MIGGZ's A3 1.8t - The all rounder build thread
- Thread starter MIGGZ
- Start date
Nice one cupcake :thumbsup:
Did anyone get mugged/stabbed/shot while in dirtbin?
That mk1 GTS looks nice, whats everyone looking at in it ?
page 25 belongs to you!!!
thanks creamcake!
no sir no one did but does it count that i shot the whole of dirtbin with wotbox then went to the shooting range and shot some real guns?
people were seeing how original it was
Hey my bru..
Looks like you had lots of fun and glad no mishaps happened.
let me know when you start working on your car, would like to pop around there to you for a visit over a weekend if that would be cool with you.
Joe
Looks like you had lots of fun and glad no mishaps happened.
let me know when you start working on your car, would like to pop around there to you for a visit over a weekend if that would be cool with you.
Joe
PDBoosted
Registered User
MIGGZ!! Long time bud... Your car has come a long way. Congrats on the power dude. thats some next level sh1t right there! DUBrun looks like a blast! Hopefully one day I'll be able to join along for the event. Keep well bud!
Wow!!! You alive dude??? Its been like so many months you been hiding away from the worlds!
Dude dubrun was epic hey!
Thanks bud
PDBoosted
Registered User
Hahaha I am alive indeed... I haven't been on this forum in a while though so I thought I'd drop by and see what all you got up too. I see your been busy too with your business and working other cars instead of on your own, LOL. Dude 223wkw must be savage!
wow over month since iv done any updates on here.......
been busy with my car the last week or so including dropping box 4 times
so i have a valeo smf kit that i was told is the smf replacement and vr6 clutch kit would just bolt on.... well wrong!!
After fitting clutch and and box back and finishing up with the car it started and and as i put clutch in clunking noises!!! did reading and symptons showed and thrust bearing is scew, dropped box and checked and it seemed fine, so put back and noise again, so i drop box again to check pressure plate and re tighten screws and all that saw no issues, put back and noise again!!! so dropped it again! this time i took new clutch plate with old pressure put it all back and boom no more noise!!!! but clutch was slipping like a mofo and pedal felt weird.
So i was at the point of burning this car!!! we checked that the fork was going to far and touching the ears on the pressure plate but why was it touching!, we took a valeo fly wheel and took a vr6/abf fly and mix and matched 3 kits sachs, luk and valeo. we found the issue, the reses on vr6/abf is 12.4mm and valeo is 11.3mm so if we skim the valeo fly wheel by 1mm my issues will be sorted and ill be able to use the vr6 kits with no issues! once again i was the test dummy on these kits.
but on that note here is box out and getting cleaned
then decided to take tappet cover, intake and all the boost pipes out. noticed my boost pipes were all cracking and assume it was leaking so took it to dusty to get fixed, but alas the boost pipes cant be fixed, found out that the previous builder that cost me a little package to build them did me in nicely by using 4 different grades of steel even exhaust steel and stainless coated steel so i got lekker shafted on that one, would explain the cracks and the rusting issues, so when i have time ill be making all new boost pipes as well as a 100mm induction to go with my TWEEK performance race filter.
once iv done with the boost pipes ill be eliminating as much of the blue vac lines as i can!
been busy with my car the last week or so including dropping box 4 times
so i have a valeo smf kit that i was told is the smf replacement and vr6 clutch kit would just bolt on.... well wrong!!
After fitting clutch and and box back and finishing up with the car it started and and as i put clutch in clunking noises!!! did reading and symptons showed and thrust bearing is scew, dropped box and checked and it seemed fine, so put back and noise again, so i drop box again to check pressure plate and re tighten screws and all that saw no issues, put back and noise again!!! so dropped it again! this time i took new clutch plate with old pressure put it all back and boom no more noise!!!! but clutch was slipping like a mofo and pedal felt weird.
