My S3

Not a bad price for the bodywork! I need the same done if I'm being fussy.

Dipstick tube......how hard?! Mines snapped just below the inlet grrrrr
 
Its simple mate. undo the 2 screws holing the plastic thing in front of the inlet if that fails smash it like i did. then you will see a metal bracket with 2 allen key bolts holding it onto the inlet and take that off then pull the dipstick tube off mine snapped just at the metal pipe when i pulled it, just a case of sliding the new one on then :)
 
Bennsy got the deflectors off ebay will get the link for you when im on my comp next,

Dont know if there is as ive never seen it before ,Ill be making my own diffuser out of carbon fiber if i ever get around to doing the quad exit :)
 
Since playing with torque on my phone checked for faultstonight and one has come up p0172 and done abit of lookjbg around and seems to be pointing at the maf? It says bank 1 too rich. will clear the code tomoz and test again to see if it comes back.

Going to be getting the stuff to service it aswell, was told when i bought it that it was serviced just before i bought it, dont think they reset the service monitor on the dash so its telling me i need one. so will get it done end of the month then i know ita been done. will do the haldex oil and filter next month once i have some spare cash to get the filter tool
 
Got my service parts priced up and will be getti g them all tomoz so i can get it sorted at the weekend. came in at just under 60 with bosch plugs. would it be worth payi g the extfa and getting some platinum ones? Priced up the haldex stuff aswell but will have to wait till next month. Also is there a way to turn the service indicator off without vagcom?
 
Got all service parts for the car now so just need time and decent weather to get it sorted :)
 
car has now been serviced :D

oil
oil filter
pollen filter
spark plugs

have the fuel filter to do but will do that another time, also reset the service indicator, so all is well now :D lets see if this sorts the dodgy mpg im getting with it, if not it will be getting a smoke test done to see if there are any leaks that are causing it, seems to be alot smoother now its been serviced too :)
 
well its been a yr now that ive had the car :) all has been well and i took it for its MOT a few days ago and it passed with a few advisorys :) been doing a few bits lately too

steering wheel bad had lost its colour so painted it back up cheaper than paying for a new one which is around £20





also started sorting my foggy headlights out too




excuse the state of the bumper, not had chance to get it sorted yet :(



was all done by hand and nearly killed me as ive not got an extension lead long enough to get to my car, so not been able to use my DA to sort it properly. but will be giving the drivers side a go over another time :)
 
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Nice work... I was thinking of doing that to my steering wheel badge... did you just brush it on or mask and spray?

<tuffty/>
 
just brushed it on, would of come out better if i sprayed but would of been too much of a ballache trying to maske the s in the red part.

got a weird boost prob too but aint got a clue, i havent got a propper boost gauge yet so running it on torque and theres like after boost (if you can it that (overrun)??)when i lift off and it peaks at about 22-25psi, what would cause this? only got a forge 008p on there
 
i would love to drive the car to the da but i live in a stupid house in the corner where the parking its about 15/20m away from the window :( and the bumper was like that when i got the car, looks a mess, thinking of just rattle canning it for the time being as this looks a mess ha
 
:: blade :: said:
just brushed it on, would of come out better if i sprayed but would of been too much of a ballache trying to maske the s in the red part.

got a weird boost prob too but aint got a clue, i havent got a propper boost gauge yet so running it on torque and theres like after boost (if you can it that (overrun)??)when i lift off and it peaks at about 22-25psi, what would cause this? only got a forge 008p on there
Click to expand...

Do you get any turbo flutter when you lift off? I.e. Is the DV opening straight away as it should when you come off the throttle? I think I would check the line to the top of the DV
 
nope no turbo flutter altho it is loud on boost and the dv opens straight away too :)

done the other headlight today so looks loads better now :)
 
so no real updates on my car apart from fitting a catch can due to a massive vac leak which was soon sorted,my mpg was still bad and the thermostat was playing up so changed that and my mpg soon changed :D was getting around 60miles to £20 before the catch can and thermostat, after changing i got around 115miles to £20, woke up 2 days ago with the average mpg reading showing 20.8mpg but the night before it was showing 28mpg. now my fuels has gone and need to fill up but only done 48miles and put £20 in on saturday, whats going on? ive scanned it and no faults have come up since changing the thermostat
 
Mine is also bad local i get same as you around 60 miles from 20 pounds of fuel at 115 a litre of v power.
 
