3.2 software update - Portsmouth Audi

Update!

Went to my local Audi specialist.

He told me there is no way you can get around 26mpg driving town/stop start in a 3.2!?!


He wouldn't even entertain the conversation.

He has however agreed that 19mpg is a little low......he thinks it should be around 21-22 for my driving style.

Goki and whodafunk - you must just have two diamond 3.2s of the production run......no two cars are the same I guess.

Booked in for a software check and connection to ODIS to see if my car can take the software update I referenced in my original post.

He is also going to do a general investigation into mpg, checking all sensors and exhaust etc to see if there are any issues.

Thanks for all your help and advice so far on this...I really appreciate it.
 
No worries, do keep us posted as mine is the same software ID as yours so it may benefit me too. Although I'm loath to change anything when it's running fine.

Just checked autotrader for manufacturer mpg figures (see below). If the technician said 26 isn't possible then they ought to change this...
 

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No worries, do keep us posted as mine is the same software ID as yours so it may benefit me too. Although I'm loath to change anything when it's running fine.

Just checked autotrader for manufacturer mpg figures (see below). If the technician said 26 isn't possible then they ought to change this...

Will keep you posted mate.

The manufacturer's mpg figures are always bullcrap.

Going by real world figures (yours and others true mpg) is the only info you can trust on mpg.
 
I know but the point I'm making is Audi shouldn't come out and tell you it's impossible when they advertise these figures. I'm inclined to drive all the way down to meet him personally just to show him he's talking bullcrap
 
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I know but the point I'm making is Audi shouldn't come out and tell you it's impossible when they advertise these figures. I'm inclined to drive all the way down to meet him personally just to show him he's talking bullcrap

Well to be fair Audi are suggesting 20.3 mpg URBAN, you and the other poster are staying you get around 26 mpg.

You should feel lucky, ha ha :)

Everyone knows the manufacturer mpg rating are bullcrap in general because they are done on a rolling road with no wind resistance etc and everything is perfect.

Though a new law/rule is coming in sometime this year which means manufacturers have to actually drive the cars with some extra load (car seat etc) for 15 minutes in each driving scenario (urban, extra urban, motorway etc) to generate REAL figures for the consumer.
 
So I had to fill up again today and brimmed the tank, it took 46.96 litres or 10.34 gallons the odometer was on 270 miles to my maths (and its not that good ) that equates to 26.1mpg, and to repeat my commute is 44 miles per day (22 either direction) in mixed suburban/urban/A roads. FrankenAudi is a pig , when he arrived he had 22 sensor faults, binding brakes , and several other issues, most of which I have posted about on here and many issues are resolved with a few more to go.
I guess what I am saying is reasonable figures are obtainable , I don't often use sport mode and mainly use flappy paddles and drive it like a manual (which I'm use to ) and yes sometimes I will have a play in "sport" mode and yes I would expect 16-19 mpg in that mode.
 
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So I had to fill up again today and brimmed the tank, it took 46.96 litres or 10.34 gallons the odometer was on 270 miles to my maths (and its not that good ) that equates to 26.1mpg, and to repeat my commute is 44 miles per day (22 either direction) in mixed suburban/urban/A roads. FrankenAudi is a pig , when he arrived he had 22 sensor faults, binding brakes , and several other issues, most of which I have posted about on here and many issues are resolved with a few more to go.
I guess what I am saying is reasonable figures are obtainable , I don't often use sport mode and mainly use flappy paddles and drive it like a manual (which I'm use to ) and yes sometimes I will have a play in "sport" mode and yes I would expect 16-19 mpg in that mode.

The tank brimmed at 46, mine brims at about 53!! Ha ha I think I run the tank down way to much! :/

I feel like I'm being cheated out of fuel otherwise, though logically you are only paying for that "left behind" fuel once and it's probably only £5-10 worth.

I rarely use sport either, dosent feel right.

Can't get along with the flappy paddles, I can't quite work out when I need to change gear properly like I could with a manual car.....I would probably waste more fuel drivingthe this, ha ha
 
Yeah I occasionally have a play with paddles to enjoy taking it near to the red line, but in everyday driving I don't find it that useful. You lose the paddles when you go round corners too.

I'm nearly always in Drive mode and very very occasionally try Sport mode. Usually if I want to beat some pumper trying to push in from traffic lights
 
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I have paddle extensions :).....just for Derick (sorry mate rubbing salt into the wound :)....in the nicest possible way of course)
IMG 20170508 181834
 
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Yeah I occasionally have a play with paddles to enjoy taking it near to the red line, but in everyday driving I don't find it that useful. You lose the paddles when you go round corners too.

