as I'm a self centred sort of person, only joking. I have fancied a four wheel drive vehicle for long enough and cosworths just wouldn't work for me and I like Subaru impreza to drive but not to own. I really like how vw and seat make you feel when driving them so came to the realisation that it had to be a Quattro. I really fancied a b5 s4 but it just wasn't happening at the time with work being up and down and starting a new family. Also space is an issue with rear passengers as I'm 6'3" tall. I could kick myself for not going for a c4 s4 at one point as it was a lovely car but the turbo was woooooing away and abs faults on it. By the time I hmmmed and haaaed it was gone. So set my sites on a c5 Quattro. I went to look at a 2.7 bi turbo 230bhp, that must have been sick as my 165bhp (originally 110bhp) tdi mk1 Leon made it feel slow. Gave that a by ball and settled on a 1.8t for the better fuel economy as with our mileage a the biturbo could be an extra £100 a month. Also the 1.8t is 100kg lighter in the front end for better handling and although the biturbo has mega torque and is super smooth the 1.8t has a decent power band with impressive acceleration when tuned.

Northern Ireland doesn't have as good a selection of cars compared to UK mainland so I had to wait for the right one to pop up and get it back here. A very helpful chap in Scotland assisted me in getting his car, now mine, transported back to me.

It's a silver saloon 1.8t Quattro se I think, don't know that there is an s. It definitely isn't a sport. It has a four spoke leather steering wheel with aluminium inlays and grey cloth seats. I think the speakers are bose and it has a six disc cd changer in the boot.

I have another fwd c5 silver saloon 1.8t donor car for panels, electricals and engine spares etc. The Quattro has a few issues but the guy that sold it was very honest.Issues are rust on wings and bottom of doors, cracked windscreen, non standard radio, not sure cd changer is working because of radio, poor brakes, air con temperature sensing fan buzzes, drivers window regulator not working, some wiring issues and fault codes.

Work completed to date:-
Compression test with 185psi across all four cylinders. Air, pollen, fuel and oil filter with oil change. Plugs and wipers with bulbs renewed. New dust front dust shields with 312mm discs and new calipers with pagid pads. Sorted some new clips ands broken wiring at front end. Cleared drain bung and at least 6" of water front battery tray also spraying water repellent and checked the ecu connections for furring. Removed old radio yet to install a factory original. Got a motronic 7 wideband ECU with a map in it coded into the car. I would have done it myself as I have registered vcds lite but was missing an immobilizer code. The method for immobilizer 2 which is what both cars are should have worked but didn't, it took method 3 once the fella had extracted the codes. Cleared all fault codes. Cleaned up some brake pipes and painted them. Fitted a new dust shield, brake disc, caliper and pagid pads to the driver side rear today. Was hoping to get the same done on the passenger side but everything was rusty ir siezed on the drivers side and took forever. A big thanks to desertstormer who got me the wiring diagrams for both cars to be able to make any wiring adaptations required.

Work still to do:-
Finish brakes, fit radio, check changer, fit parrot hads free kit, adapt wiring, change doors, get a dent fixed, fix regulator, secure a cv boot and change the front two, something rubbing on full lock at the front right at the rear of the wheel when turning right. Bit of a blow out on the flexy. Rear diff output flange seals leaking. A ratchet sound from the engine bay when revving down from 1800-1300 rpm when static and blipping the engine. Fit lpg.

Plans for the car:-
Make it road worthy. Fit sport leather seats. Fit eibach and bilstein supension, b12 kit. Short term is to make 300bhp with a k04-023 with supporting mods. I've been a bit stumped on this one though as I've just discovered that the k04-023 won't bolt up to my manifold. I measured the compressor wheel and it matches the sizes listed but the turbine wheel matches the sizes for the k04-015 which are inducer 50mm and exducer 42mm or so. Long term is to stoke my donor engine and go with an efr turbo to make 500-600bhp with as wide a power band as possible.

Mods or changes made so far:-
288-312mm front brakes. The car came with 16" alloys which I have changed for 17" five spoke s line ronals.

Picture time.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

The pictures wouldn't load in the first post so here they are.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Forgot one.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I never got to mention specifics of plans but it's just the usual, FMIC, WMI, big exhaust and rs4 throttle body etc. So when I actually get the stuff and do it then I'll talk about it.

