How to: Poly Filling Engine Mounts.

[Tom93]

Righto this is a pretty simple self explanatory thing really, but hey if a guide gives you confience to do it then its a win

Things you need:
Engine mounts
Some kind of poly/pouring rubber, casting poly or something. I used this http://www.sheffieldfibreglasssuppl...shore-a60-polyurethane-casting-rubber/9415338

1kg kit but i did end up throwing about 100grams.
Scales to weigh the resin.
A pot to mix in.
Some kind of mixer. Lolly stick, small piece of wood, rolled up cardboard. Its makes a pain to get off so choose something you can bin after.
And some tape/cardboard.

So first get all your stuff in one place ready to work.



Right, because this is a pouring rubber you need to mask off the underside of the mount otherwise when you pour in your rubber it will just fall out the bottom, making a big mess. And no body wants that. So something like this should work...



I should probably say, that actually split mid pouring and i had to pick up and re wrap it in tape to hold the rubber in! So dont skimp on the tape!

Right now you need to weigh the first part of the mix, part A or B it doesnt matter, the ratio is 1:1 so i went for about 250grams of one and then match that with the other...



I had the 1kg kit and just aimed for about 500grams in each mount, i had some left over at the end anyway.

So now, make sure your mount is stood upright, a small cardboard box will aid in supporting it, the plastic cures very quickly so once you pour in the second part you dont have time to faff around. Right now you can add the second part...



Give it a good mix up, about 30seconds, try to stir more that beat it together otherwise you may get air bubbles in there if your too ferocious. Once it all looks uniform in colour and your confident its all mixed you can slowly pour it into your mount. I filled it up to near the top gave it a little wiggle around, to make sure there was no trapped air, then filled it to the top. Hopefully it looks like this...



You can just see a few air bubbles slowly rising in that picture. I kept my eye on mine for 10 minutes then left it for an hour to cure and went back peeled off the tape and had a look at it!



As you can see, the level got a bit high at one point but thats not going to effect it. The mount is now very firm and theres almost no flex in it at all by hand. I left both my mounts sat on top the boiler or any other mildly warm place for 24hours before i fit them just to make sure they set nicely.

Hopefully this helps someone out, any questions bung them down below and ill do my best to answer

 

[mattyboy199]

anymore pics of the mount without tape or in the box just trying to understand what they look like. Also are these brand new mounts ? how much & where from ?

 

[Tom93]

It actually took me ages to figure out, from what i understand all the 1.8t mounts fit. and both sides look very similar. The one used for the guide was the gearbox mount and luckily a meyle one at that I bought these two...



Havent actually got any other pics, and yes they were new, no point trying to prolong tired mounts, might aswell do it right from the start.

 

[Grale1]

How does it feel in the car? I'm currently looking into this process as my downpipe knocks and vibrates through the whole car on left turns and its doing my nut in and was wondering if this would help some of the engine movement.

Si

 

[Tom93]

It sorted out the jerky gear changes i had which is all i wanted them to do really, it all feels very nice on and off the throttle, seems to make pulling away a bit more positive aswell. It is just a mount though, end of the day, it holds the engine.

Have you seen the mounts are elongated? So if you were to crack off the two engine mount bolts and the two gearbox mount bolts, you can use a bar and lever the engine over in either direction... Might help with clearance issues.

 

[VAG-Slag]

I've heard it's recommended to drill out most of the original rubber? . .

 

[Tom93]

That seems pointless imo... Maybe if your going for a much harder compound but this is only shore 60 so i cant see it making a difference.

 

[Prawn]

Depends on your use really Lewis. Track / road. Weekend / daily etc.

I drilled out as much of the rubber as possible, and also broke through into the fluid chambers and drained, cleaned, and poly filled those also to make as close as possible to a solid mount.

I also used 85A resin.

Almost 3 years later, still absolutely solid. Very glad I didn't spend a fortune on VT or similar.

 

[Tom93]

Mines a daily driver so i went for a softer compound

 

[superkarl]

Wish I had tried 60. 85in mine. And whilst gear changes are easy, and I have no clearance issues at all with my home made knocked up in a dark garage with no lights downpipe, I have a ton of vibration through the steering wheel

 

[Scullies]

Wish I had tried 60. 85in mine. And whilst gear changes are easy, and I have no clearance issues at all with my home made knocked up in a dark garage with no lights downpipe, I have a ton of vibration through the steering wheel

I cut up a silicone hose coupler and installed the pieces between the mount and the chassis, helped a lot with the vibrations.
Although doing this will raise the engine/gearbox up about 4-5mm.

 

[Roadtrain]

Thank's @SamHendry about linked to me this topic.