So i was at the point of burning this car!!! we checked that the fork was going to far and touching the ears on the pressure plate but why was it touching!, we took a valeo fly wheel and took a vr6/abf fly and mix and matched 3 kits sachs, luk and valeo. we found the issue, the reses on vr6/abf is 12.4mm and valeo is 11.3mm so if we skim the valeo fly wheel by 1mm my issues will be sorted and ill be able to use the vr6 kits with no issues! once again i was the test dummy on these kits.
but on that note here is box out and getting cleaned
then decided to take tappet cover, intake and all the boost pipes out. noticed my boost pipes were all cracking and assume it was leaking so took it to dusty to get fixed, but alas the boost pipes cant be fixed, found out that the previous builder that cost me a little package to build them did me in nicely by using 4 different grades of steel even exhaust steel and stainless coated steel so i got lekker shafted on that one, would explain the cracks and the rusting issues, so when i have time ill be making all new boost pipes as well as a 100mm induction to go with my TWEEK performance race filter.
once iv done with the boost pipes ill be eliminating as much of the blue vac lines as i can!
next up was cutting a nice hole in my cradle for future intake
some new shock tower mounts, ball joints and powerflex lca bushes
then fitted a n75 on and off switch awesome idea from the well loved nick aka prawn
then from taking that stupid box out so many times the bracket mount on the box stripped
so got a new 2nd hand one from ernest and foursprung
so far car feels good next up is boost pipes and intake then see if the clutch will handle or ill have to drop box again and do a copper clutch
some new shock tower mounts, ball joints and powerflex lca bushes
then fitted a n75 on and off switch awesome idea from the well loved nick aka prawn
then from taking that stupid box out so many times the bracket mount on the box stripped
so got a new 2nd hand one from ernest and foursprung
so far car feels good next up is boost pipes and intake then see if the clutch will handle or ill have to drop box again and do a copper clutch
Sixty 9 GP
Registered User
Nice updates Miggzy! Alot of hard work here I see...
Ps. Why the On off switch for the N75? what would be the purpose?
Ps. Why the On off switch for the N75? what would be the purpose?
Got the idea from nick, switch off n75 and i run on actuator pressure so ideal for short track where traction is a issue and switch it on when you want to overtake so then full boost. Also the way I see it you run less boost means less stress on all the parts so full out at kyalami with out stress of heating up
So you must be pretty fast at dropping gearboxes these days 
When you feel like burning your beast, just focus on the good times. It works for me.
I also have a n75 switch and thought about flicking the switch at WOT, but a little bit worried about going from 1 bar to 2 bar in a flash.
Scary visions of the turbo taking a KAK.
When you feel like burning your beast, just focus on the good times. It works for me.
I also have a n75 switch and thought about flicking the switch at WOT, but a little bit worried about going from 1 bar to 2 bar in a flash.
Scary visions of the turbo taking a KAK.
Lol yeah iv gotten good lol.
You don't need to worry about that there is about a 5seconds delay on n75 switch lol
You don't need to worry about that there is about a 5seconds delay on n75 switch lol
Yay clutch is slipping again from 3rd on wards so dropping box again Monday.
Taking fly to get the reses to 12.4mm then hopefully the Luk plate is still ok then fitting it with the new Luk pressure plate that i 1st tried to use then hopefully it will be sorted or I'm going to have to go copper clutch fml
Taking fly to get the reses to 12.4mm then hopefully the Luk plate is still ok then fitting it with the new Luk pressure plate that i 1st tried to use then hopefully it will be sorted or I'm going to have to go copper clutch fml
clutch is sorted so far!!!!!! very happy, fly wheel skimmed to a 12.5mm reses did the trick!
finished up at about 12 last night and went driving around pushing the car and 4th gear labor and no slipping and clutch feels good.
i must have a little vac leak or boost leak somewhere so after shooting tonight i might have a look at it or ill do it tomorrow
finished up at about 12 last night and went driving around pushing the car and 4th gear labor and no slipping and clutch feels good.