I have bought a set of b5 s4 calipers already though in good condition and painted them red. The 312mm brakes are brand new so I will wait unto they are done before fitting the s4 ones. I hear people saying they are a bit weak but 320mm c hook discs with pagid rs42 blues and narrower gauge goodridge brake lines should make for pretty good stopping especially when I get the 256mm b5 s4 rear setup in. Or I could go for the uprated, 300mm, rear setup and alter the brake bias to compensate until I get a 340 or 360mm front setup. Nit too sure what to go for yet as I want something to fit under 18" fat fives as that's the only other alloy wheel I like apart from the five spoke ronals. I understand I need either a s4 or an a6 biturbo (not sure which one) bearing carrier upright to fit the brake calipers. Or get an adapter bracket machined to fit to my uprights which might actually be easier in the meantime.

Picture of brakes, wow. She is sporting 312mm cross drilled discs with some standard sort of caliper from a 02 biturbo a6. Also forgot to say she's running 225/45/17 Goodyear eagle f1's asymmetrical tyres, v pattern. Also would like to do an engine bay tidy, silicone hoses, catch can and all that but that goes without saying.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Found a few hours this evening to do the passenger side rear brakes tonight. The light was rubbish so only one picture. Fitted was new dust shield and bolts, brake disc, pads, caliper and hand brake cable retaining clip. One of the slide pins needed rubbed down as it was corroded due to the bellow not sealing and letting water in so the bellow was replaced also.

We're getting there. The missus will help me bleed the brakes on Fri or sat.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I know it's been a month but between one thing and another that's the way it goes.

Work done last Friday and Saturday was to swap the driver side doors around from donor car to Quattro. The Quattro now has a nice rust free door that also sits, moves and shuts nicely not requiring any further adjustment after initial fitting. The replacement door has a fully working regulator in it so that's that wee problem sorted. Just have to change the door barrel cylinders over and refit the door card.

Got all the brakes bled through which requires me to take the rear wheels off for access to the nipples. Also noted that the bango bolt seals are weeping so will change those this weekend and re bleed. Tidied the brake pipes and another wee paint at the rear. Also move a brake pipe back a bit and painted it as this was what was rubbing the tyre on full lock. Put the repaired slow puncture back on. The brakes had bound a bit so a test drive sorted that out. The hand brake adjusted up nicely and are bitting well with only a slight bit of slack in the cable.

I double checked my inspection for the MOT and found that the front end lower arms bushes are clean rotten. Also on the test drive the cv joints outers are clicking so will be getting changed at the same time as the arms. One of the gaiters looks brand new too. Power steering is whistling on full lock, hope it's just needing topped up and not knackered.

The test drive was informative anyway. Car doesn't feel any quicker Tha with un mapped ecu in it. Also no check lights came up. Mapped ecu should be looking for a vvt and my car doesn't have one.

 

[quattrojames]

Interesting thread

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Meant to say in that last post that I'll have to throw the rosstech on to her at the weekend and do a log for air flow of the maf. Ttweakers also has a list of good checks that you can do with rosstech to check the health of your engines system. Compression test is the primary engine health check.

I'm hoping that the ratchety sound I hear on lift off at about 1700 rpm isn't the small ends. I couldn't see that being the case, not with her history of oil changes and her compression test results. It did disappear once worm though and she was hard to start after she warmed up but the battery's shagged so will need to look into it further this weekend. I saw exhaust leaking from the down pipe when cold. I'm hoping that's what is making the sound. We'll see.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Turns out the ratchety sound is coming from the cat just after the turbo so with her getting decatted that won't be a problem.

The battery was shagged which threw up a load of DTC's . The AWT ecu is looking for the wideband O2 sensors and their heating elements as well as the secondary air injection system and the camshaft adjustment solenoid. I suspected as much anyway and the wiring will need changed. The MAF readings are not to far off what they should be. 1.6-1.8 g/s on the idle and no erratic readings on a pull. The boost is way down though and there is a DTC for a boost leak so will have to do a vacuum leak and boost leak investigation. The misfire counter logged two misfires and then no more so either I'm not running the program correctly or not reading it correctly or the slightly lumpy idle due to a vacuum leak caused them.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Ratchety sound is the cat.

Battery is shagged causing lots of DTC.

AWT ecu is looking for SAI, camshaft adjustment solenoid and wideband O2 sensors. So wiring needs changed. More importantly is the boost leak. So DV needs checked. MAF looks ok from logs.