 

[IPG]

hey guys

i'm going to do this in prep for the engine build

i picked up some mounts from a GTI and am trying to decide between 60 or 85?

Currently the car is on bilstein b14's, with power flex solid top mount, superpro bushes in the front except for swaybar (stock) and dogbone which is a red bushed ECS With this setup i don't think it is "vibratey" at all - so will going 85 make it unbearable?

It's my daily so has to be bearable for everyday driving.

thanks peeps!

 

[Roadtrain]

What are differences between 60 and 85? Do you have any picture? Thank you.

 

[scotty_24]

I have 85 and they are unreal! Mines not a daily though. The vibrations at idle have slowly got better as I presume the rubber softens slightly.

I also had downpipe hitting on a left turn issue, fitting these and as stated above using a bar to shove the engine over to the nearside was the fix. No more knocks when kicking its head in on track.

For £30, I literally cant see the point of VT etc etc

 

[<tuffty/>]

What are differences between 60 and 85

25

Durometer Shore Hardness scales..
https://www.smooth-on.com/page/durometer-shore-hardness-scale/

<tuffty/>

 

[Jeriho]

I did mine 60. The whole thing vibrates now to much for my taste im contemplating putting some rubber under the mounts. I cut all the rubber out and filled the things completely. Maybe leaving the rubber in there and just filling them up would be better.

 

[Roadtrain]

25

Durometer Shore Hardness scales..
https://www.smooth-on.com/page/durometer-shore-hardness-scale/

<tuffty/>

Thank you.

 

[Shoomakan]

Wish I had tried 60. 85in mine. And whilst gear changes are easy, and I have no clearance issues at all with my home made knocked up in a dark garage with no lights downpipe, I have a ton of vibration through the steering wheel

Ugh man don't remind me. Poly dogbone and engine mounts cause all sorts of NVH issues in the car... Just yesterday I purchased a very soft rubber compound and literally stuffed the space between the windscreen and dash full of the stuff. Huge difference, now to tackle the vibrations coming through/near the door panels...

 

[Roadtrain]

Ugh man don't remind me. Poly dogbone and engine mounts cause all sorts of NVH issues in the car... Just yesterday I purchased a very soft rubber compound and literally stuffed the space between the windscreen and dash full of the stuff. Huge difference, now to tackle the vibrations coming through/near the door panels...

What's "NVH" means? Thank you.

 

[Shoomakan]

What's "NVH" means? Thank you.

Noise, Vibration, and Harshness.

 

[<tuffty/>]

I think the main issue is application rather than hardness in this case... OE mounts have voids which allow a degree of movement to suppress vibration... just the act of filling these voids is enough to minimise movement of the engine but harder material will transmit more vibration and noise a they are essentially solid..

All you really want to do is minimise engine movement... shore 60 will do that as well as anything else while being soft enough to dampen vibrations (to a degree)...

Even my Vibratechnic mounts have a degree of compliance but are designed to hold the engine steady on its plane of movement...

<tuffty/>

 

[Jeriho]

That might be so Tuffty. But from experience taking all the ruber out makes them to hard. Im bringing the car to Bill tomorow so you can chek it out if you would like. Was the dumest thing i done to this car yet . First time i started it up i was like oh no what have i done ?!?

 

[IPG]

That might be so Tuffty. But from experience taking all the ruber out makes them to hard. Im bringing the car to Bill tomorow so you can chek it out if you would like. Was the dumest thing i done to this car yet . First time i started it up i was like oh no what have i done ?!?

This is good, (maybe not for you but for me), real world experience Jeriho
Looks like 60 is gunna be acceptable for day to day use

 

[<tuffty/>]

But from experience taking all the ruber out makes them to hard

I said nothing about taking the rubber out... just filling the voids..

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Im bringing the car to Bill tomorow so you can chek it out if you would like.

I'm not there in the week dude soz...

<tuffty/>

 

[Jeriho]

I said nothing about taking the rubber out... just filling the voids..

<tuffty/>

No i just expresed myself poorly. Was after a 15 hour drive my bad. And had to deal with converting mph to kmph .
Just ment it as a warning probably great for track but if i would be doing them again well i wouldnt touch them.

 

[IPG]

No i just expresed myself poorly. Was after a 15 hour drive my bad. And had to deal with converting mph to kmph .
Just ment it as a warning probably great for track but if i would be doing them again well i wouldnt touch them.

so you would rather stock over solid?

 

[Jeriho]

For every day use defenitly. In my opinion. Or maybe they would be ok if i wouldnt take all the ruber out. But like i have them it just vibrates to much on idle. And we have plenty of trafic lights in Zurich.

 

[badger5]

Prawny was fileld stock mounts.. I dont recall it being harsh, maybe a different durometer of compound used on his?

