Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

[StaceyS3]

There is a solution to your nitrous issue.
Get one of those NOS bottles that's actually a sub box, once the the boss is convinced its just a speaker box, quickly run to the NOS shop and get a gas bottle

Yeah good idea Darren

Wonder if she'll click that there's no head unit or other speakers in there though? Lol

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Dress it up as a water injector tank.

 

[A3-Lee]

Why is she so against nos?

 

[StaceyS3]

Why is she so against nos?

I think it's the way that fast and furious portray it to be that has made her against it, she saw eBay messages before about me enquiring about a used direct port kit and since then has made it clear she doesn't like it.

Stupid thing is that since then I will have potentially put another 300 horses in the car but won't let me have 100 or so from NOS lol

She previously did put her foot down about a big turbo conversion, stripping the car and adding a rollcage

 

[StaceyS3]

Today was my turn to watch the sprogs whilst the Mrs was at work, this gave me some free time to play with some bits in doors but not to do anything to productive outside.

I started by having a closer look at the turbo and fitting the turbine housing. The comp wheel is beautifully machined! Is amazing what can be done on a CNC machine nowadays









Inlet is big enough to fit my key in lol, think I will have to make some adjustments to the DP and lines with this larger comp cover.



I also had a more in depth look at the clutch and got lots of pics for PT as previously enquired.

I chucked it on the scales for good measure to which come in bang on 10kg.



Layer by layer dismantled











Both pieces of kit feel and look very well made and I'm sure will perform as well as they look. Can't wait to get it all fitted and running, think realistically will be spring next year.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Looks like an organic top friction plate and cerametallic lower plate? hopefully you will get it all running before I need a new clutch so I can see what its like LOL

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Hopefully yeah it'll be running but it does keep on getting drawn out longer and longer so who knows....I'm hoping that I'm soon getting to the point of just bolting bits together and reassembling rather than fabrication.

 

[StaceyS3]

Had decided that wasn't happy with the paint job and the bits I had missed on the cage so committed to putting another coat or two over the top as had previously run out of paint.

I went out and bought two twin 400w floodlights aka task lighting to provide some better light in the dark tent as that was why previously had missed bits and not been able to see them



The tedious task of masking then followed....
I wasn't anywhere near as particular as last time, previously had cut the tape around windows etc with a Stanley but this time just threw it on there and was happy belongs was close to the edge



I started off by priming the infill panels for the fuel power area.



Little did I know but the weather man was wrong and after a few coats of primer we had a little down pour and they were brought in

A pic (as I forgot last time) of the second compressor in the corner of the garden which is used to feed the air fed mask.



Right now onto the car spraying

I flattened down and keyed up all of the cage but didn't bother to much with the rest as hadn't intended on throwing paint down on there.

I was a bit better prepared this time with supply's as was told I'd only want a litre of paint last time



I don't usually do "selfies" but here's one of me all suited up with air fed mask and filter belt



Didn't get anymore pics until the end but long and short of it is didn't paint the floor at all until was satisfied with everything else.

I ended up putting another litre down and it all went on a lot better than before and also finish was a lot better I think a lot of this was probably down to a very thorough gun clean and of coarse more experience







The infill panels finished, they did have a few spits of rain interfere with the finish



I sprayed it a fair bit thicker this time and it seems to have payed off, I did get a couple of runs but these were only were was trying very hard to defeat physics spraying the tops of poles and round corners lol

Tomorrow I'll pull both ends of the tent down to get as much light in as possible to double check everything before i return the second compressor.

On another note I completely ****** the brakes on the A3 coming home through back lanes from work in the early hours of the morning. This has now resulted in warped discs when they warm up and a terrible pedal feel due to boiling the fluid.

I did look at upgrading from 288-312's but then come across these for not much more

 

[Prawn]

You are a bad man

Don't stop!

 

[StaceyS3]

You are a bad man

Don't stop!

Haha do try, your pretty relentless yourself with the largest thread in the world

Gutted as missed out on a full miltek for the derv by being a tight ****** as put a best offer in when was only £140 buy it now, also similar story with some injectors

Pretty determined will get the derv to somewhere in the mid 200's

Hoping that now I can finally be happy with the paint I can now push on reassembling the S3

 

[StaceyS3]

Little update

Feel like I've done more on the daily lately than the interesting car

It had got round to her service time and whilst was at it I thought would sort some seized rear bushes for alignment, fit the front brakes and for good measure have a tinker with the exhaust.