Well i think my car is slowly dying. Have the brake warning symbol on my dash but looked at the pads and there is plenty of meat left on them so not sure what wrong also the rear end feels like it is dragging now had a search and it could be the haldex unit on its way out so that will be more expence i cant be having right now as im uber skint :,(
 
Pad sensor faulty - common fault nothing to worry about. Just disable it with vcds.

Take the fuse out of the haldex ecu and try to drive. It is number 38. If you feel changes then yes it might be a haldex unit
 
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Tried disabling it and it wont let me :( will just get new discs and pads and a haldex service kit if i get a decent wage
 
Danio said:
Pad sensor faulty - common fault nothing to worry about. Just disable it with vcds.

Take the fuse out of the haldex ecu and try to drive. It is number 38. If you feel changes then yes it might be a haldex unit
Click to expand...

Haldex fuse is 31... disabling pad wear in VCDS is not the best solution IMO... means if you sell the car on and forget about it then the next owner inherits something they may believe works and doesn't...

Simplest way (this is useful for performance pads that don't tend to have pad wear indicators) is to cut the plug off an old pad, strip and twist the wires together, tape up and clip back on to the pad wear loom plug...

<tuffty/>
 
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Sorry my apologise certainly is. Disabling is better then cutting. That will give more to thing if someone find this
 
Is the fuse in the engine bay. Will give it a whirl tomoz. The haldex still kicks in when it should tho. Hope it isnt the haldex tbh
 
Well removed the haldex fuse and took it for a quick spin car moves better but think ive beentakibg the haldex for granted. Car just spins the front wheels without even trying. Is it supposed to be easier pushing the car with the fuse out? Or is it normal to be stiffer? Also when coming upto the lights i can let it coast and will slow me down. I know the haldex works still as i was up some snowy roads the other week and it did spot on
 
Test for dragging is low speed full lock and you will feel the rear wheels skip... if removing the fuse 'fixes' this then chances are its the controller that needs replacing...

A haldex oil change can help if its not been done that you know of but its not a given that it will fix the issue...

If it still skips with the fuse removed then its a mechanical issue... this could be the plates fusing together or something up with the haldex unit in general...

Faults like this don't normally prevent haldex from working just prevents it from disengaging fully...

<tuffty/>
 
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Ok thats great will test again later. Upto now ive not noticed any skipping of the rear wheels.

Also checked the air flow and its read 175.5g/s is that fine? As far as im aware the car is standard
 
airflow for std cars is a around 180gs... 175gs is in the ball park but check fuel trims on block 032 as this should elude to if you have an airleak somewhere

<tuffty/>
 
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not much to report, not had any money to do much to it :( needed to get the brakes sorted as the brake pad warning light has been on for a couple of months so got them changed over on sunday, the rear calliper pistons were seized but managed to sort them out :)

in with the new


gave it a wash and took it to get the wheels balenced and get the tracking sorted



while i had the wheels off i noticed the drivers side rear spring has snapped at the bottom so will be on the lookout for a cheap lowering kit now, its all money money money with this car :( should be off to awesome gti this saturday to hopefully prices up a few things and get the ball rolling for them to get sorted aswell :) will keep you all updated.
 
:: blade :: said:
not much to report, not had any money to do much to it :( needed to get the brakes sorted as the brake pad warning light has been on for a couple of months so got them changed over on sunday, the rear calliper pistons were seized but managed to sort them out :)

in with the new


gave it a wash and took it to get the wheels balenced and get the tracking sorted



while i had the wheels off i noticed the drivers side rear spring has snapped at the bottom so will be on the lookout for a cheap lowering kit now, its all money money money with this car :( should be off to awesome gti this saturday to hopefully prices up a few things and get the ball rolling for them to get sorted aswell :) will keep you all updated.
Click to expand...

I have a set of 40 mm springs if your interested, used for a bit then changed to coil-overs...
 
audi upgrades
Not been on here for a while. Just to let you know ive still got my s3. Just rolling upto 202k miles. It now has a badger5 v2.2 tip, ramair induction kit and just had a custom 3" turbo back exhaust fitted. Still need to get the turbo changed as its still screaming but still going strong :D
 

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