 

[Jeriho]

Well i have shore 60 Bill. You can try and youll see after the cat worms up and revs drop it becomes annoying. While driving its ok but if you are sitting in traffic a lot or in front of traffic lights it becomes unpleasant. And its almost a year since i did it so they had plenty of time to settle in. But it might be a different compound i got mine off ebay.

This is the stuff:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polytek-Pol...968485?hash=item3d025288e5:g:iLIAAOSwZjJU4qXW

 

[Roadtrain]

Noise, Vibration, and Harshness.

Thank you.

 

[Roadtrain]

I would do this mod (to solve 3rd crunching problem on high revs) but I don't think I'm able do it, so exist something similar just made? Thank you.

 

[badger5]

dont see how mounts will effect a weak synchro fella..

 

[Roadtrain]

dont see how mounts will effect a weak synchro fella..

Do you think must to be synchro fault about crunch 2nd-->3rd changing gear fast on high revs? But waiting a bit on 7000 RPM I put 3rd with no crunch (on 4000/4500 RPM), so if it was synchro souldn't make crunch aswell? Thank you.

 

[superkarl]

Do you think must to be synchro fault about crunch 2nd-->3rd changing gear fast on high revs? But waiting a bit on 7000 RPM I put 3rd with no crunch (on 4000/4500 RPM), so if it was synchro souldn't make crunch aswell? Thank you.

Synchromesh gearboxes do not like fast high rpm gear changes, it's a downside to their design. They're typically fine at low revs. But with wear, will become tricky to engage.

Engine mounts CAN improve gear changes and the feel of engagement, but they will not mask a synchro issue, nor make a synchro box want to be slammed at 7k+ rpm. Ask me how I know.

Options:
be sympathetic.
Replace worm synchros,
upgrade mounts.
Fit a dog engagement box.

 

[Roadtrain]

Synchromesh gearboxes do not like fast high rpm gear changes, it's a downside to their design. They're typically fine at low revs. But with wear, will become tricky to engage.

Engine mounts CAN improve gear changes and the feel of engagement, but they will not mask a synchro issue, nor make a synchro box want to be slammed at 7k+ rpm. Ask me how I know.

I made a mistake probably: advance that undisputed engine mounts can't masks any synchro issues nor make more slammed efficiency, I made 7000 RPM example as extreme instance. So, for another example, driving a bit "happy" then normal drive, 2nd-->3rd crunch on 3000 aswell, but not chianging gear after a bit of time (sorry I'm not able to explain better, I hope you understand anyway).

Options:
be sympathetic.
Replace worm synchros,
upgrade mounts.
Fit a dog engagement box.

I'll put number 8 sure (yellow version), but I'm very hesitant about put number 10 aswell, because I don't now if it needs press machine or it's easy changable as number 8 as, and I don't know about vibrations, because some people talk about a lot of them just adopting yellow one only (vibrations diseaooeared gradually during sometimes anywaym but I don't about n. 10 purple aswell). In addition I don't understand if numbers 24 (two pieces) are about engine too or not. What's your opinion? Thank you very much.

 

[superkarl]

I made a mistake probably: advance that undisputed engine mounts can't masks any synchro issues nor make more slammed efficiency, I made 7000 RPM example as extreme instance. So, for another example, driving a bit "happy" then normal drive, 2nd-->3rd crunch on 3000 aswell, but not chianging gear after a bit of time (sorry I'm not able to explain better, I hope you understand anyway).


I'll put number 8 sure (yellow version), but I'm very hesitant about put number 10 aswell, because I don't now if it needs press machine or it's easy changable as number 8 as, and I don't know about vibrations, because some people talk about a lot of them just adopting yellow one only (vibrations diseaooeared gradually during sometimes anywaym but I don't about n. 10 purple aswell). In addition I don't understand if numbers 24 (two pieces) are about engine too or not. What's your opinion? Thank you very much.

I would/did change 10 for purple and 8 with a red. Both very easy to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[IPG]

24 are for the sub frame. The only ones really touching the engine are 8 & 10.

 

[Roadtrain]

I would/did change 10 for purple and 8 with a red. Both very easy to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thank you. About n.8 red or yellow, I'm very hesitant: does your ride has 2nd-->3rd crunch changing fast? And about n. 10, aren't you worry about it'll could be make any vibrations aswell? Purple it's a colour means it's firmer then a yellow or red (but not as black version as, that Powerflex doesn't product for this bush anyway).

24 are for the sub frame. The only ones really touching the engine are 8 & 10.

Thank you a lot as always! So I'll get 8 (yellow I think) and 10 only. Tell me your opinion abiut yellow Vs red, please, and what your ride are mounting right now? Thank's.