Requested boost is 17.25 psi. Be interesting to know what standard is but I couldn't be bother swapping the original ecu in.

Here's a couple of pics of logs. Zoom in and they look alright. MAG is fifth column in. The second pic is requested then actual at the far right of the columns.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Forgot to mention that I replaced the oil dipstick tube while doing the oil change/ service.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Was good to myself and bought this today for £40. Toyosport FMIC which has never been fitted and is like brand new. The weather here has been pants so no work has been done but at least I managed to get the FMIC for a bargain.

As the news reported John Cole used to say "Holy good grief, look at the size of that. "

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Done a wee bit after work today with some dry weather. Both outer C.V. joints and gaiters are getting changed, drivers side is out. Also all lower control arms are getting changed out for decent second hand ones from the donor car. I'll double check the upper control arms in the morning to see of they need changed as well.

I'm still in two minds as should I put a replacement subframe in. I know the current one is wild manky and will need dropped to do the rear lower arms but it may be easier to drop the old one just a bit and alignment may be affected by different component.

I have new tie rods to go in but there's nothing wrong with the old ones so think I will hold off.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I wasn't really thinking of replacing the control arm bushes. I don't know why, just probably because I had powerflex in my head and don't actually like powerflex. I have them in my other car and they aren't that great and don't wear that well either. So I remembered Feb bilstein parts and got all my part numbers off of the febi bilstein web site but it only lets dealers order on their website and I can't find a main uk dealer. Does anyone know a good place to get all the febi bilstein bushes I need? Thanks.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I need a 12mm by 1.5mm cutting before anymore mechanical work proceeds.

I ordered some 4mm id ramair blue vacuum tubing for to go from N249 valve and diverter valve. I got enough to route in a boost gauge.

I had a light bulb moment to fit the whole wideband loom instead of splicing but it's the holiday so I'll just do I a bit of futtering here and there.

I did fit the uprated diverter valve, 710N, but checked the charge pipe off the donor car and noticed small flecks of metal in it. So removed it and washed and dried it and checked it's operation with it holding a strong vacuum. I have not refitted it just yet. The cause of the flecks of metal are most likely from the cam shaft adjuster failing and the chain eating the cam cover and putting metal shavings in the oil which in turn has destroyed the journal bearings in the turbo. This was in the situation in the donor engine.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Done a wee bit of mot prep tonight. Dressed the thread of the ball joint on the driver side front lower control arm. Fitted it to the replacement front subframe, positioned it and torqued it and the antiroll bar drop link as I can't see how it's accessible went fitted up to the car despite Haynes assurances.

Swapped the old narrowband ecu back in until I can get a day to swap in the wideband loom and lambda sensors. I will get a new battery and code the old ecu back in again before the end of the week.

Started to draw in the vacuum tubing and was hoping to get the now clean uprated 710N diverter valve fitted but was thwarted by having no lamp due to some light fingered SO and SO in work relieving me of it.

I lovely picture of my 38mm outside diameter 12mm * 1.5mm pitch cutting die and handle that cost £20. I hope it works as the bushes in the set of arms I have are just about ok. If it passed the mot it will give me time to get a new set of bushes for the other set of arms. Also a whole back end replacement arms and tie rods as well as bilstein b12 kit would be nice to get stuck in.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Wee bit more work done tonight.

Fitted the battery and done a current draw test. 8mA current leak.

Temporarily tidied up wiring at the radio/aircon area.

Fitted new vacuum tubing from n249 valve to diverter valve and to intake manifold. Also fitted new diverter valve. The old one was shagged. It helped by moving the coolant expansion tank out of the way.

Checked the breather hoses and found one split so replaced that with a donor hose.

Checked the exhaust for holes but nothing obvious. I will take it to the exhaust shop for them to double check.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Photos didn't upload in that last post.

Sorry for the double posting of some photos.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

So I managed to get the original narrow band coded back in for the mot emissions.

I changed the drive shaft outer CV joints and boots on the passenger and drivers side. The new drivers side joint seemed to have a bit more float along the length of the axle from thrust washer to the retaining cir clip but it was all there assembled directly with all its bells and whistles.

I removed the old subframe and installed the better looking lest rusty donor subframe with the replacement arms in it. Oh yes, the neighbours do love me and my make shift engine hoist.

I swapped in the healthier looking donor antiroll bar with it's bushes.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Fitted both front drive shafts and set the arm height and connected all the arms links etc to the hub carrier and torque everything up.