Side by side, originals and S3 345mm



Fitted they fill the 17' wheel nicely





The rear lower arms are adjusted by an eccentric bolt and washer that pass through the bush but unluckily for me had seized, the only way was to cut the bolts with a cutting disc and removed the bushes with a holesaw





Last but not least whilst the car was in the air I thought it would be rude not to inspect the contents of a cat



The brakes have really transformed the car and love them! Got so much more confidence in it now, the decat has definitely given it a nice whistle on spool up and when coasting along but don't feel much different other wise.

Enough about the boring derv and onto the more interesting car

I set about riveting and sealing the panels in place on the cell in the rear of the car. I used a fire retardant silicone sealant to be extra sure.







I've got a couple of high strength sprung loaded clasps to fit at a later date to hold the lid down as well as a seal strip around the top.

I'm hoping to eventually swap all lines over to stainless braided AN gear and custom made housings/junctions. I made a billet head coolant flange a while back, now have a direnza alloy rad that am planning to weld AN bungs on so an alloy thermostat housing would complete it nicely so can run custom hoses in and out.

Head flange previously made



I started with a block of ally to which I cut a section off and drilled and tapped a hole in the centre to hold it to turn as not got a 4 jaw chuck here at sainsburys





Forgot to take the pic but had the work the other way round on the bolt which then gave me the face to hold it on in the picture





I will weld a pipe on once know how it needs to go and will Dremel the rear out with a burr to make a smooth transition between the two once welded





I had another long awaited parcel arrive with some more of mine and Simons parts for the S3 and mk1 golf



TBC

 

[StaceyS3]

Parcel contained the long awaited IECVA1 cams and IE dual surge tank for both cars, a BRM flex hone tool for myself and a lithium ion battery for the S3

Cams look like a lovely product and can definitely see the profile is a lot smoother than the OEM cams



Here's a comparison picture with OEM cams that have borrowed from the net, think it's Graham's thread so hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it



The battery is pretty unbelievable how light it is! It only weighs just over a kg and is potentially more powerful than the original lead acid battery that was on the car.
The battery although only stated at 21ah's uses the power in a different way to a conventional battery as that you can actually use nearly all the charge in the battery due to the output voltage not dropping the lower the charge like a conventional battery.
It is suggested that you only use the top 30% of the charge of a conventional battery and that renders a lithium battery 3-4 times more efficient thus needing a lower ah rated battery.
Following this concept I could of possibly got away with the 12/15ah models but personally didn't want to risk it.



The battery also has a built in processor that prevents you discharging the battery to much to damage it but leaves enough charge in reserve to start the engine. The processor can discriminate against a slow constant discharge compared to the effort of trying to start the motor with a sudden large draw in current so always will leave this in reserve for you.

Specs of battery



Surge tank same as the single is a lovely piece of kit



I used 4mm tri-rated cable as is only going to be inches from the battery haven't got to worry about volt drop





It will probably be mounted in a position not to different to this as will be brilliant to pick up straight off of the in tank pump and can slip the -6an hoses will be using through the OEM fuel line locations (I hope lol)





TBC

 

[StaceyS3]

Following reading a couple of other people having issues with rings not reseating after pulling a motor apart and rebuilding I decided to buy a flex hone to deglaze the bores (although in reality was hardly bed in just wanted to be sure)

I set about pulling it apart again. God bless ARP's





After a quick hone



Pistons back in and left at half stroke for plenty of clearance to valves





ARP crank bolt....****** hell that has to be done up tight! I thought the OEM stretch bolt was bad but this iirc is 105nm plus 1/4 turn. Trusty home made crank holding tool come out



Had to put the holding tool between my legs and under the anchored bench to get the desired torque





Now onto fitting the head. I had ordered a thicker head gasket than the usual N/A one I ran last time to help with the comp ratio. The OEM BAM one is 1.6mm thick but bore is only up to 82.5, N/A is 1.1mm thick and can take 83mm pistons, the IE one feels like a modified OEM as can feel a slight burr like bore size has somehow been machined to allow 83mm pistons with standard 1.6mm thickness.

Pic of all three, Top is IE, middle OEM BAM and bottom is the N/A (can't remember what from)



In same order







TBC

 

[StaceyS3]

Now the head is installed (sorry lack of pic) I started building up the camshafts. I found an old tapered sleeve had made to aid fitting the seals







Timed up as per OEM although one of the cams the machined groove didn't protrude through to the other side of the sprocket so marked it this side myself with a sharpie to make it easier to time up. Pic shows groove from sprocket side





The engine how it now stands







I also briefly tried trial fitting the turbo and due to the bigger comp cover will have to modify the oil drain and downpipe as the turbo has to be turned on the v band.