I'm nearly always in Drive mode and very very occasionally try Sport mode. Usually if I want to beat some pumper trying to push in from traffic lights


Might have another crack with the paddles tomorrow! Have you tried manual shift via the stick?

see attached photos mate, does this seem right?
 

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I have paddle extensions :).....just for Derick (sorry mate rubbing salt into the wound :)....in the nicest possible way of course)
View attachment 125067

Might have another crack with the paddles tomorrow! Have you tried manual shift via the stick?

see attached photos mate, does this seem right?

Guys does this seem right, the voltage on cylinder 4 is really high and keeps jumping up above 1 volt to around 1.2 every few seconds, then back down to 0.936.

all the others seem stable and dont vary much more than a few millivolts every now and then.

also cylinder 5 and 6 is seeming to draw a lot more power than cylinder 1,2 + 3

COIL PACKS!!?!?!?!
 

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The coolant readings area fine mate.

The cylinder voltage was all over the place on mine when I checked. Don't think it's anything to worry about.

Check your injector values (block 013 I think)
 
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Not too sure what the smilies were about...............wasnt what I typed thats for sure !.
 
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As someone who's had the software update done I thought I'd share my experience.

As far as the software that this thread was started for, the infamous "gearbox judder poor acceleration when changing gears at high revs" I was always led to believe only applied to earlier 3.2s and later cars already had the improvements that this brings. You can refer to post #719 in the thread linked below from JU. This shows that the update only applied to cars built from 08/2003 up too 11/2005, and some ecus couldn't be updated at all.


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/help-needed-3-2q-dsg-hesitant-engine-2k-rpm.78089/page-18


So I definitely agree with Whodafunk that your issue lies elsewhere.

As far as why your MPG figures are so bad I'd be stumped too, as all you're engine readouts look normal. (my fuel trim is slightly different though)

You mention that you're mechanic said you couldn't get 26mpg driving in the city with lots of stop start traffic, is this the main sort of driving you're doing? As I do have to agree somewhat, as these cars are abysmal in slow traffic!
What sort of tyres are you running? Have you checked your pressures are correct?



As far as my MPG experience, my car is a almost stock (a few visual mods and an S3 exhaust) mid 2005 manual 3.2 and was updated to software revision 8035. (I did noticed an initial increase in MPG, but it returned to what it was before in a week or so. )

Although my car is a manual and older my car can achieve much better figures than you're getting. My daily commute consists of A roads and motorways and is approximately 27miles long (plenty of time to get warm, these cars are really terrible when cold). Driving normally not trying to conserve fuel, around 28-30mpg is easily achievable, and with really conservative driving I've seen 37mpg cruising in an average speed trap on the motorway. (both DIS readout) Driving like a wally drops it to the mid to low 20's.

An average tank for me is about 28mpg which is good for aound 300-350miles This is around £65-£70 of shell V-Power.
This was a month or so ago when it was quite a bit colder, but you get the idea.







Joe
 
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Not too sure what the smilies were about...............wasnt what I typed thats for sure !.

It did originally have a sad face, it seemed to change when I quoted/replied you?!

Why the sad face mate? :(
 
As someone who's had the software update done I thought I'd share my experience.

As far as the software that this thread was started for, the infamous "gearbox judder poor acceleration when changing gears at high revs" I was always led to believe only applied to earlier 3.2s and later cars already had the improvements that this brings. You can refer to post #719 in the thread linked below from JU. This shows that the update only applied to cars built from 08/2003 up too 11/2005, and some ecus couldn't be updated at all.


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/help-needed-3-2q-dsg-hesitant-engine-2k-rpm.78089/page-18


So I definitely agree with Whodafunk that your issue lies elsewhere.

As far as why your MPG figures are so bad I'd be stumped too, as all you're engine readouts look normal. (my fuel trim is slightly different though)

You mention that you're mechanic said you couldn't get 26mpg driving in the city with lots of stop start traffic, is this the main sort of driving you're doing? As I do have to agree somewhat, as these cars are abysmal in slow traffic!
What sort of tyres are you running? Have you checked your pressures are correct?



As far as my MPG experience, my car is a almost stock (a few visual mods and an S3 exhaust) mid 2005 manual 3.2 and was updated to software revision 8035. (I did noticed an initial increase in MPG, but it returned to what it was before in a week or so. )

Although my car is a manual and older my car can achieve much better figures than you're getting. My daily commute consists of A roads and motorways and is approximately 27miles long (plenty of time to get warm, these cars are really terrible when cold). Driving normally not trying to conserve fuel, around 28-30mpg is easily achievable, and with really conservative driving I've seen 37mpg cruising in an average speed trap on the motorway. (both DIS readout) Driving like a wally drops it to the mid to low 20's.