Went to replace the rear brake banjo joint seals but discovered I had the wrong size.. They are not leaking but only just and I will get new ones shortly. Bled them through again with the assistance of my lovely assistant .

Refitted the door card for the drivers door after I had greased the cables and runners of the window regulator as it had been sitting a while and stiffened up.

Took the car to the local exhaust shop and found no leaks . He priced me a full turbo back 3 1/2" decat into 3" system back to the y then off into 2 1/2" for the back boxes in stainless steel for £450. Where's that piggy bank.

So off to the mot centre and she failed on a bulge on the side wall of one of the tyres. Ironically I have a good 16" tyre on another Audi rim sitting but didn't think it would go down too well with the mot centre. Also I neglected to inspect the side walls, always forget about the sidewall and seem to pay attention to the tread depth. They never even mentioned the big crack on the windscreen which will be getting sorted real soon. On the way home from the centre I must have ran over a piece of someone's broken spring coil and heard it bouncing off the under side of the car. Hate that.

Anyway, one tyre later and she will be on the road and will get a wheel alignment while she's at it.

She feels a good deal quicker with the new diverter valve and repaired hosing. I will have to do some logs now and check the lambda values and that. She still needs more torque which I can't wait for even in the form of the remapped ecu one I get the loom swapped over.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Not a lot of progress.

Changed the front coin holder to a cup holder.

Replaced the passenger side rear coat hanger drop down thingy. The replacement needed a squirt of silicone spray.

Removed the rear seat cup holders and soaked them in soapy water to remove the stickiness.

Removed the fan from the air con control panel to get a new one but there is no part number on it to order a new one.

Started taking the cruise control stalk out of the donor car to put in the Quattro.

Started to remove the lpg, hands free kit and changed over the original 6 discs changer from the donor car to the Quattro.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Forgot to mention that I put the 16" alloys on to scrub the tyres as that piece of coil pictured that I thought was someone else's coil is actually mine that fell out of the car straight after the mot. So to save the 17" alloys tyres the 16s are on until I can get new shocks and springs in and check/set the alignment.

In to the bargain I have just tonight noticed a knocking noise coming from the o/s/f which could be the shock assembly or the steering rack tie rod end. So much for mots.

Average fuel economy for 2/3 very short journeys and 1/3 long journeys is 27.66mpg

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Does anyone know how to separate these wee boys. I see it slots together but I know I'm going to break it if I go at it anymore. It is part of the cruise control loom. Thanks.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Replaced the interior alarm mute button as the old one was cracked.

Replaced the switch for the mirrors as the old one was missing a tang and kept floating about when you looked near it, very annoying.

Also me in the middle of trying to fit the cruise control with half my tools locked in work, ggrrrrrr.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Does anyone know if a 228mm clutch and DMF from a 1.8t five speed gearbox will work with a 2.8v6 five speed gearbox that usually uses a 240 mm clutch? I believe both flywheels have 23 teeth in the ring gear. I bought a Sachs replacement ages ago at a fair we cost over £300 or so and would still like to use it as I'm not going to get the money back from it. I would however like to get a 2.8v6 Quattro gearbox fitted sooner rather than later. Thanks for any input.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Still haven't figured out if I can use the 1.8t clutch/flywheel with the 2.8v6 gearbox but fancy the s4 box instead but I think a slightly taller 5th gear of 23.4-24 mph would be better. Just enough to get 170-180mph but still have reasonable torque and acceleration in fifth with the other ratios left as is.

What have I done for me lately?

Cleaned IAT sensor, boost pressure sensor, throttle body. Done a throttle body alignment and performed output tests. It made loads of noise on the output tests and I think it all works but ultimately not sure how to check if this us the case or not.

I went for a run and performed a log. I can't upload it at the minute but I'm making 173 bhp as standard...... ?. I'm making 8.5-9 psi of boost which tails off to 4.5/5 psi at 6500 rpm in third. Also my lambda sensors are shagged so that is throwing things off a bit.

I took the wideband loom which is spliced with the lpg loom out of the donor car ready for fitting into the Quattro to replace the narrow band ecu and loom with the remapped wideband ecu also going in.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

What a job it was. Forgot to upload the photos.

I also checked the plugs condition and gap. They are ngk prf6q or something like that with 0.75 mm gap.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I feel like a kid at Christmas as I got mum's garage cleared and the Quattro inside with room to work tonight.

