Help needed !! EPB - do I need a new calliper ?

Rob, this is probably a bit "locking the gate after the horse has bolted", but there is a painless and VCDS-free way of changing rear pads without putting yourself through all this grief. This method first appeared in the A5OC forum a little while ago. Here's the link: http://www.a5oc.com/forums/a5-s5-topics/23988-rear-brake-job-without.html
I hope this is useful.
 
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DJAlix said:
Not fixable then?
Click to expand...

I think for quickness I'll replace it then later on buy a seal service kit and repair it thoroughly - difficult to manage the school runs when down to one car so hope to be back up and running tomorrow with any luck.
 
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JulianW said:
Rob, this is probably a bit "locking the gate after the horse has bolted", but there is a painless and VCDS-free way of changing rear pads without putting yourself through all this grief. This method first appeared in the A5OC forum a little while ago. Here's the link: http://www.a5oc.com/forums/a5-s5-topics/23988-rear-brake-job-without.html
I hope this is useful.
Click to expand...

This approach is not advisable as it can blow the EPB module from what I've been told.

VCDS or a similar tool should always be used.
 
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davc said:
This approach is not advisable as it can blow the EPB module from what I've been told.

VCDS or a similar tool should always be used.
Click to expand...

Blow an ECU?!

Like an error code only resetable by Audi??
 
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Not entirely sure how one would go about blowing the EPB module, as the EPB motor is physically out of the circuit and the car is switched off for the procedure described. Unless there is some kind of pad thickness calibration going on with the 8V A3/S3, which definitely would require VCDS intervention. However, I note that no such calibration is required for A4/S4, A5/S5, A6 or Q5 - all the models where this method has been used with success.
 
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The EPB module not the ECU mate. It has happened before using the method described although it is not known if the wiring was disconnected from the motor itself. I'll ask my mate as it was a guy he knows who blew the module (he didn't have a diagnostic tool when doing the job).

You're right, think it's only the A8 that has the pad thickness calibration.
 
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10 quid says the wiring was still connected.
As far as I'm aware (and, to be frank, that's a pretty limited awareness, so happy to be corrected), the whole EPB system is an isolated circuit that simply applies and releases the brake, and the module itself is little more than an actuator for the EPB motor. So, no risk of the process doing anything to the ECU, S3 - the two components simply don't talk to each other.
That said, running voltage through the EPB module while messing about with the motor would be a sure-fire way to fry the poor little ******.
 
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New caliper fitted just need to bleed it now ....
IMG 1287
 
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So curiosity got the better of me ... what did I do wrong ?? Only way to find out .... do the other side which I did in half hour. This time I put the battery charger on and left the laptop connected, what the issue was though is winding the caliper in enough whilst in 'friction pad replacement mode'.

With my EBC pads I needed the caliper to be open by 55mm. I wound the caliper back in using 1 in the pic below (turn clockwise for both LH and RH calipers) but that only made the gap 50mm which is where I was last time when I stupidly cycled the VCDS lining change mode. What was needed was a couple of turns on 2 below in order to push the piston in the extra 5mm. Once you know the little ins and outs it's a straight forward job really ......

IMG 1291


By the way you need a T45 torx to remove the rear calipers. Torque is 35Nm.
 
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By the way really impressed with the Yellowstuff pads LoL !!
 
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Glad you're sorted now Rob.

Cheers for the tips on where you went wrong:sunglasses:
 
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Rob2k68 said:
So curiosity got the better of me ... what did I do wrong ?? Only way to find out .... do the other side which I did in half hour. This time I put the battery charger on and left the laptop connected, what the issue was though is winding the caliper in enough whilst in 'friction pad replacement mode'.

With my EBC pads I needed the caliper to be open by 55mm. I wound the caliper back in using 1 in the pic below (turn clockwise for both LH and RH calipers) but that only made the gap 50mm which is where I was last time when I stupidly cycled the VCDS lining change mode. What was needed was a couple of turns on 2 below in order to push the piston in the extra 5mm. Once you know the little ins and outs it's a straight forward job really ......

View attachment 107431

By the way you need a T45 torx to remove the rear calipers. Torque is 35Nm.
Click to expand...
Buy yourself a pint or two you deserve it......:yum:
proper-job-old-market-house-brixham-devon.jpg
 
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Glad it's all sorted, Rob. A pint or two is well-earned! And all this will definitely go in my tips and tricks file for future reference.
 
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This is an old thread, but I have exact same problem. Once the new caliper is installed with fully retracted piston and EBP, what has to be done in VCDS/OBD11 to get the system back to normal and in sync. Right now, my other caliper is engaged and the system is not letting me do much because of the error codes. Is the manual workaround needed here? thx
 
I have exactly same problem.
But it can be fixable. I have somewhat fixed on 80%
I removed right caliper and then I pressed parking button which I shouldn't do. But if u using vcds you need to work on both sides as lining must be done with both. You can't operate with one side only ..
So I pressed parking btn and motor was going and going and piston nearly fell off was wobbling I tried to reverse with vcds start lining but system said out of range. I then wind piston back fully but when I pressed parking button it was motor running forever it didn't fix. Then I realised I needed to fo other side to make it simultaneously .. I kinda fixed but then I couldn't wind piston all the way up which I worked on. So I put old pads in because they are thinner so caliper fit but I don't touch now parking brake button .. When i did start lining it finished successfully but when I did end lining process the right (driver side) failed so didn't finish it. But I was able to release parking brake so left it ..
I think it needs to remove piston completely clean it and check what is behind piston .. Maybe something blocking probably gasket is out not in groove which might block wind piston fully back
I found video which might be same mechanism on A3 8V

 
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