An average tank for me is about 28mpg which is good for aound 300-350miles This is around £65-£70 of shell V-Power.
This was a month or so ago when it was quite a bit colder, but you get the idea.







Joe


Thanks for your input mate.

I'm hoping the update can be applied (if even possible to my year) but now I'm thinking it can't from what you just said :(

The gearbox is riding the gears a bit to much when accelerating lightly and progressively to get up to speed.....it's almost as if the car is going into kickdown mode as if I have stamped my foot on the gas but without any ecu controlled downshift to justify the extended whine!

My tires are 225/40 R 18, I check them every two weeks for damage and pressure, all is good there. They are budget tyres though......will this make a difference?

I believe the original tyres were 225/45 R 17. (According to my tire fitter) he also pointed out after he had fitted 4 new tyres that they were stretched onto the rims (too small)!!

Regarding fuel......you will probably shoot me here.

I have been filing up with ASDAs finest since day one (they only seem to offer one type on unleaded and I'm not sure what RON that is).

Do you know what Ron asda fuel is?

I gave the car a treat last month and put Esso synergy in (97 Ron I believe) ended up costing me an extra £10 to fill the tank and I achieved 0 extra mpg, still just got around 220-230 out of the tank.......if I'm honest I think I ended up getting less miles than usual.

I don't have a shell garage anywhere near me.

Audi handbook states you should use 98 but can use 95 Ron.

Audi technicians repair handbook states 100% 98 Ron only.

Petrol cap on car shows 98/95, which leads me to believe either is ok.

Does the car take a while to adjust to using higher RON fuel, should I try using it again but disconnect the battery and try to get the car to adjust this way?

Thanks,

Rick
 
The coolant readings area fine mate.

The cylinder voltage was all over the place on mine when I checked. Don't think it's anything to worry about.

Check your injector values (block 013 I think)

Will check them tomorrow bud and post an image for you to check out. Cheers bud
 
Anyone know if blocking the warm air feed on the lower part of the stock airbox will improve mpg? This way it will just get cold air from the front of the car.

Lots of info on web but all very contradictory!
 
Anyone know if blocking the warm air feed on the lower part of the stock airbox will improve mpg? This way it will just get cold air from the front of the car.

Lots of info on web but all very contradictory!

I've not heard anything about this. Do you have any links?

The gearbox is riding the gears a bit to much when accelerating lightly and progressively to get up to speed.....it's almost as if the car is going into kickdown mode as if I have stamped my foot on the gas but without any ecu controlled downshift to justify the extended whine!

From reading this mate I'd look into the DSG calibration. It shouldn't be doing that and surely it has to be affecting your mpg.
 
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I've not heard anything about this. Do you have any links?

It basically makes the intake a CAI (cold Air intake) in its most basic form.

Look up cold air intake Vs warm air intake.



From reading this mate I'd look into the DSG calibration. It shouldn't be doing that and surely it has to be affecting your mpg.

It dosent always do it, seems to be getting worse over the last few days. I'm booked in for a recalibration and software check on the 17th.

Will let you know the results.
 
You can find your current version within 01 - Engine:

View attachment 124374
If you are in or around North London I am able to perform the needed update and have completed this for a good number of forum members already :)


Alix,

My 3.2 is a 2007-2008 model.

Is this update we are talking about still applicable to this and have you done it to a 2007/2008 3.2?

Another poster has come on the thread and says it is only for 2005 and before models?
 
Alix,

My 3.2 is a 2007-2008 model.

Is this update we are talking about still applicable to this and have you done it to a 2007/2008 3.2?

Another poster has come on the thread and says it is only for 2005 and before models?
I don't believe I have updated a 2007/2008 vehicle as yet, 2006 for sure. The update in question could still be valid for a "later" vehicle however as looking at the release date, for example, for the most up to date firmware for the 022906032GH ECU its 30th May 2012.
 
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I don't believe I have updated a 2007/2008 vehicle as yet, 2006 for sure. The update in question could still be valid for a "later" vehicle however as looking at the release date, for example, for the most up to date firmware for the 022906032GH ECU its 30th May 2012.


Alex mine is the 022906032 KC?

I'm confused, are you saying it's possible an update could be due or not bud?
 
Alex mine is the 022906032 KC?