Progress made was the air box out, expansion tank out of the way and loom all disconnected apart from the lambda sensor as my 22mm spanner has went walkies. Also mabye a few connections at the top of the gearbox but I'll know better tomorrow when I get the lambda disconnected.

There is a solenoid not present beside the solenoid which pulls the diverter valve. I think it's the N115 valve for the SAI which won't be getting used anyway but I'll put the solenoid in to keep the ecu happy.

There are a load of connectors on the bulkhead which I don't know are for. There is one extra in the donor car than the Quattro and they are of a different type although still three pins. They are very difficult to get to in order to swap over from engine to engine but I don't have new connector or super seal crimps. I'll sort something. Anyway, a good evenings work.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I forgot to say that the throttle body is quite soiled with oil vapour deposits again and with only just about 200 miles since it was cleaned. I think one of the prv or puck needs changing. Oil catch can time soon then.

Also does anyone know what would be causing a fair bit of heat in one spot about the size of a hand near the top of the drivers side wing? There looks to be a tube from the purge valve that goes into the wing at about that spot but didn't have the time, tools or inclination to remove the inner wheel splash guard last night. Cheers for the shedding of light.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

Narrow band loom is out and wide band loom is in along with a few modifications. The starter signal loom needs run in separate and the alternator signal wire gets taped off as it sits with the positive from starter to alternator. The same lead is included in the wideband loom. Getting this starter cable connected underneath the turbo and cat was a real pig of a job as I didn't want to jack the car up and remove charge pipes and maybe even air conditioner pumps. The loom swapping was a fair task, wouldn't want to do one in a hurry again. The wires at the bulk head were lambda probes, knock sensors and crank shaft position sensor. Theses all needed swapping over from the wideband engine as the lambdas are different and the knock and csp sensor have different connector types.

The wideband ecu is in and just need to get the n80 valve put in as they were different and the n112 valve and cam chain tensioner solenoid will be plugged in to keep the ecu happy.

Just need to match the ecu to the clocks tonight and we're elected.

I put a new TIP on and checked the n75 was the same part number as I've heard that even if same ones a j instead of a c at the end that they can affect the functioning of the car.

I checked the turbo for play in the shaft and thought that it was alright previously but either way last night I found it has axial play. I couldn't measure it but usually if you can feel it then it's not good. I'm estimating 0.3-0.5mm. So that wee hybrid turbo will have to be rebuilt/setup ready for installation soon. The turbo isn't going to grenade soon but I want to get it replaced before it starts eating itself and killing the engine. It's not touching the housing just yet.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I feel a good bit down and like breaking something or saying some unsavoury words.

I can't get the awt ecu from the front wheel drive Audi coded into the Quattro. I have a 5 digit immo code apparently from that car which the awt ecu came from. I got a 5 digit code extracted from the Quattro which enables me to login but I'm not sure if this is the same thing as an immo code.

Long and the short of it is I have registered rosstech with gendan lead and 5 digit numbers for each vehicle but not able to start the Quattro with the donor ecu.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

I put the original apu ecu back into the Quattro and it doesn't have any immobilization issues but I have injector open circuit on all four injectors with both apu and the awt ecu. That means it can't be the ecu if it's both. I'll check the fuse s232 today and hope that this is the problem. I'll bell out the contacts to check the circuit continuity.

 

[Samuel c5 Q]

The wide band loom has some different fuses and relays in the ecu box to control SAI and the main power relay is different. It's a j30 in the narrow band and j249 or something in the wide band loom.

Under the drivers side dash the relays are virtually the same other than the Quattro has an extra relay, 602, over the front wheel drive Audi. The front wheel drive Audi has an extra bit of a loom that goes from the loom on the inside that goes just plugs in above the three fuses on the inside the plug it connects to then goes out and down the chassis along the sill.

Anyway I don't know at the minute what this extra relay is for and extra bit of loom of is for.

My wideband loom is spliced with an lpg loom so I'm thinking that the lpg loom needs connected and energised as it is able to activate which injectors are used be it the gas or petrol ones. Maybe this is why the injectors are open circuit.