Comp cover is extremely close to waste gate pipe but does clear





Due to comp position I'm now swapping cam cover studs to stainless bolts



That's all for now

 

[<tuffty/>]

Hope those cams work for you mate... only car I have seen with them was pretty disappointing to say the least

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Hope those cams work for you mate... only car I have seen with them was pretty disappointing to say the least

<tuffty/>

Oh that's not good! Seem to be a lot running them in the US but not so many in the UK.

There was a few examples of a very 'simular' grind to their 1st revision cams in the UK but not sure how n how they faired up? Only one I personally knew of is Brad and isn't running yet.

Can you remember what the issue was with it?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Literally no power or torque until spooled... There were other issues with the car in fairness but the cams acted like very hot NA cams and went from nothing to everything then didn't last long...

Like I said the build had issues but based on others I have seen I am not sure the power delivery would be transformed if those issues were sorted...

Bill has done a couple of cars on the street cams I believe with better success

<tuffty/>

 

[Gary_808]

Could I ask a huge favour while yours car is stripped out dash wise,

Could you take a few pics of around the pedal box area and just to the left of it under the centre console area etc?
And just above

Many thanks if you could I've tried looking through your pics

 

[StaceyS3]

Literally no power or torque until spooled... There were other issues with the car in fairness but the cams acted like very hot NA cams and went from nothing to everything then didn't last long...

Like I said the build had issues but based on others I have seen I am not sure the power delivery would be transformed if those issues were sorted...

Bill has done a couple of cars on the street cams I believe with better success

<tuffty/>

Hopefully won't be to bad down the lower end of the spectrum but will have to wait and see. They should certainly help the comp wheel flow up top though

 

[StaceyS3]

Could I ask a huge favour while yours car is stripped out dash wise,

Could you take a few pics of around the pedal box area and just to the left of it under the centre console area etc?
And just above

Many thanks if you could I've tried looking through your pics

Yeah no worries Gary will do it sat while I've hopefully got some time out there.

 

[StaceyS3]

Been playing around with some more bits before I leave for my new job next week.

I know this will probably shake me to bits and may not like it but thought I'd give it a go in aid of experimenting





Here's my old dog bone mount with poly inserts, the front round one has taken a bit of a battering and plan was to just replace that with a pressed in spherical bearing.
I ordered a 38mm Od bearing as bore was this size, after cleaning all the crap out of the ally casting it made the bearing not a tight enough fit for my liking, so have aborted the 38mm bearing idea.



I may return to the idea of using the rubber end of the OEM mount at the subframe and some form off spherical bearing or rose joint at the gearbox end. I may return to using the casting and increasing the bore for a 40mm bearing as was a lot more choice at that size and can get a nice interference fit.

Gary got some pics this afternoon, will throw them all up but most aren't to good quality as lighting wasn't ideal and was limited as had a little helper with me

 

[Gary_808]

Ahaha I'm the same when I have my little one wondering the garage while I'm in there!

Many thanks for the pics they are perfect and confirm my suspicions that unlike mk4 golf's they didn't leave the cable throttle brackets in place

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Make a engine damper fit rather than a solid mount

 

[StaceyS3]

Make a engine damper fit rather than a solid mount

View attachment 73387

Yeah that's a good idea Andrew and had seen that exact pic when was searching about.

Ideally will use the normal rear yellow bush and front end have a more solid fixture.

The mount pictured hasn't cost me anything and done it work time as a bit of an experiment.

Will be using the OEM until cars running and then will fit it as a trial

 

[StaceyS3]

On a non car related matter, I've got a new job again starting tomorrow for a large global pharmaceutical manufacturer called GSK as a technician in the respiratory sector. Will be lots more to learn and newer tech compared to what have been working on Looking forward to learning the ins and outs of how their electromagnetic conveyor and rotary clamp systems work.

On a downside I expect once again will be a large reduction or complete stop with regards to homework and research on car related stuff at work.
But all in all happy to be going back to a faster paced production environment compared to automation. Did have fun playing with this kit and the cranes though



Now off of the boring stuff and onto the car

Now I've got all my bits for the fuel and power cell area I started on fabricating the mounts etc.



I found some nice heavy duty rubber mounts to hopefully isolate any noise from the pumps. They should be more than strong enough as we mount 10kg compressors on them at work



I've got myself a 3 quart wmi tank now due to height restrictions, this then meant unless I bent the lines round I would have to rotate the pump as inlet was on the wrong side.