I'm confused, are you saying it's possible an update could be due or not bud?
As per my earlier post there could well be an update for your ECU, however after seeing your ECU information from the VCDS screenshot you supplied I am confused as to which update would need applying as I have never seen a "data display" of this type for an Engine ECU. Your screenshot is reporting the following:
  • ECU Hardware = 022 906 032 GP
  • ECU Software = 022 906 032 KC w/1282 firmware
I would expect, for example, to see the following:
  • ECU Hardware = 022 906 032 GP
  • ECU Software = 022 906 032 GP w/xxxx firmware
Software wise thats it, you have the most up to date version but normally the ECU Hardware and Software part numbers match as per my example above. Because I thought this strange at the time I also looked up 022 906 032 GP and can see that the most up to date firmware is 9970, and if your car will accept the "GP" firmware I am willing to bet that you need this update as this version was released in 2012.

Now the problem is which firmware is valid for your ECU. As far as I can see from the information provided its 1282. Could I apply 9970? I can force it yes, but I might brick the ECU in the process if its not seen as valid for the hardware. Hope this is not getting to confusing...

In order to find out what firmware is 100% needed for your ECU, and if there is an update, you need to have the car plugged in to the VAG network via an authorised 3rd party and have them run "Software Version Management" in order for the systems in Germany to identify whats needed and present the available options.
 
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As per my earlier post there could well be an update for your ECU, however after seeing your ECU information from the VCDS screenshot you supplied I am confused as to which update would need applying as I have never seen a "data display" of this type for an Engine ECU. Your screenshot is reporting the following:
  • ECU Hardware = 022 906 032 GP
  • ECU Software = 022 906 032 KC w/1282 firmware
I would expect, for example, to see the following:
  • ECU Hardware = 022 906 032 GP
  • ECU Software = 022 906 032 GP w/xxxx firmware
Software wise thats it, you have the most up to date version but normally the ECU Hardware and Software part numbers match as per my example above. Because I thought this strange at the time I also looked up 022 906 032 GP and can see that the most up to date firmware is 9970, and if your car will accept the "GP" firmware I am willing to bet that you need this update as this version was released in 2012.

Now the problem is which firmware is valid for your ECU. As far as I can see from the information provided its 1282. Could I apply 9970? I can force it yes, but I might brick the ECU in the process if its not seen as valid for the hardware. Hope this is not getting to confusing...

In order to find out what firmware is 100% needed for your ECU, and if there is an update, you need to have the car plugged in to the VAG network via an authorised 3rd party and have them run "Software Version Management" in order for the systems in Germany to identify whats needed and present the available options.

Thanks Alex. I have got it booked in to be connected to ODIS as per your advice bud :)
 
Will check them tomorrow bud and post an image for you to check out. Cheers bud

Hi mate, Block 013 is empty???

I searched every number from 1-200 and came across nothing that looks like injector values.

I believe it's meant to be listed as "idle speed smooth running adjustments"

Confused!
 
Hi mate, Block 013 is empty???

I searched every number from 1-200 and came across nothing that looks like injector values.

I believe it's meant to be listed as "idle speed smooth running adjustments"

Confused!

Yes it was blank for me, but I assumed that was because I don't have a genuine Ross Tech one. Not sure what it's listed under if it's not that as I went through all the other measuring blocks and couldn't find it
 
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Yes it was blank for me, but I assumed that was because I don't have a genuine Ross Tech one. Not sure what it's listed under if it's not that as I went through all the other measuring blocks and couldn't find it

weird.....mine is meant to be a ROSS-TECH 1-1 clone, it updates off network to avoid being bricked.

What scanner have you got?
 
what fuel are you lot using?

Shell V nitro, Tesco momentum, esso synergy, BP ultimate or cheap stuff?

I think i might fill her up with some special juice next time, ha ha. maybe nitro or ultimate.
 
hi all new here.the dreaded 3.2 misfire 2000rpm! software update.its a 2004 a3 bdb manual 87000 miles.been following this thread and was convinced this was my problem all the symptoms rough idle,very slight hesitation upto 2800rpm. fluctuating rev counter can not hold revs steady from 1400-2800rpm.rev counter will sit at 3000rpm and over no probs. not showing any fault codes . cut a long story short booked it into audi dealer £150+vat an hour gulp. asked them to do diagnostic and update gave them svm no 8p01a005 to be told i already have latest software 8087 confused! done the usual plugs.coil packs. pcv valve. cleaned throttle body and set parameters.fuel filter .maff. checked for air leaks.oil flush. camshaft sensor.temp sensor.had the car 4 years now and used to be very smooth.had this problem a while now and starting to lose the will! seems to be worse when warm! could the dealer have over looked something? cant hear any chain rattle just chain going round pulleys i think(hope). any help ideas would be much appreciated!in the north east thanks all.