i must have a little vac leak or boost leak somewhere so after shooting tonight i might have a look at it or ill do it tomorrow
Is that a box off job
lol NOOOOOOOOOOO
its the charge pipe im sure its scew was doos tired last night when i was fitting the final stuff back
Is that a box off job
lol NOOOOOOOOOOO
its the charge pipe im sure its scew was doos tired last night when i was fitting the final stuff back
and it was the charge pipe it was coming off! fixed it last night and today took it for a wash and wheel alignment and saw car is spiking at 1.6 bar and is killing the tyres!!! i normally boost at between 1.4 to 1.45bar but when i pushed last peak recall on the gauge it said 1.6! ill reset it when i get home from work then ill test tonight when i go for a nice long drive and check what im boosting.
hey guys
So wanted a shift light so i wont have to constantly check my rev counter on track days especially the tight stuff.
Did some research and there were to many back and forth stuff saying i either need a special unit to work with tach or i need to splice into my ecu harness or cluster and i was not willing to take the risk incase something pops.
So as i have wotbox i read there was a function on there for a shift light and you can buy a cable for it for X amount of $ then put a led in your dash. but did not like that idea either. So i got the 9 pin cable and started to make my own harness and used a Glowshift 10 series add on external light
this is the plug i used
then all connected up with momentary switch
cleaned off that rubber crap that was on the housing with warm water and a sponge.
drilled and screwed the light in and made a small hole for the cable
and put it all back and set shift light to 2000rpm to see if it works
and boom its done!!! overall took me like a hour and easy to do. Nice and bright and will warn you
So wanted a shift light so i wont have to constantly check my rev counter on track days especially the tight stuff.
Did some research and there were to many back and forth stuff saying i either need a special unit to work with tach or i need to splice into my ecu harness or cluster and i was not willing to take the risk incase something pops.
So as i have wotbox i read there was a function on there for a shift light and you can buy a cable for it for X amount of $ then put a led in your dash. but did not like that idea either. So i got the 9 pin cable and started to make my own harness and used a Glowshift 10 series add on external light
this is the plug i used
then all connected up with momentary switch
cleaned off that rubber crap that was on the housing with warm water and a sponge.
drilled and screwed the light in and made a small hole for the cable
and put it all back and set shift light to 2000rpm to see if it works
and boom its done!!! overall took me like a hour and easy to do. Nice and bright and will warn you
that pic was taken at night with flash its really not as bright as you think, i would want it brighter for day time use, besides how often does one take the car to 6k rpm normal driving?
and thank you for the kind words mate
Quite often
bwahahahahah i normally shift at like 3500 as thats when the intake sounds the nicest, only time my car sees high rpm is a TLGP, traction loss or for videos (which i have not done in a while lol)
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Mine's a simple little box of tricks, 12v and ground connections, and a single splice into the ignition amp feed on mine. very simple indeed.
To set it, you enter a calibration mode, then rev it to half your chosen RPM and release the button. Done.
Car is looking good Migs. Shift light is a cool addition where have you got it set?
To set it, you enter a calibration mode, then rev it to half your chosen RPM and release the button. Done.
Car is looking good Migs. Shift light is a cool addition
where have you got it set?
Mine's a simple little box of tricks, 12v and ground connections, and a single splice into the ignition amp feed on mine. very simple indeed.
To set it, you enter a calibration mode, then rev it to half your chosen RPM and release the button. Done.
Car is looking good Migs. Shift light is a cool addition
ooooo ok yours is easy then what is yours set to rpm wise?
thanks bud
i have not really set it yet dont know where i should yet was thinking 6k rpm, and thank you again lol
Cool, I wasn't get mixed up! Prawns setup sounds easier. November miggz
lol it is easier but thats cos you guys have agu! dont have them amp thingy lol
only november i would die before then
in that time you could paddle to me and clean mine then paddle back if you really bored lol