I very quickly slapped some hammerite paint on to stop it rusting. It was literally slapped on as not fussed about cosmetics inside here and I had a sausage sandwich waiting indoors lol



A few pics of how its at now







I've used the seat belt anchor as an earth and have got to put some other wiring relays etc in there yet but besides that it's getting there

I'm planning on using this relay at the mo as is a freeby had lying around from either the derv golf or stuff have removed from here. Only downside I can see at the mo is that I've got nothing to mount it with bar cable ties? I will pick the feed up off of the original pump to turn the relay on and then just run the pumps with positive fused from the battery.





May be a little while before get some time on the car as believe I'm on mon-fri for the first few weeks on the new role.

 

[badger5]

fit locking tabs to the tial (type) hotside bolts.. else they WILL back out and damage chra/turbine

the bolts will come out without external locking. drill/wirelock them or equivalent

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers Bill

Have already got a couple of ideas in mind including making my own simular to tial/Owens ones with some shim I have at home or have been looking at pre-drilled lockwire bolts off of eBay.
Did try nordlocks as am a great fan of these but there's not enough room.

You know of any possible off the shelf solutions that could save time?

I'm hoping that being M8 unlike tials little M6's should help it a reasonable amount

 

[badger5]

bought some of these sort of things the other week
http://www.moto-performance.co.uk/maintenance/tools/safety-lockwire-tab-washers/

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers bill will get some ordered

You ever had issues on other housings with them backing out? I know is extremely common on the Tial v band.

On another note my lightweight heater has shown up saw it on FB on a bloke called Dan's page and certainly swayed me to keep a heater as had committed to ripping mine out.

It looks like a very well made product and is very light and compact.







Have also purchased their lovely billet -10An - 1/2 barb fittings to convert over from my AN lines.

I stupidly had assumed the speed controller/dial and ducting was included :facepalm: so am going to be ordering relevant bits shortly

 

[Prawn]

Ooooooh, youve ordered exactly the same heater I want! 2x adjustable cabin vents and 2x screen outlets.

I plan to mount it on top of the trans tunnel, with a cabin vent facing each side to warm from the footwell up on a cold day. Not yet measured up to see how well it'll fit thought, so interested to see how you do it

Great work as always mate. Must feel good seeing some proper progress now!

 

[badger5]

Cheers bill will get some ordered

You ever had issues on other housings with them backing out? I know is extremely common on the Tial v band.

yes.

Crazily Tial used to supply locking tabs which worked, but since changing to 1/2 moon clamps stopped saying they weren't needed any more.. which of course is'nt the case in reality. Locking tabs prevented bolts backing out and falling out, they worked on retaining the bolts from coming out. Its insane they stopped using them, and when they do fall out, and blame vibrations as the cause.. .. .. Oh really?!?!!?.. Locking tabs were what Stopped them from falling out from vibration!!


Locking tabs, drilled bolt heads and wire locking ftw.. Else bad things happen

 

[StaceyS3]

Ooooooh, youve ordered exactly the same heater I want! 2x adjustable cabin vents and 2x screen outlets.

I plan to mount it on top of the trans tunnel, with a cabin vent facing each side to warm from the footwell up on a cold day. Not yet measured up to see how well it'll fit thought, so interested to see how you do it

Great work as always mate. Must feel good seeing some proper progress now!

Thanks mate, does actually feel like am achieving stuff and making a difference each time I'm out there now with it

Had the same thought process as you with location and function....great minds and all that

Originally was going to use the extra outlet on top for the screen and then two top side outlets for driver and pass air vents leaving the last two lower ones for feet and redundant centre vent for controls, but after speaking to Adam@T7design not sure if will be enough flow to the screen thus ditching all dash vents altogether.

Looking forward to fitting it but am going to order some more accessories yet

 

[StaceyS3]

yes.

Crazily Tial used to supply locking tabs which worked, but since changing to 1/2 moon clamps stopped saying they weren't needed any more.. which of course is'nt the case in reality. Locking tabs prevented bolts backing out and falling out, they worked on retaining the bolts from coming out. Its insane they stopped using them, and when they do fall out, and blame vibrations as the cause.. .. .. Oh really?!?!!?.. Locking tabs were what Stopped them from falling out from vibration!!


Locking tabs, drilled bolt heads and wire locking ftw.. Else bad things happen

Definitely seems like a backwards move from tial and silly not to recognise it and admit it to prevent future failures!

I will be doing what I can to protect my investment, thanks for the link

 

[Prengsi]

Think I will be sticking with the precision lads then! Although don't doubt that each turbo has its flaws in comparison to each other but as I'm stuck with the t3 flange I do like the sound of the gen2 CEA!

I'm sure with a drill and good locking wire techniques you'll be ok!