 

[QuattroCalum]

Narrow band loom is out and wide band loom is in along with a few modifications. The starter signal loom needs run in separate and the alternator signal wire gets taped off as it sits with the positive from starter to alternator. The same lead is included in the wideband loom. Getting this starter cable connected underneath the turbo and cat was a real pig of a job as I didn't want to jack the car up and remove charge pipes and maybe even air conditioner pumps. The loom swapping was a fair task, wouldn't want to do one in a hurry again. The wires at the bulk head were lambda probes, knock sensors and crank shaft position sensor. Theses all needed swapping over from the wideband engine as the lambdas are different and the knock and csp sensor have different connector types.

The wideband ecu is in and just need to get the n80 valve put in as they were different and the n112 valve and cam chain tensioner solenoid will be plugged in to keep the ecu happy.

Just need to match the ecu to the clocks tonight and we're elected.

I put a new TIP on and checked the n75 was the same part number as I've heard that even if same ones a j instead of a c at the end that they can affect the functioning of the car.

I checked the turbo for play in the shaft and thought that it was alright previously but either way last night I found it has axial play. I couldn't measure it but usually if you can feel it then it's not good. I'm estimating 0.3-0.5mm. So that wee hybrid turbo will have to be rebuilt/setup ready for installation soon. The turbo isn't going to grenade soon but I want to get it replaced before it starts eating itself and killing the engine. It's not touching the housing just yet.

Don't forget that the axial play will be much less when there's oil pressure there, no bearings in them.

Great thread!


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[Samuel c5 Q]

Thanks Calum, just nudge me if I get a bit on the boring side. I try and put the photos up and a write up but I don't think I'm as good as SuperRon at it so if there are any specific photos or anything you want described then say and I'll try my best.

She's alive. The gas ecu needed plugged in as it has complete say over which injectors get used, gas or petrol. So none work if it's out of the loop.

I read that max end float tolerance is 0.15 mm max and that there shouldn't really be any but 0.2mm is permissible for a while. I know what you mean about the oil taking up the wobble/clearance in the other axis.

My k04-023 CHRA has noticeable play in it. About 0.25mm, hard to measure exactly with a steel rule but needless to say it needs new bearings and seals so they have been ordered from turbo rebuild. I got the normal repair kit without staggered oil seal for the shaft. I noticed the k03 housing has a bit of a crack in it so this may have an affect when it gets pushed hard.

So just to get the kit and manifold, cat and downpipe gaskets and assemble the turbo and throw it on.

I was thinking a while ago that the TIP and charge pipe would be different between the k03 and k04 but had forgotten all about it until I checked it earlier. It is different which means the installation of the FMIC has been brought forward which I don't mind but I want to fit a spray kit with my temperature sensing kit and need to get the lpg finished off in a hurry too. The TIP will be a bit of a job though as it can be expensive to mock a custom one up. Will have to think on it and use my old one to work off. 3" TIP here we come.

 

[QuattroCalum]

Have you had any porting done on the exhaust side?


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[Samuel c5 Q]

No not as yet. I was thinking about it. Have you any experience of it/suggestions? I need new chuck bits for my reamer/drill/do it all tool. I could give it a whirl while I'm preparing the turbo.

 

[QuattroCalum]

No not as yet. I was thinking about it. Have you any experience of it/suggestions? I need new chuck bits for my reamer/drill/do it all tool. I could give it a whirl while I'm preparing the turbo.

I opened up the K03 one on mine but I can't make a direct comparison as I only recently discovered I failed to set the wastegate actuator properly
Just used a drill and a tungsten carbide burr, removed quite a bit of material, every little helps as they say. I just removed anything that impedes flow and any flashing.


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[Samuel c5 Q]

Good stuff, it has a crack in it so will be getting replaced anyway with a k04 hot side housing so it can't do any harm. An adaptor plate will have to be used to fix the k04 housing to the longitudinal exhaust manifold. It will be interesting to see the effect of the porting on the performance. I think it will be necessary to stop choking and tail off of the power delivery after about 6000rpm.

I will have to learn how to set the waste gate actuator correctly.

Cheers.

 

[QuattroCalum]

Good stuff, it has a crack in it so will be getting replaced anyway with a k04 hot side housing so it can't do any harm. An adaptor plate will have to be used to fix the k04 housing to the longitudinal exhaust manifold. It will be interesting to see the effect of the porting on the performance. I think it will be necessary to stop choking and tail off of the power delivery after about 6000rpm.

I will have to learn how to set the waste gate actuator correctly.

Cheers.

Port match the exhaust manifold as well, and at the turbo end. Lots to remove, boost builds earlier and comes in smoother.


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