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NoSo does this aerial adaptor allow for both the fakra and coax aerial connections to be fitted?
NoSo does this aerial adaptor allow for both the fakra and coax aerial connections to be fitted?
Hi dieleco - I picked one of these up and tried wiring it today. I connected it up and it powers up but then powers down with a few seconds. I measured the voltage on the wire before connecting it and it was >12V with the engine on, but when the CLOC is connected it drops to around 10.5V - not sure if this is what is causing it not work (i'm relying on the signal sense function as I only have one spare 12V from the HU). Do you know what voltage yours is reading when it is on?I attach a picture of Cloc+d setup for Xtrons head units.
My car doesn’t have Bose system, but the rears speakers have a preamp like cars with Bose, so the setup for the rears speakers must be the same. I don’t know if Bose system has also a preamp for the fronts speakers, in that case you’d need a second Cloc+d, but I’m not sure how Bose system works.
In my car, because my fronts don’t have a preamp, the head unit is capable enough to feed them at a level so high that can cause distortion. It is not necessary to install an amp for them.
The big issue with cloc+d is the space; there isn’t enough room in the hed unit socket to allocate it.
ok matey i'll try my best to make it readable lol,
right i have FULL BOSE set up in my a4, all i have at the stereo loom going from the quadlock is 4 wires that send signal to the amp for each corner of the car, i had tried the hi lo converters and they never did a thing to make it better. so after a few more days i got onto the ground loop isolators, bought 2 of them, they worked to get rid of the alternator whine but i still had a loud buzz when i put my lights on. so back to the drawing board.
i then spotted this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252307253937?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT on ebay and thought sod it i'll give it a whirl, i wired 4 rca plugs to the amp signal wires going to the amp from the quadlock and cut the speaker cables out of the harness that came with the HU, plugged in the ebay gizmo and what do you know it works, no buzz with the lights on no alternator whine happy days.
so what i have now is the quad core android HU, plus the thing off ebay and that's it, hi lo converters and ground isolators are now in the shed collecting dust.
Replaced my hi/lo converters with the one you bought and they worked a treat and take up way less space.
Hi dieleco - I picked one of these up and tried wiring it today. I connected it up and it powers up but then powers down with a few seconds. I measured the voltage on the wire before connecting it and it was >12V with the engine on, but when the CLOC is connected it drops to around 10.5V - not sure if this is what is causing it not work (i'm relying on the signal sense function as I only have one spare 12V from the HU). Do you know what voltage yours is reading when it is on?
I suspect it's two things.Hi guys, seems like a few people have tried these units and have had success. My audi a3 is non-bose but rear amplified speakers. I have so far tried 5 different units and all of them inhibit low volume rear speakers and almost no bass.
I have the qualock connector in my car. What adapters are you guys using to get the rear speakers and sub to work properly?
I suspect it's two things.
now i know in normal system if the amp is not on no sound will come out but these system seem to defeat all logic and part of me feels the amp is not on if not that then the output signal is either to hi.
- You need to connect the RCA output up (this part I have confirmed with a guy in the US that I am helping but hes still not got aloud rear output)
- The rear amp is not being switched on to boost the output
Funny that and your right the amp is on, I was talking to the US guy about this yesterday and we came to the same conclusion. So if I'm right the rear RCA's are connected and the output to the gains to the rear amp need a boost; so what I recommended is a PAC hi/lo converter which has a gains control on it which you would connect to the rear out speaker wires and then plug in to the rear out RCA's. So basically you would be able to pre-set the volume for the rear signal via the PAC to the same level has the fronts and I think this should work. If you are local to south London I have a set of PAC's we could test the theory on if you like.
Right this has been racking my brains why the none Bose have this issue and it just came back to me from what I have read in the past. Bose systems require a much lower than normal output signal than normal so the RCA/phono must be set for this. So introduce a none Bose system that requires a normal output and you have this issue of low outputs in the rear.
Now clearly not all units have this issue but some do. If you get yourself a PAC hi/lo converter this should fix you're issue in regards to the engine background noise my did the same until I fitted the PAC but have changed this to a different filter system after one of the guys here recommended the RAC filter which is no good for you.