 

[StaceyS3]

Think I will be sticking with the precision lads then! Although don't doubt that each turbo has its flaws in comparison to each other but as I'm stuck with the t3 flange I do like the sound of the gen2 CEA!

I'm sure with a drill and good locking wire techniques you'll be ok!

Does look like a good idea and they do some very high performing turbos.

Did strongly consider they're 6235 (Garrett gt35 core with 62 comp wheel) as am a bit limited with tial flanged hot side. Did also have my heart set on the 7+7 blade format which seem to be doing now.

Made your mind up which one for the mk1?

 

[g60leigh]

On a non car related matter, I've got a new job again starting tomorrow for a large global pharmaceutical manufacturer called GSK as a technician in the respiratory sector. Will be lots more to learn and newer tech compared to what have been working on Looking forward to learning the ins and outs of how their electromagnetic conveyor and rotary clamp systems work.

On a downside I expect once again will be a large reduction or complete stop with regards to homework and research on car related stuff at work.
But all in all happy to be going back to a faster paced production environment compared to automation. Did have fun playing with this kit and the cranes though



Now off of the boring stuff and onto the car

Now I've got all my bits for the fuel and power cell area I started on fabricating the mounts etc.



I found some nice heavy duty rubber mounts to hopefully isolate any noise from the pumps. They should be more than strong enough as we mount 10kg compressors on them at work



I've got myself a 3 quart wmi tank now due to height restrictions, this then meant unless I bent the lines round I would have to rotate the pump as inlet was on the wrong side.



I very quickly slapped some hammerite paint on to stop it rusting. It was literally slapped on as not fussed about cosmetics inside here and I had a sausage sandwich waiting indoors lol



A few pics of how its at now







I've used the seat belt anchor as an earth and have got to put some other wiring relays etc in there yet but besides that it's getting there

I'm planning on using this relay at the mo as is a freeby had lying around from either the derv golf or stuff have removed from here. Only downside I can see at the mo is that I've got nothing to mount it with bar cable ties? I will pick the feed up off of the original pump to turn the relay on and then just run the pumps with positive fused from the battery.





May be a little while before get some time on the car as believe I'm on mon-fri for the first few weeks on the new role.

How's new job good by then bud.

 

[StaceyS3]

How's new job good by then bud.

Yeah it's going really well thanks. Very different in many aspects, feels strange wearing a hair net, smart clothes with a white lab style coat over the top and not getting dirty at all as am used to crawling under and around dirty machines lol

There's some real interesting and state of the art tech I'm looking forward to learning more about including ultrasonic welders, robots and electromagnetic transportation systems with only 3 sites worldwide using it.

It is very strict on how much can do or change without going through a process of getting it certified and approved, even to changing a failed superseded part with a newer revision requires this. A modification to a machine will take around 4-6 weeks for approval lol. I'm used to just trying things out experimenting and adjusting invertor or PLC parameters/data words where as has to be a lot more thought out and documented now.

All in all a lot to get used to and plenty to learn but think it's probably the best career move so far

Everything picking up for yourself? You on the mend now?

 

[Gary_808]

Does look like a good idea and they do some very high performing turbos.

Did strongly consider they're 6235 (Garrett gt35 core with 62 comp wheel) as am a bit limited with tial flanged hot side. Did also have my heart set on the 7+7 blade format which seem to be doing now.

Made your mind up which one for the mk1?

Precision v band will fit the tial v band flange but not the other way round.

 

[g60leigh]

Yeah it's going really well thanks. Very different in many aspects, feels strange wearing a hair net, smart clothes with a white lab style coat over the top and not getting dirty at all as am used to crawling under and around dirty machines lol

There's some real interesting and state of the art tech I'm looking forward to learning more about including ultrasonic welders, robots and electromagnetic transportation systems with only 3 sites worldwide using it.

It is very strict on how much can do or change without going through a process of getting it certified and approved, even to changing a failed superseded part with a newer revision requires this. A modification to a machine will take around 4-6 weeks for approval lol. I'm used to just trying things out experimenting and adjusting invertor or PLC parameters/data words where as has to be a lot more thought out and documented now.

All in all a lot to get used to and plenty to learn but think it's probably the best career move so far

Everything picking up for yourself? You on the mend now?

Sounds like an excellent job mate. Always a real bonus when there are new skills and techniques to learn.
I've had a bit of a set back so need another couple of operations but will get there. Did pass my class 2 Hgv license yesterday so may pick up a bit of work here and there when my back can handle it lol.

 

[Prengsi]

Precision v band will fit the tial v band flange but not the other way round.

Sounds interesting never knew that but opens up different avenues in future for you Stacey!