Audi a3 2.0tdi EGR VALVE

InvincibleA3

InvincibleA3

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TRied searching on here regarding the EGR valve

I've got the dreaded P0401 - no loss of power etc

ive read threads on the a4 but cdnt find anything on the a3 egr

Does anyone have the part numbers for the seal if there is one on the a3 tdi

Audi have said they have the gaskets but the seal itself is around the EGR valve (£160)

Can you not buy a separate seal like the audi a4 EGR
 
What year is your car? Does it have the CR engine or the PD engine?
 
2005 is the PD engine. Get the engine code from the front of the service book or the sticker in the spare wheel well. It will be BKD or BMN or BMM.

It's likely to be BKD or BMN. If it's BKD then the part is about £65 from Andrew Page and takes about half an hour to fit. (I've done a couple).

Not sure on BMN, can't see it being much different though.
 
SmithyAG said:
2005 is the PD engine. Get the engine code from the front of the service book or the sticker in the spare wheel well. It will be BKD or BMN or BMM.

It's likely to be BKD or BMN. If it's BKD then the part is about £65 from Andrew Page and takes about half an hour to fit. (I've done a couple).

Not sure on BMN, can't see it being much different though.
Click to expand...

Mine is a bkd engine sorry

What part is £65 ? The EGR valve ?

What if I just clean it to check first and just change the gaskets / plates
 
BMN is similar but is an electronically controlled EGR valve instead of vacuum. Shouldn't be too hard to change.
 
Depends what is causing the insufficient flow.

You need to take it off and test it with a handheld vacuum pump really, to see if it's opening and closing.

On the BKD engine it is usually the diaphragm in the valve that goes, so when it pulls a vacuum to open the valve it can't hold that vacuum and the valve doesn't open.

There is a small possibility of it being a problem with the MAF, as the BKD engine uses MAF values to measure the amount of EGR flowing, but it is less likely than a failed valve.
 
or could also be a split/loose vacuum line.

Would need to have a nosey under the bonnet to diagnose properly!
 
SmithyAG said:
or could also be a split/loose vacuum line.

Would need to have a nosey under the bonnet to diagnose properly!
Click to expand...

Looks like il have to now lol :( I have cleared it with scanguage and come back after a day so could be something minor
 
EGR faults aren't serious enough to throw the engine light as soon as they are detected. The EGR fault will usually show after 3 or 4 ignition cycles of the fault being present.

So if you reset it and only make 1 journey a day (unlikely) it will stay off for a few days. If you were to reset it one morning and do numerous trips that day it would be on before the end of the day.

Depending where you are in the country somebody may be able to recommend someone local to you to give you a hand.
 
SmithyAG said:
EGR faults aren't serious enough to throw the engine light as soon as they are detected. The EGR fault will usually show after 3 or 4 ignition cycles of the fault being present.

So if you reset it and only make 1 journey a day (unlikely) it will stay off for a few days. If you were to reset it one morning and do numerous trips that day it would be on before the end of the day.

Depending where you are in the country somebody may be able to recommend someone local to you to give you a hand.
Click to expand...

Not too sure about anyone local to the west West Midlands , seeing the mechanic tomorow to clean it and if anything il order a new EGR
 
Why not jus take the opportunity to egr delete and map it out to prevent similar issues in future?
 
Sayam said:
Why not jus take the opportunity to egr delete and map it out to prevent similar issues in future?
Click to expand...

How much am I looking at for the EGR delete/map ?

Has anyone experienced any problems after the delete ?
 
So after cleaning the manifold and EGR , it's back on and even after reset

Can anyone suggest what I should do

Check MAF
Reducer plate as on the VAG
EGR delete and remap , would this be safe as mileage at 112k ? And can anybody reccomend a specialist for remap local to the midlands
 
Check the MAF, try disconnecting the electrical plug on the top & drive it like that for a few miles, if the car drives better it usually means it's goosed!
 
SmithyAG said:
Depends what is causing the insufficient flow.

You need to take it off and test it with a handheld vacuum pump really, to see if it's opening and closing.

On the BKD engine it is usually the diaphragm in the valve that goes, so when it pulls a vacuum to open the valve it can't hold that vacuum and the valve doesn't open.

There is a small possibility of it being a problem with the MAF, as the BKD engine uses MAF values to measure the amount of EGR flowing, but it is less likely than a failed valve.
Click to expand...

I've cleaned the EGR and manifold but fault still came again , no loss of power however did notice a lot better idle for a day then gradually dissapered.

I've got blanking plates which il fit tomorow , shall I clean the EGR out again even though it's been a week and get a new MAF and fit the blanking plates

Or just fit the plates ? Wish there was someone who knew about the audis in my area , even my mechanic don't know what blankin plates are lol but then understood when I explained
 
Fitting the plates without a remap to take it into account will keep the EML light coming on.

You need to remove the EGR valve and test it with a vac pump to be honest. Or if you are going to map it out then don't bother testing it.

I wouldn't bother cleaning it out again after only a week!
 
SmithyAG said:
Fitting the plates without a remap to take it into account will keep the EML light coming on.

You need to remove the EGR valve and test it with a vac pump to be honest. Or if you are going to map it out then don't bother testing it.

I wouldn't bother cleaning it out again after only a week!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice mate, do you think i should fit the blanking plates first as I won't be going for a remap till end of July and see what happens or blank and remap at the same time when I'm ready for a remap

my mileage is also at 113k am I sensible to remap at this ?
 
I can't see blanking now doing any harm to be honest.

A remap puts a bit extra strain on things, mainly turbo and clutch. I had one done at 110k and the turbo didn't last much longer but was probably on the way out anyway. Clutch was fine.

A remap will generally just bring things forward that are tired anyway. As long as the car has been serviced/maintained properly theres no reason not to as long as you bear in mind the above.
 
I'm also having EGR issues - I think! No power at all below 1500rpm and shaking on tickover. I have a 140 BKD engine also.

I tried sucking on the EGR valve until I went purple lol! but it didnt move does it have to be a very strong vacuum to move the EGR?!

It has been cleaned recently but I can be 100% that the valve is free. The other thing I suspected was that the IMF was faulty but fuse 8 has not blown - strange?

Would be interested to hear how the remap goes, thinking this could be on the cards for me once I get it running right!
 
EGR issues shouldn't cause loss of power, unless it was stuck open to be honest.

You won't be able to get enough suction by sucking on it, you will need a handheld vac pump!

A faulty IMF normally shows up as a rough shut off of the engine, should not cause running issues or power loss.
 
EGR issues shouldn't cause loss of power, unless it was stuck open to be honest.

You won't be able to get enough suction by sucking on it, you will need a handheld vac pump!

A faulty IMF normally shows up as a rough shut off of the engine, should not cause running issues or power loss.
 
SmithyAG said:
I can't see blanking now doing any harm to be honest.

A remap puts a bit extra strain on things, mainly turbo and clutch. I had one done at 110k and the turbo didn't last much longer but was probably on the way out anyway. Clutch was fine.

A remap will generally just bring things forward that are tired anyway. As long as the car has been serviced/maintained properly theres no reason not to as long as you bear in mind the above.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice , il blank it first and see how it does progress and then a remap , and touch wood that the turbo and clutch live up to the remap
 
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