The notice issue seems to only happen on the RAC's but if you get the PAC's you should not have this issue as you will take the feeds of the speaker cables.
If this is a little confusing PM me and I will give you my number to explain.
I would need to see the units loom to see if I can come up with a solution but you might have to Tap the cars loom to get round the problem which thinking about it may not be that hard providing the rear amp is being powered up which in turn may not be an issue if we can find out the wire which turns it on and off.
I put extra pins in to my loom/quadlock so there was no cutting of wires
(Post #116)
I'll do this at some point this week. I pulled it all out and then ended up in the ER today with a dog bite to the face. Maybe by the weekend...Post a picture his you have them hooked up
I'll do this at some point this week. I pulled it all out and then ended up in the ER today with a dog bite to the face. Maybe by the weekend...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
OK I can see this will not work as you are not connected to the rear channel which RCA out puts would give you which would be the loom part of the upper part of the plug. If you dont have RCA then you will need to tap the Audi loom direct or see if there is any way to tap the plug.OK, I've healed and the prescription painkillers have worn off enough for me to go out and try this again. This time I also took pics.
I DO NOT have RCAs coming from my rears so I had to wire up the RCA adapter that came with the stereo. Ironically the instructions from the Pioneer-compatible wiring harness clearly state that if I have the non-Bose system that I just hook up the wires and am good to go. That was NOT the case.
On the SNI-35 I connected the following:
White to green
White w/ stripe to green w/ stripe
Gray to purple
Gray w/ stripe to purple w/ stripe
View attachment 92353
On my RCA adapter I wired the following:
Right + (red) to purple
Right - (black) to purple w/ stripe
Left + (white) to green
Left - (black) to green w/ stripe
View attachment 92354
Again, this produced NOTHING in the rears. I also noticed the SNIinstructions say if you get no sound to connect both brown to ground. I tried that too and got nothing.
Finally, I noticed in the picture a page ago where there are two connected that the right and left channels are reversed. The instructions very clearly state that when you are looking at the RCA jacks with the label up the left jack is the left channel but in that pic it is the red cable with traditionally is the right channel. I tried swapping the RCA channels, like in the picture and still got nothing.
View attachment 92355
Any suggestions are appreciated but it looks like I may need to turn to a pro.
Cheers!
Keith
I have one and that is the CRUX interface that you see in the pics with the four RCAs coming off of it. Ironically the purple and green ones were even color coded for the color of the wires coming off the back of my head unit.You need a plug like this with RCA's coming off it
http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/AshtonTS208/media/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsdi1lll8p.jpeg.html
The hi/lo converter taps the normal speaker rear out cables on the stereo the to the RCA plugs coming out from the plug which connect to the cars loom.
Here's a picture of what needs to be done but you will only need one PAC converter to sort out the rear channel and you don't need to cut the wires just tap in to them with scotch locks.
For me at the time my RCA's out were causing engine noise and the PAC got round that but since then I had changed to a different noise reduction options that sat inline on the RAC's so I did not need the PAC but for none bose you will need one PAC for the rear channel as bose signal is a lot lower than normal RCA outputs.I may be needing a set of these. What l can gather from this picture is your line-ins are just wire feeds from the connector to the PAC then rcas out? Any reason for that?
Just a little update, have now upgraded the software to Android Lollipop 5.1 and installed a Joying DAB+ USB dongle and will be looking to install a 4 port DC powered USB2 hub later next month.
You should only need this for the noise issue.Sounds good mate, let us know how you get on with it all, particularly the 5.1 software.
I'll be getting the following next month, is there anything else I would need for my Bose system? As I don't want any interference or low volume from the rear speakers, I think it was yourself who said that the RCA noise filter replaces the need for a PAC SNI converter.
- Xtrons Android 5.1.1 Head Unit
- RCA Noise Filters/Suppressors Bose
You should only need this for the noise issue.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RCA-Noise...253937?hash=item3abeaf2ab1:g:4R4AAOxyaURTfKM8